October 16, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
357 
is the more difficult, for it frequently happens that not more than 
perhaps half a dozen are ready for lighter, drier, and more airy 
positions at the same time. These plants, when they reach this stage 
of growth ready for ripening and maturing, will do very well under 
the same conditions as the Cattleyas that have made their growth 
and ripened. 
In many instances Dendrobiums do not flower so well or so pro¬ 
fusely under artificial treatment as they do the first season after they 
are imported. This we have proved from experience to be entirely 
due to the often hasty and careless process of ripening the pseudo • 
bulbs. Although they should be gradually yet thoroughly matured 
it must not be done too quickly, and thus bring them prematurely to 
a standstill. After they are removed from the house in which they 
have been grown any attempt to get the foliage ofl: deciduous varieties 
as quickly as possible, under the impression that as soon as they are 
destitute of foliage they are well ripened, is a great mistake. It is of 
vital importance if a rich harvest of flowers is to be the result that 
the work of maturation must be gradual and the plants brought from 
activity to enjoy their season of rest as naturally as possible. In 
many instances I have noticed that when these plants have been 
imported in good condition they often make better pseudo-bulbs the 
first season than they do afterwards. This is the result of the com¬ 
plete rest the plants enjoy by being taken from their native homes, 
and the weeks of cessation from activity they have before they 
pass into cultivators’ hands. Dendrobiums need not decline in health 
and vigour after the first season or two if they are only well ripened 
and thoroughly rested. When thoroughly established on blocks, in 
baskets, or pots they are in a better position for resting thoroughly 
and starting again into growth than can possibly be the case during 
their journey to this country. In bringing the plants into a thoroughly 
ripened condition and to complete their rest they must neither be fully 
exposed to the rays of the sun, nor should they be suddenly dried 
at the roots. Both must be done carefully and gradually, and in 
due time the plants will flower abundantly. Not only is it neces¬ 
sary to rest and ripen deciduous varieties in order to flower them 
well, but the same care and attention is needed in maturing the 
growths of evergreen kinds. Some varieties require very careful 
treatment during the resting season, for if kept in too low a tempera¬ 
ture the foliage will become brown at their extremity, and thus for a 
few seasons perhaps disfigure the appearance of the plants. The 
little difference in the treatment required during the resting period 
will soon be discovered from experience by the observant.— Scientia. 
PLANTING EOSES. 
The season for planting or transplanting Roses having arrived, the 
following hints may be of use to the rising generation of rosarians, who, 
it is to be hoped, may increase a hundredfold or more as years go by. The 
best time for planting Roses must depend on the sort of Roses selected, 
the locality where they are to be planted, as to whether it be warm 
and sheltered or exposed to keen winds. 
There seems to be a general consent amongst rosarians that Tea 
Roses should be planted out in spring. Hybrid Perpetuals and others in 
autumn—in October or November, and not later if possible. October 
would be the better month in most seasons (certainly in the present year 
after so fine a summer), as Roses then planted would be better rooted and 
consequently better established before winter than those moved later. 
Stereotyped systems of transplanting Roses have arisen from a mis¬ 
taken notion about the “ rest ” of plants. Winter has been regarded as 
a time of complete suspension of growth. It is now, however, found that 
no sooner is the Rose transplanted than the severed roots make haste to 
renew their connection with the soil ; hence the importance of moving 
Roses while the sap is still active and the earth and air are warm. No 
sooner are the roots (if sufficiently protected by mulching from being 
frozen) in full activity than the dangers arising from transplanting are 
passed. 
Neither do the shoots rest entirely in the winter. The process of bud¬ 
filling proceeds all the while, unless the fluids of the plants be absolutely 
frozen by an exceptionally severe winter. Spring only finishes what has 
been going on more or less all the previous winter. The quality of the 
Rose buds and blossoms must be largely determined by the number and 
activity of the Rose roots during the winter; hence the importance of 
early planting on the future health and stability of our Roses. There¬ 
fore, to adopt a phrase that is familiar to most persons, “ Give your orders, 
ladies and gentlemen, give your orders ” at once.— Geta, 
LAPAGEIIIAS AT WORKSOP MANOR. 
In a lean-to house facing the north at Worksop Manor, Notts, are 
three Lapagerias—two of the red variety and one of the white variety— 
which have produced this autumn over 3000 flowers, or averaging slightly 
over 1000 each. They have been planted four or five years, are very 
limited for root space and I believe have never had any artificial manure 
of any description. So well flowered are these plants that I have now for 
two seasons counted on a spray, some 36 inches in length, more than as 
many flowers, which may easily be understood when it is stated that from 
four to seven flowers in a cluster are quite common. Of course these 
large clusters are on the strongest shoots, but the weak shoots are propor¬ 
tionately floriferous, and anyone who cuts away these weak shoots makes 
a great mistake, provided room can be found for them. By weak shoots 
I mean anything not less than one-twelfth of an inch in diameter, Mr. 
Sutton lays in all the wood he can find room for, and that he is thoroughly 
successful has been amply demonstrated during the present autumn to 
the delight of scores of visitors. As an example of cultivation and 
floriferousness I venture to say that it is not surpassed by any in the 
country ; and, further, that it has few equals. I have forgotten the space 
the plants cover, but perhaps Mr. Sutton will favour us with particulars, 
and also a few details of cultivation. 
I attribute the success in a great measure to the aspect of the house, 
for no shade is required, and the Lapagerias do not receive the direct 
rays of the sun at any time, consequently the tender succulent shoots re¬ 
ceive no injury from scorching, but at the same time have the great bene- 
Fig. 60.—Single French Marigolds. 
fit of uninterrupted light, so necessary to the due consolidation and 
maturation of the wood. These conditions, to my mind, are as near what 
the plant receives in its native habitat as we are likely to give it in this 
country.—J. U. S. 
SINGLE FRENCH MARIGOLDS. 
Single examples of French Marigolds are common enough, and have 
been seen in numbers of gardens for years past, not a few of the flowers 
being richly marked and beautiful; hut perhaps the brightest, clearest, 
and neatest that have come under our notice were sent a few days 
ago by Messrs. Garraway, nurserymen, Clifton, Bristol, as'represenling 
a strain, the result of many years crossing by Mr. E. J. Lowe. So 
rich and clearly defined were the colours that we requested our artist 
to engrave examples of the flowers, and he has certainly not invested 
them with any artistic merit to which they are not entitled. For various 
purposes of decoration these small richly coloured single varieties are 
admirably adapted, and the brightness of their clearly defined colours 
will not be disputed. 
Wild Bees and Single Dahlias. —The single Dahlia blooms in my 
garden are rarely, if ever, unoccupied by wild bees, more especially by 
