July SO, 1882.1 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
67 
to which they have since been subjected ; had you done so we should have no 
doubt been better able to have given a more explicit reply ; but we repeat the 
injury is not caused by insects of any kind nor mildew. If the plants were 
healthy when you received them they have been subjected to some error in 
treatment. 
Thuia aurea Dying ( Castle Park). —We regret extremely the loss of such 
splendid specimens. Our opinion as to the “ probable cause of death ” is general 
debility consequent on the exhaustion of the soil, and the severe winters im¬ 
mediately following. We have known many specimens seriously injured and 
some killed during the past three years. This was undoubtedly due to extreme 
frost, which specimens deficient in strength and vigour were unable to resist 
—that is to say, old examples succumbed while some younger and stronger 
in the same collection survived. This Thuia produces a great mass of 
fibrous roots which do not extend to any great distance, and consequently 
after some years of growth the soil becomes quite exhausted. This is the reason 
why so many specimens become unhealthy and portions commence dying after 
a growth of twenty years, more or less, according to the nature of the soil. 
There is only one method of which we are aware of arresting the decay of such 
specimens, and that is to act promptly on the first signs of exhaustion by first 
removing the sterile soil as far as the roots extend ; then if the soil is dry, as it 
generally is, saturate it with weak liquid manure, and next and last adding 
fresh compost, such as good loam and wood ashes with a slight admixture of 
bonemeal. This will incite vigorous root-action, the effects of which and the 
food appropriated will soon be visible in the renovated specimens. Occasionally 
healthy specimens succumb to intense and prolonged frost. In Col. Drummond 
Hay’s pamphlet, published by the Dundee Horticultural Association, this Conifer 
is included in the list of those that sustained injury by frost in 1881. 
Cropping Vines (A. J. L). —It is next to impossible to say how many 
bunches of Grapes may safely be left on a Vine even if, as in your case, the length 
of the rod is stated. It ought to be obvious to all that one bunch weighing 
3 Its. requires more support than two bunches do that weigh 1 lb each. Some 
Vines are more heavily cropped with a weight of a pound of fruit to every foot 
run of rod than others that have twice that weight. We never consider Vines 
too heavily cropped that continue producing strong sub-laterals freely beyond 
the bunches up to the time the fruit is ripe. When the production of such 
laterals ceases when the fruit is half grown it is an indication that the Vines are 
overweighted with fruit, however few bunches there are. This, we submit, is a 
simple test for determining what is a safe crop for established Vines to carry. 
The “Queen of Flowers” (Mrs. Milner). —The following is perhaps 
the passage to which you allude relative to the origin of the above name “ in 
connection with references to the Greeks and Hebrews.” It was from the pn 
of Mr. G. W. Johnson, and first appeared in this Journal upwards of thirty 
years ago :—“ The Dose delightful to everybody, so has it been in all ages and 
in all countries. It is the Habrtzeleth of the Hebrews, and among them was 
regarded as the most grateful of flowers. ‘ Come, let us fill ourselves with costly 
wines and perfumes—let no flower of the spring pass us by—let us crown our¬ 
selves with Rose buds before they are withered,’ are the words attributed to the 
sensualist in the Wisdom of Solomon. It is the Rndon of the Greeks, and, like 
the Hebrews, they chose it for chaplets at their banquets, and as a gift most 
acceptable to those whom they loved. Anacreon only gave popular customs a 
poetic dress when he wrote— 
“ ‘.To make the beverage divine 
Mingle sweet Roses with the wine 
Delicious will the liquor prove, 
For Roses are the flowers of love ; 
And while with wreaths of Roses crown'd 
Let laughter and the cup go round.’ 
“ Sappho joins in adulation of the flower, and our readers will see that the 
trite epithet of ‘ the Queen of Flowers,’ was first bestowed upon the Ro;e by that 
‘ Tenth Muse.’ 
“ * Would Jove appoint some flower to reign 
In matchless beauty on the plain, 
The Rose (mankind will all agree), 
The Rose the queen of flowers should be; 
The pride of plants, the grace of bowers. 
The blush of meads, the eye of flowers ; 
Its beauties charm the gods above; 
Its fragrance is the breath of love.’ ” 
Large Palms and Ferns (R. S. L.). —The names of your plants are 
Alsophila australis, Dicksonia antarctica, Latania borbonica, and Phoenix 
dactylifera. We know of no other method of disposing of them than by adver¬ 
tising, stating particulars relative to their size and condition. There are many 
large plants for disposal now. If you prepare an advertisement and send it to 
the publisher he will inform you of the price for its insertion. 
floral decorations, and were largely employed last year, as they are this, in tip 
arrangements of flowers for the furnishing of dinner tables and the adorumeiD 
of rooms. 
Charcoal as a Manure (II. J. G.). —You ask “if charcoal is of any 
good for flowers, and if so how ? ” As you do not say whether the “ how ” 
refers to its action or to the mode of using, we answer both questions by a 
citation from our manual “ Manures for the Many.” “ Charcoal is a most effi¬ 
cient manure to all cultivated plants, especially to those under glass. Heaths, 
Rhododendrons, Cucumbers, Onions, Roses, Orchidaceous plants. Hydrangeas, 
Camellias, Melons, and Pine Apples have been the subjects of extensive and 
most successful experiments. We think no cultivated plant would be un¬ 
benefited by having charcoal applied to the soil in which it is rooted. It should 
be broken into small pieces? about the size of a nut, and, for potted plants, may 
be mixed in the proportions of one part charcoal to twenty parts earth. If 
applied to the open ground one-fourth of a bushel may be sown over a square 
rod or perch, and dug-in just before inserting the crop. The reason of charcoal 
being so useful as a manure is very apparent. MM. Sennebier, Saussure, and 
others have demonstrated that plants are rendered much more luxuriant and 
productive by having carbonic acid applied to their roots than other plants to 
whose roots no such application was made. Now, charcoal kept moist, ns when 
buried in the soil, slowly combines with oxygen, and emits carbonic acid—in 
fact, it slowly dissolves. For drainage in flower pots none better can be em¬ 
ployed than 3 inches in depth of pieces of charcoal about the size of a filbert.” 
Soot for Plants (Idem). —Your question on this fertiliser we also_ answer 
from the same work, which can be obtained post free for 4Jrf. “ Soot is one of 
the most powerful and permanent of manures if dug into the soil. It is the 
volatised unconsumed portion of common coal. It is thus constituted :—Char¬ 
coal, 371 ; salts of ammonia, 426 ; salts of potash and soda, 24 ; oxide of iron, 50 ; 
silica, 65 ; alumina, 31; sulphate of lime, 31 ; carbonate of magnesia, 2. It is 
an excellent manure for Peas, Onions, Carrots, and probably all garden crops. 
An excellent liquid manure is soot mixed with rain water, in the proportion 
of one tablespoonful of soot to a quart of water, for plants in pots ; but for 
Asparagus, Peas, Ac., six quarts of soot to hogshead of water. It must never 
be applied to plants in a state of rest. It suits bulbs admirably.” 
Mites in Soil (J. II.). —They are not the same as those referred to, nor 
nearly so injurious; in fact, unless in great numbers, they do not appear to do 
any appreciable injury to plants. They have been introduced with the soil, and 
may be extirpated by applications of clear lime water, or petroleum applied at 
the strength of half an ounce to a gallon of soft water, and well mixed by violent 
agitation. The condition of the Stephanotis will indicate whether it has sus¬ 
tained any injury or not. If the plant is healthy its non-flowering is not the 
result of either mites or maggots. The roots are healthy, and there are no nodo¬ 
sities on those before us. If there are nodosities on the Cucumber roots they 
are the result of Vibrios, which ruin the plants. You will find references to two 
forms of Cucumber disease on page 479 of our last volume, the issue of June 8th, 
1882. The root disease is clearly illustrated in our issue of November 1st, 1877, 
and the number can be had in return for 3 ^d. in stamps. Numbers containing 
information relative to the disease that attacks the stems and fruit can also be 
had ; they are enumerated on the page first quoted. The leaves you have sent 
appear to have been attacked by red spider, and are also more or less scorched. 
They are quite insufficient in themselves for anyone to determine the precise 
cause of their present condition. Cannot you make a fire and scorch the soil 
before using it ? This would destroy all animal life, and greatly improve the 
fertility of the soil. 
Pruning Filberts (S. M., Notts).— The fruit is produced principally on 
the former year’s wood, and generally from compact side shoots, the produce of 
leaders of a short-jointed and mature appearance. Such lateral fruit-bearing 
branches may be induced in greater abundance by shortening back strong 
shoots of this character. Thinning-out, however, is one of the principal matters, 
for unless this be duly attended to the bush will become crowded with worse 
than useless spray ; it will also obstruct the light from the bearing portions, as 
well as hinder the circulation of air. A great deal of small spray will be pro¬ 
duced on the inner portions of the branches; and this, although of the character 
of bearing wood, is generally unfruitful, and must therefore be mostly pruned 
away. Anj’one who observes the habit of the Nut closely will soon see that the 
shrubs are most disposed to bear at the extremities of the branches, thus evin¬ 
cing their partiality to plenty of light and air. These, then, are the portions of 
the tree where the eye must be directed as to fruit-bearing properties. The 
leaders, however, must not be encouraged so thickly as to cross each other, and 
in order to prevent the lower portion of the head from becoming naked a good, 
strong, well-placed shoot may be occasionally encouraged, heading it back in 
due time in order to keep it producing side branches. After duly thinning 
away superfluous shoots the principal leaders should be all shortened. As a 
general rule, we would say, Renfove about a quarter of the length. This will 
cause the tree to produce abundance of side spray, from which in the future 
spring the fruiting shoots may be selected. 
Watering Azaleas (Subscriber ).—Wehave never yet seen pots so crowded 
with roots that we could not learn the condition of the soil as regards moisture 
by rapping them with the knuckles or a wooden mallet, and we have had plants 
8 feet high and which had occupied the same pots for ten years. However, it 
appears you cannot determine the matter by this test, doubtless because you 
have not had many years of education in the work. There is one thing you 
must remember—namely, there is far greater danger in underwatering than 
ovcrw'atering such plants as you describe, especially during their growing 
season. We can ascertain whether the soil in a pot is dry or wet by rubbing 
the pot with great pressure with the finger. If the soil is wet moisture will in a 
moment or two follow the friction ; if dry, it will not do so. It will probably 
not be safe for you to rely on this test at once, but you might nevertheless try 
it and note the results. The simplest method of determining when to apply 
water throughout the summer will be by rubbing your finger firmly on the sur¬ 
face of the soil. When the soil is not pasty—that is, if it crumbles even in the 
slightest degree, apply water at once in sufficient quantity to moisten every 
particle of soil in the pot. If once the soil becomes really dry such plants will 
sustain injury that may be very serious. Clear weak liquid manure given once 
a week would no doubt be of great benefit to the Azaleas, but not to the 
Epacrises. 
Yellow Sweet Sultan (il. L. G.). —This is the popular name of the plant 
of which you have enclosed a flower, its botanical name being Centaurea suaveo- 
lens. It is an annual, and grows freely in fertile garden soil. It is advisable to 
sow the seed thinly in pots or boxes towards the end of March or early April, 
raising the plants in a frame, and when large enough transplanting them in 
other boxes, and thus have them strong and early for planting out in May. 
They will grow equally well, however, but not flower so early, if the seed is sown 
in the open ground at the end of April or the beginning of May. We have 
plants thus rai.-ed just commencing flowering. The flowers are very popular for 
Names of Fruits (J. M. J/.).—It is almost impossible to name Straw¬ 
berries from one or two single fruits and a leaf, even if the fruits arrir e sound 
and fresh; in this case they were almost shapeless, and wo can only say the 
flavour resembles that of the variety Dr. Hogg. 
Names of Plants (IF. Cranstcick).— 1, Loliurn perenne (common Rye 
Grass); 2, Festuca duriuscula (common Fescue Grass); 3, Avena pratensis 
(Meadow Oat Grass); 4, Triticum flavescens (Yellowish Oat Grass) ; 5, Festuca 
gigantea (Tall or Giant Fescue Grass) ; 6, Festuca pratensis var. elatior (Tall 
Meadow Fescue Grass). (IF. Alison).— 1, Gynmogramma peruviana argyro- 
phylla ; 2, Achrophorus affinis ; 3, Adiantum pubescens ; 5, A. decorum. The 
Selaginellas cannot be named except better specimens arrive in a fresh state, 
and particulars are supplied relative to the habits of the plants. (IF. G.). 
1, Caladium esculentum; 2, Gymnogramma chrysopbylla ; 3, Caladium Chan- 
tinii; 4, Ananassa sativa variegata. (Keswick). —The specimen is quite insuffi¬ 
cient for identification, as such a scrap must necessarily be by having been 
wrapped in dry cotton wool, and simply enclosed in a letter. We have many 
times stated that that is the worst of all methods of sending specimens, as the 
dry wadding invariably extracts all the moisture from small soft sprays. We 
shall require a larger specimen to arrive fresh to enable us to determine the 
name of the plant. (J. II.). —1, Doronicum pardalianches ; 2, feisyrinchium 
alatum; 3, Phlomis fruticosa ; 4, Erigeron glabellum ; 5, Conium maculatum. 
(R. A. P .).—The Buttercup-like flower is Limnanthes Douglasii. The small 
white flower we cannot determine, as it was much crushed in transit. (F. M.). 
—Chrysanthemum segetum (the Corn Marigold). (IF. D ).—Eryngium amethys- 
tinum. (M. A.). —Struthiopteris germanica. 
Dead Drone (Clifton ).—'The cause of the protrusion from the abdomen of 
the dead drone found in your garden cannot be traced or explained. A very 
