250 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Septcmljer 11 , 1884 . 
they have been by our men, there will be no pressing work here at 
present; but garden operations are never ended, and although we may 
not be overwhelmed with work just now, there are many little details 
which we never cease to attend to. Amongst these we would mention 
Planting Cdbhages .—It is now the main batch of the autumn-sown 
stock ought to be planted out. We generally plant after our spring 
Onions, and lately we have been pulling up the latter, hoeing and raking 
the surface of the ground, and then dibbling in the Cabbage 18 inches 
apart each way. The Onion ground having been well manured in spring 
no more is added now. 
Potatoes .—The majority of the stems of these have quite died down, 
and as they gain no advantage through being left in the soil afterwards, 
we shall continue digging up our crops as the weather admits. No digging 
should be done when it is wet overhead or damp under foot, but every 
advantage should be taken of fine days to secure the tubers. Carefully 
exclude all those diseased, and handle the good ones carefully, as a really 
good Potato is the king of vegetables. 
Spinach .—Winter crops of this are now well through the soil, and the 
plants should be thinned to at least 6 inches apart, as they are both 
hardier and produce much finer leaves when thinned than when grown 
in a close mass. 
Radishes .—Many winter crops of these are spoiled through close 
sowing in the first place and neglect in thinning afterwards, but if they 
are taken in hand when about an inch high, and the plants singled out to 
3 inches apart, the result will be an excellent crop. 
Parsley .—All plantations should be examined and have all leaves 
which are not fresh and green removed. In many cases when this is done 
there will be few large leaves left, but if there are plenty of young ones 
these will soon spring up and afford a very useful winter supply. We 
prefer a thin row of fresh young leaves to a bushy one of old foliage at 
the beginning of winter. 
Celery .—Much of this will now require earthing-up, but take off all 
small side leaves before applying the earth, then tie the large ones 
together, put the soil near them with the spade, and finally press it round 
them with the hands. Do not begin to earth very late crops yet, but 
finish the early ones, as Celery is now coming into season. 
Carrots .—Thin out the early Horns sown a few weeks ago to 3 inches 
apart, then hoe between the rows, and delicious little roots will be 
formed before November. 
Pull up all spring-sown crops and spread them out to dry 
before storing. Those having green stems when drawn should have 
these twisted round to stop further growth. When they are quite dry 
we brush the rough of the stems off, but we do not attempt to thoroughly 
clean the bulbs, leaving that to be done on wet days. 
Peas and Peans .—Many of these are now over, and the old straw may 
be cleared off as soon as convenient. Save and store the best of the Pea 
stakes, as they will do for mixing in with new ones next season. Where 
birds are destroying the pods on good rows of late Peas they should be 
netted to preserve them. 
Ilerhs .—Cooks should now have large quantities of these to dry for 
the winter. Kidney Beans should be gathered and salted for winter use. 
Turnips should be thinned, all ripe Tomatoes cut, and any kind of ripe 
seed taken under cover. 
PRUIT-POECING. 
Melons. —Late plants on which the fruit is swelling will need 
liberal treatment. Overcropping is the greatest drawback to size and 
quality, therefore thin the fruits to three or four on a plant according 
to their vigour, and feed liberally with liquid manure, giving thorough 
supplies when needed, but only then, as over-watering is a great evil. 
The house must be damped in the morning and afternoon, closing early 
with a temperature of 90“ from sun heat. The day temperature with 
sun may be 80° to 85°, and 70“ to 75“ artificially, night temperature 70°, 
falling through the night to C5° by morning. Place supports to the 
fruit in good time. Keep the growths rather closely stopped and well 
thinned out, so as to expose the principal foliage and the fruit to the sun. 
Plants ripening their fruit should have a circulation of dry warm air, 
and kept rather dry at the roots, yet not so as to cause the foliage to flag. 
Melons in Unheated Pits and Frames .—The exceptionally fine weather 
has been very conducive to the swelling and ripening of the late crops. 
Water rnust now be used sparingly, but should the necessity arise for 
its application let it be given in the early part of a fine day without 
wetting the foliage more than can be helped, and admit air freely so as 
to dry up superfluous moisture before closing time. Close early with 
plenty of sun heat, and ventilate again about an inch or so at the back 
before night, especially in dull weather. Keep the growths well thinned 
out, and expose the fruit well to the sun, stopping closely. If canker 
appears on the stems rub quicklime well into the affected parts. 
Cucumbers.— The treatment of plants recently planted must, in a 
great measure, be regulated in accordance with the time they are ex¬ 
pected to produce fruit. If a supply of fruit be wanted as soon as 
}iossible, early stopping must be practised, or at the second or third wire 
r>f the trellis, which will result in fruit-producing shoots ; but in most 
establishments the object is to get the fruit in time only to succeed those 
grown in frames, in which case the plants should not be stopped untd 
they have reached two-thirds the width of the trellis, and all the young 
f uits as well as male blossoms removed as they show, in which case 
they will break regularly from every joint, and the laterals may nearly 
be allowed to meet before they are stopped. This concentrates all the 
energies into the development of wood and foliage, so that the plants at 
a given period are capable of producing and sustaining a succession of 
fruit during the winter and early spring months. Water somewhat 
sparingly at the roots until the plants have become well established, with 
plenty of active feeders permeating the soil in all directions. Keep the 
night temperature at 70°, falling to G5“ or G0° on cold nights by morning, 
70° to 75“ by day from artificial heat, and 10° to 15“ more from snn. 
Ventilate early and liberally on all favourable occasions, but avoid 
drying currents, the object being to secure a sturdy well-solidified growth, 
which is not only the most healthful but the most fruitful. 
Pines. —Plants of Queens and other kinds which are intended to give 
a supply of ripe fruit about next May or June should by this time have 
developed a good sturdy growth, and have quite filled their pota with 
roots. In this state it is necessary to pay the utmost attention to the 
watering, so as to maintain unimpaired the vigorous habit which they 
have acquired. In doing this it must be borne in mind that since the 
soil has become permeated with roots, that much of its qualities must 
have been taken up. To make up for this loss it will be therefore neces¬ 
sary to administer stimulants, than which none answers better than 
genuine guano, 1 lb. to 20 gallons of water, which should be used clear 
and in a tepid state. The maturation of the plants will be assisted by a 
liberal supply of air whenever sunshine and heat prevail to an extent to 
admit of its being afforded, and do not keep the atmosphere of the house 
too densely charged with moisture. Syringing the plants, however, 
should be continued two or three times a week during dry or very fine 
weather, less at other times, as may he ascertained by an examination of 
the axils of the leaves, which should not be allowed to remain dry. No 
suckers should be allowed to remain on these plants until the fruit makes 
its appearance, when one, or at most two, may be left for perpetuating 
the stock. 
Successional plants, which are not so much advanced in growth, and 
are required to fruit subsequently to the preceding, should have every 
encouragement during the current month to make growth, as sun heat is 
generally available and effective. Use no fire heat at all to these plants 
unless the temperature falls below G0° at night, and be careful to utilise 
sun heat at the time of closing the house in the afternoon. This should 
be done so as to enclose a heat of 90“ to 95°, affording at the same time 
the customary moisture which is needed to produce vigorous growth. 
Fruiting plants should have as much sun heat as possible, closing 
early so as to secure a temperature of 90“ to 95°, sprinkling the floors or 
plants according to the condition of the fruit to secure a genial condition 
of the atmosphere. The night temperature should be maintained at 70“ 
to 75“, 10“ to 15° more through the day from sun heat. Excepting in the 
case of plants with fruit near to the glass shading should now be 
discontinued. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Azaleas .—Plants that have set their flower buds and need tying or 
training should be attended to without further delay. This operation is 
often unduly delayed and looked upon as winter work when very little 
else can be done. This is a mistake, for when tying is done late in the 
season the foliage never turns again to the light. In addition to this 
many of the flower buds point inwards instead of outwards, which is 
obviously undesirable. If the tying is done at once the flowers and 
foliage have ample time to turn out naturally, and the plants have a neat 
finished appearance during the winter whether they are in flower or not. 
Before they are tied examine them carefully, and if any thrips exist upon 
them it must be eradicated by washing the plants with a solution 
previously recommended. If these insects are allowed to remain upon 
the plants they give endless trouble and annoyance when introduced into 
heat. Plants that have been in their pots for a number of years should 
not be neglected as regards feeding now that their buds are swelling. It 
is surprising how greatly two or three applications of artificial manure to 
the surface at intervals of a few weeks assist them in developing their 
buds and retaining the foliage during the winter months. Judicious care 
is needed in watering. If showery weather or heavy rains continue 
provision must be made for housing the plants, as it is much better to do 
this a little earlier in the season than allow them to become saturated 
before being taken indoors. Those required for very e.arly flowering will 
be better indoors, for their buds will swell more rapidly under glass than 
outside after this date. 
Camellias .—All permanent plants indoors should now be examined 
and cleaned if they need it. If work of this description is delayed too 
long there is the danger of destroying many of the flower buds. In 
smoky neighbourhoods, even if the plants are perfectly free from scale 
and other insects, it is a good plan to wash them with petroleum at the 
rate of 1 oz. to a gallon and a half of water. This if syringed upon eve^ 
portion of the plants thoroughly in the manner advised many times in 
these pages, it will not do the slightest injury, but well loosen the soot 
that may have become deposited on the leaves and branches. The day 
following this operation the plants should be forcibly syringed. Thia 
will remove all the refuse, and the foliage will have a bright glossy 
appearance. When the plants are shaded from the sun after the oil has 
been used, instead of proving in any way injurious, it is as good as an 
application of artificial manure to the plants. Any shading material that 
may have been used to protect the plants from strong sun during the 
summer should now be gradually removed. Syringing once or twice 
daily should still be persisted in, and the supply of water to the roots 
should be liberal. Feeding if needed should also be attended to from 
time to time if the soil is poor or exhausted, for in no stage do Camellias 
need assistance more than when the flower buds are swelling. Plants 
that have been standing outside may be housed, but the greatest care 
must be taken that they receive no check by removing them indoors, or 
the buds may fall. 
