July 27, 1882.] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
91 
diffusing knowledge of the art in various ways. The Central Com¬ 
mittee have wisely determined that such experts should hold certifi¬ 
cates, and have made arrangements for annual examinations. The 
prizes gained by the several competitors at the South Kensington 
Show will be distributed in the large conservatory by H.S.H. The 
Duke of Teck'on Saturday, August 5th. 
TRADE CATALOGUE RECEIVED. 
Ant. Roozen & Son, Overveen, near Haarlem, Holland.— Catalogue 
of Bulbs. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Fumigating Grapes (Anxious). —“We advise you to proceed cautiously 
in fumigating a vinery in which the Grapes are “ ripe and ripening.” A far 
safer and more effectual method of destroying the thrips will be to apply an 
insecticide with a sponge or spray-distributor. 
Large Foxgloves (Foxglove). —We have never seen a Foxglove 13 feet 
high, and we consider your plant, which you say is 8 feet high by 3 feet 9 inches 
in diameter, and producing nearly five hundred flowers, a very satisfactory 
example of culture. Such well-grown plants of good varieties have a grand 
effect in those shrubbery borders where space is afforded for their development. 
“ Orange Fungus on Rose ( G. 0. L.). —The leaves you have sent are 
seriously attacked with this fungus. We know of no better remedy than spong¬ 
ing them with a solution of sulphate of copper prepared by dissolving 2 ozs. of 
blue vitriol in a little hot water, and then adding two or three gallons of cold 
water. If any of our readers can inform us of a better mode of destroying the 
fungus we will readily make it known. 
The Swan River Daisy (H. M.). —We can scarcely plead guilty of causing 
you disappointment, since your question was answered on page 45 of our issue of 
the 13th inst.; it is the second reply on the first column of the page quoted. 
We are glad to learn we have been of service to you in the management of bees ; 
it is not all apiarians who have the satisfaction of recording the taking of “ lots 
of honey this year.” 
Melons—Old v. New Seed (F. C.). —As a rule Melon plants raised 
from seed many years old grow less vigorously than those raised from new seed, 
yet after all the question of vigour is very much a question of seed and treat¬ 
ment. If you pursue the method that has previously given you satisfaction 
you will doubtless succeed again. Many more Melons are grown every year 
from new than from old seed, and over-luxuriance can be checked by making 
the soil very firm, and not having it very rich. Pure, fresh, and rather strong 
loam is suitable, and if the plants do not grow freely enough they can be stimu¬ 
lated with liquid manure. 
Striking Pansy Cuttings (Idem). —They may be inserted now, choosing 
the young growths that have not pioduced flowers, and which are not hollow. 
Rather rich yet light gritty soil surfaced with sea sand will be suitable, the 
sand having been for some time exposed and washed by the rain or artificially. 
We should not use any fertiliser, as it might be injurious where there are no 
roots to absorb its virtues. Slugs may be kept in check by dustings of fresh 
lime or soot applied at night when they are moving and feeding, not in the day 
when they are lurking in their haunts. Insert the cuttings in a shaded position, 
but not under trees. 
Old Primulas (Idem). —We have occasionally seen old Primula plants 
flower excellently a second season, and many times seen them fail. Everything 
depends on the condition of the plants and the treatment to which they are 
subjected. If the plants are healthy you may try them by removing all dis¬ 
coloured foliage and premature flowers, removing also a portion of the old soil 
and adding fresh, rich, and gritty compost. There is great danger in over¬ 
potting old Primulas, and possibly the pots your plants are in will be large 
enough, but you afford us no data for expressing a definite opinion. Other 
questions will be answered in a future issue. 
Fananas (C. S.). —In your search for information you have evidently over¬ 
looked an article on page 417 of our last volume, the issue of May 25th of the 
present year. Several species of Musas are there referred to, and the cardinal 
points of culture pointed out. If you require further information, and will 
specify your wants and state your convenances for growing Bananas, we shall 
be glad if we can aid you in accomplishing your object. 
Striped Pelargoniums (E. M.). —All varieties having striped flowers are 
of a sportive nature, and liable to revert to the normal form, especially when 
too generously cultivated. If the Zonal variety, New Life, is planted out in 
rich soil it grows strongly and often produces scarlet flowers, but if grown in 
a pot and partially starved the flowers generally retain their peculiarity. It is 
undoubtedly advisable to select growths for propagating that produce striped 
flowers, and the plants should not be grown in large pots nor rich soil. The 
same remarks apply to the other variety of which you have sent a specimen. 
That is all the “ secret ” there is about the matter that we are aware of. 
Onions versus Beetroot (Ignoramus). —In a collection of ten sorts of 
vegetables shown in July we should prefer the white winter Onions, which you 
state measured 15 inches round and were “ very handsome,” to “ coarse Pine 
Apple Beet.” You will find by reference to previous issues of this Journal that 
the former are invariably included in the premier prize collections staged at the 
London shows, and the judges are generally disposed to favour Onions rather 
than Beet. Both, however, may well be included in a collection of ten sorts. 
Mulching Rose Beds (.4. M. B.). —In very dry seasons and districts the 
method you propose might with advantage be adopted, but it will scarcely be 
necessary to mulch the beds now, as the earth is moist, and Roses generally have 
made good growths, heat being now needed for their maturation. There is one 
contingency that should not be overlooked in mulching beds with grass from an 
orchard—namely, the liability of filling the ground with weeds, some of which 
may be very difficult to extirpate. 
Exhibiting Pelargoniums (S.J.). —Both the classes to which you direct 
our attention appear clear enough. The first stipulates for twelve distinct 
single trusses, and more cannot be staged. In the second the term “ bunches ” 
has no doubt been inserted studiously, not accidentally, and means that several 
individual trusses may be grouped together to form the requisite number of 
bunches, and you cannot be disqualified by so exhibiting them, as you would be 
in exact conformity with the schedule. Size of trusses is an important property 
in a Zonal, but much less so in a Show and Fancy Pelargonium ; hence, no 
doubt, the distinction that has been made, and which is not unusual. 
Insects on Plum Trees—a Dilemma (C. A. J.).— We fear we cannot 
tell you what to do under the circumstances, but will give the purport of your 
letter in case any of our correspondents may be able to suggest a remedy. “ The 
undersides of nearly every leaf of a standard Plum tree are thickly covered with 
aphides. From its position the tree cannot be syringed, nor can anything be 
burned under it; what can I do ?” We repeat, we have no clear idea of what 
you can do in such a case ; nor can we tell you how to banish house flies from 
your room, much as we desire to aid you in obtaining what you long for—“a 
few moments’ peace.” 
Roses Unhealthy (IF. Waterfield). —The leaves you have sent indicate 
that your plants are in a debilitated condition, the consequence of sterile soil. 
In such a case they are peculiarly liable to be attacked by the black fungus. We 
advise you to give very copious supplies of liquid manure at once, and also at a 
convenient time to remove the soil from over the roots, and as far as they ex¬ 
tend, and apply a heavy dressing of rich manure. This will stimulate the pro¬ 
duction of stronger growths and larger and stouter foliage, which will probably 
not be attacked by the fungus. At the same time dissolve 3 ozs. of soft soap in 
a gallon of water, and with this syringe or sponge the plants, dusting the leaves 
when they are wet with flowers of sulphur. The stamens in the flowers of culti¬ 
vated plants vary considerably, often exceeding the normal number, especially 
when they are very vigorous. Six stamens is the usual number in the Ixioli- 
rions and other allied plants, and the exception you have noticed was due to the 
cause named above. 
Tomatoes (Ilortus).— The proper mode of training Tomatoes can only be 
determined by circumstances. Grown outdoors we do not stop our plants until 
they have produced four or live trusses of flowers. The plants are then topped, 
all the axillary growths pinched out, and all subsequent growths pinched as 
fast as they appear. The whole strength of the plant is then directed to the 
support of the fruit and the principal foliage, and some of this also is removed 
to prevent the fruit being too much shaded. The same system may be adopted 
under glass, but training another growth that issues after topping as a leader if 
the space to be occupied is not covered. See also the plan recommended on 
page 64 of our last week’s issue. You would find Mr. Iggulden’s manual on the 
Tomato useful; it can be had from this office post free for Is. Id. 
Planting Bulbs in Turf (Narcissus). —All the free-growing Narcissuses 
will grow well in your churchyard if the soil is moderately fertile, together with 
the other bulbs you name. Any time from now to the end of September is a 
good time for planting; but it is not sufficient to make holes with the dibber 
and drop the bulbs in them, as the surroundings are then often so hard that the 
roots cannot readily take possession of the soil. The proper plan is to take up a 
square of turf with the spade and dig up the soil to the depth of a foot, and 
place the bulbs so that when the turf is replaced they are 3 inches below the 
surface. Thus treated they root freely into the loosened soil. When the turves 
are placed on again they will be slightly above the general level, but will not 
remain so for long. If you object to this a little of the soil can be spread on the 
grass, which it will benefit. Snowflakes and Snowdrops may be planted 2 inches 
deep. 
Vegetable Marrows not Thriving (SherbrooTc ).—The recent very cold 
nights have seriously checked the growth of Vegetable Marrows, especially 
where they have no artificial beat to the roots by fermenting materials. In all 
probability your plants are suffering also by the want of support. We should 
give them warm liquid manure, soot water being good for them, and not permit 
them in their present weak state to mature their fruit. If you cut the fruits 
when they arc 4 or 5 inches long they may be 18 inches apart, but if you suffer 
them to grow large you must not allow them to be half so numerous. There is 
nothing unusual in Lilies of the Valley producing seeds, but if these are allowed 
to mature they exhaust the plants and prevent the formation of strong crowns 
for producing future flowers. 
Grubs on Primulas (F., Ashbourne Ilall). —These are the larvm of one of 
the Weevils (Otiorhynclms sulcatus), insects very injurious in gardens both as 
larvse and beetles. Usually they enter the pupal stage before this time, appear¬ 
ing as beetles in August. These attack the Vine and various fruit trees, par¬ 
ticularly at night, afterwards resorting to succulent plants to deposit their 
eggs 3 ust below the surface of the earth. They may be searched for with a 
lantern, and to keep them off plants in pots it has been recommended to water 
with a clear solution of lime or with soot water. We have recently heard that a 
very diluted solution of carbolic acid, a few drops only in a quart of water, 
proves particularly distasteful to them. If eggs are deposited, the larvte hatch 
in September, hybernate, and feed up in the spring and summer, when they do 
the most damage. 
Pruning Espalier Fruit Trees (F. R.).— The best method to pursue 
can only be properly determined by the condition of each tree. Assuming your 
trees are established and in a bearing state, at the same time healthy, we may 
say generally that the plan followed by your gardener appears to be right in 
principle, and that suggested by yourself in a certain sense right too. If, 
instead of the shoots not wanted being cut out entirely now, they had been pre¬ 
vented forming by disbudding in Apri 1, those selected to remain would have 
had a better chance of assuming a fruitful habit. Still, it would not be wise to 
do as you suggest—namely, permit these to grow unrestrictedly. They should 
be shortened in June or July to within four or five leaves of the base, the axil- 
