578 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTIAQE GARDENER. 
[ December 25, 1884. 
house best suits the plant. We have plenty of seeds for sowing early 
next year, and hope to save more for the following season on the plants 
now in flower. 
When the growths are required for table or vase decoration, a plant or 
plants are cut clean over, the growths carefully separated, being then 
available for various methods of decorating. On the first night the 
growths are freely distributed throughout the centre of the table, and the 
white cloth shows it off to the best advantage. The better to realise this 
it should be added that many of the growths are 3 to 4 feet long, the 
stems being very fine or wiry, and the leaves widely disposed and pinnate, 
are very neat, of a pleasing green colour, and very glossy. In addition to 
a profuse use of these wreaths of foliage we also employ a number of 
small fish globes, each containing specimen blooms of such fine Japanese 
Chrysanthemums as Bouquet Fait, Boule d’Or, Fanny Boucharlat, Grandi- 
florum, J. Delaux, Madame G. Audiguier, Meg Merrilees, and Oracle. At 
another time Poinsettias, trusses of red and pink Chinese Primulas, and 
single and double-flowering Zonal Pelargoniums are substituted, though 
these are reserved as much as possible for use when the Chrysanthemums 
are past. The Myrsiphyllum growths being taken off when the table is 
cleared and laid on a cool floor, keep fresh, and may be employed in a 
different manner for the next two nights. It forms a pretty fringe to the 
small banks of green moss and flowers, and is also very pretty when 
lightly intermingled with the latter. 
These growths are also suitable for twining round the stems of tall 
flower vases, and when in flower they prove still more attractive, as the 
pretty little greenish white flowers are] produced very thickly, and are 
strongly and pleasingly perfumed. Other uses for this comparatively but 
little known plant could be mentioned, but I think I have enumerated 
sufficient to prove its value as a decorative plant, and the ease with which 
it can be grown ought to further tell in its favour. It is Asparagus-like, 
in that it is constantly pushing up fresh growths from the crowns, and. 
also in having thick fleshy roots. IE cut clean over, a fresh batch of 
shoots are produced, and these are available in the spring and summer 
months. Old plants will not be kept here, as we find the seedlings the 
most vigorous, and they do not shed their leaves so quickh'. — W. 
IGGULDEN. 
BOBBERS OF HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 
The space usually allotted for the cultivation of hardy plants is in 
the majority of cases, even in well-ordered establishments, small and 
altogether inadequate both for their requirements in general and also for 
the purpose of showing what may be accomplished when plants are well 
arranged. In some it may be of necessity that the collection is small; but 
many places with a little management could be utilised for this purpose, 
all in some way assisting to make things more beautiful and cheerful. 
There are few gardens not surrounded by a belt of trees or shrubs for 
shelter—in many cases, too, themselves a feature if tastefully arranged; 
but in too many instances the desire to fill up and afford the necessary 
shelter is the main one, after which, unless in trimming up that part 
visible from the walk, little or no care is taken to keep it in order. The 
thinning-out process, which should be commenced gradually and carried 
on judiciously, is often left until it presents a thicket, and when the trees 
or bushes that might hare been symmetrical are all one-sided and un¬ 
sightly, the gradual thinning-out process is not only advantageous to the 
trees and shrubs but it in a measure opens up quite a new aspect, where 
the taller and stronger-growing of our herbaceous plants thrive in a most 
remarkable way. 
Asters, some of the taller-growing Helianthuses, a few of the Mal- 
vacern, Coronilla varia, and others are particularly fond of such situations. 
Ferns in quantity may also be well grown, getting as they do just the 
requisite amount of shade, so essential to their success. Helleborus 
foetidus is also partial to such places, and, indeed, in a few years may be 
had as much at home as it is near the famed “ brig of Donne.” This 
also applies to H. virinis as regards situation. The little borders at the 
foot of fruit walls could also be utilised as bulb beds, simply transferring 
the bulbs there as they cease flowering in pots. In this way Hyacinths, 
Polyanthus Narcissi, Tulips, Crocuses, &c., will in the course of a year 
or two regain their old vigour without materially robbing the soil, a 
good top-dressing in autumn being their only requirement. 
Near espaliers there are often narrow empty borders on each side. 
The roots of the trees will invariably be found only on one side, and if 
this happens to be the shady side Violets and Christmas Roses succeed 
well. We have now some well-established plants of the Christmas Rose, 
which we mulch in autumn, and these will supply us with flowers from 
now to the beginning of February. On the other side, which may be 
widened so as to make a small border, a supply of flowers may be had at 
almost all seasons from Sternbergias, Crocus, Cyclamens, &c., which in 
open seasons are hardly a fortnight past. 
In back rows large plants could be used sparingly, so as not to exclude 
light, a number of which could also be used as isolated specimens— 
Acanthus in variety, Achillea Eupatoria, Aconitums in variety. Delphinium 
in variety, Alstroemeria aurantiaca, A. psittacina, Anchusa italica, Asclepias 
tuberosa, &c.. Aster Novae Anglirn, multiflorus, turbinellus, &c., Helianthus, 
various. Campanula pyramidalis. Phlox, Astilbes, and Bocconias. Others 
for first and second row—Saxifragas, Silenes, Lithospermum prostratum, 
Violas var.. Lobelias, Gaillardias, Gladioli, Liliums umbellatum and 
Krameri, Tulips and Narcissi in quantity. Irises, Fritillarias, Calochortus 
luteus, Ornithogalums and Colchicums, Crocuses, Anthericums, Stern- 
bergia lufea, Anemones, Carnations, and a host of others that need not be 
mentioned. The bulbs, if deep planted, may be placed between the rows 
and also between the plants in the row. The border will not require to 
be disturbed more than pointing a rich top-dressing in spring.—S. 
BOMAREA ACUTIFOLIA. 
The Bomareas are very closely allied to the Alstrdmerias, and were 
formerly included with them. They differ, however, from the latter in 
their twining stems and several details of their floral structure. In the 
genus Alstrdmeria the two upper segments of the perianth differ generally 
from the others either in form or colour, so as to give the flower an un- 
symmetrical appearance. In Bomarea it is destitute of this irregularity^ 
the two series composing the flower, although differing slightly from 
each other, being composed of segments uniform in shape and colour. 
Bomarea acutifolia is a tuberous-rooted plant, with twining stems, 
growing in the open ground to the height of 6 feet or more. The leaves 
are, as the specific name suggests, long and pointed, smooth and dark 
green on their upper surface, but paler and strongly nerved on their under 
side, the nerves being clothed with numerous hairs. A curious feature, 
common, however, to all the species, as well as to the Alstrdmerias, is 
the twisted petiole or leafstalk, by which the position of the leaf is re¬ 
versed. It would seem if Nature had, in a careless mood, originally 
attached the leaves upside down, and afterwards corrected the error by 
the very simple expedient of twisting the footstalk. 
The plant luxuriates in a rich sandy loam, and when the soil is 
naturally heavy and retentive a considerable proportion of sand should 
be mixed with it before planting the roots. In low moist situations it 
will also be highly desirable to place a few inches of drainage beneath 
the soil on which the tubers rest. This will give them a much better 
chance of enduring frost, for it is only in dry soils that they can be 
considered hardy. The tubers should be planted at least 6 inches deep, 
in a warm aspect; if at the foot of a south wall the plant will flower 
finer than in more exposed places. 
When grown against a wall the stems of the plant may be secured to 
a narrow trellis ; in other situations a neat stick will be requisite. In 
those localities in which there may be some risk in leaving the tubers 
in the ground through the winter, they should be carefully dug up soon 
after the stems have died down, and be preserved in pots of sandy loam 
in a dry place until spring. It is not advisable to remove the soil entirely 
from them, or they will shrivel, and perhaps decay. 
The increase of B. acutifolia may be effected by division of the tubers, 
or by seeds, which are usually ripened freely. Like those of some other 
endogenous plants, the seeds are apt to become so hard by keeping, 
