October 53, 1884 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
381 
■wco.l, and wlitn done with the roots will not be more than 3 inches in 
lenj^th, and the branches only a little more. To the inexperienced the 
plant would then look very unlike a plant to he easily wintered; but never 
mind that, as it is in the best possible keeping condition. They should 
be packed as closely as possible in shallow boxes, filled with a rich light 
mixture and fine sand on the surface, and then they may he wintered 
without difficulty in gi’eenbouse or frame. Were the leaves and tender- 
pointed shoots allowed to remain on they would begin to damp and decay 
at once, but when these are removed there is little left for the damp to 
affect hut the hard stems, and these will keep hard and fresh until spring, 
when many young growths will be emitted, and the result w 11 he a fine 
stock of very bushy dwarf plants.—J. Muir. 
ORCHID NOTES. 
Zygopetalum Mackayi. —I was recently asked when visiting a 
garden what was the matter with this grand old plant, for I was told 
it had declined in health and vigour during the past few years It 
was clear that unless some improvement took place the plants would 
ere long have to be conveyed to the rubbish heap. Some years 
ago I had charge of these plants ; they made their growth in the 
stove during the summer months, and were then placed while in 
flower in the conservatory. Under this simple treatment the plants 
grew vigorously and increased rapidly in size. Since then the Orchids 
have been all placed together and kept the whole year round in the 
heated structure in which they are grown, with the above results. 
The new system of treatment deprived the plants of that complete 
season of repose so essential to health and vigour. The secret of 
growing this old Orchid well is to give it heat and moisture during 
the season of activity and complete rest while in flower. The con¬ 
ditions of the conservatory or anj' similar structure will suit it exactly 
where a temperature not higher than 45° to 50° is maintained. This 
plant will continue growth slowly under ordinary stove treatment 
where the night temperature ranges from 60° to 65°, according to the 
weather. To ensure complete rest in such an atmosphere the plant 
must be dried severely at its roots, and even then the season of rest 
received under such conditions is not really beneficial to the health 
of the plants. The large pseudo-bulbs and thick fleshy roots of this 
plant enable it to withstand drought for a very long time, but 
complete rest, so essential to luxuriant growth, is better brought 
about by subjecting the plant to a lower temperature. Little or no 
water at the roots will be needed while the plant is allowed to remain 
in the temperature advised. Not only is this Zygopetalum generally 
benefited by a lower temperature, but the flowers if allowed to expand 
under cool conditions are larger in size, brighter in colour, and they 
last nearly twice the length of time. This Orchid does well in a pot 
or pan in a mixture of peat fibre, lumps of charcoal, or broken crocks 
or both, and a little sphagnum moss. During the season of activity, 
if the pots are well crammed with roots, weak stimulants occasionally 
assist the plants wonderfully. This is one of those grand old Orchids 
that should be grown in quantity where choice flowers for conserva¬ 
tory decoration are required during the autumn and winter months. 
The flowers are highly fragrant, very suitable for cutting, and last 
for a long time in water. 
Maxillaria picta.— This is not generally found in gardens where 
rare, new, and handsome Orchids are largely grown. It is, however, 
just the Orchid for those who want abundance of flowers during the 
season when they are rather scarce. Not only are the deliciously 
sweet blooms of this plant useful for cutting, but the plants when in 
flower may be employed in rooms without the slightest injury. Plants 
for this purpose are the most useful in 5, 6, or 7-inch pots. Where 
these plants have been grown in heat they will have completed their 
growth, and should have been kept since rather dry at their roots. 
When in this condition they should be gradually hardened and placed 
in a cool structure for a time. The Udontoglossum house wil' do 
provided the plants are kept dry, if a position with a drier atmo¬ 
sphere cannot be found for them. They must not be moved direct 
from a warm to a cool house, or the foliage will assume a sickly 
yellow hue. They may be rested from one to three months, according 
to the time their flowers are required, for they are soon produced from 
the base of the pseudo-bulbs after thej'’ are again placed in heat. 
If the plants are only given a short rest they may be again rested 
after the flowers have been cut ; but the preferable system is to r. st 
them thoroughly before they are forced into flower, and then they 
can be grown afterwards without any check. 
Epidenduum vjtellinum MA.TUS. —The spikes of scarlet flowers 
of this lovely and useful Orchid are very beautiful for association 
with Udontoglossum vexillariura ; the two mixed together show e ich 
other ofi: to great advantage. This is another cool species, easy of 
cultivation, invaluable for cutting and decoration, it flowers with 
great freedom, and will without doubt become very popular as Orchid 
culture becomes more general and useful kinds rise in public estima¬ 
tion in preference to a large number of species and varieties. The 
day for variety is passing away, and good plants, whether new or old, 
that will give the greatest return with a minimum of labour and 
trouble are being eagerly sought for. This is one of those Orchids 
that does not require any particular skill in its cultivation, and grows 
with great luxuriance when subjected to the ciolest treatment. 
Imported plants if they arrive in good condition start freely into 
growth when placed into pots nearly full ot drainage and only just 
sufficiently large to hold them. The pseudo-bulbs should be secured 
in their pots by means of peat fibre and a small stake until the 
formation of new roots, 'the moisture of the Odontoglossum house 
will be ample for the first two or three weeks after arrival, when the 
j)lants may be dewed over lightly with the syringe twice daily until 
they commence growth. As soon as growth and root-action have 
commenced the suppljr of water may be gradually increased until they 
can be treated in tfiis respect the same as established plants. 
The best time to repot these plants is just as they are commencing 
to make new roots. Peat fibre, lumps of charcoal, and the surface 
mossed are very suitable. The temperature of the Odontoglossum 
house suits these plants admirably. 
BOUVARDIAS. 
On page 352 of the Journal “ J. B H.” in referring to my note on 
Bouvardias in a previous issue, does not consider it possible to grow these 
useful plants so well in cool frames as under warmer treatment; but as I 
have seen both methods of culture, and therefore have had opportunities 
of judging which was the better of the two, I have no hesitation in sayiing 
that the cool system produces the better results. As “ J. B. H.” seems to 
be a little confused regarding the term “ cool treatment ” as used by me 
regarding Bouvardia®, I may state that the plants referred to were put 
out into cool frames on the 2nd of May, and allowed 'to stay there until 
they came in bloom. These plants have produced and still are producing 
abundance of fine flowers. “J. B. H.”says his plants grown as stove 
plants have made growths as thick as a lead pencil; our plants grown in 
a cool frame have made similar growths, and I maintain that wood which 
has been grown slowly in this way, and thoroughly ripened by exposure 
to the sun, will certainly produce more satisfactory results than that 
which has been grown in a warm humid atmosphere, which produces 
rank succulent shoots, but wanting the stamina contained in the others. 
Evidently “ J. B. H.’s ” plants are not in bloom yet, as he s.ays that 
his “ plants thus far are very fine, having growths,” &c., but no mention 
is made of flowers. Perhaps he will by-and-by discover that appearances 
are deceiving.— Caledonian. 
Will J. Vining or anyone else say what is the cause of mildew in 
Roses and Chrysanthemums 1 I have been much troubled with it of late 
year^, but I think if I knew the cause I could prevent it. I read of 
many cures, but I have no book which tells me the above.—F. 
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WOKK F0fi.THE week. 
CIM 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Carrots.—kW these from seed sown in spring or early summer should 
be taken up and stored for the winter. As in the case of other roots, 
only a dry day should be selected for working amongst the Carrots, as 
they keep very much better when taken in dry. With care in storing 
Carrots may be kept fresh until April or May, and all who know how 
much valued they are in the kitchen will be of opinion that to do this 
is worthy of attention. The short thick Horn varieties may, as a rule, 
be drawn up freely by taking hold of the stems and pulling them, but 
the Intermediate Long Surrey and others of this class cannot be drawn 
easily, and as many of them may be broken in doing so the best way 
is to take a fork and ease them out of the soil. In sandy land they 
will turn out clean, but in adhesive soil it may be necessary to rub the 
hands r ound them to clear off the soil. The stems or leaves shonld then 
be cut close off and all sorted. Never put small ones and large ones 
together, as they are seldom required at the same time or for the same 
purpose. Store them in two heaps and in two sizes, putting plenty of 
sand or .ashes amongst them and over them. In a cool shed, outhouse, 
or cellar they may be safely stored. 
Pars nips .— These should also be left in the ground unless they are 
growing in a very wet soil where they would be likely to decay, and 
they may be treated like the Carrots. Allowing dead and dying leaves 
to remain about the crowns of the roots will soon cause them to decay. 
It is from this cause that many Parsnips rot so much at the tops. 
Endive. —This is one of the most useful of winter salads, therefore do 
not allow it to fail by want of proper attention now. The early batches 
are now almost full grown and quite ready for blanching. The best way 
of doing It is to tie all the leaves in a bundle at the top. If this is done 
when they are quite dry and they are tied rightly the water and rain 
will be thrown off without any of it getting into the centre to cause 
decay. Endive keeps much better green than blanched, and no more 
