274 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 18, 1884. 
consider the appplication safe, and apply it to the remainder. We suspect it 
would act as a manure, and be a good preventive of the grubs. 
Small Figs (If. C. B .).—The very small Figs on your tree in the open 
air will be of no use whatever, as they cannot be kept fresh through the 
winter. They will, perhaps, do the tree no harm, especially if it grows 
strongly, and may either be taken off in the autumn or allowed to shrivel on 
the branches. Only incipient fruits, smaller than the smallest peas, in 
October, as a rule, remain fresh through the winter, and ripen during the 
following season on trees in the open air. 
Apricots Failing {B. C .).—As a rule Apricots do not succeed so welt 
tinder glass as Peaches do ; still, we have seen excellent crops. The Moor¬ 
park is the best variety. Do not make a large rich border ; good loam with 
a twentieth part of lime rubbish and wood ashes will be quite rich enough, 
and it need not be more than 18 inches deep and 2 feet wide for young trees. 
It should also be made firm, taking especial care that the soil is neither 
extremely dry nor excessively wet when used. Let the tree have a light 
position, training the branches thinly about a foot from the glass ; avoid 
forcing, and also sharp currents of air in spring when growth is commencing, 
yet give abundance of air on all favourable occasions, and you may hope to 
succeed in your object. The tree should be planted as soon as the leaves 
fall in the autumn ; before then if it has only to be removed from the w’all 
, to the house. See remarks on moving Peach trees in “ Work for the Week.” 
This also applies to Apricots. If a large tree is planted the border must of 
course extend as far as the roots. 
Lord Grosvenor (IF. B .).—Our correspondent writes :—“ I have sent you 
six Apples from a tree much prized. It is now about fifteen years old, and 
has always borne good crops, the last three or four years fifteen to sixteen 
pecks, although a small tree. As there are many judges who differ in opinion 
about the name I wish your judgment. It was sent to me for Hawthornden 
Fig. 46.—Apple Lord Grosvenor. 
by an old nurseryman, but the name has been long erased.” We insert this 
letter because it affords evidence of the value of the Apple, the name of 
which is given above. Lord Grosvenor has a general resemblance to Lord 
Suffield, but the fruit is more dense and heav 3 '—no small advantage—and 
trees bear heavily in a small state ; the fruit also keeps longer than that of 
Lord Suffield. It is a valuable Apple, and quite distinct from Jolly Beggar, 
with which it has been considered identical. It is important to remember 
this when trees of these varieties are ordered. 
Cucumber Leaves Withered (J. T. S .).—The condition of the leaves 
sent indicates exhaustion of the plants. They have been too dry at some 
time or other, and this under the great heat has caused a shrinking of the 
tissue, hence the innumerable w'hite specks. The presence of insects also 
suggests that the atmosphere of the house has been too dry. To keep 
Cucumber plants vigorous frequent top-dressings of rich soil are necessary, 
then with suitable moisture new roots are ever forming, and the plants 
may be kept growing strongly throughout the season. As to the Melons, 
unless you have young growths fairly starting from the older stems it will 
be of no use cutting the plants down now. If there are young growths 
remove the older parts and maintain a warm moist temperature, and you may 
perhaps get a small second crop of fruit. 
Grapes Certificated {Constant Reader ).—The following varieties have 
been certificated by the Emit Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society : 
—Alnwick Seedling, Dr. Hogg, Duke of Buccleuch, Duchess of Buccleuch, 
Golden Champion, Golden Queen, Gros Maroc, Madresfield Court, Mrs. 
Pince, Mrs. Pearson, Royal Ascot, Royal Vineyard, and Waltham Cross. 
Possibly one or two others may have been similarly honoured, but we do not 
recollect them. 
Trees and Stocks {E. P. C. B.).—We are glad to hear of your success. 
Tour proposed method of planting and subsequently thinning and trans¬ 
planting will do very well. As to the method, we should simply pursue the 
plan that has answered your expectations; we know of none more econo¬ 
mical. We are not able to assess the value of trees or stocks, but according 
to your description we do not think the prices you name excessive. We 
are not in a position to express an opinion as to the desirability of raising a 
number of tall stocks, as we do not know what the demand is ; but we know 
that many standard Apples are worked low on dwarf stocks, the trunks of 
the trees being formed by the varieties that bear the fruit. It is a mistake 
also to cut off closely all lateral growths from the stems while still young. 
A few leaves assist them to thicken considerably, as you may ascertain by 
experiment. We advise you to engage a practical man before entering 
largely on the work in question. 
The Russian Shallot (IF. D.). —It is not easy to find the origin of the 
dark-coloured variety known as the Russian Shallot. Mr. Barron, in his 
review on Shallots formed on the varieties in the Chiswick trials, observes :— 
“ As to varieties, there are two very distinct types that have long been 
cultivated in this country, and two only—viz., 1, Common. —Bulbs small or 
about the size of a walnut, 1 inch in diameter and inch in height, of 
irregular pyriform shape; the outer skin when ripe silver grey or of a dirty 
brown colour; the inner scales slightly tinged with purple, produced in tufts 
of from five to eight or ten in number. Leaves about a foot in length, pro¬ 
duced in close tufts of a bright green colour. This is the earliest variety. 2, 
Large Brown. —Bulbs nearly twice the size of the Common, being 2 inches 
in diameter and about inches high. The outer skin of a reddish brown 
colour; the inner scales or flesh tinged with deep violet or purple, fleshy. 
The bulbs produced in tufts of from three to seven or eight. The leaves 
18 inches long, not nearly so spreading as the Common, of a deep green 
colour. It had for its synonyms New Russian, Small Red, Large Red, and 
Large Russian, also Stuart & Mein’s Exhibition Shallot, which certainly 
appeared to be an extra large and fine selection. Two other varieties were 
grown and demand notice—-viz., that which is known as the Jersey Giant 
Red Shallots and the Jersey Silver-skin, the seeds of which on being sown 
the one season produce bulbs like the Onion, and which on bring planted out 
the following season produce flowers and seeds. These are biennial cha¬ 
racters similar to the Onion (Allium Cepa), and quite distinct from the 
perennial and almost seedless character of Allium ascalonicnm. These 
Jersey Shallots are in fact Onions, and of a very inferior variety.^ The 
bulbs are of a fair size, of uneven and irregular growth, being often divided 
into a number of crowns or smaller side bulbs similar to the Potato Onion. 
Some confusion seems to exist with regard to the Russian Shallot, Vilmorin 
and Thompson giving it as a synonym of the Jersey ; whilst in this country, 
and more particularly in Scotland, it is well known as a true Shallot and 
synonymous wich the Large Brown, and w'as in cultivation long antecedent 
to the so-called Jersey Shallots.” 
Figs not Ripening {Z. //., Eastbourne). —The most likely cause of the 
Figs not ripening is an excess of vigour in the tree, which we should 
counteract by root-pruning in autumn so soon as the wood becomes Arm 
and before the leaves fall. Take out a trench one-third the distance from 
the stem the tree has spread of branches, cutting off all roots and going 
down to the lowest. Remove the surface soil from the trench to the stem 
down to the roots, and pick out as much as possible from amongst them 
without injuring them, and in place of the soil removed add some good 
loam mixed with a sixth part of old mortar rubbish, fi.lling up the trench 
with the same, and ramming all very firmly. Water copiously_ when 
complete, but only once, and mulch with short manure 3 or 4 inches 
thick. Thin out the long bare shoots and leave the tree moderately thin 
of wood, so as to admit light and air, which will assist in its ripening. 
Remove all the unripe Figs larger than a horse bean in autumn, and those 
left that pass through the winter will give the crop of fruit next season. 
Give water abundantly during dry weather in summer and renew the 
mulching, or if you cannot apply the mulching afford weak liquid manure. 
You do not say upon what aspect the tree is grown. We presume south ; 
if upon any' other, the Figs not ripening may be due to that cause alone, 
there not being sufficient warmth on other aspects. 
Mushrooms Failing {J. 0.). —Many beginners in Mushroom-growing 
fail by commencing at the wrong time. June, July, and August are the 
months in which experienced growers fail to obtain a regular supply. It is 
clearly stated in “ Mushrooms for the Million ” that towards the end of 
July is the best time for beginners to collect manure, but August and 
September will do very well, as then the beds come into bearing in late 
autumn or early winter. It is impossible to expect such productive beds in 
the middle of summer as in autumn and spring, and manure should be col¬ 
lected accordingly. When this is good, rightly prepared, good spawn 
inserted, and the temperature correct Mushrooms are sure to follow. When 
the soil is sufficiently moist when used and the beds are kept covered with 
damp material little moisture can escape ; still, if they get dry they must 
be watered. Your beds have no doubt been too dry. If they are dry now 
we should give a very heavy watering, and there is a possibility that if kept 
moist they may yield well as the autumn approaches. It is a mistake to 
purchase manure for gi'owing Mushrooms at midsummer. Read carefully 
the article of “ J. H. S.” on page 232 last week, and you will find that the 
experience there recorded exactly agrees with our advice on this matter. 
Thuja occidentalis (J. 0., Monmouth). —We could not find any seeds in 
the cones ; in fact, they are not yet ripe. If any seeds are perfected you 
may readily raise a few seedlings. The seed should be preserved until 
spring, and then sown in a pan filled with any light sandy soil, and 
then placed in a cold frame or under a handlight. The seeds should b 
covered with about a quarter of an inch of soil, which, if moderately moist 
at the time of sowing, will not need water. The frame or handlight in 
which the seed pan is placed must be kept close and shaded to prevent 
evaporation until the seeds germinate, when more air and light must be 
given until the seedlings can be grown under cool conditions. You may 
readily raise young plants by inserting cuttings now in light sandy soil 
under a handlight, the surface of the soil being covered entirely with sand. 
The cuttings should be selected similar to the portion sent to us and taken 
off with a small heel where they join the wood of the previous year. They 
will be all the better if they are a little longer and stronger. The heel 
must be cut clean with a sharp knife and the side sprays removed from the 
stem of the cuttings for about 2 inches of their length. These cuttings should 
be inserted thickly together, then given a good watering. After this they 
must be kept perfectly close and shaded from bright sunshine. They will 
