234 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 11» 1884. 
years, and, as a means of quickly filling tlie places of these, very 
little pruning should be attempted in so far as the leading growths 
are concerned. Continued attention to the production of fruiting 
spurs by sj^steraatic pinching should also be made a point of routine 
culture, and as final advice I would recommend the growing of Moor 
Park on a more limited scale than formerly. Owing to its fine flavour 
we cannot lay it aside altogether, but the slight growth it makes 
renders it more susceptible to injury than other kinds, and it is wise 
to depend on more vigorous kinds for the production of fruit for 
cooking and preserving purposes. One of the best, probably the best, 
is Shipley. It is poor in flavour, but the ti'ee makes rapid growth, 
and when established is an abundant bearer of good-sized fruit. 
Peach is of value for a late supply for dessert, and Kaisha is the 
earliest kind we have yet fruited, and for that reason is worthy of a 
place. When Apricots do very badl}’^ the only plan to pursue is to 
keep on planting. Maidens are much better than trees that are older. 
There is generally room for a few of these at the bottoms of walls until 
they are wanted to fill positions permanently.—N. B. 
THE PLAGUE OF WASPS. 
From various parts of this country I hear complaints about the 
number of wasps and their destructiveness this season. No ordin^^’y 
remedies are of any appreciable avail, and I have long ago arrived at the 
conclusion that when wasps are very plentiful taking their nests in 
different ways is so much labour thrown away. The better plan is to 
preserve the fruit from the wasps rather than to waste time and money in 
the vain attempt to exterminate them. Unfortunately the wasps do not 
wait till the fruit is nearly ripe, or in most cases their attaeks might be 
anticipated by gathering and ripening Pears and some other fruits under 
glass—say on the shelves of a protected vinery or under handlights. The 
wasps attack quite green fruits and quickly clear them olf, and the only 
remedy is to either cover each single fruit with a muslin bag, or to cover a 
whole tree with scrim canvas or other light material that will effectually 
keep out the enemy. Even in this case the fruit must be watched closely, 
or when the bags especially are opened it may be found that woodlice or 
eirwings have commenced to eat the fruit, this probably causing a rapid 
decay. 
These remarks, however, were suggested by a recent visit to a neigh¬ 
bouring vinery, and it is about the preserving of Grapes I am at present 
most coneerned. The notion that Tomatoes growing in a vinery would 
serve to drive away wasps will not, I should say, be believed in by many 
after this season. At any rate, they have completely failed to answer this 
purpose in our case, and we have been obliged to nail strips of scrim 
canvas over every ventdator in each house, and this we find the hest pre¬ 
ventive. In some cases, especially when there are only a few bunches, it 
may be the simplest plan to enclose each bunch in a muslin bag, but this 
would not be resorted to by me if it could possibly be avoided. Those who 
adopt this plan—and I believe there are many who do—I would advise 
not to rest contented that their Grapes are perfectly safe, as this very 
precaution against wasps may also be a source of danger. Enclosed in a 
muslin bag the air is naturally excluded from them to a considerable 
extent, and no one need be surprised when they openei a long-closed bag 
10 find the whole bunch decayed. E very bunch ought to be examined on ce a 
week and every decaying berry carefully removed. A single decaying berry 
quickly affects the whole bunch—hence the necessity for its early removal. 
I would prefer to cut and bottle all fully ripe Grapes, placing them in a 
dry and not very light airy room, where wasps may be easily excluded. 
Any kind of small bottles, such as those used for seltzer, sola water, ginger 
beer, &c., will do, and these may he suspended from a rail or shelf and 
filled with hard or spring water. A good piece of the lateral growth 
should be cut with each bunch, and when this is inserted in the bottles the 
weight of the bunches will bring the bottles into a stooping position, and 
they will thus swing quite clear of the glass. The bottles should be kept 
filled with water, and this will keep the footstalks green and the berries 
plump without any apparent impairment of the quality or keeping pro¬ 
perties. This early cutting is also beneficial to the Vines, and admits of 
the houses where necessary being filled with bedding plants, Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, or other plants requiring some protection from frosts.—W. 
Iggulden. 
There are many cures for most complaints and diseases, and those for 
destroying wasps and flies are nT less numerous. Few, however, seem to 
believe in the old though very true proverb that “ prevention is better than 
cure.” Still the fact remains, and 1 am sure not a few have been puzzling 
their brains of late as to how these pests can be dispo«ed of, and especially 
those having valuable fruit indoors as well as out. For preserving indoor 
crops of Grapes and such-like fruits we invariably see bottles suspended to 
the roof, into which the wasps have to find their way, but instead of which 
they not unfrequently turn their attention to the equally tempting fruit, 
and getting their fill without risking their heads. They* retire, taking 
particular notice of the number of house and street. Now, is there nothing 
by which they may be arrested outside }—for example, give them a good 
feed of inj ured fruit .P But cannot we trap them meanwhile? Yes, and 
this is the modus ojjerandi. It is an old one, though none the worse for 
its age—nay, it should be respected all the more, since it is the most 
efficacious trap I know of: —Take, then, two square handlights (those 
with moveable lids preferred) and with them four bricks, one for each 
corner, and place one of the lights upon them. Eemove one of the small 
pieces of glass from near the summit of lid No. I and return it to its place, 
after which fix the second handlight upon the first. Thus placed the two 
make a capital substitute for a hive. Now place some of the ripest injured 
fruits you can find beneath the lower handlight and the trap is complete. 
After getting their fill they rise to depart, and ultimately find themselves 
in the upper room, wh'ch they never leave alive. With the aid of a Uttle 
sulphur each evening they are destroyed, and in this simple way I have 
known thousands to be captured and killed daily. The more traps used 
the greater the slaughter.—J. C. 
[This simple method of entrapping wasps is figured on page 185, vol. 1, 
new series, the issue of August 26th, 1880.] 
HARDY BULBOUS PLANTS FOR THE CONSERVATORY. 
There are many hardy spring bulbs well adapted for embellishing the 
conservatory during the early spring months. A few pots each of those 
we shall mention are a great help to a gardener who has to provide a 
good variety of flowering plants during the early months of the year. 
Irises. —The following early-flowering Irises are very charming and 
of easy culture. About five bulbs should be placed in a 48-sized pot, 
which should be well drained, the soil to consist of the usual nature used 
for Hyacinths. After potting place them in a cold frame, and when they 
have made an inch or two of growth they should be introduced at intervals 
to the greenhouse, and a display may be kept up for some time. 
I. Pavonia, I. persica, and Iris reticulata. Iris Susiana is also adapted 
for the purpose in question. 
Triteleia uniplora. —It is not often that this pretty little bulbous 
plant is grown in pots, but it is well worth the honour. The bulbs should 
be placed as closely together as possible in 5-inch pots, and place these 
plunged in ashes in a cold frame, then as the flower stems commence to 
show remove the pots to a greenhouse. 
Fritillaria Meleagris, — The old Snake’s-head Lily and its 
varieties are very interesting when grown in pots. Place about five bulbs 
in a 48-sized pot, and treat similarly to the above until the plants show 
their flower stems. These and all hardy bulbous plants, after they have 
started into growth, should be placed where they may receive abundance 
of light. 
Mdscaris —These are most valuable for the conservatory. Several 
bulbs should be placed in 7-inch pots. After they are potted plunge 
them in cocoa-nut until the growths appear through the soil, when 
they should receive abundance of light and air. The light blue varieties 
are very effective. 
Narcissus Bulbocodium. —This is very effective when grown in 
pots. About six bulbs should be pl.aced in a 6-inch pot, and treated as 
above described ; they are charming for the front stages of a greenhouse, 
and when once well grown they will be grown again. 
Freesias. —These lovely Cape bulbs should find a place in every con¬ 
servatory. They should be potted early in the autumn. Place about 
three bulbs in a 48-pot, which should be well drained, the soil to 
consist of a light open material. After potting plunge them in cocoa-nut 
fibre until they commence to grow, when they should be placed in a light 
cold frame. Water must be applied carefully. 
The following are also very useful :—Scilla siberica, Chionodoxa 
Luciliae, Ixias, Sparaxis, Babianas, and Tritonias, all of which succeed 
under the same treatment recommended for Freesias.—A. YOUNG. 
TIGRIDIAS. 
These are showy flowers for summer beds in groups here and there ; 
not required too thickly, however, for then their gaudy colours would act 
as a conductor, and naught else be seen. I am not convinced that Mr. 
Guthrie’s estimate of the time of planting and his method are quite right 
for this side the Channel, and unless he is planting on very light sandy 
soils he will find that the months of February and March will be anything 
but favourable for the operation, and would he unconditionally prefer 
those months and his prescribed depth on stiffer soils ? On these latter 
with his long dibble he would have an arm-aching time I am sure. I have 
realised such excellent results from April planting at 3 inches deep that 
I shall never depart from it; and I know this much, that bulbs from 
warmer climes than om' own, and which we can only risk in the ground 
for six months of the year, are not benefited by deep planting, to say 
nothing of the extra labour entailed in lifting, and, being nearer the sur¬ 
face the bulbs ripen somewhat earlier too. T. Herberti may be left in 
the soil all the winter ; it is never harmed if it receives frame protection. 
A minimum unconditional depth of 0 inches for Tiger Flowers is a little 
too much, and for pot culture ordinary pots would be out of it altogether. 
Extended drain-pipes would more likely meet the case, and assure a little 
soil below the bulbs ; but what of Herbert’s Tigridia at this depth? It 
reminds me of the foreigner’s “tip” for Ixia-growing in England. He 
said the whole secret lay in deep planting, and they should be planted 
at least (he emphasised those words) 12 inches deep. What charming 
little things these would be—when they came up !— Speciaeist. 
HOT WEATHER AND FRUIT TREES. 
Tour correspondent “Thinker” is not always right in his 
conclusions, at least so it seems to me. He appears to take for 
granted the accuracy of Mr. Abbey’s deductions that the scarcity 
of fruit of the past few years has been more the result of im¬ 
mature wood in autumn than of frost in spring. I am unable to 
