September 11, 1884, ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
253 
is suitable; as they get stronger the peat may be substituted by very sweet 
much-decayed manure. The resting tubers may be started in a cool stove 
in the spring, and in the summer the plants may be grown in a pit, 
frame, or greenhouse. Further details of culture will be given in a future 
issue. 
Cucumber Stems Splitting {Fred). —We do not consider the insects the 
cause of the evil, but after the stems divided they would probably decay the 
more quickly by being infested in the manner described. Have your plants 
had sufficient heat, bottom heat especially? We suspect not, and we also 
think they have had soil too rich and too light. In that case the leaves 
would not be able to elaborate the sap that was supplied, and a rupturing 
of the tissue would occur. Still by all means exterminate the insects if 
possible by clearing everything out of the house and syringing every part 
well with petroleum. Syringing with a mixture of soft-soap and petroleum 
now at the strength of half a wineglassful of the oil to a gallon of soapy 
water would not, we think, injure the plants if the syringing were done 
towards evening, shading the next day if sunny ; but the oil must be well 
incorporated in the soapy water by violent agitation. Try the effect on a 
plant or a portion of a plant at first, and act accordingly. 
Exhibiting—Definition of Terms {Wm. II. Pigott). —The judges that 
awarded the prize to your collection of plants, consisting of a Brugmansia, 
Abutilon, Zonal Pelargonium, and three Begonias, “ totally distinct va¬ 
rieties,” in a class “ for the best collection of plants in flower in pots, six 
varieties,” acted in strict conformity with the terms of the schedule. Had 
the terms “ distinct species” or six “kinds or genera” of plants been 
employed in the schedule the case would have been different. Suppose 
you exhibited in a class of “ three Begonias, distinct varieties,” say Vesuvius, 
Monarch, and John Laing, no one could question their eligibility, simply 
because they could be varieties and be distinct; and if they were staged with 
three other plants the Begonias would obviously remain “ distinct varieties.” 
The judges were quite right, and the “authority” who contravenes their 
decision on the grounds indicated is undoubtedly wrong in this matter. 
Pruning Marechal Niel Rose (J. P.).—If you cut out such of the old 
wood and wiry-looking growths that you can and secure the young growths 
of this year to the wall, or at least as many as are required and which are 
conveniently placed for that purpose, you will probably have many more 
flowers next year than if you allow the tree to continue in its present wild 
and neglected state. The pruning may be done at once, yet thoughtfully 
and carefully, and the less the foliage of the growths to be retained is broken 
the better will be growth and finer the blooms next year. 
Various {H. G.). —The Inula to which you refer is a hardy perennial, and 
may be raised from seeds, but is usually propagated by cuttings. We are not 
able to saj' whence you can obtain plants ; but as the firm you name 
promised to send it you will perhaps receive it in due time. We are 
surprised you could not procure the hardy border Geraniums. You perhaps 
did not make yourself understood. Plants cannot be had by anyone from 
botanic gardens, and it would not be right for persons to apply for them from 
those establishments. We quite agree with you that writers when referring 
to little-known plants should describe the method of propagation. 
Seedling Adiantum {H. Henderson). —It is not easy to determine the 
true character of a Fern from a couple of fronds. If you have or know 
Adiantum gracillimum and are satisfied yoirr seedling is quite distinct 
from that, you will do well to show a plant to some good nurseryman. 
Judging from the examples before us we are not prepared to say your 
plant is not a good form of A. gracillimum. 
Planting Shrubs {J. H. C.). —The distances between the shrubs will 
afford space for development; and if you plant white Lilies (Lilium candi- 
dum) amongst them and Gladioli brenchleyensis, your border will be 
rendered additionally attractive. If you wish to form a screen from the 
street the Berberis (Mahonia, we suspect) will be long in attaining the 
requisite height, and so would the Aucuba. The Privet we consider would 
be better at the back, and the Berberis in front. The “ japonica,” we 
presume, is Pyrus japonica, which does not make a free-flowering bush in 
all soils and gardens so far north. If it does so, however, in adjoining 
gardens you may plant it; and the Cotoneaster is often of tediously slow 
growth. We should have a Golden and Silver Queen Holly in the group, 
also Hodgin’s Holly (Ilex Hodginsi), than which no evergreen thrives 
better in towns. 
Making Asparagus Bed {Old Subscriber). —The best method depends 
entirely on the soil of the garden, and of this you say nothing. On this 
subject we cite from Messrs. Sutton’s excellent wmrk on the “ Cultivation 
of Vegetables and Flowers —“ The routine cultivation of Asparagus must 
begin with a thoroughly good preparation of the ground. To be well 
drained is a matter of the first importance, for stagnant water in the sub¬ 
soil is deadly to the plant. But a good loam does not need the extravagant 
manuring that has been recommended and practised for this purpose ; a 
deep digging, and, if the subsoil is good, a thorough trenching may be 
recommended, but an average manuring will suffice, because Asparagus can 
be effectually aided by annual top-dressings, and proper surface culture is 
of great importance in the subsequent stages. The plantation must be in 
an open spot. The preparation of the ground should commence in the 
autumn, and be continued through the winter, a heavy dressing of half- 
rotten stable dung being put on in the first instance and trenched in 2 feet 
deep. In the course of a month the whole piece should be trenched back. 
If labour is at command a third trenching may be done with advantage, 
and the surface may be left ridged up until the time arrives to level it 
down for seed. It will appear that this routine is of a somewhat costly 
character, but we are supposing the plantation is to remain for years, 
making an abundant return for the first investment. But we are bound to 
Bay that a capital supply for a moderate table may be obtained by pre¬ 
paring a piece of good ground in an open situation in a quite ordinary 
manner with one good digging in winter, adding at the time some G inches 
or so of fat stable dung, and leaving it thus until the time arrives for sowing 
the seed. Then it will be well to level down and point in half-a-spade 
deep a thin coat of quite rotten dung to make a nice kindly seed-bed.” 
Orchids (C. S. B.). —The Orchids will do in the house with the tempera¬ 
ture you name, with the exception of Odontoglossum Alexandrse, and the 
summer temperature is too warm for that variety. If you have not a cooler 
position place it at the coolest end of the house. This does best in a pot in a 
mixture of peat fibre and sphagnum moss in equal proportions, with a little 
charcoal intermixed, and the surface covered with living moss. The others 
will do in baskets, but we prefer to keep all Cattleyas in pots and pans. 
They, nevertheless, do well in baskets, and you may be very successful with 
them if that system of culture would be most suitable for you. These 
should be potted in peat fibre, lumps of charcoal, and very little moss ; while 
the Oncidium will do in all moss and lumps of charcoal. We would not 
advise you to pot or basket them now, but keep them in the pots they are 
in until they commence growth during the months of February or March. 
If you would rather have them suspended from the roof place a wire round 
the pots and suspend them. The Odontoglossum does best not suspended, 
and in a winter temperature of 45° to 50°, with a rise of 5° or 10° by day. 
During the summer it requires no artificial heat, and should be kept as cool 
as possible. 
Tydaeas {Idem). —No. 1 is a Tydsea, and requires to be grown in a stove 
temperature ; the one you give will suit it exactly. Some varieties form 
underground stems or tubers, and these can be dried off after flowering 
and kept at rest for a time. Other varieties are evergreen and form no 
tubers, and if dried off they will never start again. They are perpetuated 
by cuttings. These- plants, if not placed in the pots in which they are 
intended to flower, should be so treated without delay. A mixture of 
loam and peat, one-seventh of manure, and sand, will form a compost that 
will grow them well. The pots should stand upon some moisture-holding 
material, for they grow luxuriantly in a moist atmosphere. They should 
be kept as near the glass as possible, given abundance of light, a circula¬ 
tion of air daily when favourable, but must be shaded from strong sun. 
Although Tydaeas hke a moist atmosphere they should never be syringed 
overhead, or the foliage is very liable to become spotted and injured. All 
the other specimens you sent were withered beyond recognition, except 
No. 4, which is Begonia Evansianus. 
Names of Fruits {II. J. C.). —Early Albert. {Mark Hobby). —Red 
Astrachan {Colvile Brozone). —1, Early Harvest; 2, Mere de Menage. 
Names of Plants {A. Scott). —A Gaillardia, perhaps G. picta—a peren¬ 
nial, propagated by cuttings, also obtained from seed. {Oporto). —An Orchid 
flower coming so far in a dry box without anything whatever to keep it 
fresh must necessarily be withered on arrival. We can only say it is a 
Dendrobium, the species of which can only be determined by a better speci¬ 
men. {F. G.). —1, Colchicum autumnale variegata ; 2, C. autumnale. {John 
Leiois). —Hibiscus syriacus, also known as Althrea frutex. 
COVENT GARDEN MA 
Trade quiet, prices remaining the same. 
FR 
s. d. s. d. 
Apples.J sieve 2 6 to 4 6 
Chestnuts .. .. bushel 0 0 0 0 
Cobs, Kent .. per 100 lbs. 60 0 70 0 
Currants, Red .. 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 
„ Black .. I sieve 0 0 0 0 
Figs . dozen 0 6 10 
Grapes. .. fb. 0 6 2 6 
Lemons.. .. , ..case 15 0 21 0 
s. d. s. d. 
Artichokes .. ,. dozen 2 0 to 4 0 
Beans, Kidney .. lb. 0 3 0 0 
Beet, Red .. .. dozen 10 2 0 
Broccoli.bundle 0 9 10 
Brussels Sprouts .. 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 
Cabbage.dozen 0 0 10 
Capsicums .. .. 100 1 6 2 0 
Carrots.bunch 0 3 0 4 
Cauliflowers .. .. dozen 2 0 3 0 
Celery .bundle 16 2 0 
Coleworts dcz. bunches 2 0 4 0 
Cucumbers .. .. each 0 2 0 4 
Endive.dozen 10 2 0 
Herbs .bunch 0 2 0 0 
Leeks .bunch 0 3 0 4 
'.—September IOth. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
Oranges. 
.. 100 
8 
0 to: 
12 
0 
Peacbea. 
perdoz. 
1 
0 
6 
0 
Pears, kitchen 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
,, dessert 
dozen 
1 
0 
3 
0 
Pine Apples English .. tb. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Plums . 
A sieve 
4 
0 
7 
0 
Strawberries.. 
,. lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
St. Michael Pines 
.. each 
0 
0 
0 
0 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
Lettuce. 
, dozen 
1 
0 to 
1 
6 
Mushrooms .. 
.punnet 
0 
0 
1 
6 
Mustard and Cress 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Onions. 
. bunch 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Parsley .. dozen 
bunches 
2 
0 
8 
0 
Parsnips. 
. dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Potatoes. 
. cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
,, Kidney . 
. cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Rhubarb. 
. bundle 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Salsaty. 
. bundle 
1 
0 
0 
6 
Scorzonera .. ., 
. bundle 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Shallots. 
, ..lb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Spinach. 
, bushel 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Tomatoes 
.. lb. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Turnips. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
6 
LAND TILLAGE AFTEE HAEVEST. 
{Continued from page 230.) 
“ Until you put the wet land right by drainage (and drainage ia 
the best foundation of agricultural progress), you will not succeed 
in permanently benefiting agriculture,'’ said Mr. Bailey Denton 
when before tlie Royal Commission ; and the same high authority 
has recently stated in proof that there is now an upward movement 
in agriculture, “ that the number of applications for money to be 
expended in improvements made to the General Land Drainage and 
Improvement Company since the commencement of the present 3 'ear 
has in number and amount exceeded those that were made during 
the whole of last year, and that the former have far exceeded those 
that were made in the same jieriod of time during the last four years.” 
Are home farmers keeping well to the front in this important 
