August 7, 1884.] 
JOURl^AL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
133 
Hydrangeas {E. B. /).).—If yon partly cut down the jdants—that is, 
shorten them to the strongest gi’owths to which you refer as sprung from 
the lower part of the stems, remove some of the surface soil and add fresh 
compost, plunge the pots in ashes in a sunny position, they will form 
sturdy growths that may possibly flower next year. If you cut the plants 
quite down to dormant buds they will not have time to jjroduce growths 
strong enough for flowering in 1885. The young plants you struck in 
spring, and which are now established in IS-size pots, ought to produce 
fine crowns this autumn and large trusses in the spring and early summer. 
They should not be shifted into larger pots now, but plunged in a sunny 
place out of doors, and watered sufficiently to keep them steadily growdng, 
reducing the supply as the autumn advances, and only giving sufficient in 
the winter to prevent the leaves shrivelling. The plants can either be 
placed in larger pots in the spring or top-dressed and supported with 
liquid manure when the flower trusses are visible in the points of the 
shoots. 
Striking Calceolaria Cuttings {E. A. E.). —You are mistaken in sup¬ 
posing that the cuttings will not strike now. They will strike readily 
enough if inserted in sandy soil and kept moist and shaded to prevent 
flagging. The reason why October propagation is recommended is because 
the plants stand the winter better than if raised much earlier, and are 
sturdier in the spring and thrive better than plants that are rooted long 
before winter. Cuttings also are stronger and far more plentiful in October 
than in August. 
Budded Briars (G. D., Devon). —We should not shorten the Briars close to 
the inserted buds, as if this is done before the buds have “ taken” there will 
be a check to the flow of sap that may prevent the desired union of the buds 
with the stocks ; while if the union is effected and the buds dormant yet 
healthy, it will be better for them to remain so until the spring, as if forced 
into growth late in the autumn, as they may be by shortening the Briars, the 
growths will not have time to mature, and will thus be liable to be seriously 
injured if not killed during the winter. 
Cucumbers for Winter {E. Mason). —It is not at all too soon for sowing 
the seeds, or striking cuttings either. Many persons fail by raising plants 
too late. September-raised plants have not time for attaining the requisite 
strength for bearing from November onwards. The best winter Cucumbers 
we ever had were raised from seed sown during the last week in July. 
Grown with abundance of light and air and in rather firm soil, they made 
strong short-jointed growths, and produced far more fruit than it would 
have been prudent to allow to remain on the plants ; in fact, bearing the plants 
heavily late in the autumn or early in winter is the best method we know of 
preventing anything like a good and regular supply of Cucumbers from 
Christmas till March. Cardiff Castle and Telegraph are good varieties for 
winter, some gardeners preferring the former, others the latter. As you 
have room for half a dozen plants you will not seriously err by growing 
three of each. 
Seedling Strawberries {Henry Fenwich). —In consequence of the box 
being only half filled, the fruit, as might be expected, was so much shaken 
that not one berry arrived in anything like a sound state. All that we are 
able to say is, that the fruit is of average size, and the flavour appears good ; 
but sound examples are necessary for judging with accuracy. If you draw 
up an advertisement and send it to the publisher he will inform you of the 
cost of insertion. 
Azaleas in Summer {E. Davis). —The different advice you have had 
need not seriously perplex you. Some of the finest Azaleas are kept under 
glass always, but they are in houses that are well adapted for these plants, 
which have all the light and air needed for keeping them in good con¬ 
dition. It is different with plants that are crowded with many others in 
conservatories and vineries, and rather than allow them to be half-stifled 
there we should certainly place them in the open air for a month or six 
six weeks from the present time. If the sun is bright when the plants are 
removed from the houses it will he well to afford them slight shade for a 
week or so, but they will eventually endure the full sun and be benefited 
by it provided, and this is important, the root-action is good and water is 
applied judiciously. The pots should be shaded, as if the sun strikes 
directly on them it is almost sure to injure the roots. 
Venus’ Looking Glass for Spring {Mrs. Lawton). —This is one of the 
prettiest and hardiest of annuals, but it does not flower so early as some 
others, and is not off Ihe ground soon enough for persons who wish to put 
out their summer bedders as soon as possible in May. If seed is sown thinly 
towards the end of the present month in an open position and not too rich 
soil, it will be a severe winter if it destroys the plants, and then if planted 
in clumps in mixed beds early in the spring will be very attractive in May 
and June; far more so, indeed, than plants that are raised by sowing in 
spring. 
Stove Flowering Plants (zl. B. A.). —To have the plants in flower by the 
end of June or early in July the AHamanda and Stephanotis must have their 
growth completed and thoroughly ripe by the end of October. They should 
rest for two months after the date given in a temperature ranging from 50° 
to 55° at night. The first mentioned may be kept quite dry at the roots, 
while the latter should have no more water than is necessary to keep the 
wood and foliage fresh. The 1st of January the plants should he started in 
brisk moist heat where the temperature can be maintained for (15° to 70° at 
night, with a rise of 5° or 10° by day. As soon as they show signs of growth, 
if the plants need potting this should be done. For some time after potting 
water must be applied with great care. The syringe should be used freely 
two or three times a day. The Clerodendron should be kept growing until 
the end of the year if possible ; in fact, no attempt should be made to send it 
to rest. After that date it may be kept drier at the roots until the foliage 
ripens, and water can be entirely withheld from the roots. While at rest 
this plant should not be in a lower temperature than 55° at night, or else 
when wanted to start into growth it may fail to do so. This plant may be 
started into growth by introducing it into brisk heat about the first week in 
April, and it will then come into flow’er about the same time as the tw'o 
plants started in January. The Bougainvillea should not be put to rest 
before November, and while at rest will bear being kept dry at the roots, and 
in a temperature of 45° to 50°. It should be started into growth about the 
middle of March the same as the others. It must be understood that when 
these plants are put to rest water must not be'^withheld from them suddenly, 
but gradually, until the foliage ripens naturally and the wood becomes firm. 
The Anthurium should be kept in a stove teui})erature until the end of thu 
year, and then in a night temperature of from 50° to 55° until the middle of 
March, w'hen it can again be returned to the stove. While at rest much 
water will cause the roots to decay in the lower temperature which is 
essential to induce rest and keep the plant back for the time you want it to 
flower. If your AHamanda and Bougainvillea are as large as you need them 
they will require pruning before they are started, but this we presume you 
understand. It is better to be a week too early than several days too late in 
having plants in flower for a particular occasion, as they can be retarded a 
little if needed ; but if too late in the earlier stages of growth, while unusually 
dull and cold weather occurs later, it is beyond the power of the cultivator to 
attain his object of having them in the best condition on a specified date. 
Name of Fruit {T. A.). —The Peach being overripe when packed, and 
the paper box much too fragile, it was crushed, and the escaping juice from 
the fruit saturated the cardboard almost to the melting point. It is a wonder 
the postal authorities delivered it. Of course, the fruit is unnameable. 
Names of Plants {Pen and Inh). —The specimens are in better condition 
this time, and it is clear you have taken great pains to keep them fresh. 
There is no plan so good as packing them so as to be immoveable in a small 
box with a little damp moss or other moisture-holding material secured round 
the stems, and the flowers themselves enclosed in a soft green leaf, such as 
Spinach or Rhubarb with the midrib removed; enclosed in dry paper the 
moisture is extracted from them in hot weather. The names of your flowers 
are—1, Mimulus cardinalis ; 2, Francoa ramosa ; 3, Bartonia aurea; 4, As- 
trantia pauciflora. {Augusta). —Cyrtanthus carneus. {Clifford). —Calystegia 
Sepium. {J. B. P. tj- Sons). —Silene armeria var. compacta. {Young Gar¬ 
dener). —1, Lysimachia Nummularia (Creeping Jenny); 2, Ajuga reptans, em¬ 
ployed in spring bedding ; 3, Aspidistra lurida variegata; 4, Philadelphus 
coronaria ; 5, Magnolia grandiflora. (S. A .).—Alstroemeria aurea. Plant in 
the autumn. {Flora). — 1, Oxalis corniculata ; 2, Chenopodium album ; 3, not 
recognisable ; 4, Plantago media ; 5, Sonchus asper ; G, Polygonum viviparum. 
Supering—Removing Bees and Honey {E. S .).—The bees will fill the 
super if they can gather sufficient honey to do so, and you may then remove 
it; but we cannot advise you to drive the bees or take the honey from the 
hive so late in the season as you propose, as that is never a safe course for 
inexperienced bee-keepers to adopt. 
Supering {B. S. T .).—If the hive and super are full by all means remove 
the latter and put on another. If the weather remains fine and the bee 
pasturage of your district good, there will be no difficulty in having this 
second super filled, unless it be a very large one, and it may be taken off 
also. 
Bees Swarming {T. II .).—You appear to us to have made the man a very 
liberal offer under the circumstances. He can undoubtedly be proceeded 
against for trespass, and we think something more, but on this point a 
solicitor is the proper person to advise you. Possibly if you were to send a 
policeman to the man he might settle the matter without further difficulty. 
According to your statement, however, you appear to be completely master 
of the situation. 
Joining Swarms {Bichard Haynes ).—You wish to learn which swarms to 
take and how to join bees. The old stocks are certain to have queens of this 
year. New combs are the best both as stocks as well as for dripping. You 
must determine which you will take. Preserve the youngest queens and have 
both bees fully gorged with honey, then shake them altogether. Secure the 
oldest queens, kill them, then put each amongst its respective bees. This 
protects the other queen from rough treatment. 
Uncompleted Sections (J. Marriott ).—You have about 80 tbs. of uncom¬ 
pleted sections with no chance of being filled from gathered honey this sea¬ 
son. Select your best hive for this purpose—that is, a strong one and which 
has all its body combs full of brood or honey. Place a portion of your 
sections on it, and feed the remainder either from below or at extension, 
but which few hives have. If your hives have none of these facilities 
place some of the sections at the entrance after sunset, and lift them by 
sunrise next morning. After you get some of the sections completed and 
the others emptied, hermetically seal the latter, and store them in a dry place 
for the next season. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— August Gth. 
Soft fruit stiU in good supply with prices unaltered. 
FRUIT. 
3. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
Apples. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
to 0 
0 
Oranges. 
6 
0 to 10 
0 
Cherries. 
1 sieve 
18 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches . 
perdoz. 
4 
0 
12 
0 
Chestnuts .. .. 
bushel 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears, kitchen .. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Currants, Red 
A sieve 
3 
0 
4 
0 
,, dessert 
dozen 
1 
0 
5 
0 
„ Black .. 
J sieve 
3 
0 
3 
3 
Pine Apples English .. lb. 
2 
0 
3 
6 
Figs . 
dozen 
2 
0 
0 
0 
Raspberries .. 
per lb. 
0 
S 
0 
4 
Grapes. 
.. lb. 
2 
0 
5 
0 
Strawberries.. 
0 
2 
0 
9 
Lemons .. .. 
r, case 
15 
0 
21 
0 
St. Michael Pines 
..each 
2 
0 
6 
0 
VEGETABLES 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
Artichokes 
. dozen 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Mushrooms .. 
. punnet 
0 
0 
to 1 
6 
Beans, Kidney 
lb. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Mustard and Cress 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Beet, Red 
. dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Onions. 
bushel 
2 
6 
3 
0 
Broccoli .. 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Parsley .. dozen bunches 
2 
0 
8 
0 
Brussels Sprouts 
. i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Parsnips. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Cabbage .. ,. 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Potatoes. 
. cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Capsicums 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
,, Kidney . 
. cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Carrots .. .. 
0 
8 
0 
4 
„ New .. . 
cwt. 
5 
0 
9 
0 
Cauliflowers .. 
. dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Rhubarb. 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Celery .. .. 
. bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Salsafy. 
bundle 
1 
0 
0 
6 
Coleworts dez 
bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzonera .. . 
bundle 
1 
6 
0 
6 
Cucumbers .. 
. each 
0 
3 
0 
e 
Shallots. 
.. Ib. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Endive .. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Spinach. 
bushel 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Herbs .. ,. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes 
.. lb. 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Leeks .. .. 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Turnips .. ,. .. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Lettuce .. ., 
1 
0 
1 
6 
