20 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 3, 1884. 
petroleum and suspended over the plants useful. We have also heard that 
Celery watered regularly with a strong decoction of Elder leaves is seldom 
attacked. If any of our readers can state a method which they have found 
effectual in dealing with the pest in question we shall be glad to hear from 
them. 
Double White Abutilon {Mr. Tay?or).—Although we have never seen a 
similar example of proliferousness in the Abutilon before, it is a character 
occasionally developed by many flowers, but not always fixed and per¬ 
petuated. 
Cinerarias Dying {Mrs. Davies). —We cannot understand Cinerarias “ just 
being put in the flowering pots.” It is much too early for the final potting 
of these plants. A quantity of soot and lime in the frame if dry and the 
light closed would certainly be injurious to the plants this hot weather. A. 
thick layer of sharp ashes is much better for excluding worms, and is quite 
safe. Cinerarias cannot be kept too cool in summer. Plants now ready for 
potting off will be forward enough for most purposes, and we have raised 
many that have proved very serviceable by sowing the seed in July. The 
plant enclosed is Santolina incana. 
Small Bunches of Grapes {TI. S.).—Had you stated when you asked 
your question what you have now done after it was answered you would 
have saved us some trouble, and obtained for yourself a more explicit reply. 
If persons took as much care in asking questions as we do in answering them, 
it would be more satisfactory to all. There is no doubt whatever that closely 
pruning the laterals to the weak eyes at the base is the cause of the smaller 
bunches this year, just as the larger ones last season resulted from pruning 
to bold eyes some distance from the main rods. Many Vines bear bunches 
quite large enough when the laterals are closely pruned, and the bunches are 
usually compact, those resulting from long pruning being generally longer 
and looser, not infrequently, indeed, too loose. The precise method of 
pruning to adopt can only be determined by the condition of the Vines and 
the object of the cultivator. 
Red Spider on Vines (IFaJvcicX").—You ask, “ What is a safe and certain 
remedy for destroying red spider on Vines when the berries are colouring ? ” 
We reply. Sponging the leaves well with a mixture of softsoap and sulphur. 
If any of our readers can state a quicker method and equally safe, we will 
gladly publish it. It is a great mistake not to cleanse the foliage from this 
pest before colouring commences, and this can usually be done by heavy 
syringings. We have been growing Vines for a quarter of a century and 
have never had any serious trouble with red spider. 
Vegetable Marrows not Swelling {T. J.). —You neither intimate 
whether the plants are stubborn or luxuriant, thinly trained or overcrowded ; 
therefore all we can say is that by their training and keeping the plants 
growing without receiving any check through insufficient supplies of water 
we never fail to obtain abundance of fruit. You will find an answer to your 
other question given in reply to another correspondent. 
Vines Bleeding {In a Fix). —Surely you are not “in a fix” by your 
Vines bleeding at this period of the year, which would be quite a novel 
event; but the controversy on the subject, instead of affording you satisfac¬ 
tion, has, presumably, caused you mental disquietude. You ask “ What is 
really the cause of Vines bleeding ? ” It is the pores of the canes not being 
sealed before the sap movement is active, and hence this and the water 
imbibed by the roots escapes instead of being devoted to the extension of 
growth and expansion of foliage. Thus it is that Vines which bleed freely 
do not start into growth with the same promptitude that others do from 
which no escape of sap occurs. When Vines bleed we are of opinion that 
either the canes have not matured or pruning has been too long deferred. 
With hard ripe wood pruned early we have never been troubled with any 
serious escape of sap from our Vines. As to whether bleeding is injurious 
or not, you had better grow and fruit two Vines in pots, letting them be of 
similar strength and subjected to similar treatment, pruning one late, so that 
it bleeds excessively, and the other early, so that it does not bleed at all. We 
think you will find a difference, and it may be a rather serious one, not in 
favour of the bleeding Vine. 
Stopping Melons ( G. B). —Your late Melons planted 2 feet asunder wil 
not need topping till they nearly reach the top of the trellis. Provided the 
plants are strong and kept growing freely they will produce fruit-bearing 
laterals almost down to the bed—at least ours do so, and as soon as a fruit 
blossom is seen in the axil of a leaf the point of the shoot is taken out at 
one leaf beyond it, and before that leaf is as large as a sixpence. By fer¬ 
tilising the flowers as they expand we soon have more fruits than is necessary 
for a crop, when a selection is made of a number as equidistant as possible 
and of about equal size, and these seldom fail to swell freely. About four 
fruits are sufficient for a plant with a single stem C feet high ; and if you 
ripen this number on every plant you will have a good house of Melons. 
Layering Roses {Bath Amateur). —The operation is quite simple, and we 
cannot better describe than by citing from Rivers’ “ Rose Amateur’s Guide.” 
“About the middle of July, in most seasons, the shoots will be found about 
18 inches or 2 feet in length; from these, about two-thirds of their length, 
the leaves should be cut off close to the shoot, beginning at the base, with 
a very sharp knife ; the shoot must then be brought to the ground, so as to 
be able to judge in what place the hole must be made to receive it; this may 
be made large enough to hold a quarter of a peck of compost: in heavy and 
retentive soils this should be rotten dung and pit sand in equal quantities, 
well mixed ; the shoot must then be ‘ tongued,’— i.e., the knife introduced 
just below a bud, and brought upwards, so as to cut about half way through; 
this must be done at the side or back of the shoot (not by any means at 
the front or in the bend), so that the tongue does not close ; to make this 
certain a small piece of glass or thin earthenware may be introduced to keep 
it open. Much nicety is required to have the tongue at the upper part of the 
shoot, so as not to be in the part which forms the bow, as it is of consequence 
that it should be within 2 inches of the surface, so as to feel the effects of the 
atmospheric heat; unless this is attended to, the roots will not be emitted 
quickly. The tongued part must be placed in the centre of the compost, and 
a moderate-sized stone put on the surface of the ground to keep the layer in 
its place. The first week in November the layers must be taken from the 
parent plant, and either potted as required, or planted out where they are to 
remain. Those shoots not long enough in July and Augirst may be layered 
in October, when the layers are taken from the stools, and, if any are for¬ 
gotten, February and March will be the most favourable months for the 
operation ; as a general rule, July is the most proper season.” 
The Spikenard {B. L. E.). —You are right. The Spikenard of the 
ancients has now been satisfactorily ascertained, by the researches of Sir 
William Jones and Dr. Royle, to be the produce of Nardostachys jatamansi. 
By the ancients it was held in high estimation, being used at baths and 
feasts as a favourite perfume. Its odour had the reputation of exciting 
amorous desires, and was as highly prized by the Roman women as it is 
by those of Nepaul in the present day. It seems to have obtained a high 
value among the Romans, so much so that the contents of a small box 
made of precious stone was considered an equivalent for a large vessel of 
wine, and a proper contribution for a guest to make to an entertainment, 
according to the ancient custom; and as an evidence of which we have 
the complaint of Judas, when the woman anointed our Saviour’s feet, that 
“ the alabaster box of ointment, very precious, might have been sold for 
three hundred pence and given to the poor.” The smell'of Spikenard, 
according to our taste, is far from agreeable ; and Dr. F. Hamilton thinks 
that the Roman lovers must have had a very different taste from the youth 
of modern Europe. The ikdies of Nepaul consider the smell very agree¬ 
able, and such as can afford it use oil impregnated with this root for 
perfuming their hair. The plant grows in the mountains of Nepaul, in the 
provinces of Mandou and Chitor, in Delhi, Bengal, and Deccan. The root, 
which is from 3 to 12 inches long, fibrous, of a blackish colour, 
sending up above the ground between thirty and forty spikes, from which 
t has its name. 
Striking Show and Fancy Pelargoniums {E. Masters). —Cuttings may 
be put in and struck from March to August; the general time, however, is 
when the plants have done flowering, and require cutting down to make 
bushy plants for the next season. This generally happens from the end of 
June to the beginning of August. They may be very successfully propagated 
in a frame set upon a spent hotbed, first removing the soil, and replacing it 
upon a thick coat of coal ashes to keep out the worms. Upon this coat place 
another of sawdust to plunge the cutting pots in. The best soil is pure loam 
mixed with silver sand. Five inches wide at the top is a proper size for the 
pots, which must be well drained. Fill them to the top with the prepared 
loam, which should be put through a rather coarse sieve to take out the 
stones. It should not be pressed down too hard, but made firm enough to 
hold the cuttings fast. Use it in a state neither wet nor dry. The side 
shoots which have not flowered, and are not more than 2 inches long, make 
the best cuttings. These should be cut off close to the stem. If taken off 
with a sharp knife they will not require to be cut again at the bottom, unless 
the cutting is too long ; then they should have a clean horizontal cut just 
under a joint, to make the cutting the right length. Cut off the bottom 
leaves close to the stem, leaving only two of the uppermost. Place the 
cuttings in a shady place, to dry up the wound. This will take an hour on a 
dry day, or two hours on a dull cloudy one. Then put them in the prepared 
pots, roitnd the edge, inclining the leaves inwards, so that they may not 
touch the leaves of those in the contiguous pots in the frames or in the 
propagating house. When a pot is filled give it a gentle watering, and set it 
on one side to dry up the moisture on the leaves and surface of the soil. Then 
plunge the cuttings in the frame, and shade them from the sun, or even 
from the light, till they form a callosity (a swelling at their base). After 
that, reduce the shade gradually, using it only during bright sunshine. A 
little air may also be given every day by tilting up the lights behind. The 
cuttings must be frequently examined to see if roots are formed; and as 
soon as they are an inch long pot them off into GO-size pots. A small 
addition of well-decomposed leaf mould may be mixed amongst the loam 
with advantage. When potted off give another gentle watering, and replace 
them in the frame; renew the shading, but disuse it as soon as it is safe to 
do so, and then give plenty of air to prevent them being drawn up and 
spindly. To cause them to become bushy plants, nip off the top bud ; the 
lower side buds will then break, and the shoots from them must be again 
stopped as soon as they have made , three leaves. The plants will then be 
ready to receive a second potting, and should be removed into the open air. 
The above directions, as far as the cuttings are concerned, relate only to the 
show varieties, as they are called ; but fancy varieties are more difficult to 
increase by cuttings. Insert the cuttings of these in shallow pans 1 ^ inch 
deep, with a hole in the centre, in the usual loam and sand, placing them on 
a shelf in the propagating house, or in the frame, close to the glass, upon 
inverted pots. Make the cuttings very short, with a portion of the old wood 
at the bottom of each. Very little water is to be given till the callosities 
are formed ; afterwards give it more treely, and when roots make their 
appearance immediately pot off and give the usual treatment. 
American Cowslips (Bodjare). —The seed of these plants should be sown 
as soon as ripe in pots filled with finely sifted peat and sand, and covered as 
lightly as possible, place in a cold frame and keep moist and dark; most of 
the seedlings will appear in about three weeks, and the remainder early in 
the spring. They should be potted-singly in sand and peat or leaf soil with a 
little loam as soon as they can be handled, and when well rooted placed in 
their permanent position. If old seed is sown it will often, like that of 
many other plants, lie for one or even two years before germinating. The 
three best species of Dodecatheon are Meadia, Jeffreyanum, and splendidum ; 
this last is often, though erroneously, called integrifolium. Meadia, light 
purple, often nearly peach, about 1 foot in height; Jeffreyanum, rosy purple, 
to 2 feet high, the most vigorous and accommodating; splendidum, deep 
rosy crimson, about 6 inches. Thei'e are many varieties of Meadia, several 
of which would probably be obtained from a single packet of seed. 
Names of Plants {J. F. B .).—1, Sedum album; 2, Listera ovata. {Sub¬ 
scriber). —1, Cupressus virginiana ; 2, Pinus monophylla ; 3, Larix Ksempferi; 
4, White Rose is a Noisette; 5, Red Rose is a Gallica; 6, Tilia europaea 
laciniata. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— July 2nd. 
Our market is still heavy. Prices all round with little alteration. 
