5.94 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 25, 1834. 
dibbled into cool frames for use when the weather is very severe in winter; 
0 inches from plant to plant is a good distance to put them in. Do not 
place lights over them so long as the weather is mild. Where no frames 
exist for such things plant them out near a south wall or any place 
where they will get all the sun and be sheltered from frost. Tie up some 
of the earliest Endive to blanch. 
Frames .—Clear as many of these as possible, have the lights washed 
and repaired if necessary, and place them where they will be convenient 
for the reception of any tender vegetables during severe weather. 
Late Potatoes .—So long as the weather is favourable these should 
be dug up and stored ; not many of the stems are green now, and 
nothing is gained by leaving the tubers in the ground after they are 
ripe. Indeed, wet weather comes before they are stored it will be a diffi¬ 
cult matter to get them stored advantageously. 
Kidney Beans .—Where these are desired as late as possible every one 
of the old pods should be gathered, and the late ones or those still in 
bloom will soon swell and be of the greatest use in October, and perhaps 
even in November. 
Autumn Cabbage Plants .—Make up aU blanks in those planted some 
time ago, and where the stock is deficient plant more at once, putting in 
a good batch of the best plants in good soil. 
Cauliflon'crs. — Where many heads are forming together cut the 
surplus before they become too old, and store them in a dry place with 
their ends in damp soil, sand, or sawdust. Take up the best of the young 
plants sown this autumn and dibble them into handlights, frames, or 
sheltered positions to stand the winter. Last autumn we planted some 
rows of Cauliflowers with our autumn Cabbage, and they stood the test 
equally well as the Cabbages, but then we had little frost. 
Tomatoes .—This is a splendid autumn for Tomatoes, as they are ripen¬ 
ing well in the open air, and where many of them are grown they will be 
coming in too fast for present consumption, but when this is the case 
they may be very profitably converted into sauce for winter use. Cuttings 
of the most fruitful varieties should be inserted singly in thumb pots at 
once and rooted under glass for fruiting plants in winter. The outdoor 
fruits may be made to meet all demands until Christmas, then those plants 
being rooted now should be bearing. 
Dwarf Kidney Beans .—These should be sown on slight hotbe ls or in 
warm pits for fruiting in two months hence. Good soil 6 inches deep 
will grow them. Sow thin, and do not coddle the plants too early with 
unnecessary protection. 
Bracken and other materials used as winter protectors in severe 
weather should be collected and stored safely in a perfectly dry state. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Vines. —Early House .—To have new Grapes ready for cutting by 
the end. of April or beginning of May the Vines should now be pruned, 
washed, and dressed as early as possible, preparing for closing the house 
the last week in November. If the houses have been kept free from 
red spider and other insects a good washing with warm soapy water or 
some approved insecticide will be found sufficient, as healthy Vines 
are sometimes ruined by the practice of scraping, scrubbing, and dressing 
where there is no necessity for it. The most troublesome insect to 
contend with is mealy bug, which sometimes obtains a footing on Vines, 
being introduced by plants infested with it, and is somewhat difficult 
to get rid of, especially when it obtains a hold on old Vines. Much may 
be done by thoroughly cleansing the house and Vines, and afterwards 
deal with the enemy through the spring and summer, when every insect 
that has escaped the winter dressing should be destroyed by the applica¬ 
tion of methylated spirits before it has time to move away from the 
position in which it has spent the winter or resting period. The best 
remedy, however, for mealy bug is to syringe the house and Vines 
thoroughly before pruning with petroleum, a wineglassful to three 
gallons of water, kept briskly stirred whilst it is being applied, and repeat 
after pruning. It should also be repeated at the time the house is closed 
for forcing. If not already done, advantage should be taken of the fine 
weather for getting all outside borders put in order by thoroughly 
clearing them of old mulching and inert soil quite down to the surface 
roots, and top-dressing with new compost of rough turfy loam, charred 
garden refuse, and a twentieth part of bone dust, thoroughly mixed and 
used in a dry state. Beat firmly with the back of a steel fork, and cover 
with 3 or I inches of fresh stable litter for the present. Let the borders 
have the benefit of all the rain that falls up to the end of October, and 
increase the covering in time to protect from frost and snow. 
Late Grapes .—These should now be well coloured, and although they 
may be ripe enough for exhibition they will require a considerable time 
on the Vines before they are fit for removal to the Grape-room, and a 
longer period alter they are cut to bring them into the best possible 
condition for dessert. Up to the present a good covering of foliage has 
been favourable to the colouring process in the case of such varieties 
as Lady Downe’s, Black Morocco, Gros Colman, and other black Grapes ; 
but now daylight is almost counterbalanced by darkness, and nights are 
getting cold, all lateral growths should be removed to admit of a free 
circulation of dry warm air through the bunches and amongst the leaves, 
which should be kept clear of the glass to prevent the retention of 
moisture by night as well as by day. Where Hamburghs are now ready 
for cutting they will keep up the supply until the Alicantes come into 
use from November to January, when the Gros Colman should lead to Lady 
Downe’s, the best keeping Grape up to May. In order to have Gros 
Colman in the finest condition the Grapes should be cut when the Vines 
are quite clear of leaves, bottled, and kept in a warm Grape-room for a 
month or six weeks, and sufficiently dry to prevent the fleshy stalks 
and shoulders damping. This will take from them the earthy flavour ; 
indeed by this process they will be fitted for the choicest dessert from 
January to March. 
Melons. —The present month in most places will bring the Melon 
season to a close; indeed, after September Melons are not of much 
account, being watery and deficient in flavour. Much, however, depends 
on the weather during October. Plants that are now swelling their fruits 
will need a night temperature of 70°, falling to 65° in the morning, 70° to 
75° by day artificially, and 10° to 15° rise from sun heat. The shoots 
should be kept well thinned, the laterals stopped, and the fruits fully 
exposed to the influence of the sun. Where the fruits are approaching 
maturity a little ventilation should be left on at night, and a dry warm 
atmosphere secured, keeping the plants somewhat dry at the roots, but 
not to the extent of flagging. 
Cucumbers. —Plants in full bearing should have a top-dressing of 
three parts light loam and one part well-decomposed manure, after which, 
if they are dry at the roots, water with tepid clear water, as it is not 
advisable to apply liquid manure until the roots have pushed well into the 
new soil, whiffi they will do quickly. Attend frequently to stopping, 
thinning, regulating, and tying the shoots, as neglect in these respects is 
the forerunner of disaster. Maintain a genial temperature of 70° to 75° 
from fire heat through the day an i 75° to 85° with sun, closing early— 
from two to three o’clock, according to the weather, and so as to raise the 
temperature to 90°, the night temperature being maintained at 65° to 70°. 
Ventilate freely on all favourable occasions seedlings, to secure a sturdy 
growth and thick-textured foliage. Syringe the plants twice on fine 
days, but in dull weather damping will be sufficient. Young plants which 
have some time since been put in their fruiting quarters will be the better 
for having some soil placed to the sides of the ridges or hillocks in suffi¬ 
cient quantity to cover the young roots as they push through the soil. 
Plants in frames wiU require to have the linings made up weekly or fort¬ 
nightly according to the state of the weather. Ventilate early in the day, 
and make the most of sun heat by early closing. It is advisable when the 
linings are brisk in heat to ventilate a little at the back at night by tilting 
the lights. This will prevent any damage from rank steam, and a cover¬ 
ing of mats should be placed over the lights at night. Keep the growths well 
thinned, remove decayed leaves as they appear, and stop the shoots a joint 
beyond the fruit. If the plants are to continue in bearing a time louger 
they must not be overcropped, and none must remain on after the fruit 
attains a size fit for use. They will keep a considerable time if the heel 
ends of the fruits are placed in saucers filled with clear rain water. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Euphorbia jacquinicejlora .—Plants that have been in cold frames up 
to the present time must be removed to a house or pit where the atmo¬ 
sphere can be drier at night, and the temperature at about 55°. If lefc 
in cold frames after this date the foliage is very liable to turn yellow, 
especially if too much water is given at the roots. If removed to a 
heated structure care must be taken that the plants are not excited 
again into growth, or they will soon become tall and weak, and in the 
end flower but poorly. To avoid this no artificial heat will be needed 
for some weeks yet during the day, and only at night when the tem¬ 
perature is likely to fall too low. On all favourable occasions air should 
be liberally admitted during the day as well as at night. If the pots 
are full of roots stimulants may be given in a weak state every time 
water is applied, nothing being better for these plants than liquid made 
from cow manure and clear soot water. If the plants display any signs 
of starting into growth feeding must be discontinued for a time, at least 
until this tendency is checked. 
Poinsettias .—The advice given respecting Euphorbias applies with 
equal force to these plants, for if they are starved the roots soon cease 
action, and the foliage turns yellow and eventually falls. As soon as 
the early batch has finished growth and commenced to form their bracts 
they may be assisted to develope in a night temperature of 65°. The 
beautiful scarlet bracts of these plants are always larger in size and 
brighter in colour when developed in brisk heat than when they are 
kept in too low a temperature. The latest plants that are now in 3-inch 
pots may be transferred into others 2 inches larger. They should be 
potted firmly in good loam, one-seventh of manure and sand, and after¬ 
wards grown close to the glass in an intermediate temperature. 
Cyclamens .—The earliest plants will now have quantities of flower 
buds nestling close at the base of the foliage, and if great care is not 
taken they are very liable to damp in cold frames, especially in low 
damp localities. If they are in a backward condition they may be placed 
on a shelf in a house or pit where the atmosphere can be kept a little 
drier, and if fully exposed to the sun they will come forward faster than 
in cold frames. If sufficiently forward they may be kept from damping 
in frames, provided they are watered and ventilated judiciously, the 
plants being elevated on pots close to the glass. Stimulants should be 
supplied every time water is needed, morning being the best time. 
Abundance of air must be admitted to the plants, whether large or small, 
or the foliage will soon draw up weakly. Plants intended for late spring 
flowering should, if they need more root room, be shifted at once, so that 
they will have ample time to root into the new soil and become estab¬ 
lished before winter. 
Clematises .—Those of the Lady Londesborough type that are required 
for early forcing, and have been standing outside during the summer, 
will now need attention. They should be turned out of their pots in 
order to ascertain if the drainage is in good woiking order; if not, fresh 
shoulddoe supplied. If the pots are well crowded with roots and in pots 
sufficiently large as much soil as possible should be removed from the 
