590 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. { December 29, uai 
or their attention to the already prominent buds of fruit trees, espe¬ 
cially Plums and the Gooseberry bushes, may prove destructive of 
next year’s crop. Shooting them is the only sure remedy. Goose¬ 
berries and Currants are often neglected in pruning at this season 
on account of the depredations of these birds, the work being delayed 
until a period when the pressure of other matters is considered of 
more importance, which is not favourable to the production of fine 
fruit. In pruning Gooseberries it must be remembered the fruit is 
borne on the young wood of the present year’s growth and on spurs 
where the young wood has been shortened-in. The bushes, therefore, 
should have the young shoots moderately thinned, spurring in the 
side shoots on the main branches to a couple of eyes, the longer and 
stronger shoots shortened so as to form a symmetrical bush. Varieties 
of pendulous habit should be encouraged upwards by keeping a clear 
stem and shortening the points of the lower shoots. Black Currants 
bear on the young wood, and being erect in growth, only require 
thinning, removing old growths and encouraging young shoots from 
near the base or as low as possible, shortening the upper shoots as 
required. Red and White Currants do best when spurred-in to the 
main branches, which should not be more numerous than to form a 
symmetrical bush with the centre open. When pruned and the 
ground cleared a good dressing of manure may be given, and lightly 
dug or pointed in, except for young trees between which the ground 
is cropped, and may be dug more deeply. Deep digging only in¬ 
duces deep rooting and strong half-ripened shoots which produce 
little fruit. Cut down autumn-fruiting Raspberries close to the 
ground, mulching the stools with decayed manure. The fruit is 
borne on the young growth of the current season, hence the necessitv 
of cutting the canes close so as to direct the energies of the plant to 
produce vigorous growths for the autumn crop. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines.-— The earliest-forced Vines in pots are now well advanced 
for flowering, and should have a night temperature of 70°, falling to 
G5° in the morning, or during very severe weather to 60°, keeping the 
heat at 70° to 75° by day, with a rise of 5° to 10° from sun heat, 
moderately ventilating on favourable occasions, keeping up moderate 
moisture by damping available surfaces in the morning and early 
afternoon, and this with the moisture arising from fermenting mate¬ 
rials will afford ample moisture in bright weather, that from the 
fermenting materials being sufficient in dull weather. Allow a fair 
extension of lateral growth, but do not allow more to be formed than 
are to remain, as a severe reduction of foliage gives a check disastrous 
to the swelling of Grapes and their finishing well. Keep the roots 
well supplied with tepid liquid manure, and the heat steady about 
the pots at 75° to 80°. Early-started Vines planted out have com¬ 
menced growth, and the temperature should be maintained at 60° to 
65° at night and 70° to 75° by day, with a few degrees advance from 
sun heat, ventilating carefully above 75°. Disbud as soon as the 
best breaks are distinguishable ; and although it is advisable to leave 
more growths than will be allowed to carry bunches, no more shoots 
should be encouraged than when fully developed will have space for 
full exposure to light and air. Do not be in a hurry in stopping, 
allowing the shoots to make two or three leaves beyond the bunches 
before taking out their points. 
Syringing must be practised in the morning and early afternoon of 
fine days, turning over a portion of the fermenting materials every 
morning, renovating with a little fresh stable litter as may be neces¬ 
sary, or keep the evaporation troughs regularly charged with liquid 
manure—guano water at the rate of 1 oz. to the gallon of rain water. 
Cease syringing when the bunches are clear of the foliage. Vines 
started early in the month are breaking freely, and should have the 
temperature gradually raised to 00° at night and 65° to 70° by day, 
with 5° to 10° advance from sun heat. Syringe two or three times 
daily, but only to provide a genial condition of the atmosphere, as an 
excess of moisture induces thin flabby foliage, long-jointed wood, 
and aerial roots from the rods. See that fermenting materials on 
outside borders are not allowed to become cold, but replenish with 
fresh materials as necessary. The Vines intended to afford ripe 
Grapes early in June will need to be started at once. Those that 
have been subjected to the process in previous seasons will start 
readily into growth ; indeed, they are now breaking, but those not 
so treated will need a temperature of 55° artificially day and night, 
advancing to 65° from sun heat, whilst those before alluded to should 
only have 50° at night, 55° by day, and 65° by day from sun heat. 
Syringe the Vines twice, and if the weather be bright three or more 
times a day, allowing them to become dry at night. Young Vines 
will need the rods depressed to insure the buds breaking regularly. 
Push forward the pruning and dressing of Vines from which the 
foliage and crop have been removed, cleansing, and if necessary 
painting the house. 
Late Vines with the Grapes still hanging require the atmosphere 
as dry as possible, maintaining a night temperature of 40° to 45° 
for Black Hamburghs, and ventilating freely by day in favour, 
able weather. Muscats must have a temperature of 50 s and a little 
air admitted constantly, as a close cold atmosphere soon causes the 
berries to spot and decay. 
Cucumbers .—The weather has been very favourable for the growth 
of the winter-fruiting plants, and they are more robust and healthful 
than is the case when the weather is such as to render extra firing 
necessary. Light is a very important element in Cucumber culti¬ 
vation. It is essential, particularly at this season when the days are 
at the shortest,that the glass be kept thoroughly clean both inside 
and outside. In dull weather avoid giving liquid manure freely, as 
it tends to induce flabby unhealthy growth. Be careful not to 
overcrop the plants now, and do not allow the fruits to hang too 
long, as it greatly weakens the plants. The fruit cut will keep fresh 
several days if the neck end be inserted in saucers of water and kept 
in a moderate temperature. If canker is noticed in the old growth 
press quicklime well into the infested parts. Continue the instruc¬ 
tions given in our last calendar in regard to temperature, &c. 
Pines .—If a sufficient number of plants failed to form fruits in 
October or November of such kinds as Black Jamaica, Montserrats, 
Smooth-leaved Cayenne, and Charlotte Rothschild, plants starting 
now into fruit will not be ripe in May and June; and as that is an 
important time to have ripe fruit, efforts must be made to induce 
plants of other kinds that ripen more quickly, such as Queens, 
Enville, and Providence, to start into fruit at once. If a fair pro¬ 
portion of the successional stock has been subjected to a somewhat 
dry and cool treatment a selection from such plants can be made, 
choosing those which have developed an enlarged base with a tendency 
to open in the centre. These should be placed in a light house and 
have a brisk bottom heat of 85° to 90?, the top heat varying from 
00° to 70° at night according to the weather, and 5° more by day and 
10° from sun heat. Maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere 
by sprinkling the plants once or twice weekly and occasionally damp 
the cool surfaces about the house, but avoid steaming by damping 
highly heated hot-water pipes or syringing the surface of the bed 
between the plants. See that the soil at the roots is sufficiently 
moist, employing tepid water with a little guano in it, applying it 
copiously when needed, which in the case of healthy plants will be 
about every ten days, but a weekly examination of the plants should 
always be made. Continue the temperatures as before advised to 
other stock in their several stages. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove .—Although bottom heat as a medium for plunging the pots 
of stove plants in is not so much employed now, there can be no 
doubt that a bed of fermenting materials, such as a bed of tan, is 
highly favourable to the growth of the plants, and causes a consider¬ 
able saving of fuel. A bed of tan will maintain a temperature of at 
least 90° for two months. To render assistance in this way no time 
should be lost in preparing the material, all fresh tan being decidedly 
preferable; but where this is difficult to procure Oak leaves form 
the best substitute, having a good reserve to add as the heat declines 
or the material subsides. 
Clerodendron Balfourianum is one of the most useful decorative 
plants. It flowers quite freely in a young state, the wood being well 
matured, plants in G-inch pots being very useful ; but it should be 
grown in quantity, as successional plants can be had in flower at 
almost any season by plants in different stages of growth. To rest 
the plants they must be kept dry at the roots, even so as to cause the 
