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JOURNAL OF HORTiaULlURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 2, 1884. 
Zauschneria CALiPOENiCA.— A near relative of theFuclisias 
flowering during late summer and autumn, and being very easy 
to cultivate, it is rather curious that it is not more frequently 
met with in our gardens, being very useful as a pot plant for the 
decoration of the conservatory during the slight gap which exists 
just before the Chrysanthemums enliven what is sometimes 
called the month of suicides. Cuttings should be struck in a 
cool frame late in spring, and the plants pushed forward in light 
rich soil, with an occasional supply of liquid manure, when they 
will form handsome little bushes without tying in 5-inch pots. 
Jt must be distinctly understood that the plant is quite hardy, 
except in very cold and heavy soils, and that grown in the open 
border it produces quantities of flowers until the severe frosts 
set in. The flowers, which individually are drooping, are borne 
in a loose erect spike, colour a bright scarlet. Unlike most 
flowers the petals are small and comparatively inconspicuous, 
while the calyx is highly coloured, of a funnel shape, and without 
close inspection would be taken for the corolla. The leaves are 
linear lanceolate, the upper ones ovate, acute, small, placed 
alternately. A native of California. May be propagated by 
seed or division as well as by cuttings.—G-. Guthrie. 
A CHEAP PLANT AND CUCUMBER PIT. 
Would it be asking too much for you to give dimensions and 
arrangements internally, heating, &c., of a handy little span-roof plant 
stove, say 20 or 25 feet long, 10 or 12 feet wide, with a division, so that 
Melons and Cucumbers could be grown in one part if desired ? The floor 
could be sunk 2 feet or so. The position is open. Would it be desirable 
to have ends of house north and south, or east and west ? and what 
would probable outside cost be 1 —D, Hardy. 
[We are not aware that we can reply to the above letter more usefully 
than by reproducing a simple plan and explanatory article that was 
prepared by our able correspondent, Mr. Inglis, a few years ago. Such 
a pit we should prefer to stand with the ends north and south, but we 
do not consider the point very material. It is impossible to give 
estimates of cost ; these can be obtained from horticultural builders or 
tradesmen. Mr. Inglis states:—“In the erection of pits, the conserva¬ 
tion of heat by the means of ‘ mother earth ’ is very often under¬ 
estimated, if not ignored altogether. I think there is nothing that we 
•can do with more advantage to our plants than endeavour to have them 
rather under ground than above it. The further a house or pit is raised 
above ground the more it catches the bitter blast in winter. The roof 
we must have exposed ; but why have the walls also exposed, when they 
can be built for less money, and heated at less cost afterwards, by having 
nothing exposed to the elements but the glass roof ? And not only is 
it of advantage in heating in winter, but it is of great advantage in the 
maintenance of more genial moist atmosphere in hot dry weather in 
summer, as everyone can testify who has had experience of such pits, 
or given the thing serious consideration. For a range of useful pits 
I would suggest something like what is represented in the accompanying 
section. Supposing a a to be the ground-line, mark off and level the 
soil where the outside walls are to be, and ram it hard so that there is 
no chance of its sinking. On this build your outside walls, placing at 
iritervals of 6 or 8 feet under the wall a right-angle elbow 3-inch sanitary 
pipe, socket end up, as shown at i b. By placing three bricks on edge 
round its end, and breaking off the end of the brick just above this pipe, 
a connection with the inside of the pit is secured. Another pipe, placed 
in the socket at b, will rise above the eaves of the pit; and to prevent 
wet entering, a tin or zinc cover can be supported 3 inches above the 
pipe by three pieces of stout wire, to fit inside the sockets. These will 
form ventilators, which may in most cases be left open, except in severe 
weather ; but when desirable to have them at command, a small shutter 
to each inside can easily be applied. When the mortar is sufficiently 
set, the spaces between the walls d d and also e e may be filled up with 
the soil excavated for a footpath c, building a wall on each side in the 
usual way. The space between the pits should be in the form of a 
gutter, asphalted, and made to carry the water to tanks inside the pits. 
These gutters should be 1$ inches or 2 feet wide, and if the ventilators 
are placed alternately there will be plenty of room for cleaning out, 
attending to shading in summer, or applying mats or other coverings in 
the winter. A drain-pipe under the ashes in the beds will carry part of 
the water (otherwise wasted) back to the tanks. The inside arrangement 
of this pit is specially adapted to the growing of decorative plants of 
dwarf growth, such as Cyclamens, Primulas, Cinerarias, Bouvardias, 
Achimenes, Begonias, Poinsettias, and dozens of other plants, which will 
do far better than in houses of any other description. But with a little 
modification of the arrangements it can be made equally suitable for 
propagating, forcing winter-flowering plants, growing pot Vines, Melons, 
Cucumbers, Tomatoes, &c. 
“ The great objection to these sunken pits is the necessity of having 
steps down to the doorways. This, however, is not always necessary. 
If they are built on sloping ground they may be so arranged as to be 
wholly under ground, except the ends in which the doors are placed. In 
such a case the end walls would have to be built first, the mean height of 
the soil ascertained and levelled in the same way as you would form a 
terrace, and upon this level, properly consolidated, commence to build as 
on level ground. In building a number of such pits a large tank should 
occupy the opposite end to the door, and these should not only be con¬ 
nected with each other, but should be made one tank, so that the water 
will run direct from the gutter into it. In every such tank a flow-and- 
return hot-water pipe should be placed, for the use of cold water in 
watering plants works untold mischief wherever it is applied in heated 
structures.”] 
NOTES ON DAHLIAS. 
Many readers of your valuable Journal, speaking of your report of the 
Great National Dahlia Show, have written me, asking information re¬ 
specting the cultivation of the flower. 
I am truly delighted to find the great success of our Show on the 
5th and 6th inst. has given a fresh stimulus to many who from their 
remarks are desirous to commence the cultivation of this noble flower. 
The formation of the above Society was for this very object, and I think 
the Committee have good reason to hope their labour has not been in vain. 
To answer all letters is more than I can undertake, and I trust your 
insertion of the enclosed will be taken as a wish on my part to withhold 
nothing I have gathered from its successful cultivation for many years. 
Dahlias, I find, have three great wants to commence with, which must be 
strictly attended to. First, plenty of air ; second, plenty of loam ; third, 
plenty of water, supplied at such times and in such quantities they may 
require. 
Many questions are asked regards planting, soil, disbudding, length of 
time required before the flower is fit for showing, and many others. I am 
pleased to have these questions put ; it shows a strong desire on the part 
of those asking to possess a sound foundation to start upon. I reply I 
only know of one of the successful means whereby the above results can 
be obtained—that is “ Practical Experience.” The difference of soil, 
situation, and changeable climate prevent any definite rule being laid 
down. Besides, we have enemies abroad, which must be diligently sought 
for and destroyed. 
Those who are bent upon seeing a first prize upon their stands at our 
next grand National Dahlia Show must not at times mind rising with the 
sun, nor must they ignore the light of the moon, for by its influence 
many a grand bloom has been saved from destruction. If its light is 
withdrawn use such as you have at command, and the last thing go and 
look at the face of your choicest blooms. You will often find one of the 
many enemies spoken of which in a few minutes will spoil that which has 
taken days to produce. 
I find there is so much to be said respecting our choice of plants, 
Pompon and single, that comes rushing into one’s mind, I cannot ask 
more of your valuable space, but will continue the article at another 
time, if wished.—H. G. 
[We will readily accord space for such cultural notes as we may re¬ 
ceive from a grower so skilful as we know “ H. G.” to be.] 
CHRYSANTHEMUM BENDIGO. 
..Chrysanthemum Bendigo is a bond fide sport, having originated 
from a plant that was sent me under the name of Mrs. Heale. During the 
time that I was increasing and fixing the sport I showed flowers of the 
parent at various shows, under the name of Mrs. Heale, and it was never 
challenged as being anything different. At Eastbourne I showed the 
sport for the first time, a bloom from the parent stock likewise accompanied 
it. There it was awarded a certificate by the Judges—Messrs. Cannell 
and Davis, two of our largest Chrysanthemum growers. I also sent to 
the Royal Horticultural Society a stand of six blooms, four of the sport 
and two of the stock it started from, giving it as a sport from Mrs. Heale. 
There it was also awarded a first-class certificate. Those flowers were 
shown the next day at the National Chrysanthemem Show at the West¬ 
minster Aquarium, and some time previous to the judging the President, 
E. Sanderson, Esq., expressed his opinion that the parent blooms were 
not those of Mrs. Heale, and he thought they were Eve. Someone 
at the time suggested that the sport might be Mabel Ward, and 
attention was directed to a plant of that variety standing near in one of 
