Jaly 10. 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
25 
nohle Heath Erica Oavendishii, whose flowers it resembles some¬ 
what; and I am sure no one would admire the one without the 
other, givinij precedence, as it well deserves, to the Onosma for 
richness of colour. The reasons why it is so seldom seen are 
obvious. In some soils it is a short-lived plant; it is peculiarly 
impatient of damp, and the following instructions are essential 
in planting. 
In the first place avoid manure. It is deadly to it ultimately; 
not but what it will grow well in rich soils—indeed it grows too 
well, and assumes a vigour which appears to exhaust the root- 
stock, and decay at the collar is the result. Plant it then in a 
mixture of abnut equal parts of sandy loam and peat, to which 
may be added a liberal quantity of coarse silver sand, macadam 
grit, broken bricks or other material that will keep the soil open. 
Choose for it a narrow fissure in the rockery, where it will receive 
a fair depth of soil, allowing plenty of room superficially for free 
development of growth over some projecting ledge of rock. Thus 
placed in a somewhat sunny position it will be happy and at 
home. 
The only real method of increasing the various species of 
Onosma is by cuttings, since they are remarkably shy seeders 
under cultivation, still I am inclined to believe they are different 
in this respect in their native home. Some years ago 1 remember 
writing Mr. Thompson of Ipswich, asking him to supply me with 
some seed of D. taurica. His reoly was to the effect that if I 
waited for seeds he feared it would be many years ere I got it, 
for, so far as he was aware, seeds had never reached this country. 
With ordinary care, however, it is by no means a difficult plant 
to increase by means of cuttings, and all who care for increased 
beauty on the rockery should do their utmost to extend its culti¬ 
vation. The cuttings must be torn off from the stock plant with 
a heel, and never allow that bit of cold steel to be any nearer 
them than your trouser pocket. Where the knife is used the 
incautious and uninitiated invariably take off the portion that 
would have emitted roots. Insert the cuttings in pots of very 
sandy loam and peat, plunging them in cocoa fibre in small hand- 
lights. Give a good watering, and keep them close and shaded. 
In about three weeks or a month they will be sufficiently rooted for 
potting, after which place them in a cold frame and keep it close 
for a few days till they have become established. O. taurica 
comes from the Caucasus, as do some four other species. Of 
the remainder two only, I believe, are in cultivation—viz., 
O. stellulatum, Hungary, and O. echioides from S. Europe, while 
I have a somewhat faint recellection of once meeting with a 
so-called O. Candida. 
Omphalodes LucilIjE. —Who, among the favoured few that 
have_ seen this charming plant flowering, has not stooued to 
admire the sweetly modest beauty of its delicate sky-blue 
flowers P and where is the taste of him who cai’eless and un¬ 
heeded passed it by P If such a plant is destined to become an 
everyday occurrence on our rockeries, then it is only fair to 
assume that the cultur’e of really good alpines has at length 
att uned perfection, and to-day we are full of expectant hope that 
such may be the case, and with good reason. The plant under 
notice has fortunately been favoured with ample means by which 
it rnay be propagated. These are three —viz., by cuttings, by 
division of the rootstock, and by seed. To meet with the best 
amount of success try the first method. Great care is requisite, 
and experienced hands will have to perform the operation. The 
cuttings must be removed with a heel attached. In doing this 
care must be exercised, since the stripping of the cuttings from 
the stem in this way will materially weaken the plant i^ done 
roughly or by the inexperienced. Insert the cuttings in very 
sandy peat, to which may be added broken brick rubbish. Give 
a good watering and cover with a bellglass. Thus treated, and 
kept p rfectly close, 1 have rooted them in fourteen days or 
thereabouts, and there is no reason why others may not be 
equally successful by adopting the same plan. It is advan¬ 
tageous if a han llight be placed over the plants to be operated 
on about a fortnight prior to taking the cuttings, keeping it 
somewhat close, which will assist in lengthening the growths. 
The cuttings must never see a glimpse of sun till rooted. The 
division of the rootstock is a simple matter, the only things 
necessary being good plants such as are capable of withstanding 
the test. It must be done cautiously, however, or it will be found 
that the growths have all been severed from the parent without 
any roots. Anothei’ thing, do not give it too much of the 
nur eryman’s idea of division, by cutting it into microscopic 
scraps; you will be better off ultimately, and have fewer losses. 
Simplest of all the modes of progagating this little gem is 
that which Nature bestowed upon it—viz., seeds. In this way it 
is readilv increased. The plant, on the whole, is much more 
easily managed by seeds than any other way. It is both a 
profuse bloomer and free seeder. Flower spikes continue to 
rise from amidst its compact tufts of glaucous h aves till quite 
late in the autumn, and as a natural consequence daily watching 
is necessary to secure all the seeds. Place them when col¬ 
lected in such a position as they may not be influenced by atmo¬ 
spheric changes, and effect a sowing every few days. Wluui the 
seed is kept for any time I have known it to continue dormant 
for two seasons, but sown as soon as ripe it soon germinates. 
One peculiarity I have noticed in raising this phint from seed is 
that some come with light green leaves, quite devoid of that 
glaucous tint which is so distinguished a feature in the typical 
plant. While speaking of this I have in my mind’s eye what to 
me was a most sumptuous array of its flowers. This was in 
that almost unique and equally rich collection of choice alpine 
gems of which the late Mr. James Atkins of Painswick was 
possessed. In the hands of that worthy veteran this was made 
equally at home as though it still inhabited its native home on 
Mount Taurus. A small rockery full of such things as Ompha¬ 
lodes Lucilise and Tropaeolum | olvphyllum was en rtinssp, the 
aspect, if memory serves me right, being south-west. The 
garden was rich with many a choice gem, none more so than 
this. Mr. Atkins’ success with it might be in a manner ac¬ 
counted for, the garden being well sheltered though somewhat 
elevated among the Cotte.¥wolds, the oolitic marl and magnesian 
limestome which forms the subsoil being liberally used in potting, 
(especially so the crustaceous section of Saxifraga O, and which 
seemed conducive to their free growth and general well-being. 
Slate chippings were also used for pot plants of Omphalodes in 
this garden.—J. H. E. 
APPLE TREES FOR ORNAMENTAL PLANTING. 
I THINK that most people will agree with Mr. W. H. Divers that 
Apple trees “deserve to be used more than they have been for orna¬ 
menting landscapes.” My opinion is that the cider variet es are more 
adapted for ornamental planting than the choicer kinds. Generally the 
cider varieties are very symmetrical in growth, very free-blooming, and 
very free-fruited. What could be more beautiful in th^ landscape than 
the “ Old Foxwhelp ” loaded with fruit, its high colour being very telling ? 
It is not large fruited varieties which are wanted, although the Blenheim 
is one of the most deserving to be planted, as it makes a large sym¬ 
metrical spreading tree. The size and colour of the blooms should be of 
a secondary consideration, as the blossoming period is soon over, and all 
Apple trees are beautiful when in bloom. Free-fruiting and highly 
coloured varieties are what we require most.—A. 
ROOT-BOUND CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
Recently going around with a gardener, who is an excellent man in 
his profession, and more remarkable for being in advance than behind his 
fellows, pointing to a fine healthy stock of Chrysanthemums in about 
10-inch pots, “You see,” said he, “those are already root-bound—the 
roots have reached the edges of the pots. What am 1 to do wnh them ? ” 
The answer seemed simple enough, and I at once recommended repotting 
in one or two sizes larger, “ That is exactly what the master wo’n’t 
permit; his Chrysanthemums cannot be in larger pots.” That seemed 
curious, and it drove me to reflect on a few things in connection that 
your correspondent, whose “ current thoughts ” are so readable, would 
call “ thinking aloud.” First, is it really so desirable to strike Cnrysan- 
thsmum cuttings during the wflnter months in all cases, especially where 
Urge p 'ts are not permitted ; where specimens are not grown nor showing 
intended ? One of the invariable results is that of my gardening triend— 
plants permanently root-bound, next loss of foliage, then long gaunt bare 
stems, and a final result of twelve months’ care poor and unsatisfactory 
blooms, probably out of character altogether. His autumn-fl iwering 
ones, such as Madame Desgranges (the largest and best of this class), 
Soeur Melanie, Virginale, James Salter, Elaine, and a few others, will 
h'.oom, so far as I can see, in September or October, when they are not 
wanted, when floral profusion is strewn around. These may come fairly 
well, but as the Chrysanthemum is a gross feeder, no matter what artifi¬ 
cial stimulants are supplied, plants that were struck early and that are 
root-bound at the end of June must be unsatisfactory. At best that is 
my opinion, hut I am sure you will hospitably share your space with any 
of your correspondents who may have had a similar case to deal with, or 
on the subject generally. An evil that aggravates the difficulty and that 
invariably turns out unsatisfactory is when rooted side shoots are employed 
instead of cuttings. These rarely ever make good specimens ; and it too 
often is resorted to to save the trouble of waiting for cuttings to strike, 
watching from slugs, damp, &c. If put in in January or February they 
are rooted (established) in a fortnight, and will fill the largest pot with 
roots before June. They are root-bound then for months ; and ten times 
the labour of watering, manuring, and even mulching the surface will 
never make fine specimens of them. I would only pri pose for your con¬ 
sideration—1, Striking cuttings later for general decorative purposes, 
-ay in March ; 2, If very large pots are not either allowed or desirable, 
and that the roots have reached the edges of the pots in June or July, to 
plant out, say, in the vegetable garden, fully exposed ; and, 3, l'> insure 
success and no check, when lilting afterwards to repot, to keep the roots 
cut in occasionally around the ball. This plan succeeded with me last 
year. I had intended to add some observations in commendation of the 
