436 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
[ November 13, 1881. 
Ward was cut down at the same time with the same result. Mr. Brunlees, 
cut down a week later, threw three fine buds ; unfortunately I lost one. The 
other two are not so satisfactory as the above, yet may turn out good, but 
this variety did not break so well with me. Jardin des Plantes, Queen of 
Plngland, Golden Empress, Empress of India, and Golden Queen were cut 
down the second week in June with good results, these producing an average 
of five good flowers about 3 feet from the pot. Hero of Stoke Newington 
and Princess of Teck were cut back at the same time, the result not being 
so good ; there were plenty of buds, but rather late, owing, I think, to 
the plants not being very strong when cut down. Mrs. Heale was cut 
down at the same time, and is still rather late ; it should have been 
shortened at least a week earlier. Princess Beatrice, which is sometimes 
delicate, is producing three good flowers 2 feet from the pot. I have 
sometimes found it difficult to get this variety true to name, also Keful- 
gence, which I am glad to say has done with me cut down at the same 
time as the last mentioned. I must thank Mr. Stevens, St. John’s 
Nursery, Putney, for including these two grand varieties in the col¬ 
lection I had from him in the commencement of the year. I lost only 
one out of a hundred varieties. 
I will now say a word about the Japanese. Madame C. Audiguier 
was cut down the second week in June, as in fact the most of this section 
were ; but this in particular I pinched afterwards, about the 1st of July. 
The result is half a dozen really grand flowers, which will be in season 
for showing. Madame Berthie Rendatler I treated the same way, with 
about the same results. Madame Delaux is grand, also Baronne de 
Prailly, Fleur Parfaite, Hiver Fleur, and others cut down as above stated 
without extra stopping. I have found that I have to regret not stopping 
some varieties the second time, which have proved too early for me. 
Lady Salborne, Thunberg, and Red Dragon are a little too early. 
Dr. Macary and Bend Or flowered early also, but the latter is a remark¬ 
able keeper. I cut down Meg Merrilees and Yellow Dragon the last 
week in May with good results, especially the latter, of which I shall get 
some fine flowers. I hope this will induce some of the experts to describe 
how their Chrysanthemums have succeeded this season.— J. Pithees. 
BOX EDGING. 
0-F the different plants used £oi edging garden walks there is 
not one that will supersede the Dutch Box. It is true that to 
keep Box edging in good condition requires annual attention, 
whilst tiles do not require any attention after being once firmly 
fixed. Box seems, however, to harmonise with the surroundings 
more than anything else which can be used. If Box is left un¬ 
attended, it not only has a very untidy appearance, but it will 
harbour vermin; but if it have an annual trimming, and is not 
allowed to grow into dense masses, there will be no trouble in 
this way. Box edging may be laid from the present time up 
to the end of April, but in many gardens there are so many 
things which demand attention during the early spring months, 
that relaying Box edging, if there is much to be done, has to be 
performed during the winter months. Where such is the case 
there is no alternative but to do it during the most convenient 
tune when other work is not pressing. Relaying Box edging 
during the early spring months is preferable, as the weather is 
then generally in a more settled state, and when the weather is 
pleasant the work will be finished in a more satisfactory manner 
than when the weather is cold and wet. During the early winter 
months storms of rain and snow may occur, which will disturb 
• the bank, consequently the edging would not look so well as if it 
were done in settled weather. 
Before commencing operations procure a good straight-edge a 
few inches longer than the width of the walk, with a spirit level 
fixed in it, or a moveable one, and three horning rods. Probably 
many young gardeners are not acquainted with these, therefore 
we had better describe them. The horning rods generally are 
about 4 feet 6 inches long and 14 inch square, with a cross¬ 
piece about 12 inches in length and 2 inches broad nailed level 
with the top of the rod. Now take a rule and measure each 
exactly 4 feet from the top of the cross-piece, and cut a notch in 
two of them; this will allow the remaining 6 inches, which should 
•be pointed, for fixing in the ground to keep the rods steady. 
'The third rod should be exactly 4 feet in length, and quite level 
•across the bottom, as this will have to be moveable, and will 
be more convenient for working than if pointed li'.^e.the other 
two. 
Now suppose we have a long edge of Box to lay. Deeply dig 
the ground first, then stretch a line in the exact place where the 
edging is to be, and drive a strong peg in the ground at each end, 
so that the top of the peg is level with the top of the walk at 
each end, and at each peg drive a horning rod, so that the notch 
which was made at 4 feet from the top is level with the top of 
the peg. Now place yourself at one of the horning rods. If the 
edging is to be quite level it does not matter which, but if the 
walk have a slope choose the highest end. You will require an 
afssistant to take charge of the third rod. The assistant should 
place his rod in the centre of the two end rods, the base of it I 
resting on a firmly fixed peg. Now by carefully looking at the 
top of the bottom rod you can easily ascertain if the top of 
the rod the assistant is holding is quite level with the two end 
rods. When you have the exact level, the top of the peg the 
assistant’s rod is resting on will be the exact level. Pegs will 
have to be driven into the ground at convenient distances along 
the line, the level of each to be taken in the same way as the 
middle level was taken. After all the pegs are made level, the 
tops of them will be the exact level the ground should be made 
up to. The level of the corresponding side of the walk can be 
had by using the straight-edge and spirit level from each peg. 
The line should next be stretched tightly over the pegs, and 
the ground made very firmly up to it, and be well beaten with the 
back of a spade to the width of 18 inches. The trench for the 
Box should be cut out with a sharp spade, and if the bank has 
been made very firm, the edge of the trench when cut will be 
quite level and so ld. It will now be ready for the Box, but we 
may as well make a few remarks on preparing the Box. Many 
gardeners cut the tops level with a knife, which is not only un¬ 
necessary but often does harm. If the Box has been trimmed 
the previous summer it will not be very straggling. It should 
be pulled apart into convenient sized pieces, and if there be a 
straggling point or two it may be nipped off. It will now be 
readyfor laying. The Box should beplaced evenly along the trench, 
the tops of the plants being 2 inches above the level of the bank. 
It should be held firmly in position by the left hand and arm, and 
with the right hand draw the soil to the roots and stems, packing 
it very firmly about them. We have found a piece of board about 
9 inches long and 4 inches broad very convenient for drawing the 
soil to the Box, it is also very convenient for firmly ramming the 
soil. After the Box is laid the soil which was cut out of the 
trench should be I’eplaced evenly and firmly. The first season 
after the Box is laid it should be allowed to grow unchecked, the 
next and following seasons it should have an annual shearing.— 
A. Young. 
STEVIAS. 
When nearly all other hardy flowers are waning these late autumn 
plants are still as bright as ever, and if the weather continues mild we 
may expect to have them for some time to come. Eupatoria-like, but 
much more graceful, they are extremely useful for rockery decoration, 
especially as they seem to be at their best at this late season. Unfortu¬ 
nately, unless in very favourable positions, they do not endure our 
winters very well, but they are easily increased from cuttings or raised 
from seed, and may be had in plenty of time to get large flowering 
specimens before the season closes. The old plants may also be lifted 
and kept in cold frame during winter, and again put out in spring, as 
with many other plants that add little more to the embellishment of our 
gardens through the autumn months. 
The species in cultivation at present is most generally Stevia serrata 
or canescens, a very pretty pink-flowered species, small but numerous, 
and collected into large corymbose heads nearly a foot in diameter, habit 
trailing, and most useful for a rockery. S. Eupatoria, a close-headed 
species with pure white flowers, is very useful for cutting. S. Plummerse 
and the variety alba are both very handsome plants; the first with rosy- 
tinted flowers has a fine upright habit, and useful for dry borders 
S. ovata and amabilis are also pretty plants, all deserving a place in large 
collections or where the demand for late flowers is great.—M. S. 
FUNGI AND DISEASES OF PLANTS. 
By T. J. Borrill, Illinois Industrial University. 
{Continmd from page 313.) 
KIND OF INJURY. 
The diseases caused hy fungi present many peculiarities according to 
the species of parasite or of host. Sometimes the latter is simply en¬ 
feebled, grows slowly and slenderly as from want of sufficient nourish¬ 
ment, which doubtless is the fact, because robbed. On the other hand, 
the infested parts sometimes take on abnormal shape or size, the ceils of 
the tissue swell to many times their proper dimensions, or become ex¬ 
cessively multiplied, or excessively filled with nutrient material. Their 
normal functions are impaired or diverted, and curious deformations and 
transformations occur. Not unfrequently the abnormal growth, though 
very difi'erent from the healthy structure, is just as regular and character¬ 
istic, so that one who becomes acquainted with the peculiar development 
may he able to tell at once what species of parasite produced the odd cell- 
formation without seeing the fungus, just as certain galls on plants point 
unmistakeahly to the species of insect which caused them. 
This, or these, modifications of growth seem to he quite as injurious 
in many instances as the actual robbery of nutriment first mentioned ; 
stems are swollen and knotted, leaves curled and distorted, fruit made un¬ 
sightly and worthless. But the worst effect of fungi is the more or less 
immediate death of the invaded cells. In well-known instances this 
takes place as regu'arly as the foregoing, certain destruction following 
the penetration of the mycelium, and affecting the rest of the plant or not, 
