112 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ August a, i8 82 . 
varieties of Peaches are advanced (Early Beatrice being ripe), and 
•will need daily attention in gathering the ripening fruit, which 
should always be done before it falls from the trees, as they are 
benefited rather than otherwise by being allowed to lie for a day or 
two in the fruit room. In gathering the Apricots and Peaches great 
care should be exercised, as the slightest undue pressure is sufficient 
to injure the tender tissue, decay commencing and spreading rapidly. 
Gooseberries, Cherries, Raspberries, and all soft fruits should not be 
gathered until they are required. Morello Cherries must be protected 
from birds, and after hanging a time these Cherries form excellent 
table fruit, esteemed highly by some persons. In order to the preser¬ 
vation of the fruit to a late period a few bushes of Red Warrington 
or other late sorts of Gooseberry, together with Red and White Cur¬ 
rants, should be covered with nets to preserve the fruit to a late 
period. Hexagon netting should be used in preference to mats. The 
latter ought never to be used, as they exclude air and light, engen¬ 
dering damp, which altogether very soon deteriorate the flavour of 
the fruit. 
Mildew sometimes appears on the foliage of the Apricot, especially 
Royal, Blenheim, or Shipley, and should be combatted by thoroughly 
dusting the trees with flowers of sulphur. Grape Vines on walls will 
need similar attention, likewise Peaches and Nectarines. Continue to 
regulate the shoots of Vines, removing all superfluous growths, keep¬ 
ing them as close to the wall as possible without touching, and the 
berries on each bunch should be carefully thinned. Keep the leading 
shoots of wall-trained trees of all sorts carefully and closely nailed or 
tied in, and continue to remove or stop superfluous or foreright 
shoots, in order that the young wood retained may become thoroughly 
ripened. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Figs .—The fruit on the earliest-forced Fig trees in pots, if a second 
crop was taken, will be ripe ; and as soon as the fruit is gathered the 
foliage should be thoroughly cleansed, dressing the trees if red spider 
be present with a solution of 4 ozs. of soft soap to a gallon of water. 
A free circulation of dry warm air will need to be maintained in the 
house until the wood is thoroughly ripened and the leaves give indi¬ 
cations of maturity, when the trees may be placed outdoors in a 
warm situation and be plunged in ashes to the rim of the pots, which 
will induce their resting quickly ; but when there is any doubt about 
the maturity of the wood they should be kept under glass and the 
house freely ventilated, lessening the supply of water, only giving a 
little to prevent the foliage becoming limp and falling prematurely. 
The second crop on early-forced planted-out trees will be ripening 
fast, and syringing must cease, and a circulation of dry warm air 
should be maintained constantly to secure well-coloured highly 
flavoured fruit. After the fruit is all gathered an occasional syring¬ 
ing may be given to cleanse the foliage of red spider and dust. Trees 
that ripened their first crop in June will now have a second crop 
swelling, and must be liberally supplied with liquid manure at the 
roots and have the mulching kept wet to encourage surface-rooting, 
syringing them daily to keep red spider in check. 
Cherry House .—The roof-lights can now be removed to give the 
trees the benefit of full exposure, which is essential to arrest prema¬ 
ture growth, to which Cherry trees, with other stone fruit subjected 
to early forcing year after year successively, are peculiarly liable. 
Although the leaves are not now particularly inviting to red spider 
its progress must be checked by a good washing occasionally, and if 
there be any black aphides destroy them by the prompt application 
of tobacco water or other insecticide. See that the border is suffi¬ 
ciently moist, for it must not be allowed to become dry, supplying 
liquid manure if the trees are not too vigorous. Trees in pots should 
be regularly attended to, and the foliage maintained in a healthy 
condition as long as possible. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—The trees in the late succession houses 
should receive every attention as regards syringing to keep red spider 
in check, and watering the inside borders whenever they become dry. 
To assist the swelling of the fruit to a good size close the house early 
in the afternoon, with plenty of atmospheric moisture, and allow the 
temperature to rise to 85°, admitting a little air before nightfall, and 
ventilate early in the day to prevent the foliage being scorched. To 
assist in the perfect colouring and ripening of the fruit it should be 
exposed as much as possible to the influence of the sun and air by 
removing some of the foliage; and where the fruit is on the under side 
of the trellis the shoots should be untied, and the fruit brought up to 
the light, being kept in position by laths placed acioss the wires. Tie 
and regulate the shoots, keeping the laterals closely pinched to one 
joint of growth. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Flower beds now require frequent attention to remove dead or 
decayed leaves and flowers. Seed pods of Pelargoniums, Verbenas, 
and indeed all kinds of bedding plants, should be removed immediately 
the petals fall, as the production of seed, besides giving the beds a 
shabby appearance, tends greatly to the exhaustion of the plant. 
Verbenas should be frequently examined and kept well thinned, so as 
to bring up fresh shoots and insure continuity of flowering. Calceo¬ 
larias, Violas, Lobelias, Verbenas, and similar plants must have an 
abundant supply of water in dry weather, but the first-named should 
not be watered overhead or the flowers will be filled with water and 
fall off. Free-growing plants, such as Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 
variegatum, Stellarea graminea aurea, and others employed for 
carpet bedding, soon encroach on others of less growth if not fre¬ 
quently trimmed. The marginal and other lines forming the dif¬ 
ferent patterns should be kept clear and distinct, or the effect is 
greatly marred. 
Continue the sowing and pricking-out of hardy perennials, such a3 
Carnations, Picotees, Wallflowers, and Brompton Stocks, as soon as 
large enough to handle. Stocks, Asters, Marigolds, and Zinnias should 
be well supplied with water or plentiful supplies of liquid manure. 
Dahlias and Hollyhocks will need to be securely staked and be well 
supplied with liquid manure. Continue to stake and tie the various 
border flowers as they advance in growth, and remove dead flow'ers 
and seed pods from such as are going out of bloom. Pipings of 
Pinks may still be inserted, and any that are rooted should now be 
planted out where they are intended to bloom. Carnations and Pico¬ 
tees if not yet layered should at once be attended to. The summer 
bloom of Roses is now nearly over, and all straggling shoots should 
at once be cut in, and every encouragement given the plants to make 
young wood for autumn blooming. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse .—The removal of the specimen hardwooded plants out¬ 
doors will allow more room to the young growing stock, which are 
usually kept during the early part of the season in pits with brick 
sides, which does not allow of sufficient light reaching the lower 
branches ; hence they should now be removed to the more open 
situation occupied by the larger plants previous to the latter being 
placed outside. They should be raised near to the glass and be 
placed thinly so as to be exposed to all the air and light necessary to 
mature their growth, ventilating freely both day and night. 
Camellias .—The general stock of plants are now setting their 
flower buds, and this is unquestionably the best time for repotting, 
as there is not the danger of giving a check, as is the case in spring, 
by disturbing the roots when they are starting into growth ; but in 
carrying out the repotting now— i.e., after the buds are set, it is 
imperative that it be done before these are larger than a small 
pea, for if deferred longer it is likely the buds will drop from the 
effects of moving. As to soil, we prefer turfy loam taken off a couple 
of inches thick where the soil is inclined to be light and full of fibre, 
but where this cannot be had fibrous peat should be used. It should 
not be stacked longer than to destroy the grass, or it may be em¬ 
ployed fresh, as when much decomposed it is no better than ordinary 
soil, and qertainly not equal to leaf soil. Do not break the turf very 
fine, and do not interfere with the roots more than is necessary in 
removing the crocks and any portions of the ball not occupied with 
roots, making the new soil as firm as the existing ball. Good drain¬ 
age is essential, with sufficient sand to keep the soil open. Avoid 
overpotting. 
Primulas from seed sown in spring should now be sufficiently 
advanced for moving into larger pots. Good fibrous loam three parts, 
and a part each leaf soil and well-decayed manure with a sprinkling 
of sand, will suit them well. A light pit, where abundance of air 
can be given and a thin shade afforded from powerful sun, is the 
