470 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND GOT2AGE GARDENER. 
[ Norember 20, 1884. 
scribed by Mr. Inglis a few years ago :—“ Bend the rods down and peg 
them into the soil as shown in the accompanying figure. Rub off all the 
buds below h, except at a. Prune the cane back to the very best eyes, if 
they are half way up the rafters so much the better. Restrict the growth 
of the side shoots above i, so that the prominent canes coming from a may 
have plenty of room. Leave two or three bunches on the supernumerary 
cane, allowing it to extend to the top of the house, and in the third and 
fourth years take the main part of the crop off this cane, when it may be 
cut out altogether. By this plan you can get a better permanent cane, 
and I think this is best done by only allowing it to extend up the rafters 
6 or 8 feet the first year, encouraging a good lateral growth at the base. 
Restrict it in a similar manner the second and third years, leaving but a 
limited number of bunches on it till the other rod is cut out, when it will 
generally be found to be in a good position as a permanent Vine. By 
pegging the cane into the soil it soon becomes rooted and in a measure 
self-supporting, and so there is less risk of the Vine being exhausted by 
Fig. 78. 
bearing fruit the first and second years. It will be understood that all 
shoots must be kept pinched close on the temporary cane as the other 
advances up tbe roof.”] 
WORK.F0IITHE WEEK.. 
a 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Sowing Peas. —In very cold localities and bleak gardens we would not 
recommend Peas to be sown in autumn, but where gardens are situated in 
mild and sheltered positions the practice is well worth trying. By sowing 
now, if the winter prove at all favourable, the plants will certainly fruit 
some weeks before any which can be bad from seed sown in the open air 
in spring. It is the hope of accomplishing this which always induces us 
to sow now. Some winters we have lost our plants ; in others they suc¬ 
ceed wonderfully well, coming up strongly, remaining fresh and sturdy 
for a time, and then growing freely. Sutton’s Ringleader and William I. 
are good hardy sorts we always sow in autumn. An open sunny position, 
where they will not be drawn up at one time and blown about at another, 
is the best for them. Where the soil is already rich do not apply manure, 
but open the drills about 3 inches deep. Sow moderately thick, place a 
little sand over the seed, and then fill in with the surrounding soil. Above 
all sprinkle a layer of tine ashes, and let the plants find their way through 
these. In poor soil dig in a quantify of manure where the rows are to be, 
then open drills and sow as above. A dry day and dry soil are great 
advantages to begin with, and wheie these cannot be secured it will be 
better to defer sowing until spring. 
Earthing up Turnips. —Very few cultivators have sufficient storage 
room to clear their kitchen gardens of all roots before frost comes, but 
useful protection may often be afforded without sheds. Turnips of the 
Chirk Castle type are not easily injured by the weather, but white and red 
ones are often tender, and will become pulpy after a severe frost. To 
avoid this, the earth on each side of the roots should be drawn up and 
well over them, leaving the rows with much the same appearance as 
Potatoes have when “ earthed.” After this 10° or more of frost will make 
no injurious impression on the roots. 
French Feans. —Keep those in bloom and fruit in a temperature of 
65® or 70° with rather a dry atmosphere. Gather the pods before they 
become slightly old, and water only when required with weak liquid 
manure. Now it is difficult to induce Beans to grow freely now, and unless 
where the appliances are specially good we should not advise to be sowing 
seed until towards the end of December. 
Late Tomatoes. —Where the plants are growing in pots or beds and the 
leaves and fruits are quite green, keep up the heat to 60° at least, water 
sparingly, and do not allow the foliage to become crowded. Blooms are 
slow in opening just now, and young fruits do not form freely, but those 
swelling should have the best of attention. 
Mustard and Cress. —AVe have not said anything about these lately, 
as they are so easily produced in the summer that anybody may have them 
in quantity. From November until April we grow all our Mustard and 
Cress in shallow cutting boxes. They are I yard in length, 1 foot in 
width, and 4 inches deep. Light sandy soil is put in to the depth of 
2 inches, the seed is sown rather thickly and mixed, and it soon germinates 
and grows fast in any kind of forcing pit. One box lasts us a week, and 
by sowing weekly a constant supply is maintained. Where good salads are 
valued. Mustard and Cress cannot be dispensed with. 
Chicoi'y. —This is a capital accompaniment to the above. Where 
Lettuce and Endive are scarce it is invaluable. The roots should be lifted, 
potted closely in 10-inch pots, and then plunged in a hotbed. The top 
must be kept in the dark, as this causes the growths to blanch and become 
doubly valuable. We have just put our first batch into a corner in a dark 
shed, and more will follow as this is used. It takes a fortnight or three 
weeks to grow and blanch. The green tops are cut off before potting, and 
those for salad are all new and tender. 
Ropeing Omons .—On wet days, when outside work is brought to a 
standstill, the Onions may be looked over, and if time will allow the best 
of them may be made into “ ropes,” Every old garden labourer knows 
how to do this, and many take considerable pride in doing them up neatly. 
We do not think Onions keep better in ropes than lying loose, and only 
sound medium-sized bulbs should be tied on. 
Layering Broccoli .—This is sometimes termed “ heeling over,” and is a 
practice of some value in localities where the winters are generally severe. 
When the plants are turned on their tides they are not so liable to be 
injured as when standing straight up, and now is the time to lay them 
down. We do not spend much time in doing this, as we do not take a 
trench out along the side of each row, as is sometimes done, but we simply 
take a good spadeful of soil from behind each plant, press the plant and 
root gently over, and throw the spadeful on the upper side of it. All are 
made to face the north, and the rows look as straight and well after heeling 
as they did before. 
Rhuiari, Seahale, and Asparagus, —Batches of these should be put 
in to force for Christmas. The two former will grow freely in a dark place 
where the bottom heat is about 75° and the tep heat 10° less. The 
Rhubarb is taken up and planted in a a hotbed of leaves, and the Seakale 
is potted in batches and plunged near it. The Asparagus is planted in 
the light and in temperatures as near as possible to those named. 
Mint and Tarragon .—Many cooks value those in a green state in 
winter, and it is no difficult matter to supply them, as both force freely 
in any ordinary Cucumber pit. The best way is to lift and pot the roots, 
and then plunge them in heat near the glass. 
Celery. —It may be necessary on the approach of frosty weather to 
protect the earliest and most tender Celery, and this may be done by 
putting a bulky band of fern or straw around each plant just above the 
soil, but until frost comes this or any other protection would do more harm 
than good. 
Seed Potatoes. —Early varieties are sprouting, and it is much too 
early to keep them on. The better way is to turn them all over, and in 
doing so rub all the most forward of the growths off, then spread the 
tubers out as thinly as possible, and keep them cool and well aired. When 
other work is at a standstill manure-carting and wheeling may be carried on 
and push forward winter work so long as the weather is open and suitable 
i 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Cherry nou,se. —The trees will now be leafless and should be pruned, 
which, if care and attention were given to stopping in the shoots during 
the summer, will simply consist in shortening back to within an inch or 
so of the base all those shoots which were made during the growing period 
—terminal shouts and others which are wanted to fill vacant spaces and 
replace defective branches alone excepted. There last should be laid in, 
so far as practicable, in their entirety. This done the house should be 
thoroughly cleansed in order to extirpate obnoxious insects, the whole of 
the painted surfaces being washed with soap and water and the walls lime- 
washed. If necessary the woodwork should be painted. The trees, too, 
must be dressed. The best mode of cleaning is to wash with a solution of 
softsoap and water, 8 ozs. to a gallon, and in the case of scale applied 
rather forcibly with a hard brush, but care must be taken not to dislocate 
the buds, and afterwards dress with an insecticide. After these matters 
are disposed of and the trees secured to the trellis let all the surface soil 
1 or 2 inches deep be removed and its place occupied with good turfy loam 
of a calcareous nature, or if deficient in that mateiial add a sixth of old 
mortar rubbish, and then give a mulching 2 or 3 inches thick of well- 
rotted manure. If the borders are at all dry give a good watering after 
surface dressing with the compost, and before putting on the mulching, 
then all will be ready for starting when the proper time arrives. Plants 
