JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
July 13, 1882.] 
48 
as required, similar remarks applying to Vegetable Marrows, well 
attending to them with water in dry weather. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines. —Midseason or intermediate crops of Grapes now about colour¬ 
ing should have a temperature of 70° by artificial means night and 
day, and a little air given constantly and freely whenever the weather 
permits. If the borders are in the least dry give a thorough soaking 
with tepid water or weak liquid manure, and mulch with some short 
partially decayed manure; this watering will be sufficient to enable 
the Vines to ripen their crops. Moderate air-moisture is quite as 
essential to the Vines when finishing their crops as when the fruit is 
swelling ; but, as before observed, the houses must be freely venti¬ 
lated. Some kinds, such as the Duke of Buccleuch and Madresfield 
Court, are apt to crack when kept too moist at the roots, hence the 
preceding remarks must be modified in their case. 
Late Grapes should have every encouragement in the shape of plen¬ 
tiful supplies of water or liquid manure to the borders in a tepid state, 
keeping a genial condition of the atmosphere by damping available 
surfaces as they become dry, more especially at closing time, which 
should be done early with a good sun heat at a temperature of 85°, 
admitting a little air in half an hour or so afterwards. Commence 
ventilating on fine mornings when the temperature reaches 75° ; in¬ 
crease it gradually as the sun increases in power, and at 85° ventilate 
fully. Reduce the ventilation so as to keep it from falling below' 80°, 
having the temperature through the day as near as may be at 80° to 
85°, employing artificial heat to maintain a night temperature of 70° 
and 75° by day. Scalding should be guarded against by a warm con¬ 
dition of the atmosphere and abundant ventilation, especially in the 
early part of the day. 
Late houses of Muscats require similar treatment to the thick- 
skinned black late Grapes ; those ripening should have a little extra 
fire heat and a temperature from 85° to 90° as a maximum by day, 
with plenty of air. Late Hamburghs need not be pushed forward 
so rapidly as the kinds that are to keep over the winter, but they 
should nevertheless be assisted in dull cold weather with a little 
fire heat to maintain a night temperature of 60° to 65°, and 70° to 75° 
in the daytime; ventilate a little at 70° on fine mornings, and keep 
through the day at 80° to 85° from sun heat with free ventilation. 
Laterals should be kept well in hand by frequently pinching them> 
only allowing extension w'here the Vines are weak or carrying heavy 
crops, and in no case tolerate them if they are likely to crowd or in 
any way interfere with the full exposure of the principal foliage to 
light and air. 
Young Vines of this season’s planting should be allowed to grow 
freely, they having to be cut down at the winter pruning to three or 
four eyes ; but any supernumeraries intended for fruiting next season 
should have the laterals pinched at the first leaf, and subsequent 
growths as made to a length of 7 or 8 feet, above which the laterals 
may remain, as they will encourage root-action. 
Vines in pots for early fruiting next season have completed their 
growth, and should have free exposure to light and air ; they must 
not be allowed to become infested with red spider, but be syringed 
occasionally, and though they must not suffer by want of water, an 
overdose would be highly injurious. 
Grapes thoroughly ripe should be shaded during prevalence of 
very bright sunshine to preserve their colour, bloom, and quality 
unimpaired. 
3felons. —About this time, should the weather be warm and moist, 
the blossoms set very indifferently, especially in pits or frames where 
there is not the same means of expelling moisture as there is in 
houses heated with hot-water pipes. In cases of this description only 
apply sufficient water at the roots to prevent flagging, and avoid 
wetting the surface of the bed and foliage of the plants more than 
can be helped. Apply a good lining to the bed, and admit air con¬ 
stantly to allow the moisture to escape and so prevent its deposition, 
as would be the case on the foliage and flowers were the lights closed. 
Keep the growths thin, fertilising the flowers as they expand, and at 
the same time stopping the shoots one joint beyond the fruit. Similar 
precaution will need to be taken in dung-heated pits and frames 
where the fruit is ripening, as in a close moist atmosphere it is liable 
to crack and be deteriorated in flavour. Admit a little air constantly, 
raising the fruit on inverted flower pots. Maintain a good bottom 
heat of 85° to 90^ for young growing crops, and a moist atmosphere, 
syringing freely, except when the fruits are setting or ripening, 
stopping the laterals, and prevent crowding by cutting out super¬ 
fluous growth. It is now important that the late plants should be 
planted without delay, therefore clear out as soon as possible 
those which are exhausted, and prepare for a fresh start at the 
earliest opportunity. 
Cucumbers .—Fire heat will only be necessary in very dull cold 
weather to maintain a temperature artificially of 70° to 75°; but in 
the case of making new beds gentle bottom heat either by means 
of hot-water pipes, dung, or tan should be secured. If either of 
the latter is employed do not plant out until the heat, if it exceed 90°, 
is on the decline. Earth up from time to time those plants which 
have been in bearing some months, maintaining a firm condition 
about the roots. Apply liquid manure copiously once or twice a 
week, and maintain plenty of atmospheric moisture in hot weather. 
Syringe freely, and close the ventilators about 4 P.M. on fine days. 
Shade no more than necessary to prevent flagging. Fumigate if 
aphides appear, dusting with flowers of sulphur against mildew. 
Use the knife freely, cutting out exhausted growths and bad foliage 
frequently, stopping one or two joints beyond the fruit, avoiding 
overcrowding and overcropping as the greatest of evils. Now is a 
good time to sow a few seeds for autumn fruiting; and as it will 
take from three to four weeks to secure sturdy plants, make the 
necessary preparations in preparing the dung, if such be used for 
bottom heat, and soil, thoroughly cleansing the house in the mean¬ 
time. Continue to train and earth up plants in pits and frames, and 
when warm rains prevail remove the lights for a few hours in the 
afternoon. Keep the growths well thinned out and stopped, damping 
the foliage at about 4 P.M., closing at the same time. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove .—Assiduous attention must be given to cleansing plants 
from mealy bug and scale by the application of an insecticide with 
brush or sponge, taking care not to injure the young growths and 
flower buds. Red spider often seriously disfigures Dracaenas. The 
best remedy is to sponge the leaves, especially on the under side, 
immediately the insects are detected, as if allowed to increase the 
plants will in a few days be spoiled in appearance. Thrips can be 
kept under by fumigation, but to be effectual it must be repeated on 
two or three consecutive evenings. Syringing should be practised 
on such plants as are liable to be attacked with insects, directing the 
water forcibly against the under side of the leaves, and a moist at¬ 
mosphere should be secured by damping available surfaces frequently. 
Fire heat may be dispensed with provided the solar heat is sufficient 
to maintain by judicious closing a minimum temperature of 70° to 
75°. Allamandas, Dipladenias, Bougainvilleas, and other free-grow¬ 
ing plants soon exhaust the soil and fall off in their flowering 
towards autumn when most wanted, but when well managed they 
flower continuously all through the summer and autumn : in order to 
render them timely assistance surface-dress the soil with good manure, 
and apply liquid manure liberally. 
Cuttings of most hardwooded plants are now in a half-ripened 
state and will root freely, and where there is not the convenience of 
affording a brisk heat early in the season it will be well to strike all 
that will be required now, and keep them slowly growing through 
the winter. It is best to insert the cuttings singly in small pots, 
as then there i3 no check consequent on potting off where several 
cuttings are inserted in a pot. Amongst flowering plants amenable 
for propagation now may be mentioned Gardenias, Tabernaemon- 
tanas, Ixoras, Medinillas, Stephanotis, Dipladenias, Clerodendron 
both the climbing and shrubby species, Combretums, Thunbergias, 
Rondeletias, Bougainvilleas, rEschynanthuses, and others of similar 
character. 
Ferns. —Plants that did not require more root space at the time of 
the general potting in spring will now require it, and if not repotted 
they will get into a stunted state before spring. In potting use 
material of such a character that water can percolate freely by em- 
