July 3, 18S4. ] 
17 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
clear their couise of rotation). Mr. Ball’s essay was a very practical paper, hut 
he introduced rather too many subjects, and went more on the principle of 
planting a new garden than the rotation of crops in an already planted 
garden. He had a small plan of a garden to show his mode of operations. 
Both papers were very creditable to the young men, and the unanimous 
vote of the members present, whose duty it was to decide, went as already 
indicated. Mr. Beilis of Newstead Abbey Gardena was in the chair, and 
spoke on the importance of the closer study by young gardeners of the 
management of the kitchen garden. 
On the 23rd June the ordinary monthly meeting was held in the 
Society’s room at the Mechanics’ Institution. Mr. George Fellowes, J.P., 
of Beeston Fields, presided. There was a large attendance of members, 
and a few of them, notably the Messrs. Pearson and Mr. Meadows, brought 
some very interesting specimens of cut flowers, and Mr. Meadows a well- 
flowered specimen of Odontoglossum vexillarium. The prizes and certifi¬ 
cates won on June 11th were presented by the Chairman with a few 
hearty words of encouragement addressed to each recipient. Mr. J. J. 
Ogle, of the Nottingham Naturalists’ Society, then gave an address on 
“ Fertilisation, and How it is Helped by Insects.” The address was a 
model one, being short, with much matter compressed into the fewest 
words ; those words the simplest and clearest, and spoken with that 
attractiveness as to catch the attention of the hearers and keep it from first 
to last. The address was illustrated by diagrams, showing in magnified 
form the parts of flowers which are concerned in the work of reproduction. 
It was decided on all hands that it was the most interesting address that 
had been delivered before the Society. 
There is a desire on the part of the officers of the Notts Horticultural 
and Botanical Society to fraternise with the Naturalists’ Society, and as 
the officers of the Naturalists’ Society are likewise wdlling, this is only the 
beginning of what may result in many useful evenings to the advantage of 
the members of both Societies. It is quite clear that the one can help the 
other largely.—N. H. Pownall. 
COMING FLOWER SHOWS. 
Exhibitions are as numerous as ever, the following being those for 
July, August, and September, of which we have received any notification 
at present;— 
July 8rd.—Bury St. Edmunds. Winchester (two days). Bath (Roses). 
Chiswick. Farnhani (Hoses). 
„ 4th.—Sutton (Roses). Tunbridge Wells. 
„ 6th.—Crystal Palace (Roses). 
„ 7th.—Brockham (Roses). 
„ 8th.—Royal Horticultural Society, Fruit and Floral Committees ; 
Promenade Show. Evesham (Roses). 
„ 9th.—Edinburgh (two days). Salisbury (Roses). Lee (two days). 
Carrington (two days). 
„ 10th.—Oxford (Roses). 
14th.—Wolverhampton (three days). 
„ 16th.—Bedford. 
„ 17th.—Carlisle (two days). Wirksworth (Roses). Newport. 
„ 19th.—Manchester (Roses). 
„ 22nd.—Royal Horticultural Society, Fruit and Floral Committees; 
Fruit and Vegetable Show ; Carnation and Picotee Show. 
„ 2Srd.—Newcastle-on-Tyne (three days). Feltham. 
„ 24th.—Sheffield (two days). 
,, 80th.—Warwick. 
August 2nd.—Liverpool (two days). Southampton (two days). 
„ 12th.—Royal Horticultural Society, Fruit and Floral Committees; 
Cottagers’ Show. 
, 14th.—Maidenhead. 
„ 20th.—Shrewsbury (two days). 
„ 21st.—Reading. 
,, 26th.—Royal Horticultural Society, Fruit and Floral Committees; 
Fruit and Vegetable Show. Banbury. 
September 2nd.—Stratford-on-Avon (two days). 
„ 3rd.—Glasgow. Bath (two days). 
„ 5th.—Crystal Palace Fruit and Dahlias (two days). 
„ 9th.—Royal Horticultural Society, Fruit and Floral Committees. 
„ 11th.—Bury St. Edmunds (two days). Dundee International (three 
days). 
„ 17th.—Edinburgh (two days). 
„ 25rd.—Roval Horticultural Society, Fruit and Floral Committees; 
Fruit and Vegetable Show. 
WOKK.foiitheWEEK.. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
All vegetables are now coming in freely, and the kitchen can easilyjbe 
supplied. Still, it is well to look forward and see that no defects are 
likely to occur, as a full and constant supply will alone give satisfaction, 
and it should be the object of all to secure this as far as their means will 
allow. 
Kidney Beans .—The last sowing of these should be made. As a 
dwarf variety sow Canadian Wonder, and the runner may be Carter’s 
Champion. Sow both in good soil on a south border, where they will be 
fully exposed to the sun and be benefited by shelter late in autumn. Kidney 
Beans, when they are to be had very late in autumn, are always much 
valued, and it is well worth anyone’s while trying to have a quantity of 
them. Stake runners requiring support, and if it is desired to have them 
in fruit as soon as possible take the point from each stem as soon as a 
number of flower clusters are formed. Dwarf Beans now bearing heavily 
may show signs of falling to one side, and if they do this many of the 
plants wilt be spoiled and ch;cked, but a few short twigs of birch put in 
along each side of the row will prevent this. 
Celery .—Finish the planting of this important crop for the winter 
supply, and late plants for putting out in August for late spring use, which 
are now in the nursery quarters, must not be allowed to be crowded. 
Give the advanced plants in trenches thorough drenchings of water when 
necessary, and do not let weeds take possession of the surrounding soil. 
Large plants for early autumn use or exhibition now require careful 
earthing up, but on no account allow any of the soil to fall into the 
centres of the plants. In wormy soil a dusting of soot, lime, or salt 
thrown about the plants will be found a great help in warding off the 
attacks of these unwelcome visitors. 
Tomatoes .—In cool houses these are now beautiful to look at and 
exquisite on the table, but the only way to make plants bear from the 
beginning to the end of the season is to crop moderately, feed well, and 
stop and train carefully. As the lower fruits ripen and are cut off let 
the top extend and more form. Never encourage the production of 
superfluous growths. Thin off deformed fruits when quite small, and only 
allow the best to develope. Plants out of doors are now growing rapidly, 
and they require going over twice weekly to stop and train the shoots, 
but they should have no liquid manure until plenty of fruits are visible. 
Kgg Plants .—Now that frames are empty these may be placed in 
them, and a dozen or two of plants will be found to be a very useful 
addition to the choice vegetable supply. They fruit freely and well in 
8 -inch pots, and, besides liking a rich soil, they also delight in having 
plenty of liquid manure when the roots fill the pots. They are liable 
to be attacked by aphides, and the most important of their require¬ 
ments in summer is to keep them free from these by syringing and 
fumigating. 
Cauliflowers .—Many of these have now been cut, and the ground 
freed from them should at once be filled up with other crops. Do not 
allow any which have flowered and are not required for seed to remain in 
the ground, as they are occupying space and drawing nourishment which 
might be devoted to more promising crops. Finish planting all Cauli¬ 
flowers, and if a good batch of Veiteh’s Autumn Giant is put in at once 
they will furnish many useful heads in November, and early sorts would 
(.ome in before that time. 
Callages and Coleworts .—These may be put out too, as Cabbages 
planted now will give a good supply in late autumn, and the Coleworts 
will be later still. We always plant a good batch of Cabbage at this 
time, and find them so useful that we recommend the system to be 
generally adopted. In small gardens, where most of the vegetables are 
consumed in the dining-room, it may be said that Cabbages are too 
common for use as long as anything else can be had, but where many 
servants have to be supplied daily Cabbages are a most useful vegetable. 
Spinaoh .—The smooth-seeded variety should still be sown once a 
fortnight. Much of the early sowings has flowered and is useless, and 
it should be cleared off at once. Some cut their Spinach with a scythe 
when it runs to flower in the hope that fresh growth will come again, 
but this crop is never half so profitable as the first gatherings from 
seedlings. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Vines. —Early Houses .—See that the inside borders do not become 
dry after the Grapes are cut, and keep the surface mulched, but avoid 
forcing the laterals into vigorous growth by stimulating the roots by an 
excess of moisture after the wood is ripe. Ventilate to the fullest extent, 
and syringe occasionally to keep the foliage free from dust and red 
spider. 
Midseason Houses. — Houses in which the Grapes are beginning to 
colour may now have the ventilators constantly open ; even in the dullest 
weather they should be open a little at the top and bottom so as to secure 
a circulation of air, damping the borders and other available surfaces 
occasionally to prevent the atmosphere becoming too dry, which only 
encourages the spread of red spider and injures the Vines at a time when 
their energies are severely taxed. See that the borders are moist. If 
they have a good soaking of tepid liquid manure when the berries ch.ange 
colour and are mulched it will mostly be sufficient to finish the Grapes 
well, but should the border become dry when the Grapes are advanced in 
ripening water may be given without detriment providing it is done in 
the early part of the day, and the house is freely ventilated ; a fine day 
being selected so as to allow of the superfluous moisture passing off 
before the ventilation is reduced. 
Late Houses .—Late Gra pes should be examined again for the last time 
in thinning, and if there is any probability of the berries being crowded 
the smallest must be removed. Owing to the prolonged drought outside 
borders as well as inside borders will need thorough soakings at least 
fortnightly of water in a tepid state, and mulching the surface with good 
manure will keep the roots active. Vines that are carrying heavy crops 
will need some stimulating food, but it must not be applied in too power¬ 
ful doses, and always in a tepid state. To prevent scalding in Lady 
Downe’s and Muscats a rather warm night temperature with decreased 
atmospheric moisture and abundance of air by day is the best remedy. 
It is not sound economy to discontinue fire heat until the Grapes have 
safely passed the stoning process, when the danger from scalding is over ; 
then fire heat maybe economised by closing early enough to run the 
temperature up to 90“ on fine afternoons. Be careful to admit a little 
