646 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND C0T2AGE GARDLNER. 
[ December 18, 1884. 
cannot be induced to produce blooms after the imported pseudo-bulbs have 
flowered; but, judging by the growth made this season, which surpasses 
the old pseudo-bulbs considerably. Among a host of other species of 
Dendrobiums were batches of D. bigibbum, D. Brymerianum, andD. Goldiei, 
all doing well, together with a magnificent specimen of B. formosum 
giganteum. Lycaste Skinneri and Odontoglossum madrense were flower¬ 
ing, the latter having seven of its fragrant whitish flowers on a spike. 
Oncidium varicosum Eogersii had a fine spike bearing thirteen lateral 
spikes. Barkeria Skinneri, with delicate rosy mauve-coloured flowers, was 
among the few occupants of the Cattleya house in flower. Then there are 
hosts of Odontoglots looking well, and Masdevallias bearing them company. 
Among many species of the latter were gatherings of M. bella,_ M. Shuttle- 
worthii, M. Eeichenbachiana, M. Chimsera, and M. tovarensis, the last- 
named being a satiny white and a profuse bloomer. A healthy plant 
represented the rare form known as M. racemosa Crossii. 
The cut flower trade forms a considerable item. In the _ first instance 
abundant supplies of flowers are always wanting, and quantities of Maiden¬ 
hair Fern too, each of which receive special attention. _ White flowers with 
delicately toned shades of flesh and rose are greatly in dernand. In this 
department Mr. Cypher has in his daughter a lady whose skill and refined 
taste for the arrangement of choice flowers in bouquets and dinner table 
decorations finds few equals, which may be gleaned from the fact that 
during the past few years several hundred prizes have been awarded her 
from aU parts of the kingdom.—E. J. 
DEESSING FRUIT TREES IN WINTER. 
Wheee any fruit-bearing tree has been attacked by insects 
in summer when the leaves were abundant and green it is a 
difficult matter to destroy the insects without killing the foliage 
or injuring both it and the young wood; but in winter, when the 
leaves are off and the wood matured, strong dressings and 
brushings may be applied without injuring the trees. There is 
then less harbour for the insects than when the foliage is in the 
way, and for these reasons wherever insects exist and it is possible 
to get at them they should be destroyed now. To do this we 
could name some scores of insecticides which have been invented 
from time to time, but we will limit our list considerably. Of all 
we only deal with three—petroleum, Gishurst compound, and 
lemon oil. The two former are well known, and the latter is a 
recent introduction of much promise. The petroleum is a cheap 
and excellent insecticide, but it requires careful handling, as 
besides being a certain and deadly insect-killer it will injure the 
leaves and the wood too if applied too strong or not washed off in 
time. Mealy bug, scale, and American blight are the worst of 
all fruit tree insects to destroy, and the petroleum will do it more 
effectually than anything. To every gallon of water add one 
wineglassful of the oil and half an ounce of washing soda ; mix 
them aU together, and then apply it with a sponge, a syringe, or a 
brush. Tall trees maybe syringed; very badly affected parts 
should be brushed, clean young shoots may be sponged. Rough 
spurs of Yines and knots or cankered parts on Apple and Pear 
trees should be hard scrubbed. The oil mixes much better with 
the soda and water than in the water alone, and the soda itself 
is a good cleanser. 
A common way of applying the oil is to add one wineglassful 
to four gallons of water, agitating it with the syringe and then 
applying it. This may be allowed to remain for five minutes, 
and then it is washed off by syringing; but although this will 
destroy thrips, green fly, and red spider, it will not kill all the 
mealy bug, scale, and blight, and these ai’e the worst. They 
cannot, however, resist the slightest drenching at the rate of one 
wineglassful to a, gallon, but it must not be allowed to remain on 
more than one or two minutes. In fact, as it is put on from one 
bucket it should be immediately washed off by tepid water from 
another, and all will be well with the trees. Its touch is instan¬ 
taneous death to the insects, and it need be left no longer. In 
using it on Yine rods one man should brush it on while another 
follows with clean water to sponge it off. Peach trees in the 
open and under glass should be treated in the same way, and 
Apples, Pears, or any hardy fruits should be treated in the same 
way. It is a good plan to use the syringe in dealing with wall 
trees, as very often the insects are harbouring in the joints of 
the stones and bricks, and it is well to include them. 
Gishurst compound is a safe insecticide to work with, as 
unless applied at the full strength it is harmless to the wood, but 
it is not so deadly as the oil to the insects, and we cannot do 
better at this season than advise all who have any troublesome 
pest on their trees to dress them at once. If they are afraid of 
the oil doing harm let them try it on one or two trees this winter 
and be guided by their experience afterwards.—M. M. 
During the season of rest an opportunity is afforded of 
carrying out many operations necessary to remove any defects in 
fruit trees due to soil, roots, growths, or insects. These I shall 
treat of under their respective heads. 
Soil.—This is undoubtedly the most important factor in fruit 
culture. If it be wet the tree will make long-jointed sappy or 
watery growths, being late in starting into growth in spring, and 
continuing the growth until late in autumn, keeping the foliage 
until destroyed by cold, and even then it is retained in its 
browned condition for a considerable time. The trees will be 
sterile and cankered, and if the climate be moist there will be 
an abundant growth of moss and lichen on the trunks and 
branches. Drainage in this case is the only remedy, and is the 
first and most important means of improving land. In order to 
ascertain if the soil requires drainage holes should be dug 4 feet 
deep in different parts of the ground, and if w'ater stand in them 
for any length of time the necessity for drainage is apparent. 
The drains should not be nearer the surface than 3 feet, and need 
not be deeper than 4 feet. In a stiff clay soil they should not be 
more distant apart than 15 feet, in a strong loam 18 feet, and in 
a shaly soil they may be 21 to 24 feet apart. Three-inch pipes 
are best, and the mains should be proportionately large, all 
having proper fall and outlet. Two-inch pipes or even less are 
sometimes used, but I have so often had to take them up and 
employ the larger size that I shall always give preference to the 
latter, which, though somewhat more expensive, are decidedly 
cheapest in the end. Drainage increases the temperature of the 
soil, and secures the percolation of water and air. Poverty of 
soil sometimes is the cause of unprofitable crops; the trees make 
but little wood, form an abundance of fruit buds, and bear 
enormously, but the fruit is small and crab-like. The remedy is, 
of course, to emuch the soil, and this can best be done by surface 
dressings of rich material. The loose surface soil may be loosened 
down to and scraped off the roots, then 2 or 3 inches thickness of 
decayed manure applied, or a similar depth of the thoroughly 
decomposed rubbish with the woody portions charred, which is 
also improved if a tenth of lime has been added. The old soil 
may then be returned, or as much of it as will cover the manure. 
In the case of orchard trees a top-dressing of manure, or if the 
ground be mossy preferably of the compost above described, will 
be of great service, and if repeated will soon effect improvement. 
Winter surface dressings should be afforded between November 
and March. When manure or rich compost is scarce, the con¬ 
tents of the cesspool or manure tank emptied on the ground 
about fruit trees will greatly enrich the soil. 
Soil may be too rich and too loose to obtain satisfactory crops 
of fruit. The remedy in this case is to make the soil firm by 
treading or ramming. This will have a tendency to check growth, 
cause shorter-jointed and sturdier wood, and induce fruitfulness, 
which when attained is the best corrective of undue luxuriance. 
It genei’ally happens, however, that root-pruning has to be 
resorted to before the growth is sufficiently checked, and the soil 
firmed at the same time so as to effect a good result. 
Occasionally fruit trees are neither strong, weak, nor stunted 
in growth, the blossom is abundant, but it falls without setting, 
or is cast for the most part in stoning. In some instances this 
arises from dryness of the soil, perhaps due to the roots being 
under a path. Making holes in the surface of the pathway with 
a crowbar to a depth of 18 inches, and filling these repeatedly 
with liqidd manure until the ground is thoroughly moist, has, 
in several instances, been attended with the best results. It is a 
practice well worth pursuing in the case of trees against high 
buildings with gutters to carry off the wet, as the soil for some 
distance from the wall becomes very dry, and a good soaking in 
spring before the blossoms expand, again when the fruit is 
swelling, with another or more between then and the last 
swelling, would, in most instances, well repay for the labour. 
But we sometimes see fruit blossons fail to set, or they fall 
instead of stoning, without, in either instance, apparent cause, 
for the trees are in every other respect satisfactory; they neither 
make too much wood, nor can it be attributed to weakness or 
want of moisture or nutriment in the soil. I once had some 
Cherries against a wall some 100 yards in length, and they were 
very disappointing. The usual remedies were tried, such as lifting, 
root-pruning, firming the soil, applying manure or water, and 
mulching, but the results were just the same. The whole garden 
of about two acres had been heavily manured and cropped, and 
it was considered advisable to bring in some fresh maiden loam, 
but as this is very difficult to procure in most places, I had to be 
content with lime, which was applied with the manure as usual. 
The Cherry border had more than its share of the lime; it must 
have had a bushel per rod. The Cherries bore abundant crops, 
and I found a similar result attend the application of lime to 
Apricot, Plum, Peach, and Nectarine tree borders. So pro¬ 
nounced was the result of the application of the lime that I 
became a firm believer in its potency. In calcareous matter we 
undoubtedly have an important aid to successful fruit culture, 
and soils deficient of it should have it afforded not more dis¬ 
tantly than every third year, and not ia great quantity at a tine 
