JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
78 
[ July 27, 1882. 
more open and deeper cleft than E. albicans, deep red at first, chang¬ 
ing to purplish crimson, presenting a very attractive appearance, and 
lasting a long time in beauty—June to September—and last year it 
ripened seeds freely, especially those flowers which expanded first. 
I notice different authorities quote this as a biennial, but my ex¬ 
perience is to the contrary, as after flowering the plant was more 
vigorous, forming fresh tufts of foliage, and showed no signs of 
decay, and it passed the severe winter of 1880-81 without any pro¬ 
tection. I received seed from Dr. Regel of Petersburgh, from which 
the plants were raised in a cold frame treated as ordinary hardy- 
plant seeds generally are, and this appears to be the only method 
of securing stock of it. It requires a well-drained position with a 
good depth of soil, the rockery being the proper home for it, and the 
effect it gives is very striking and novel.—T. R. 
DOUBLE-FLOWERED DELPHINIUMS. 
The Delphinium has maintained its position in our gardens 
after being cultivated for a very long period as a perfectly hardy 
plant, especially D. formosum and its varieties and congeners. 
Later on there have been introduced several other species, very 
variable, from the tall deep blue-flowered kinds, which, however, 
are not so showy, nevertheless they are equally desirable in our 
gardens, such as the scarlet D. cardinale, which is a strange diver¬ 
gence in coloration from those we have been accustomed to see, and 
D. nudicaule of the same colour, but not such a good plant. It 
would be grand if we could get scarlet-flowered varieties with the 
robust and hardy characteristics of the D. formosum series. At 
present we see no chance of expecting such, therefore so far we 
must remain content with our sturdy blue-flowered kinds, which, 
however, very materially vary in point of colour. There are not 
wanting indications in many of the varieties of a disposition to 
break out into crimsoD. 
The double-flowered varieties of Delphiniums are especially 
worthy the attention of floriculturists, however humble their pre¬ 
tensions ; these should be well cultivated. It is insufficient to 
give them such illiberal treatment as is frequently afforded the 
single varieties. A good rich soil is necessary—not very stiff, for 
as a rule they prefer a free soil. Deep digging is essential. In 
planting these and double Pyrethrums I have the ground tho¬ 
roughly dug two spits deep— i.e., when cultivating them in beds, 
and a liberal supply of manure is well worked in the soil, and the 
plants are arranged about 3 feet apart each way ; or for the first 
year they may be planted 18 inches apart, and when necessary 
every alternate plant can be removed to make room for the proper 
development of the re^t. Before the stems are very high it is ad¬ 
visable to stake them, as strong winds are apt to break them down, 
for the heads of bloom are very heavy. They may be increased 
soon after flowering by dividing the roots, which usually bud out 
freely at the crown of the rootstock at that time. The stools 
should be raised and carefully cut, leaving each division with as 
good a supply of roots as possible ; or they may be split up in the 
same way in early spring, transplanting the newly made plants as 
speedily as possible after the operation, well pressing the soil 
about them. If the roots are split up into very small poi tions they 
should be placed into 60 or 48-sized pots, and be transferred to a 
cold frame until root-action is resumed, and thus re-establish them, 
when they may without fear of loss be planted out again in beds 
or borders. With border cultivation there is not the convenience 
for deep digging as in the case of a bed, as many other plants 
might be unfairly disturbed ; but at the same time the soil where 
the plant is to be placed can be deeply broken up and well en¬ 
riched with manure, and if a little trouble is incurred it is more 
than likely a good reward will be obtained. Double and semi¬ 
double-flowered varieties may also be raised from seed, as that is 
the means by which all the beautiful kinds at present known to 
us have been obtained. It is advisable, where good double forms 
exist, to keep them well separated from the other varieties if the 
seed is required tr: e ; and although it is probable that only semi¬ 
double flowers may be obtained from the seedlings, yet they may 
be novel, or at least well worth growing, as they are frequently 
very showy, producing large and variously coloured flowers. Seed 
may be sown in the open border after it is ripe, where it speedily 
germinates, and the ycung plants may in due course be trans¬ 
planted where they will bloom the ensuing season. Or it may be 
raised in pans in a cold frame, the seedlings being pricked out 
when large enough. 
To those unaiquainted with these flowers the following selection 
of varieties may be serviceable. I have grown besides them many 
others perhaps equally desirable ; in fact there are a very great 
number of first-class kinds, and that number is constantly increas¬ 
ing, and, speaking generally, they are all good. Amedeo Hans, 
feet high ; spike very full, with large flowers bright sky blue 
with white centres. Barlon-i , a very old semi-double kind, little 
more than 2 feet high, with flowers of a deep blue colour shaded 
with bronzy red. Barlowi perfectum is an improved form of the 
last, with dense spikes of rich indigo blue flowers shaded with 
crimson ; a very effective and dwarf kind, not more than 2 feet 
high, but one mass of bloom. Cairo Courant , 4 feet; fl iwers very 
large and double in dense spikes, bright sky blue throughout; 
very free and fine. Grandiflorumplenum is a scarce plant, 2 feet 
high, with immense branching spikes of large double flowers, dark 
shining blue shaded with bronzy red ; a most distinct and con¬ 
spicuous variety, and when once established it is a most magni¬ 
ficent plant. Exquisite , 4 feet; flowers semi-double, in great 
spikes of a rich cobalt blue suffused with rosy lilac ; very large 
and showy. Globe, 2 feet; a very effective kind, with dense 
spikes of very double flowers of a rich lavender tint, with paler 
centres. Hermann Stengcr, a favourite, 4 feet, with very long 
branching spikes of large very double flowers ; outer petals bright 
purplish blue, centre ones rosy purple ; a most showy variety and 
very free. Eugene Verdier, 3 to 4 feet, with dense spikes of very 
double flowers like a Ranunculus ; outer petals violet blue, inner 
ones blue, with white star-like centres ; a most distinct and novel 
form. Keteleeri, 3 feet, with dense spikes, freely branched, of 
flowers of a rich lavender blue tint wflth white centres ; a much- 
esteemed and free-growing variety. M. Lc Bihan, 3 to 4 feet, with 
a large central spike half as long as the whole stem, densely set 
with large semi-double flowers ; outer petals bright glistening 
blue, inner ones rosy purple ; most conspicuous. Pompon Bril¬ 
liant, 2 feet, very robust, with long spikes densely packed with 
large very double flowers, rich violet-blue outside, with the centres 
reddish-purple. Ranunculi forum, 3 to 4 feet ; spikes very freely 
branching, and crowded with double rosette-like flowers, with 
the outer petals rosy-purple edged with light blue, and the inner 
ones paler in colour ; very effective. Star, 3 feet, with long pyra¬ 
midal spikes of full double flowers, pale azure blue, with white 
star-like centres ; a most persistent bloomer. Triomphe de Poissey, 
3 feet, with medium-sized flowers on very full spikes, semi-double, 
shining sky blue, tinted with pink ; very free. Robert Parlter, 
3 to 4 feet, with dense spikes of large very full flowers of a clear 
violet blue colour ; a most distinct variety. VictorLemoine, 3 to 
4 feet ; spikes very large, filled with large perfectly shaped flowers, 
very double, clear sky-blue outside, with white centres.—N. 
LATE VEGETABLE CROPS. 
The present is a good time to see to these. Many varieties of 
vegetables may be sown now to give supplies in late autumn and 
throughout the winter. At these seasons abundance of good 
vegetables are just as much valued as any during the early part 
of the season, and it should be remembered that variety is very 
desirable in most cases, and as this is more difficult to secure in 
winter than summer timely provision should be made for it. 
Colemorts .— Seed of these which come in throughout the winter 
in a form resembling young Cabbage may yet be sown, and the 
seedlings planted out when large enough in rich ground. They do 
not grow very large, and may stand 18 inches apart each way. 
Winter Spinach .—This comes best from the prickly variety, 
and should be sown now and again in another month. Nothing 
is more useful in the kitchen in winter than this, and a good 
supply of it will compensate for many deficiencies. Those who 
think it is a worthless vegetable to grow and valueless at the 
table are mistaken. If it is not grown so extensively as it should 
be it must be because its merits are not known. South borders 
and open sunny quarters are good positions for present and subse¬ 
quent sowings. The drills for the seed should be 18 inches apart 
and 2 inches deep. Soil from which Potatoes or any other crop 
has been recently taken will be found to suit Spinach. Mode¬ 
rately rich ground suits it well ; when too rich it is liable to grow 
soft and not stand cold weather uninjured, and when too poor the 
leaves are not so succulent as they should be. A good breadth of 
it may be sown at once. When the plants are 2 or 3 inches high 
some should be drawn out, and this may be done again until the 
plants for the permanent crop are 8 < r 10 inches apart. After this 
the leaves will expand freely, and they should be gathered before 
they become too old, only the centre ones being left to yield fresh 
supplies, which they will continue to do until very severe weather 
stops their progress. Autumn-sown Spinach plants do not gene¬ 
rally flower until spring, and until then gathering may be done as 
sufficient growth is made. 
Carrots .—Varieties of the Early Horn section, if sown on a 
south border now, will give some useful little roots late in autumn, 
and these are much valued. Large old Carrots are useful in 
many ways in winter, but they cannot take the place of small 
delicate young roots, and those may be secured by attending to 
these notes. In our district the spring-sown Carrots have been 
