December 4, J884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
517 
should _ let the bunches remain and not disturb the Vine at present. 
Assuming there are a fair number of roots in the inside border we should 
consider the advisability of lifting all the outside roots, shortening some of 
them, and placing them in a much narrower border of good soil, supported 
by a wall of turves. In this fresh roots would form and extend rapidly in 
summer if kept moi>t by mulching, and the narrow border could be made 
wider as needed. In the meantime the roots inside the house should be 
encouraged by top-dressings and watering as needed. In the work of lifting, 
a matter of great mom nt is to prevent the roots drying. Good turfy loam, 
with lime rubbish and a liberal admixture of wood ashes, will be suitable for 
the border, reserving manure for the surface. The Vines may be pruned 
early in Januar}', and should not be forced into growth early next year. 
They are certain to be improved by this treatment, provided the foliage is 
kept clean and permitted to dev, lope under favourable conditions. Any 
mismanagement in the house will nullify the effects of the best border that 
can be made, and one of the greatest and commonest of errors is overcrowd¬ 
ing the foliage and overcropping i nfeebled Vines. Fresh soil can be applied 
to the roots of the Gros Colman when the crop is cut and the Vine pruned ; 
and possibly by adopting the practic; d-scribed by Mr. D. Thomson in 
January last this Vine may not require lifting at all. We are glad you 
have found our pages useful, and we shall always be ready to assist you if 
we can. 
Tea Roses in Pots {T. J. K .).—With the aid of the house you describe 
there ought to be no difficulty exp rienced in the maintenance of the supply 
of cut blooms all the year rouud. The amount of sunshine our Roses get 
during the winter months is very small, yet we are rarely without a few 
good blooms ; while during October and November, an J again in the spring 
months, we cut great numbers of really fine fiowers from plants occupying 
a space about equal to yours. From July till late in September, and this 
season up to the middle of November, plenty of good Tea Roses were cut 
from plants trained to warm walls and a’so planted in the open, and during 
that time the plants in pots were being rested. Supposing your plants 
woi’ld be turned out into a warm sunny ,=pot early in July then would be 
the time to repet them, and dining the summer, if properly attended to in 
watering and syringing as required, they would freely root into the fresh 
soil, and when housed—say, late in September—would only require a top¬ 
dressing with rich soil, to which a sprinkling of Beeson’s or Standen’s 
manure has been added. They .'should also be kept from flowering while 
outdoors, the removal of the buds being discontinued shortly before housing 
the plants. Soon after being housed they commenced pushing out fresh 
flowering shoots all over the plants and strong suckers are also formed. 
Under fair treatment they are no more liable to be infested with green fly 
than they are in the open, but it is advisable to syiinge them at least once 
a week with the decoction recommended cn page 324, or that recommended 
by Mr. W. G. Smith on page 479, both remedies being good preventives of 
mildew as well as of green fly and thrips. Under liberal treatment the plants 
would last for eight years orlongir, but we prefer younger plants, as they 
usually give the finest blooms. If you rested them during the summer your 
house could be utilised for the culture of tuberous-rooted Begonias, or a 
crop of Tomatoe.a, the former being dried off when the room is again re¬ 
quire d for the Roses. 
Spiraea japonica {B. S. J.) —You had better pot the whole of your 
clumps at once into 5 and G-inch pots, according to the size of the roots. 
One large crock may be placed at the base of the pots, but for those 
required for late flowering this is not important. They do not need very 
much soil to grow them to perfection, provided the crowns are strong and 
have been well ripened, for upon this depends whether they flower well or 
badly. Any good fertile soil will do for them ; but we prefer, where 
obtainable, good fibry loam to which has been added one-seventh of 
decayed manure. In potting leave plenty of room for water, for an abun¬ 
dant supply w ill be needed when the plants are in active growth. After 
potting you may stand the pots outside until the approach of severe 
wmather, when they will n'^ed the protection of a cold house or frame. 
This is not really necessary with those required for late or spring flowering, 
for they will be safe if the pots are plunged in coal ashes and the surface 
covered about 2 inches deep, so as to protect the pots from the action of 
the weather. Spirmas are xierfectly hardy, so that a very little protection 
to preserve the pots will keep the crowns in perfect condition. With the 
exception of a few n quired very late we prefer giving them protection 
under glass, for they start naturally into growth early in spring, and thus 
render the w'ork of forcing comparatively easy. These plants are easily 
forced into bloom in a temxierature of G0° to G5°, which will be necessary 
early in the season ; later a lower temperature will suffice. It is a good 
plan to bring them forward after the first batch or two under slightly 
cooler conditions, so that they w ill not become drawn up weakly. After 
the plants have started into growth they should be given a circulation of 
air daily when favourable. When growdh has fairly commenced the 
plants should be arranged as close to the glass as possible to keep them 
dwarf and sturdy. Before they come into full flower giadually inure them 
to cooler treatment to harden both the flowers and foliage, by which means 
they will be preserved in good condition for nearly double the length of 
t'me than if fully developed in strong heat. If wanted very early in 
flower plunge in brisk bottom heat and cover the crowns with an inch of 
cocoa-nut fibre or any other similar material until they start freely, when 
they may be grown without bottom heat. Plants started early—say at the 
present time—cannot be expected to do so w'ell as those that are started 
later and brought forward under more natural conditions. Spirteas should 
never be dry at their roots, and when they have once developed a quantity 
of foliage and are showing their flowers stimulants in a weak state may be 
given freely. They must be kept free from insects by syringing, fumiga¬ 
tion being injurious. When in full growth it is scarcely xrossible to give 
them too much water. 
Names of Fruits (S. Taylor ).—l,Ecklinville ; 2, Grenadier ; 3, Grenadier; 
4, Golden Pearmain ; 5, Kerry Pippin ; G, Dumelow’s Seedling. {A . J. Caxsin). 
—The dark Apple is Hambledon Deux Ans, the pale one Dumelow’s Seed¬ 
ling, and the small one is not known. A new edition of the “ Fruit Manual ” 
has just been published, and may be had from this office, price 16s., post 
free 16s. 9d. (G. Montague). —Winter Quoining. {B. C. Creswell). —The 
Apple is Dumelow’s Seedling, the Pear Comte de Lamy. {L. C., Somerset). 
—Mannington’s Pearmain. (IF. E. Mason). —3, Golden Spire; 5, Corni.^h 
Gilliflower ; 6, Pott’s Seedling. The labels had come off the other speci¬ 
mens. The small round russety Apple is Braddick’s Nonirareil. (T.D ).— 
Your Pears are correctly named Delices d’Hardenpont and Beurre Diel. 
(J. Iggidden ).—Your Pears are correctly named BeuneDiel and Duchesse 
d’Angouleme. The Black Worcester and Uvedale’s St. Germain are per- 
ft ctly distinct, and there is only one General Todtleben. 
Names of Plants {Newton, Bristol ).—Schizostylis coccinea. (B. I .).— 
Celsia Arcturus. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— DECEMUiiR 3 rd, 
Business very quiet, with prices generally lower. Nova Scotia and Canada Apples, 
as also St. Michael Pine.s, in heavy supply. Kent Cobs quiet. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
Apples .. .. 
4 sieve 
2 
6 
to 8 
6 
Oranges. 
.. io‘o 
4 
0 to 
6 
0 
Chestnuts .. 
, , 
bushel 
16 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches . 
per doz. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cobs, Kent .. 
per 100 lbs. 
60 
0 
0 
0 
Pears, kitchen 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Currants, Red 
i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
„ dessert 
dozen 
1 
0 
3 
0 
„ Black 
• • 
J sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples English., ft. 
4 
0 
0 
0 
Figs .. ., 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Plums . 
A sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Grapes ,. .. 
.. ft. 
1 
6 
4 
0 
Strawberries.. 
.. lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Lemons ,. ,. 
• • case 
10 
0 
15 
0 
St. Michael Pines 
. .each 
7 
0 
10 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
8« 
d. 
s. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
Artichokes 
dozen 
2 
0 
to 4 
0 
Mushrooms .. 
punnet 
0 
0 to 
1 
6 
Beans, Kidney 
ft. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Mustard and Cress 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Beet, Red 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Onions. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Broccoli . . .. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Parsley .. dozen bunches 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Brussels Sprouts 
, 
4 sieve 
2 
6 
3 
0 
Parsnips . 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Cabbage .. ,. 
dozen 
0 
0 
1 
0 
Potatoes . 
cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Capsicums 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
,, Kidney . 
cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Carrots .. .. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Rhubarb . 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Cauliflowers . . 
dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Salsafy . 
bundle 
1 
0 
0 
6 
Celery . . .. 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Scorzonera 
bundle 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Coleworts dcz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Sf akale .. .. per basket 
2 
0 
2 
6 
Cucumbers 
each 
0 
2 
0 
4 
Shallots . 
.. ft. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Endive .. .. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Spinach . 
bushel 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Herbs .. .. 
bunch 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes 
.. ft. 
0 
6 
0 
9 
Leeks .. ., 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Turnips. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Lettuce .. .. 
dozen 
1 
0 
1 
6 
IMPORTANT LITTLE THINGS. 
FENCES AND GATES. 
Especial notice has been given to w'ooden field fencing because 
in connection with most home farms there is a timber yard, motive 
power, and a circular saw. In cutting up timber for estate work 
each log is turned to account for various purposes, according to its 
suitableness, so that there may be no waste, and many a rail, stay, 
pole, or post is so obtained from odds and ends unfit for other 
purposes. Field gates, too, are obtained in the same way, and not¬ 
withstanding the neatness, strength, and durability of iron gates we 
have a decided preference for plain stout gatis of heart Oak for the 
rough handling to which farm gates are subjected. An iron gate 
is so easilj’’ bent or twisted that with it we are quite at the mercy of 
a careless carter, and that most carters are very careless is a fact 
well known to managers of home farms. But a well-made wooden 
gate if well hung cannot easily get out of order. We always have a 
stout sill put under the surface between the posts—this with a 
diagonal brace upon the gate ensures stability and prrfect action for 
a long while. There must, however, be no fastening of fence wires 
to gate posts, or the strain will generally be found to pull the posts 
out of position. The expansion and contraction of wire also affects 
the posts to which it is attached. 
Our wooden field gates are made in the ordinal y way with five 
or more bars, but along the top we have a piece of angle iron with 
a screw and nut at each end to pass through the ends of the gate, 
so as to impart stability and at the same time protect the woodwork, 
the iron angle forming a ridge to the top of the gate, the wood being 
bevelled to the same angle as the iron, so that no moisture can lodge 
upon the gate top. Now that iron is so cheap and trade competition 
so keen iron fencing will supersede wooden fencing when the length 
is considerable, cheapness and durability both being in favour of the 
iron, the large manufacturers of iron fencing now undertaking to 
erect it, even at long distances from their works, “ at prices defying 
competition,” as a timber merchant dolefully remarked to us quite 
recently. 
ROADS. 
Considerable experience in road-making has taught us that a foot 
.deep of hard matter is sufficient for any road, provided the surface 
