August 10, 1882. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
181 
generally known, therefore I shall describe it in detail. When 
the plant is well established large fleshy roots are freely produced 
about the thickness of straw ; these may be taken from the plant 
any time from early spring till autumn, and, of course, it is only 
advisable to remove as many roots as necessary to secure sufficient 
stock, or the plant will suffer severely. The roots should be cut 
into pieces an inch or more long with a sharp knife, and dibbled 
thickly in pots of soil and covered with sharp silver sand, so that 
the upper end of the cutting is just level with the surface of the 
soil, which should be made up of loam, leaf soil, and sand, with 
the pots thoroughly drained ; and when filled .with the root-cut- 
tings the pots should be placed in a cold frame and kept close and 
shaded during bright sunshine, if the pots are covered with a bell- 
glass so much the better. All things being equal, the upper ends 
of the cuttings will be well callused in a few days, and a bud or 
buds will be formed, while the lower end emits roots ; and in due 
course young plants will be fully formed, which should be’ care¬ 
fully potted in the same kind of soil with some pieces of char¬ 
coal finely broken, and placed in a cold frame kept close until 
they are quite established, when they may be exposed or planted 
out in the open ground. If kept in pots it is advisable to plunge 
the pots in some suitable material. By this means there is no 
difficulty in propagating the plant by the thousand if required. 
To begin with, it is preferable to purchase plants rather than seeds, 
Fig. 23— ilANDEVILLA SUAVEOLENS. 
as the latter more frequently cause disappointment than otherwise. 
—Hoetus. 
MANDEVILLA SUAVEOLENS. 
When planted out in a border and trained to the rafters of 
a greenhouse or conservatory Mandevilla suaveolens is both 
attractive and useful, the pure white, exquisitely fragrant, bell¬ 
shaped flowers being produced very freely during early summer 
if the plant be in a satisfactory condition. A compost of two-thirds 
good turfy loam and one-third of peat, sand, and leaf soil suits 
it very well, but occasional supplies of weak liquid manure will 
prove beneficial when growth is advancing. The shoots must be 
trained in a position where they will be well exposed to light, and 
it is advisable to allow some of the young growths to hang free, 
as the plant then has a more graceful appearance. Care is needed 
to keep the plant clean, as insects, such as scale or mealy bug, 
are frequently rather troublesome. During winter comparatively 
little water is needed, giving only sufficient to keep the soil 
moderately moist. 
CHLORA PERFOLIATA GRANDIFLORA. 
This was the name under which the late Mr. G. Joad, who was 
a good botanist, used to grow the brilliant biennial, mentioned by 
your correspondent on page 32 as being so ornamental in the plan t 
house in the Botanic Garden at Cambridge. Mr. Joad told me 
that he did not know its origin, but that he believed it to be a 
variety of the wild British plant C. perfoliata. 1 he large-flowered 
southern natural varieties of some native species, with their many 
variations in form, are so deceptive that it is seldom safe to dis¬ 
believe in identity because of difference in appearance. We are 
told that the grandiflora forms of Prunella are nothing but con¬ 
tinental forms of P. vulgaris ; and our common wild Bluebell 
(C. rotundifolia) is sold under at least a dozen different names, some 
of them being giant alpine forms, but several of them found on 
English and Welsh mountains. But many of us would like to 
know the history of this Chlora, which is not yet common in seed 
