October 80, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
401 
In selecting the ground give preference to that of a light nature upon 
gravel. Get the top spit of a pasture, and double-trench with sufficient 
manure, not in too large a quantity. I am not an advocate for strong 
growth, which produces coarse flowers. If of a loamy nature, use a quan¬ 
tity of road sand. The sooner the bed is prepared the better, leaving the 
soU as rough as possible that the frost may penetrate it. 
If the soil is known to contain wireworms at the time of trenching use 
a quantity of soot and lime. It will quickly destroy them. This being 
one of the enemies spoken of, they must be looked after carefully. 
Having tbe ground prepared, as the season comes round procure from 
one^ of the many trade growers sufficient plants for the size provided, 
having the rows 5 feet from each other and 4 feet between the plants. 
When received they will be in small pots. Place them in 48’s, keep 
them in a cold frame, giving all the air possible, just j)rotecting them 
from frost. About the Ist of June place a stake to secure each plant, 
and on the top of this a small flower pot containing a little moss. 
Examine them in the morning and you will often find another enemy, and 
a very destructive one, the earwig. Every one destroyed then will pre¬ 
vent great trouble when the flowers begin to expand. After planting 
great care is required to protect them from slugs, which generally attack 
them just below the ground. As soon as they have grown sufficiently to 
harden the wood they will not for a time do any great harm. 
As regards varieties, “ E. M., Croydon," has given in the Journal of 
Horticulture, September 25th, page 289, a most elaborate description of 
the best Show and Fancy flowers, as shown in 1883 and 1884. All can 
refer and act upon it in selecting with the greatest confidence, and I 
beg personally to thank him for the great labour and time he has devoted 
to the subject. 
I would not advise anyone to begin with a large number of plants. 
Eighteen Show and the same number of Fancy varieties, with proper 
attendance, ought to produce in the show a stand of six of each variety. 
Master your position and then extend your collection. 
Having arrived at the planting, by that time all other information 
required till the flowers are put upon the show-board shall be duly given, 
not forgetting the “ sun and moon.” Alas ! another enemy, frost, made 
its appearance last night, and has completely destroyed all Dahlias for 
this season.—H. G. 
A CORRESPONDENT signing himself “Tyro ” asks if “ H. G.,” or any 
successful exhibitor, will advise to enable him to become a successful 
exhibitor of Dahlias. If “ Tyro ” wishes to grow Dahlias, or any other 
florists’ flowers, he should first learn the situation the plants grow most 
naturally in. ^ Many persons will plant a Polyanthus iu an open south 
border; but if he will look for the Primrose he will find it facing the 
morning sun. Plant Dahlias where Potatoes grow all top or bine and no 
tubers, a deep loam. I agree with what my friend, “ H. G.,” states, as I 
generally see his Dahlias daily, and frequently before or after sunset we 
walk through each other’s gardens. To rise with the sun is the best time 
to examine the flower buds, and take off all false or deformed bad eyes. 
To examine a Dahlia bloom when the sun is shining bruises the petals and 
causes the destruction of bloom. In the moonlight do not slugs and grubs 
wander abroad ? and when the moon does not shine I take a lamp and 
search for the slugs and other pests. If a plant is injured by a slug, 
take a Lettuce leaf and place round, and damp the ground ; go at eleven 
at night and look for the pests. I would advise all who wish to succeed 
not to put a plant in the ground and go again in a month after expecting to 
see it perfect in blossom. Nature does her part when assisted ; if not, you 
must expect to find small blooms, which will only bring disappointment. 
—Thomas Garratt, Bishop Stortford, Herts. 
P.S.—As you so favourably reported upon some six seedling Dahlias 
I sent October 2nd, I enclose two other varieties. The three blooms are 
from a seed plant of 1884, also the one bloom which has been very fine, but 
the frost has destroyed its growth ; the shape, I think, you will consider 
fine.—T. G. 
[We consider the flowers represent varieties of great promise, their 
form being excellent and colours pleasing.] 
LIQUID MANURE. 
Every gardener knows the value of liquid manure. In the 
hands of the experienced it is an important aid in the cultivation 
of flowers,_ fruit, and vegetables, whilst in those of the inexpe¬ 
rienced it is one of the most uncertain in effect, yet by its timely 
and judicious application results are achieved which a few years 
ago would have been considered unapproachable without a con¬ 
siderable extension of the rooting area. Of flowering plants we 
have more useful and more floriferous specimens in fi-inch pots 
than we formerly had in 9 or 12-inch. Its use has quite revolu¬ 
tionised our ideas in respect of plants grown for decorative 
purposes. Then in fruit culture large borders have given place 
to borders of limited extent, rich soils have been supplanted by 
those more likely to encourage root-action, and which are porous 
through the presence of inorganic substances. 
Further, as regards vegetables the use of sewage, aided by 
mulching, has rendered us safe from famine through drought, 
and we have attained an excellence in products much in advance 
of previous results. Instead of filling the ground with manure 
much in excess of what would be needed for the sustenance of 
the crop in an ordinary season, we trust more now to meeting j 
emergencies as they appear by the prompt application of manure 
in a liquid form, and the evil effects of drought are avoided by 
watering and preventing evaporation by mulching. Artificial 
manures also assist us greatly, as they maybe applied as surface 
dressings in frequent small doses, yet they would be ineffective 
were it not for the copious waterings following their application. 
If the object of the cultivator is to secure the largest size of 
plants with the finest foliage, the largest head of bloom and 
finest flowers in the smallest pots in the least time, he must give 
liquid manure before the soil is exhausted of its virtues, and 
continue to give it as long as the plant remains in the pot. Thus 
a sturdy vigoi’ous growth is maintained from the first, and up 
to the flowering or, with foliage plants, until they are of a 
suitable size for decorative purposes. Thus we see Primulas, 
Cyclamens, Cinei-arias, Pelargoniums, and Fuchsias in 5 or 
G-inch pots superior in size, health, and flower to what were only 
a short time ago grown in pots 2 to 3 inches larger in diameter. 
What is true of flowering plants is equally true of variegated and 
foliage plants, also to the freer rooting and softer growing hard- 
wooded plants. In growing the latter we have wonderful 
examples of cultivation from the judicious application of cool 
manures in liquid form through all the stages of growth up to 
the flowering. 
Softwooded Ericas and Epacrises are obtained in small pots, 
lai'ge in head and splendidly flowered, by superior cultivation 
but if they have nothing but water after the flowers expand, the 
jDlants are so exhausted that they do very little good subsequently, 
This is equally the case with softwooded plants; they are fed 
so as to afford a fine head of bloom out of all proportion to the 
pots they are grown or flowered in, and the plants are never so 
line again. Such plants are grown specially for market, they 
are disposed of and thrown away aftei they have served the 
purpose intended. The wonder is not why it should be so, but 
rather how it could be otherwise. To continue the vigour of the 
plant after this stage is reached is thought by some to be im¬ 
practicable. They change hands, are placed in conservatories, 
greenhouses, or employed for decorative purposes indoors. 
There is a sudden and complete cessation of the high cultivation, 
and the plants soon exhibit signs of weakness and ill health. 
But there is no reason w^hy a well-fed plant should not by con¬ 
tinuing the treatment be healthy and vigorous for years after 
attaining to a suitable size. Evidence of this we have in exhibi¬ 
tion plants; the same old stagers take and keep their places 
year after year as certainly as the shows. Therefore, I would 
point to the fact that when a specimen deteriorates it is due 
entirely to a withdrawal of the high culture to w'hich it had 
qireviously been subjected. If much weakened no care or culture 
will restore the former vigour, but if the only effect on the 
health is due to the flowering good treatment will render them 
as useful as before. 
The time for applying liquid manure to plants in pots 
requires some considei’ation. The time not to apply it is when 
a plant is newly potted and has no roots in the fresh compost, and 
when it is in a dormant state or resting. The time to apply 
liquid manure is when a plant has active roots, when the flower 
buds are forming, and when they are expanding. Liquid manure 
can never be given wrongly at those times. When a plant is 
growing strongly in plenty of light and air, and flower buds are 
showing, the roots will take almost any amount of nutrition, 
which in the case of softwooded qilants will need to be continued 
until the flowering is over. In the case of plants that make 
growth and set the buds and then rest awhile, the liquid will 
only be required until the growth is made, as, for instance, 
Camellias, Azaleas, &c., and through this stage liquid may be 
given, but at the resting time liquid manure is not necessary, or 
only in the case oE weakly plants with a heavy crop of buds, and 
then in moderate qtiantity. When the buds take the next 
swelling or for flowering, the roots, if the plants are healthy, 
push active feeders, and these feed the swelling buds and 
expanding flowers, new growths issuing soon after flowering or 
in vigorous examples with them. If the manure is to be of any 
use it must be when the plant has an active root-action. Applied 
when the root-action is dormant, liquid manure will not do much 
good beyond enrich poor soil; but it may do great injury by 
gorging the soil with aliment which stagnates and destroys the 
roots. This is a common case with Camellias from an excess of 
water alone ; the roots are lost during the resting season, and 
the buds fall when they should be expanding. 
There are cases when liquid manure may be given at almost 
any stage of a plant’s growth, provided the foliage be fully 
exposed to light. I allude to plants kept in continuous growth 
and flowering, such as Gardenias, Tree Carnations, Eucharis, and 
Stephanotis. 
Liquid manure must be given to plants in accordance with 
