88 
JOURNAL OF llORTIGULTURj. ,AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
[ July SI, 1834. 
the hint may be useful, that tubers for culinary purposes 
must be stowed in total darkness; those for seed may have 
light, but it is very questionable if browning them in the 
sum is of any benefit whatever, while in the case of tubers 
not quite ripe it may be injurious. —Expeeientia docet. 
DELPHINIUMS. 
Plants with bright blue flowers are not common, and are usually 
of dwarf growth ; but in Delphiniums we have plants of stately habit 
attaining to a height of over 6 feet, being tine for back rows in 
borders. Their flowers are borne in long spikes, some very close and 
without much branching, whilst others branch considerably, and the 
branched parts of the spike are extremely useful for cutting and 
mixing with other flowers. The full spike is most effective in large 
vases, imparting a stateliness that is never obtained bj^ the employ¬ 
ment of a number of sprays of flowers varying little in height. The 
peculiar form of the flowers gives a fitne.-s for association with other 
plants which is strikingly effective and pleasing. One of their great 
merits is their hardiness and ease of culture. They will grow almost 
anyw'here in an open situation, but they are not seen at their best in 
shrubbery borders, as the soil is too poor or shaded to allow of their 
standing forth in their full proportions. A rich soil, deep, well 
drained, and light rather than wet and heavy, is the most suitable ; 
and the situation should be open, although a position sheltered from 
high winds is desirable. The soil where Delphiniums are to be grown 
should be well and deeply stirred, working in plenty of manure, leaf 
soil, or the refuse of the rubbish heap, whilst the refuse from the 
potting bench—crocks and all—are good for mixing with and im¬ 
proving soils that are heavy, as also is sand, ashes, and charred 
refuse. 
The best time to plant is in early spring just when they are push¬ 
ing the stems from the crowns ; and this, too, is the best time for 
propagation, as the rooting is accelerated by fresh growth, and the 
divisions soon become established. I have divided the plants many 
times in spring, and find they do much better than from divisions 
made in autumn. When divided at the latter time the chances are 
that wet will act very disastrously on the cut part of the division, 
often causing decay ; and slugs, which are very fond of Delphiniums, 
do much injury. Every bud that can be detached with a portion of 
the root-stem or crown will grow, but too much division weakens the 
plants, and the divisions are not likely to flower well the first season, 
the soil firmed moderately about them, and if dry watered. They 
should be planted with the crown about 2 inches beneath the surface. 
The divisions made in spring will flower a little later than plants 
that are not disturbed, the usual time of Delphiniums being in eai'U 
June onwards ; and they not only continue some time in flower, but 
w'hen the first flower stems are beginning to wane fresh ones issue 
from the base and form another display of bloom, which, if not equal 
to the first, is very serviceable for cutting and effective as well. The 
only thing to guard against is not to be in too great a hurry in cutting 
away the first flower stems and to keep the first from seeding, or the 
second growths will be poor ; hence when the first floweiing stems 
have bloomed to the piints they may be removed, and the young ones 
from the base will by that time be considerably advanced. During 
May and onwards liberal supplies of water or liquid manure in dry 
weather will help the plants, and a mulch about the plants will cause 
them to flower finer and longer whilst encouraging a second growth. 
Some enriching material placed over and around the crowns, jiointing 
it in lightly in spring, is all the care established plants need ; and 
about every third year they should be lifted and divided, planting the 
■same day or so soon as possible. Stakes should be put to the plants 
in good time, securing the stems to them with soft tarred twine, and 
where the growths are too numerous they must be reduced, reserving 
the strongest and most promising. 
The varieties are abundant, and where a number are grown it is 
remarkable how many fine forms can be raised by a careful selection 
of seed. Very good varieties can be ra'sed from a packet of seed, 
which may be sown in March, forwarded in a hotbed, pricked off, 
grown on, and hardened for final planting out in May. Most will 
flower the first year, but better the following season. The seed may 
also be sown as soon as ripe in light soil in the open border, and duly 
watered they will come up quickly, and the following spring they 
may be planted out where intended to bloom. 
Some of tbe best single varieties are Belladonna, sky blue ; Bril¬ 
liant, deep blue ; Bicolor Grandiflorum, large ; Magnificum, fine ; 
Madame Rougier, fine spike ; Azureum, light blue ; Madame Stenger, 
light blue ; Leonie Barbe, light blue ; Pulchrum, light blue ; Hender- 
soni, dark blue ; Madame Lelandais, sky blue; Conspicuum, dark blue ; 
and Lifeguardsmau. In doubles, which are more durable and very 
suitable for cutting, very fine are Madame Richalet, blue, fine ; Pompon 
Brilliant, violet blue ; Keteleeri, sky blue ; Amade Hans, bright blue ; 
Alopecurioides, dark blue, fine ; Beatsoni, deep blue ; William Pfitzer, 
sky blue ; Madame H. Jacotot, sky blue ; Protee, violet blue ; Hya- 
cinthiflorum, blue ; Obelisque, sky blue ; Magnetisme, blue ; and 
Donateur, dark blue. Some have white centres, and others are veiy 
beautiful from the lustre that pervades the flowers, and is beyond 
description. — G. Abbey. 
POTTING STRAWBEERY PLANTS. 
As now is the time to pot all Strawberry plants for fruiting 
next spring tbe operation will be general, and a few words on 
the matter will no doubt be acceptable to many. I have fruited 
Strawberry plants in 4, 6, G, 7, and 8-inclr pots. The first size is 
too small, excepting for very early-forcing-plants. The 8-inch 
pots ai’e too large for any advantage to be gained from them. 
They occupy far too much space for one thing, and the plants do 
no better than those in G-inch pots. Indeed, alHhings considered, 
G-inch pots are by far the most suitable in which to grow Straw¬ 
berry plants for forcing. Our crops from these have been finer 
than we could ever obtain from any other size ; we use no other 
now. and we would advise all to adhere to them as much as 
possible. We have tried two plants in one pot, but no good came 
of this. One thoroughly good fully developed plant is the best, 
and there is then no danger of failure. 
I do not like new pots for Strawberries. The soil always 
dries away from the edge of them and leaves a vacancy all round, 
which is not beneficial, but I am very much in favour of clean 
pots for the plants, and would never use dirty ones. They 
should also be dry and sufficiently drained. It is not a quantity 
of drainage that is needed but a little well arranged. Half a 
dozen pieces of broken p^'ts ;^operly placed in the bottom will 
make as efficient drainage as half a hundred thrown in roughly. 
Over the drainage of each it is well to place some of the roughest 
parts of the loam, and then potting must be done with the 
proper mixture. Excessively rich mixtures I do not value. They 
undoubtedly force the plants to make large leaves and altogether 
showy exteriors in the autumn, but those soft-grown plants do 
not come out well in spring. They do not force freely or fruit 
heavily; they assume a rusty appearance in the foliage at that 
season, produce plenty of bloom, but the majority are “blind ” 
and never form choice fruit. 
A compost of a very satisfactory character consists of a 
fourth decayed fibrous loam, adding an 8-inch poful of ground 
bone manure to every wheelbarrow-load of the soil, and if any 
other manure is added I would only use a small quantity of 
horse droppings, but the loam and bones are capable of pro¬ 
ducing splendid fruitful Strawberry plants. Sand should never 
be used in potting Strawberries, and the roots should never be 
disturbed any more than is necessary. The soil must be pressed 
firmly around the sides and finished off neatly about an inch 
below the rim of the pot. Pressing with the fingers and thumbs 
is generally not sufficient, a small blunt-pointed piece of wood 
should be used. After potting the pJants must always be placed 
on boards or a thick layer of coal ashes to prevent worms 
entering the pots.—A Kitchen Gaedenee. 
TREES AND SHRUBS FOR THE SEASIDE. 
Having noticed in the Jounm? o/" at different times 
queries from correspondents as to the best shrubs for planting at the 
seaside, it occurred to me that the following observations would be 
acceptable. Many shrubs which will thidve in one locality would be 
killed in another, and it depends on what kind of shelter the different 
shrubs or trees have when planted. It is very wrong to plant in 
positions exposed to the direct sea breezes those shrubs that are 
thriving in a sheltered position, although they may be not 100 yards 
away. Many gentlemen have made great mistakes in this by having 
noticed a few shrubs thriving in a sheltered place and thinking the 
same will do in a more exposed place. I know places within a mile 
from the garden under my charge where the Arbutus, Laurustinus, 
Portugal Laurels, Veronicas, &c., are doing fairly well, whilst they 
have been killed to the ground here, and in a winter like the past. 
To enjoy a garden on exposed coasts shelter must be provided, and 
experience will soon show where the shelter is required. It may be 
that at the exact place w’here the shelter is required it may obstruct 
some view. In this case low-growing plants like the Willows or 
Tamarisk may be employed ; belts of these break the force of the wind 
very much. 
The following trees form a very good belt for protecting the 
smaller shrubs—Pinus austriaca, P. Pinaster, P. insignis, with a few 
Sycamore and Wych Elm intermixed. They will have to be planted 
rather closely, so as to shelter one another, and the belt should consist 
of from four to six rows. It must be borne in mind that if planted 
