September 18, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
275 
need no further attention until spring, wlien the cuttings will bo well 
callused, and the handlights can be removed occasionally during showery 
weather. As soon as the cuttings have formed roots they may be lifted and 
transplanted 6 inches apart, or, better still, they may be potted until they 
are established, and then planted out. The creeper you enclosed is Vinca 
minor. 
Storing Filberts (Subscriber ).—See that the husks are thoroughly dry 
at the base before storing. A good plan is to place them in a glazed jars, 
and paste paper or other material closely over the tops, keeping them 
where it is not damp, and where the temperature is tolerably equable—a 
dry cellar for instance. Or the jars containing them may be covered 
securely and buried in a dry situation. 
Oncidium Papilio (L. J. K .).—We think in time that your Oncidium wil^ 
flower freely enough. Place it for the winter close to the glass in a temperature 
not exceeding G0°, and give only sufficient water to keep the pseudo-bulbs fresh 
and plump; and we do not doubt that flower spikes will appear from the 
growths made, if they are strong enough, just as the plant starts into growth. 
It is better to remove the flower spikes from Orchids that are “exhausting 
themselves ” than to lose the plants. That is the best mode of recruiting their 
health. These varieties flower so freely and continuously that unless care is 
taken to afford them rest annually they soon become exhausted. We have 
nearly lost plants of 0. Kramerii through neglecting to remove the flower 
spikes. You had better do this than further, weaken your plants, and have 
to wait two or three years before they are sufliciently strong to flower again_ 
Rondeletia speciosa (Tin Box ).—The above is the name of the flower 
No. 2, which from its appearance has been badly infested with thrips. It is 
a stove plant, and will grow rapidly and luxuriantly in a moist temperature 
of 60° to 70° by night, with a rise of 10° or 15° by day from sun heat. It 
should be growm in a pot in either a mixture of peat and loam in equal 
proportions, or in alt peat and sand, the latter being preferable if the peat is 
good, as it does not turn sour so quickly. This is important, for unless this 
plant is kept in a healthy condition at the roots it will not long thrive satis¬ 
factorily. Potting should be done in spring, just after the plants show signs 
of starting into growth. The pots should be well drained, as a liberal supply 
of water is needed during the season of activity. Water must be most care¬ 
fully applied after potting until the roots are fairly active. From this stage 
the plant must be grown in a moderately light position, or the wood will not 
be sufficiently firm to flower freely. After flowering the growths must be 
thoroughly ripened, the plant kept in a temperature of 60° during the winter, 
and watered with great care. If the specimen is as large as is desired, the 
previous s ason’s wood may be well pruned back before starting the plant 
again into growth. ^ One of the great secrets of success is to keep the foliage 
free from thrips, to which it is very subject. This can be done by washing 
it thoroughly with a solution of tobacco water and softsoap, 1 oz. of the 
latter to a gallon of the former. It may also be destroyed by fumigation 
with tobacco smoke. The other plant is Solidago virgaurea. 
Plants for Stove—Vines and Plants for Greenhouse (J. T. A').—In 
addition to the Dipladenia Brearleyana as climbers we should have 
Stephanotis floribunda. Bougainvillea glabra, and Allamanda Hendersoni. 
The Clerodendron Balfourianum, along with those above named, will give 
you some of the finest of stove climbers, and they should be trained to a 
trellis 12 to 15 inches from the glass. If you could make a border along 
one side to plant them in they would do better than in pots, excepting the 
Dipladenia. In addition to Gloxinias we should have some Achimenes 
for summer flowering. Tabernffimontana coronaria fl.-pl. is very sweet and 
not unlike a Gardenia, flowering in early summer ; but we should have 
most plants in pots for winter flowering, such as Begonia insignis, B. 
fuchsioides, B. semperflorens grandiflora, B. Ingrami, B. Saundersiana, 
Poinsettia pulcherrima, Euphoibia jacquinimflora, Euphorbia spltndens, 
Centropogon Lucyanus, Centradenia rosea, Thyrsacanthus rutilans, 
Epiphyllums, &c. The Gardenias now setting their buds will not flower 
until spring unless you give them moist heat, 70° to 75°, and feed liberally 
so as to incite growth. That we do not advise, for though w'e have them 
the year round ours are grown in a house to themselves. It is best in an 
ordinary stove to be content with the flowers in late spring or early 
summer. Do not entirely withhold water from the Clerodendron, but only 
give sufficient to prevent severe flagging. Keep the soil dry through the 
winter, and give water again in February or early March. The wood when 
the plant is at rest must not be allowed to shrivel, and do not re-pot until 
after flowering. In the greenhouse, besides Zonal Pelargoniums you ought 
to have Fuchsias, Tuberous-rooted Begonias, Show Pelargoniums, which 
are fine for summer, and Primulas in winter, with bulbs and such plants 
for introducing after the new year as Hoteia japonica, Deutzia gracilis. 
Dielytra spectabilis, Lily of the Valley, itc. These would make your house 
gay in spring, and you might have a couple of Camellias with some Indian 
Azaleas. Cinerarias ought not be omitted, nor yet Calceolarias. You could 
^ow Grapes fairly well in the house, planting in the inside border, and 3 feet 
in width would answer if you feed the roots liberally. One Vine would do, 
but we should have tw'o—a black and a white—and train to the roof, having 
a trellis 16 inches from the glass and a single rod from each, so as to allow 
of the plants receiving light; also the Hoses on the back wall, which, if 
the roof were very much shaded, would not do very well. Camellias 
would succeed admirably beneath the Vines, and would do better on the 
back wall than the Roses; but you may prefer the latter, and the Camellias 
would do well in pots. Plant one Vine at each end of the border, which must 
be well drained, turfy loam, with a tenth of lime rubbish and a sprinkling 
of crushed bones being a suitable compost, the border being about 2 feet 
deep, and having a foot of rubble under for drainage. The best kinds of 
Grapes for your purpose w'ould be Black Hamburgh and Foster’s Seedling. 
If you prefer one have the former. 
Grapes Cracked (J. P. A., Cornwall ).—This is not a case of cracking 
alone. In the first place, the setting was imperfect, the house having pos¬ 
sibly been too moist when the Vines were flowering, and the pollen conse¬ 
quently was not freely distributed. Subsequently, we suspect, the atmosphere 
of the house was too dry, and possibly the border also ; certainly the Grapes 
ceased swelling and the cuticle lost its expansive property ; then when rain 
came in the autumn, or water was given, the influx of sap ruptured the 
berries. We also suspect the house has been kept too cold and damp at 
night, and possibly the ventilators have not been always opened sufficiently 
early in the morning, otherwise mildew would not be so pronounced on the 
fruit. _ Your letter contains no data to enable us to form an opinion as to the 
condition of the Vines. They may be old and enfeebled, or the growths far 
too much crowded. They should be so disposed that every leaf is fully 
exposed to the light, and the foliage must be kept free from insects, which 
may not be the case at present; also, active roots should be pr. sent near the 
surface of the border. If they are not some of the soil should be removed, 
and fresh loam with a liberal admixture of w’ood ash's placed in contact 
with the roots, and on the soil a thick covering of manure which should 
remain to decay. With free root-action in good soil, stout, clean, thinly 
disposed foliage, and a genial buoyant atmosphere maintained, with a night 
temperature of 60° to 65° during the growing season, an increase of 5° in the 
day without sun and 15° with it, opening the ventilators early in the morning 
and closing early in the afternoon until the fruit colours, then admitting air 
night and day freely, yet judiciously, healthy Vines and good Grapes may 
be produced. We shall be gl.ad if we can assist you further if you like to 
make us acquainted with the history and condition of the Vines, indicating 
also the treatment to which they have been subjected. 
Parcels.—In Dr. Hogg’s absence from this office, which will extend over 
a few weeks, parcels addressed to him cannot be attended to; nor can any 
parcels be forwarded to him. See notification at the head of this column. 
Names of Fruits (H. W.). —Unless numbers are attached to the fruit they 
are certain to be displaced in transit. We can only say the striped Apple is 
the Nonesuch, and the flattish red fruit Fearn’s Pippin. (A. I).). —If 
you desire the Apple to be examined again you must send good typical 
specimens. 
Names of Plants (C. 0.). — 1, Euonymus europmus ; 2, Hibiscus 
syriacus variegatus. (Sutton ).—Helianthusdecapetalu.a. {J.Ji. —Crinum 
capense ; hardy if planted in a ivarm border. (F. II. D. E.). —Staphylea 
pinnata, the Bladder Nut. (J. M.). —The floiver is Lysimachia vulgaris. 
The Apples are not w^ell-developed typical specimens, and we cannot name 
them. (A. Cole). —We have no recollection of receiving the flower alluded 
to ; can you send another specimen ? 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— September 17th. 
A GOOD supply of Cobs, but clearing at reduced prices. Trade dull generally. 
FRUIT. 
s. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
Apples. 
i sieve 
2 
6 
to 4 
6 
Oranges. 
.. 100 
8 
0 to 12 
0 
Chestnuts 
bushel 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches . 
perdoz. 
3 
0 
8 
0 
Cobs, Kent .. per 
100 lbs. 
50 
0 
60 
0 
Pears, kitchen 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Currants, Red .. 
A sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
,, dessert 
dozen 
1 
0 
3 
0 
„ Black .. 
1 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples English., lb. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Figs . 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Plums . 
A sieve 
4 
0 
7 
0 
Grapes. 
0 
6 
2 
6 
Strawberries.. 
.. lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Lemons. 
•, case 
IS 
0 
21 
0 
St. Michael Pines 
.. each 
0 
0 
0 
0 
VEGETABLES 
8. 
d. 
s. d. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
Artichokes ,. .. 
dozen 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Lettuce. 
dozen 
1 
0 to 
1 
P 
Beans, Kidney 
tb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Mushrooms .. 
punnet 
0 
0 
1 
6 
Beet.jled 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Mustard and Cress 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Onions. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Brussels Sprouts .. 
^ sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Parsley .. dozen bunches 
2 
0 
s 
0 
Cabbage . 
dozen 
0 
0 
1 
0 
Parsnips. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Capsicums .. .. 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Potatoes. 
cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Carrots. 
bunch 
0 
S 
0 
4 
,, Kidney . 
. cwt. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Cauliflowers .. .. 
dozen 
2 
0 
S 
0 
Rhubarb. 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Celery . 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Salsafy. 
bundle 
1 
0 
0 
« 
Coleworts dcz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzonera .. . 
bundle 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Cucumbers .. .. 
each 
0 
2 
0 
4 
Shallots. 
.. lb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Endive. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Spinach. 
bushel 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Herbs . 
bunch 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes .. .. 
.. lb. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Leeks . 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Turnips. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
6 
LAND TILLAGE AFTER HARVEST. 
(Continued from page 254.) 
DRAINING LAND. 
Soils are so different that the general adoption of a common 
depth for drains is clearly impracticable. Desirable as it is to make 
them 4 feet deep, yet to do this in a heavy clay, which is put back 
upon the pipes and settles down into a dense mass almost impervious 
to water, is to court failure. Two feet of hard rubble over the pipes 
would make the drains perfect, but it would add so materially to the 
expense as to be im])racticable. Compact little faggots of White 
or Black Thorn are often put upon the pipes and covered with soil. 
This answers tolerably w'ell for a time, but ivith the decay of the 
wood the action of the drains becomes slower and less efficient. The 
best plan would be to burn the whole of the clay excavated from 
the trenches before putting it back, to make the drains 5 or 6 feet 
closer than usual, and then all would have been done for it that is 
possible by mere drainage. We have then only to impart thorough 
mechanical division to the soil, and we shall then, and not till then 
have brought it into a suitable condition to be rendered fertile and 
