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K us tic A dornments . 
upward slit through the centre of the shoot as far as b. When this is done, 
get some wooden pegs similar to d , and then, having formed a slight basin in 
the sandy soil, bend the shoot down so that the slit part or “ tongue ” c is in 
the centre. Tie the peg d at a, and then get another peg e, and place this in 
a slanting position in the manner shown in the illustration. The object of 
this is to keep the shoot in a firm perpendicular position, and, to ensure this 
being fully accomplished, a piece of bast or some other soft material should 
be used to tie round the shoot and peg. Many do not use the peg e, but it is 
undoubtedly better to do so, since it enables the “ tongue ” c to be opened 
widely, and causes the wounded parts to callus, and produce roots quickly. 
It is also a practice with some to draw the leaves up closely together with the 
hand, and then cut off the tips, but we do not believe in its efficacy. 
After the layer is fixed, water the soil thoroughly, then place some of the 
sandy soil over the layered parts to keep in the moisture, and encourage the 
prompt production of roots. The same mode of procedure should be followed 
in all cases. Carnations require to be layered in August; the others in 
October or April. 
Budding. —This is the process of detaching a “ bud ” or eye from one 
plant and transferring it to another. It is very essential that a suitable time 
be chosen for this operation, as unless the bud be sufficiently matured, and 
the shoot from which it is to be detached has enough sap in action to allow 
of its easy removal, the delicate organs of the bud are injured. The stock, 
also, that is to be converted into a rose tree must have its sap in sufficient 
action to allow of the bark being lifted easily and smoothly. 
Fig. 28 shows a portion of a rose shoot containing three buds or eyes. 
The one marked d is too forward in growth, and would have the root or seat 
of the bud too high up for our purpose. The upper bud, marked b , is in the 
right stage. A good guide as to whether the buds are sufficiently ripe and 
ready to lift out freely, is when the prickles of the shoot break off close to 
the wood in a brittle manner when touched. If these hang on toughly, the 
bark or rind will also cling too tightly. This is a good general guide, but not 
absolutely correct. Trim off the leaf of the upper bud b at the dotted line, 
and then cut it out with a sharp knife (Fig. 28, c). Do not allow the knife to 
pass quite all of the way out again, but tear the bottom part of the bark away 
from the shoot. You will then have a bud like the one marked d in Fig. 28. 
Take this between the thumb and finger of the left hand, bend back the 
bottom portion of the bark until you can take hold of the small piece of 
