226 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 4, 1884. 
also been done where the growth was thin enough to prevent shading 
of the interior of the tree, but when the shoots are very numerous shorten¬ 
ing is the best way of making sure of the spurs being fully exposed, and 
it imparts a more trim neat appearance to the trees, which also has to be 
considered in all conspicuous positions. 
Root-priming. —Mark now all trees much given to produce wood at 
the expense of fruit, and let root-pruning begin about the third week of 
September this year, for the hot dry weather has been highly favourable 
to the ripening of the wood, and it is well to get the roots pruned before 
the leaves begin to fall if only the branch growth is sufficiently mature. 
This is, undoubtedly, the best way of checking over-luxuriance of growth 
and of keeping branch and root growth fairly balanced. We have 
several Pear and Plum trees to do this year, and will give full details of 
the process in another calendar. 
Ripe Fruit. —Apples already gathered : Margaret, Worcester Pear- 
main, Devonshire Quarrenden, Duchess of Oldenburg, Manks Codlin, 
Keswick Codlin, Oslin. Pears.—Summer Doyenne, Citron des Carmes, 
Beurre Giffard, Jargonelle, Williams’ Bon Chi&tien. Plums.—Rivers’ 
Early, Early Orleans, Green Gage. Peaches.—Early Beatrice, Early 
Rivers, Early Albert, Grosse Mignonne, Dr. Hogg, Rivers’ Early York. 
Nectarines.—Advance, Lord Napier, Rivers’ White. Figs.—Brunswick. 
FRUIT FORCING 
Vines. — Vines in Pots. — Those intended for early work should be 
divested of all laterals close down to the main buds, and in the event of 
their being still under glass no time should be lost in getting them removed 
to a south wall in the open air. They must be well secured from injury 
by wind, and to prevent the roots from becoming too dry a little litter or 
fern may be placed loosely round the pots. Keep rather dry, but do not 
allow them to become parchingly dry at the roots. 
Forty Vinery. —Permanent Vines in the early house should be 
encouraged to go to rest by having all lateral growths removed, care 
being taken not to injure the old leaves, as these will help to perfect the 
bunch-bearing buds. It will be necessary to admit abundance of air, 
and, if the roots are in good condition, the check which follows the 
removal of the laterals generally produces the desired effect. 
Mid.season Houses. — These will now or soon be cleared of their 
crops, and should be thoroughly washed with the syringe or engine to free 
them from dust or red spider. A moderate extension of the laterals may 
be allowed with a view to keep up the activity of the roots, but all gross 
laterals should be pinched, so as to divert the sap into the less vigorous 
parts, and keep up an equal diffusion throughout the Vines. If there is 
any doubt about the ripeness of the wood, maintain a gentle fire heat by 
day, so as to cause a circulation of dry warm air, closing early in the 
afternoon with sun heat, allowing an advance to 85° or 90°, and when the 
temperature declines, or before nightfall, admit air top and bottom ; in 
fact, throw the house open for the night, the heat being turned off early 
in the afternoon, so that the pipes may cool before night. This will cause 
the Vines to ripen the wood, which should be brown and hard and the 
buds prominent in order to secure a satisfactory result. Houses in which 
ripe Hamburghs are hanging will be the better for having some light 
shading drawn over them for a few hours on bright days, as the strain of 
a heavy crop and their hanging after being ripe taxes the Vines severely ; 
besides, the berries soon lose colour when exposed to powerful sun, and 
are much deteriorated in quality. 
Muscats and Late Grapes. —The winter-hanging kinds ought now to 
have the Grapes in a degree of ripeness that will admit of a reduction of 
fire heat, and a lower temperature through the night. This treatment 
applies to houses that were helped forward with a little heat in the spring, 
but where this was not practised it may be necessary, fine as the season 
has been, to keep the fires going, and this, as is well known, is not 
favourable to the finish or the keeping of the Grapes. Keep the laterals 
fairly in hand, admit air freely on all favourable occasions. 
Late Houses of Hamhurghs. —The Grapes in these are now colouring 
fast, the bright weather having forced them forward with greater rapidity 
than may be desirable, at least where they are to be kept until December. 
In this case plenty of foliage for another month or six weeks will be of 
great service both in delaying the ripening and preserving the colour of 
the fruit. As days decrease in length, and there is danger to be appre¬ 
hended from excess of moisture, the steady reduction of the laterals and 
increased ventilation with increased fire heat will be advantageous to the 
Grapes and the ripening of the wood. To succeed well with late 
Hamburghs, which are very much esteemed by some persons, it is necessary 
to remove all the large and loose bunches, and to well thin the medium¬ 
sized ones to prevent the berries binding. These are always much 
appreciated at table. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
FpipTiyllums .—These are beautiful plants for decoration during the 
winter months, and in order to grow them to perfection they need 
attention at the present time. While growth is being made a little shade 
is beneficial, but directly it is completed they must be exposed to light 
and air to thoroughly ripen and harden them, or they will flower only 
poorly instead of profusely. They should be exposed to light without 
delay, and should not be allowed to suffer by an insufficient supply of 
water at their roots. It is a great mistake to dry them at the root and 
keep them in that condition, as many do, 
Ahutilons. —To have dwarf useful plants in 5-inch pots for flowering 
during the winter, good strong cuttings should be selected and rooted at 
once in 2 or 3-inch pots. The cuttings may be inserted singly, so that no 
check is given to the plants after they are rooted, and they can be repotted 
as soon as they are ready. The cuttings of these plants root readily in a 
close frame in a heated structure if kept shaded from strong sun. 
They should afterwards be grown in an intermediate temperature, and if 
they advance too rapidly they may be subject to cool treatment. If 
larger plants are required, insert four or five cuttings together and grow 
them without disturbing them afterwards. 
Impatiens Sultam. —This is a useful plant for decoration all the year 
round ; it never fails to flower freely, and is useful both in the stove, 
intermediate, and cool house, but for autumn, winter, and spring it should 
only be employed in the two former. Small plants in 2 and 3-inch pots 
are very useful, and batches of cuttings should be inserted at intervals of 
a few weeks where a succession of dwarf plants are required. The 
cuttings strike much bettor when inserted singly in small pots and placed 
upon a shelf in a heated house close to the glass ; they should be shaded 
from the sun. When the pots containing the cuttings are placed in a 
close atmosphere such as that maintained in the propagating frame they 
are very liable to damp off. 
Rertolonia.s. —These are very beautiful foliage plants, and where they 
are appreciated in good condition during the winter they should be re¬ 
rooted at the present time. Plants rooted in the spring and grown 
during the summer do not pass the winter so well as those that are rooted 
now. If good tops are taken off and inserted in any light sandy soil and 
kept close in a moist shady frame they will root freely without losing 
a single leaf. The stems of the old plants if retained will break again 
into growth, and will either make useful plants or supply cuttings for 
increasing the stock if needed. Peat fibre, sphagnum moss, and sand will 
grow these plants well. 
CyanopJiylluni magnijicuni. —One of the most noble and beautiful 
stove foliage plants in cultivation when well grown. It is propagated by 
side shoots and eyes, which, if inserted in sandy soil and placed in a close 
frame where they can be shaded from the sun, will root freely. Cuttings 
inserted now will make splendid specimens another year. This plant 
does not produce side shoots without the centre of the plant has been 
removed to induce it to break from the axils of the leaves. These side 
shoots when large enough should be slipped off close to the old stem, and 
will root freely if kept close in brisk heat. To develope thoroughly the 
foliage of this plant so as to display its true character, liberal root room 
should be given, and strong light should never be allowed to reach the 
foliage, or it is sure to be injured. These plants are not very particular 
about soil, for they appear to do as well in sphagnum moss and sand as they 
do in equal parts of peat and loam ; we prefer the latter, although they do 
well in the former. These plants are the most beautiful when grown to a 
single stem, or at the most not more than two stems, for the foliage becomes 
crowded and the beauty of the plants spoiled. They should be grown in 
a moist warm atmosphere, or the edges of the foliage soon turn brown. 
Sphferogyne latifolia is another beautiful foliage plant that is very similar 
yet totally distinct from the above, and requires exactly the same treat¬ 
ment. It is propagated by cuttings in the form of side shoots ; we have 
never succeeded in raising it from eyes the same as the Cyanophyllum. 
Caladium arggrites. —A charming dwarf foliage plant for decoration 
during the autumn and winter, and when associated with Ferns or any 
similar plants it has a very beautiful appearance. To have plants in 
good condition in 3 and 4-inch pots for that purpose they should be 
divided now and repotted. After potting place them in brisk heat, and 
shade them from strong sun until they are established. By dividing 
plants occasionally and pushing them into active growth, fresh life is 
added to them, and they will remain in beauty for a long time. Without 
this they would as the days shorten show signs of exhaustion, and the 
foliage would commence fading. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Propagating Redding Plants, — It is not advisable to depend upon 
lifted old plants of sucU kinds as Iresines, Alternantheras, Heliotropes, 
Ageratums, Verbenas, Tropaeolums, &c., as these, even if they survive the 
operation, do not always grow so freely as it is necessary they should do 
when cuttings are required. Strong rooted cuttings or late spring-struck 
plants kept in pots are the best in most cases, but those who have neither 
the one nor the other should lose no time before they attempt to strike a 
number of cuttings. A mild hotbed is the best for the purpose, and soft 
growing shoots should be selected, and dibbled in thinly either in well- 
drained pans or boxes tilled with light sandy soil. Keep them close and 
shaded till rooted, and carefully remove all decaying leaves. The Ver¬ 
benas and Ageratums may be wintered in the boxes; but the remainder, 
being more liable to damp off, should be potted either singly in small 
pots or several in larger pots, and then may be wintered on shelves. 
Gazanias, Violas, and Calceolarias may be struck later on, while the 
Marguerites lift readily, and a few old plants will yield any number of 
cuttings in the spring. If, however, strong plants of the latter are re¬ 
quired for furnishing window boxes, cuttings should at once be rooted in 
heat, and the plants resulting be potted off singly and kept growing 
steadily through the winter. Zonal Pelargonium cuttings that may be 
put in near the present time should be placed under glass, and receive 
little or no water till callused, otherwise they will damp off badly. The 
delicate bronze, golden, and silver variegated sorts winter best in well- 
drained 6, 7, or 8-inch pots on shelves in any airy greenhouse or 
vinery. If already rooted in boxes we would pot them, as they seldom 
do well in boxes during the winter. All Zonal Pelargoniums in boxes 
or pots now rooting in the open should be housed before c Id and wet 
weather sets in, as should they once become badly saturated many plants 
may be lost before the soil regains the requisite moderately dry state. 
Sgring-floivcring Plants. —These must be properly attended to if a 
