410 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 6, 1884. 
constitution, and does well on its own roots or worked on 
the Black Hamburgh stock ; but something must be done to 
assist setting, or it will fail conspicuously. A small globule 
of moisture exudes from each pistil, and unless these are dis¬ 
persed either with a syringe or dislodged with the hand they 
will fail to be affected either by its own or other pollen that 
may be used with a camel-hair brush in order to make 
“ assurance doubly sure.” Alnwick Seedling may be said to 
be of fairly good quality, but not equal to Mrs. Pince’s Black 
Muscat. 
Gros Guillaume is the finest of all the late black sorts, 
and if kept till February or March is of excellent quality. It 
is generally confounded with the Barbarossa. Gros Guil¬ 
laume produces bunches rather sparingly, but they are of 
grand dimensions, and the nearly oval-shaped berries are 
of good size, colour well, and, as before stated, are good 
to eat. Some of the best bunches I have yet grown were 
produced from a graft on a Lady Downe’s, which in its 
turn had been grafted on a Black Hamburgh stock. Only 
about four spurs were allowed to form on this graft, these 
being at the bend in the rod near the front of the house, and 
as a consequence the rod of Lady Downe’s retained its cha¬ 
racter, and this may have had something to do with the free 
bearing and perfect colouring of the Gros Guillaume. The 
idea was conceived and carried out by my predecessor in that 
situation, and I was well pleased with the result of the 
experiment. Gros Guillaume is to be seen in very fine 
condition at Longford Castle, several of the bunches probably 
weighing not less than 10 lbs. each. The grafts or eyes were 
procured from Mr. Eoberts, gardener at Charleville, County 
Wicklow, Ireland, who, it may be remembered, grew a bunch 
of this variety weighing 23 lbs.; but whether his form is 
better than others have I am not prepared to decide, but 
should think not. 
West’s St. Peter’s is a Grape that I know but little about, 
but it is a great favourite in the few gardens where it is grown. 
Eoyal Ascot was to have been a perpetual bearer, but it 
proved remarkable only for the great number of ugly little 
bunches it was capable of producing. It is not worth house 
room, and the same may be said of the once popular and 
easily grown Black Prince. Chatsworth Seedling is grown 
in a few gardens, but I have only seen it well coloured at 
Heytesbury. Mr. Horsefield, however, thinks it is not 
needed, as it is inferior to the Madresfield Court and Mrs. 
Pince, which varieties it somewhat resembles.—W. Iggulden. 
GEOWGNG DAHLIAS FOE EXHIBITION. 
Before proceeding to give a few practical hints to “ Tyro ” on 
this subject, I beg to say that I quite agree with “H. G.” in his 
assertion, that he must “rise with the sun” if he wishes to obtain 
the much-coveted honour of a first prize at the Grand National 
Dahlia Show. There “ H. G.” speaks from “practical experience,” 
as to produce such blooms as he exhibits one must simply live amongst 
his Dahlias. But there is no reason why “ Tyro ” should not exhibit 
next year with success if he does not begrudge two or three hours 
daily in attending to the plants. To my mind there is nothing more 
enjoyable than a walk through the Dahlias in the cool of the morning ; 
besides, it is the best time to catch our enemies the slugs ; and “ Tyro’s ’’ 
reward for an extra hour’s work morning and evening will be the 
height of his ambition—viz, a first prize at the Crystal Palace 
Dahlia Show. 
In the first place, we will suppose that “ Tyro ” wishes to exhibit 
in the classes for twelve Show, twelve Fancies, and six or twelve 
Bouquet varieties. The plants should be ordered in April, so as to 
ensure obtaining useful examples early in May. As soon as they 
come to hand they will require shifting into a larger size pot—say 
go’s or 48's, according to the size of the plants, in which 
they may remain till the time comes for planting out. In a few days 
they can be placed in a cold frame and the lights taken off .in 
favourable weather, as it is essential to have stout short-jointed 
plants by the end of May. 
The situation is very important, as Dahlias cannot be grown 
successfully if they are crowded amongst other plants ; they become 
drawn, and are much injured by insects. Let them have an open 
position to themselves, the ground being double-trenched in the 
winter. The beds should always be prepared by the beginning of 
May at the latest, and a little Lettuce may be sown where the 
plants are to be placed, as slugs are very fond of ih The beds 
should be 4 feet in width at least, 5 feet would be better, with a 
footpath, and 4 feet between the plants. A stake should be put at 
each position before planting is commenced, as it injures the roots 
if done after. The stake must be strong and driven firmly into 
the ground, as Dahlias when fully grown are very heavy, and unless 
securely tied to a good stake they would be likely to be injured 
in rough weather. 
The best time to plant is the last week in May ; if done sooner 
there is great risk of the shoots being killed by frost, which we 
have had here up to the third week in May, and occasionally even 
in June. Besides, the plants are not losing time if they have been 
potted as advised. As soon as the planting is finished they must 
be watered sufficiently to settle the soil, and then at night have some 
fresh-slaked lime at hand to throw closely round the stems. This 
must be done frequently, especially after showers, when slugs come 
out in great numbers, and unless the utmost care is taken some of the 
plants are sure to be eaten. Search should be made for these pests 
morning and night ; we have caught at least half a dozen on a plant 
at one time this season. About the beginning of July give them a 
dressing of half-decayed manure ; it should be put on liberally and 
dug in round the plant—not too near, or the roots will be disturbed. 
Cow manure is best on hot light soils, as in hot dry weather, like w'e 
have had during the past summer, it keeps the roots cool. Give the 
plants a good watering over the beds, and it is astonishing what 
progress they will make. When growing fast more stakes will be 
necessary to secure the side branches, and thinning will he attended 
to, as cutting out large branches injures them. The Dahlia cannot be 
grown to perfection if allowed to carry the whole of its branches. 
Six or eight at the top, and the same number at the bottom, according 
to the space the plants have, are sufficient to produce a dozen good 
blooms. 
Disbudding requires care and discrimination. Select those with 
a round hollow in the middle, and avoid all with deformed centres. 
Some sorts want very little, and others much disbudding. For 
instance, a large flower like the Kev. J. B. M. Camm may be 
allowed to carry as many as three blooms on each branch, merely 
rubbing out the small shoots as they appear ; while a medium-size 
flower like Sunbeam must only be allowed one. If the weather is 
hot and dry they will need watering, as the buds are swelling. Water 
must be given liberally over the bed, and once a week a supply of 
liquid manure will be a great help. 
We will now suppose we are within a fortnight of the show 
which we are preparing for, when the Dahlias will need much atten¬ 
tion. Early in the morning earwigs should be searched for, and if 
this is neglected it is likely that some of the buds we are depending 
upon for our finest blooms may be completely spoiled. Pieces 
of Bean stalks placed among the plants make excellent traps ; 
but the simplest way to catch them is to put a pot on the centre 
stake, place your hand round it, remove the pot, and destroy them. 
The buds must also be protected with cotton wool tied lightly on the 
stalk, just under the bud ; and in the evening, as a further safeguard, 
pure indiarubber which has been dissolved by heat should be put 
round about 6 inches from the top, just like a ring round the stalk. 
Remove any leaves which would form a bridge for earwigs and 
caterpillars, and you will then feel tolerably safe from these enemies. 
If the weather continues hot syringing the plants will be very 
beneficial, and as the blooms expand shading will be necessary. 
A word of caution as to cutting the blooms may be profitably given. 
Do not cut until after eight o’clock at night, as after a hot sultry day 
the blooms are quite limp ; whereas, by waiting till the dew is falling, 
the}'- freshen wonderfully. In reference to the number of plants 
required to show tw'elve blooms from, I advise not less than fifty, in 
twenty-five varieties, and I append a list of the finest Dahlias in 
cultivation. 
Shoio Varieties. —Clara, Emily Edwards, Ethel Britton, Georgina, 
Canary, George Rawlings, Goldfinder, Henry Walton, Hope, Harrison 
Weir, Imperial, James Stephen, James Vick, Joseph Green, John 
Standish, J. C. Quennell, John Henshaw. Joseph Ashby, Mrs. Harris, 
Mrs. S. Hibberd, Mrs. AV. E. Gladstone, Mr. G. Harris, Prince 
Bismarck, Rev. J. Goodday, Sunbeam, and William Rawlings. 
Fancy Varieties .—Barnaby Rudge, Chorister, Enchantress, Egyp¬ 
tian Prince, Duchess of Albany, Gaiety, George Barnes, Fanny 
Sturt, Galatea, Hercules, Henry Glasscock, Hugh Austin, Jessie 
McIntosh, James O’Brien, Mis. Saunders, Mrs. N. Halls, Miss 
Browning, Oracle, Peacock, Professor Fawcett, Polly Sandell, Rev. 
J. B. M. Camm, Ruby, Gem, and Wizard.— John Rawlings, 
Romford. 
Eakly-plowering Reflexed Chrysanthemums.—Empeboe op 
China. —As there is no occasion to house Chrysanthemums before 
October, is there any objection to classing all Chrysanthemums that 
bloom in the open air before, say, mid-October, as early flowering 1 
