November 6, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
411 
Many people when they speak of “ early-flowering varieties ” mean those 
that bloom before mid-September. It would be well if the point was 
authoritatively defined. There are very few really good early-flowering 
varieties, and before October there is little occasion for them. La Neige 
is probably the best pure white early-flowering. As I had half a dozen of 
Emperor of China in bloom on the 10th October in the open air, and as it 
is free-blooming and fine-shaped, if the definition I propose was acceptable 
this beautiful silvery white variety would be classed among the above in 
future.— W. J. Murphy, Clonmel. 
NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY’S CATALOGUE. 
A SUGGESTION. 
May I through the Journal suggest to the Committee of the National 
Rose Society the desirability of adding in future editions of the catalogue 
the pronounciation of the foreign Rose names therein ? That such a 
guide is wanted all rosarians will acknowledge, at least if not fc r 
themselves, for their neighbours. Charles Lefebvre has probably 
by this time become accustomed to hear himself addressed as 
“ Le-fave,” “ Le-feve,” “Le-five,” and “ Le-fe-ver,” and “Senna-Tea 
Vaisse” may have forgiven Canon Hole’s friends for so calling him, 
though to be sure it was done in a moment of jealousy ; but the 
proprieties should not be so outraged. With such a guide even “ Et-e- 
enne Lev-et ” may in time hear her name without a shudder, “ Du-py 
Jam-in” rejoice in being understood, and “ Glory-de-Di-John ” be 
persuaded to die a natural death. 
By-the-by, would Mr. D'Ombrain undertake the work in the “ Year- 
Book ? ” A much more extended list could there be given, and none of 
us need then debar Heinrick Schultheis from entering our garden, as one 
of your correspondents has done, because we could not pronounce his 
name. 
As most people possess an English dictionary, and thereby tacitly 
admit an imperfect acquaintance with their own tongue, I need not 
hesitate to sign my name to this letter. Moreover, I have written solely 
in the interests of others. Candid people tell me T have a very great 
beam in my own eye, but I do not believe them. — W. R. Bland. 
WORK FOR WINTER WEATHER—STRAAV MATS. 
Notwithstanding the beautiful weather we have been enjoying, the 
rapidly shortening days, the autumn tints of the woods, and the soft rustle 
of the faded leaves as they are wafted on the gentle breeze upon our soft 
green lawns, warn us that it is but the calm before the storm, and that 
gloomy winter may burst in upon us at any time. It behoves us, then, to 
be prepared with something to ward off its frosts and piercing winds. The 
superiority of straw mats to the ordinary Russian mats as a protection from 
frost I think will be admitted by all who have been accustomed to the use 
of both. I consider that a good well-made straw mat 1^ inch thick will 
be equal, if not superior, to three ordinary mats. The stiffness of the 
former also allows of their use in a variety of ways, with but little trouble 
and less risk of their being blown about by wind and consequent damage to 
the plants over which they may be placed. The following mode of making 
these may differ a little from that already advanced in these pages ; but 
except that it is like the industrious Scotch woman’s stocking, always 
handy to take up or put aside at a moment’s notice, I do not claim any 
particular advantage for it. 
The construction of the frame, a, fig. 1, will readily be seen. It is 
simply three laths 3 inches by half an inch, fixed together by three similar 
pieces nailed to them at right angles. At the junctions of the laths holes 
are drilled sufficient to admit of pegs three-quarters of an inch in diameter 
being inserted as at i. These pegs should be made of ash or other hard 
wood, should be 6 inches long, and be made with a shoulder at the base. 
After placing them'in the holes they should be firmly secured by driving 
a nail or small peg 'through it flush with the top side of the frame._ This 
completes the frame except three more laths exactly like the others, with cor¬ 
responding holes, and which are shown in position, c, c, c in our drawing. 
The best material to use is good clean Wheat straw, the longer it is the 
better. It ought to be secured when being carried out of the harvest field 
or when being threshed in the stackyard. It should be taken in handfuls, 
the butt ends put straight by holding them upright and tapping them on 
the ground. The ears are then cut off straight, placing them on a sheet 
to be conveyed to the thrasher, and the straw laid straight and tied into 
bundles. In commencing to make a mat first fix four lengths of tar string 
as shown at d, d, d, d, passing them through holes in the frame, and 
seeming them by a peg from the under side. A few inches of loose end 
should be left at each end for finishing the mat with when taken off the 
frame. Place the frame on the ground, and lay the straw evenly all over 
it, commencing at one end and laying it in small handfuls alternately with 
the butt ends to each side of the frame. When filled the three laths, c, c, c, 
are slipped over the pegs, pressed down with the knees, and a piece of 
wire placed through a hole in the peg to keep all secure, as shown in the 
fig. The frame with the straw in it may then be set on its side between 
two men or lads, and with an ordinary packing needle it is stitched from 
side to side, the middle string being each time brought over the stationary 
strings and pulled tight. The stitches should not exceed an inch long, 
and when done the mats should be about an inch or an inch and a half 
thick. When taken out of the frame a straight piece of bean-stick should 
be tied on to each end by means of the loose ends of string. Always roll 
the mat up with the stationary strings inwards, otherwise the latter will 
be more apt to break because of its being tight on the frame. As I stated 
before, the great advantage of this plan is that when once the frame is 
filled with straw it is always ready and need never be in the way, as it 
can be hung up or stood against the wall of a shed ready to be taken up 
again when showery weather or frost or snow prevents outdoor work being 
proceeded with. I should have mentioned that these may be made of any 
width to suit frame lights ; ours are 3 feet 6 inches by 8 feet long. It is 
better to have them made about 1 foot 6 inches longer than the lights to 
be covered, so that they may hang over each end. 
Another mode of making useful straw shelters is shown at fig. 2 
FIG. 2. 
Three laths 3 inches by half an inch and two of the same dimensions are 
cut exactly square at the ends. They are simply laid together as shown at 
a, a, a, and fastened together with strips of tin as shown at the opposite 
end. Similar pieces of tin are fixed to the under side, as shown at h, &c. 
The straw is then laid on the laths in the same way as for making an 
ordinary mat; another frame exactly the same is laid on the top, the slips 
of tin, h, i, are pulled tight over it and made secure, so that the straw is held 
firm between the two. Two or three long screws should be put into the 
centre laths to keep these together. The straw is then cut straight with 
the outside of the laths, and the thing is finished. We have a few of 
these 3 feet 6 inches by 8. They are light enough for men to move about 
without assistance, are very useful in many ways, and will last for many 
years, as the straw can be removed when it decays. These are excellent 
mats for protecting any plants in turf pits, no supports of any kind being 
needed, and there is little danger of their being moved by wind. Again, they 
can be converted into an excellent temporary shelter for Chrysanthemums or 
other tall plants by supporting a row on each side on their sides and 
placing others over the top. They can be stood against low walls to 
protect Peach or other tender bloom, and what better could be had for 
laying on the roof of a small Cucumber house during severe frosty nights 
in the depth of winter ? They are equally serviceable for shading a seed¬ 
bed or cuttings inserted in the open ground in the heat of summer. 
R. Inglis. 
GIVING LIQUID MANURE. 
It is now some years since I decided to use liquid manure as sparingly 
as possible during hot weather, and that is what I take “ Thinker ” to 
mean. This season none was used from the beginning of May until 
August, and then only outside and well washed in, but with very marked 
benefit. This of course is “Non-Believer’s” theory, and it thus appears 
that both are quite right. 
When I read “Thinker’s” remarks on giving liquid manure during 
winter I was somewhat encouraged. Corroboration in an unusual practice 
is often a great help. On this is based my interest. If applying such 
liquid during autumn, winter, or spring is found to be so beneficial, then 
I venture to say there must be some grounds for suspicion during the 
summer season. I have very carefully tried both systems, not wishing 
to be dogmatic. I have no hesitation in my mind, and have made still 
more provision for carrying out the winter supply in the shape of a 
cement tank beneath our usually large manure heap. Having a good 
supply of water, we simply throw the hose on to the top, and so let the 
water pour through into the tank to be pumped up as required. This I 
find very strong and almost free from offensive smell, which is something 
in our favour, and it may be used with safety even during hot weather 
inside or out. Guano I consider extremely dangerous, except in very 
showery weather, and prefer to dig it in during spring, while to be on 
