404 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULIURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 30, 1884. 
ties ; 0. Rossi ; 0. grande; and 0. vexillarium rubeilutn. The latter is 
a very fine high-coloured form recently purchased from Mr. W. Bull. 
Dendrobium chrysanthum, D. Lowi, D. formosum giganteum, and 
D. Dearii. The latter is one of the most useful amongst Dendrobes, its 
pure white flowers being freely produced and lasting a long time in 
perfection. Oncidium bicolor and 0. varicosum ; Zygopetalum Mackayii, 
a fine form, with a lip 2 inches across; Epidendrum Hanburyanum ; 
Masdevallias ignea and Wagenerii; Cypripediums insignis, Roezlii, and 
Spicerianum, the latter very beautiful, a gem amongst Cypripediums. 
The collection generally is in fine health, and has of late been much 
improved by Mr. Wilson, its proprietor, in the judicious selection and 
purchase from various sources of many rare and fine varieties. I made a 
note whilst there of a large plant of Dendrobium nobile, referred to by 
me in the early part of the year as having been potted in the rhizomes of 
bracken. I find it has made very satisfactory growths, which are not 
quite so long as others potted in peat and sphagnum, but are remarkably 
stout and short-jointed.—W. K. W. 
INSECTS ON ORCHIDS—SPIDERS. 
In your issue of the 28th ult. I notice that “ A Thinker ” advocates 
the use of quassia water as a preventive for thrip on Roses and Carnations. 
Having been much plagued this summer by the yellow thrips in my 
Orchid houses, especially the Cattleya one, may I be permitted to ask 
“ A Thinker” if he would recommend—and Orchid growers sanction—a 
syringing overhead of my Cattleyas with the decoction of quassia wood 
as prepared by him ? 
Yet another question and I have done. Can “ A Thinker,” or any¬ 
one else, tell me how to get rid of the common spider from Orchid 
houses.!’ He is a great trouble to me. People say, “Oh leave them 
alone, they do not injure the plants ! ” This is no doubt partially true ; 
at least they do no harm directly, but indirectly they do very much, as 
they bring dust and dirt into the houses, which sooner or later gets on to 
the leaves and spoils them, to say nothing of the spider’s objectionable 
habit of appropriating all the leaves, roots, or young growths of my 
precious Orchids to support his fly-catching apparatus. — Anothek 
Tiiinkek. 
DINNER TABLE DECORATION. 
Responding to the invitation of your correspondent on page 370 of 
your last issue, I wish to state what little experience I have gained in this 
important and increasing branch of horticulture. A maxim to be followed 
in table-adornment is certainly lightness and simplicity of arrangement. 
This is the first lesson, and it is surprising what great results can be 
obtained even when the most common flowers are tastefully arranged. At 
this season in many large establishments shooting and dinner parties are 
frequent, and it requires careful thought to make a different arrangement 
and give variety on each occasion. Cne thought arises here—if we 
employ hothouse flowers we endeavour to have hothouse leaves and Ferns ; 
if we use wild flowers their leaves and wild Grasses are arranged: for 
instance, to mix Dahlias or any border flowers with Aliamandas and 
Dipladenias would be to spoil the effect of both. We may learn many 
such lessons in combination of kinds and colours. On the 1st of this 
month we had a large centrepiece filled with wild flowers with common 
field Grasses to give lightness, and on the ends of the table were arranged 
with the common green moss of the woods crossed rifles (imitation); 
while in the angles formed by the rifles were placed pheasants of moss 
with small wild flowers to lighten them. At the sides were four partridges. 
To take the flatness off clumps of grasses were arranged fixed in sand on 
small pieces of cardboard covered with moss, and the effect was indeed 
novel and striking, especially by the shade of the lights. So much for what 
may be termed the sportsman's table. 
Another good effect I have found to be obtained from our roadside 
berries. A very pretty tracing may be had from the bright scarlet 
Hawthorn berries. They are very striking with the leaves attached in 
small pieces, and contrast favourably with the deep Elder beriies, and even 
Blackherries, when in good scarlet clusters. Sloes, Hops, and others. Later 
on we have the Briar berries, while what is prettier than the Cotoneasters, 
Yews, Laurels, Privet, and the garden Asparagus with their light foliage? 
With the leaves attached very pretty designs and good effects may be had 
from all these. 
Then we come to coloured leaves with the splendid autumnal tints— 
Beeches, Oaks, Birches, Maples, Alders, Barberries. Fine tints may be had 
from the fading Ghent Azalea. Virginian Creepers and the Ampelopsis 
Veitchii with its light clinging wreath-like strings of dark colour just 
dropped here and there are very pretty. 
The most generally employed, however, are our hothouse productions. 
It is difficult to find anything more tasteful or elegant than a tracing round 
the table in various modes of the old Selaginella denticulata (Kraussiana) 
with single blooms of Pelargoniums, Begonias, Bouvardias, Fuchsias, or any 
other bloom of striking colour dropped in the centre, with a Maidenhair 
Fern or any graceful pendant plant, banked up with moss and studded 
lightly with bloom. Around this may be placed at an even distance four 
small Coleuses, Crotons, or Pandanus Veitchii; with a few small glasses of 
flowers neatly arranged according to the size of the table placed in posi¬ 
tion, very elegant and striking results may be obtained. 
Thus many profitable evenings may be spent for young gardeners with 
advantage and credit to themselves; and if we mean to excel in the craft 
now-a-days evenings are not to be spent idly, for designing, drawing, and 
decorating is becoming a great feature in a gardener’s career. I have 
learned a few lessons from our journal, and I would thank your able 
correspondents, “ W. B.” and Mr. H. Dunkin, for their kind information and 
useful hints on a subject that deserves more Jattention than it receives.— 
Another Young Scribe. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM AND FRUIT SHOWS, AUTUMN, 1884. 
October 80th.—Fruit Show at South Kensington. 
November 6th.—Ealing. 
„ 6th and 7th.—Southampton. 
„ 7 th and 8th.—Havant. 
„ 10th and 11th.—Stoke Newington. 
,, 11th.—Putney ; Royal Horticultural Society’s Meeting, South Kensington. 
„ 11th and 12th.—Kingston, Croydon, and Lambeth. 
,, 12th and ISth.—Royal Aquarium, Westminster; Bath, Colchester, and 
Cranbrook. 
„ 13th.—Wa ton-on-Thames. 
„ 13th and 14th.—Richmond, Brixton, Teddington, and Tunbridge Wells. 
„ 14th.—Reading. 
„ 14th and 15th.—Crystal Palace, Huddersfield, Canterbury. 
„ 18th.—Winchester and Lincoln. 
„ 18th and 19tb.—Plymouth. 
„ 19th.—Wimbledon. 
„ 19th and 20th.—Northampton and Birmingham. 
„ 20th.—Taunton, Dublin, and Aylesbury. 
„ 20th and 21st.—HuU. 
„ 22nd.—Loughborough. 
,, 26th.—Manchester. 
„ 25th and 26th.—Liverpool, Basingstoke. 
„ 26th, 27th, and 28th.—York. 
December 5th and 6th.—South Shields. 
WOKK.foi\.theWEeCQ 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Planting .—The necessity for planting in new gardens is clear, but in 
old gardens it is not always apparent; yet the necessity is none the less 
urgent in some degree, for there is much difference in the duration of fruit 
trees in health and full bearing. In a large collection failures frequently 
occur, and sickly or worn-out trees should never be retained. Whether 
planting be done in gardens new or old, see that each tree has the soil in 
sound, sweet, fertile condition for it before planting. Each station must 
be 2 feet deep and 6 feet square, which gives a tree 72 cubic feet of soil at 
the outset. Beneath the 2 feet of soil put 6 inches of concrete, consisting 
of one part of fresh-slaked lime to six parts of coarse sand or finely broken 
stones. To insure perfect drainage, lay a row of 2-inch land drain-pipes 
across the station, and press the pipes slightly into the concrete before it 
hardens, continuing the pipes to the nearest drain. The concrete prevents 
the roots from running down into the cold subsoil, and by subsequent 
surface dressings the roots are drawn upwards, and an ample supply of 
food given to the tree. Plant early in November for choice, and from 
necessity at any time during winter. When the condition of the soil and 
weather admits of it, shorten the branches to the bud whence new growth 
is expected next season, cut off any bruised roots, spread out all roots at 
full length, cover with 6 inches of soil, which press down firmly by 
careful treading. No tree can grow and thrive unless the soil is pressed 
closely about the roots. When planted the base of the tree should be 
6 inches above the common level of the soil surrounding the station to 
allow for settling down. Fasten the tree at once to stakes, wall, or trellis; 
put a surface dressing of rough manure over the soil about the roots, 
attach a neat label of some durable material bearing the name and date of 
planting, and also enter the name in the fruit book and upon the garden 
plan. Regard every detail as important and indispensable at the time of 
planting to insure success and accuracy. The trees must be of stout, 
clean, healthy growth. If for walls either fan-trained or palmetto verriers 
15 to 20 feet apart, or single cordons 18 inches apart, espaliers either 
cordons or palmette verriers. For orchards either pyramids 10 feet apart 
or bushes 20 feet apart, or standards 30 feet apart. The two latter forms 
are preferable where close pruning is undesirable, it being necessary only 
to keep the branches thinned and the centres open. Take especial care not 
to expose the roots more than can be helped to the air. Unpack when 
the trees arrive, and at once plant or cover the whole of the roots with fine 
soil so well that there be no drying or roots shrivelling, or the tree 
will certainly suffer, and show it has done so by the feeble growth next 
season. 
Fruit for a market garden should consist solely of sorts of proved merit, 
abundant and early croppers, hardy and vigorous growers, with fruit of 
fine flavour, high colour, and handsome form. 
Dessert Apples. —Joaneting, Margaret, Mr. Gladstone, Early Straw¬ 
berry, Kerry Pippin, Worcester Pearmain, Red Astrachan, Devonshire 
Quarrenden, Margil, Ribston Pippin, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Court of Wick, 
King of the Pippins, Bess Pool, Mannington’s Pearmain, Claygate Pear- 
main, Adams’ Pearmain, and Sturmer Pippin. 
Kitchen Apples .—Early Julyan, Lord Derby, Duchess of Oldenburg, 
Keswick Codlin, Manks Codlin, Lord Sufldeld, Stirling Castle, Cellini, 
Lady Henniker, Wormsley Pippin, Ecklinville Seedling, New Hawthorn- 
den, Loddington, Warner’s King, Blenheim Pippin, Golden Noble, Small’s 
Admirable, Tower of Glamis, Winter Queening, Grenadier, Northern 
Greening, Count Pendfl Plat, Dumelow’s Seedling, Annie Elizabeth, Nor- 
, £olk Beefing, Gooseberry. 
