August 10,1882. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 139 
derived. When the] fruit is sliced and placed upon a sieve a perfectly limpid 
and colourless juice flows out, which after a short time becomes turbid, and in 
the course of a few hours begins to deposit a sediment. This, when collected 
and carefully dried, is very light and pulverulent, of a yellowish-white colour 
slightly tinged with green ; and this is genuine elaterium, which will purge 
violently in the dose of one-eighth of a grain. The mode in which it is obtained 
at Mitcham is to slice the fruit longitudinally in halves, and then press it with 
considerable force, wrapped in a hempen cloth, with a common screw-press. 
The juice is then strained through a hair or wire sieve and set aside to deposit, 
which usually is completed in three or four hours. The liquor is then carefully 
poured off, the deposit is placed on calico cloths resting on hair sieves, and 
allowed to drain for about twelve hours, after which it is removed with a knife, 
spread over small cloths, and dried on canvas frames in a drying stove. About 
half an ounce of elaterium is obtained from 40 lbs. of the fruit. 
Learning Gardening (Wild Rose). —There is a great difference between 
what you said in your previous letter and in the one now before us. There arc 
many, we fear, who have not so much time for study as is desirable ; still by 
utilising even odd moments diligently an earnest man will not fail. You had 
better work perseveringly in a small place for a year or two, not attempting what 
is beyond the resources of the garden, but whatever you undertake do well. 
First experiment with such free-growing plants as Coleuses, Fuchsias, Chrysan¬ 
themums, Pelargoniums, Balsams ; then as you succeed with these you will be 
gathering knowledge that will enable you to grow such other plants as are 
within your means. Vine culture is easily learned. We do not advise at first to 
procure the expensive work referred to, but get the “ Cottage Gardener’s Dic¬ 
tionary ” (price 7s. C d.), our “ Garden Manual ” (price Is. 6if.), our “ Vine 
Manual ” (price 3,«.), •' Pearson on the Vine ” (price Is.), cur “ Window 
Gardening” (price 9 </.), and “Greenhouse Manual” (price 9 d.). You will 
thus at a trifling outlay have a small gardening library of great value. But 
apart from the information contained in these works you must study current 
gardening literature. Read the Journal of Horticulture regularly and atten¬ 
tively, and never a week will pass that you will not obtain knowledge that will 
bring you nearer the goal you appear to be laudably desirous of attaining. 
Ornamental Cucurbits (Lorrimore).— 1 Several members of the family 
Cucurbitacem, exclusive of the large 
Gourds, are ornamental when well 
grown, such as Cucumi3 perennis 
with globular green fruits streaked 
with white; Cucumis metuliferus 
with lemon-shaped j eliow or scarlet 
fruits covered with short thick 
protuberances; Cucumis dipsaceus 
with buff or bright green fruits. 
Rut one of the prettiest is Cucur- 
bita melopepo depressa, shown in 
fig. 24. Of this the fruits are bright 
yellow, regularly striped with green 
from base to apex. A charming 
little plant of this class, when well 
grown, is Cucumis prophetarum, 
also known as C. grossularioides, 
the Gooseberry Gourd, as it is 
popularly termed from the resem¬ 
blance the fruits bear to Goose¬ 
berries. They are freely produced 
in pairs from the axils of the leaves, 
and are very evenly streaked from 
fpex to base with dark green and 
yellow alternately. An excellent 
illustration of this species was 
given in this Journal, page 181, 
vol. iii, new series. The seeds of all such plants should be sown in heat, after¬ 
wards affording them similar treatment to Cucumbers—namely, a good tempe¬ 
rature and abundance of water. 
Clematises in Pots (J. E.). —The following particulars respecting the 
culture of Clematises in pots were given by Mr. Bardney on page 349 in No. 45, 
vol. ii., new series '—If the plants are in 5-inch pots when obtained, and are 
well rooted, they should be transferred to 7-inch pots. The pots should be well 
drained, the old drainage being removed and the roots disentangled. This ope¬ 
ration will cause no injury, as they are strong-rooting plants. Potting is best 
done a short time before the plants are started into growth. A shift into a 
larger pot every year, according to the progress they have made, is sufficient 
until they are placed into 10 or 12-inch pots, which are large enough for decora¬ 
tive purposes. When in the last-named size annual potting is still recommended 
_that is, by removing a portion of the old exhausted soil, renewing the drainage, 
and again placing them in the same sized pot with fresh soil. The soil cannot 
be too rich ; good rich loam, a third of decayed manure, and coarse sand to 
render the whole porous will suit them well. While growing Clematises require 
liberal applications of water at the roots, and in no stage should the soil be 
a’lowed to become very dry. When the pots are full of roots stimulants can be 
liberally supplied. After potting, if the plants are placed in a temperature of 
45° to 60°, they soon commence growing. When the wood is nearly mature the 
shoot can be tied to stakes and the plants placed outside, where they may be 
allowed to remain until the approach of frost, and then be protected in a cold 
frame or house. The earliest-blooming varieties of the Patens section, of which 
Lady Londesborough is the type—one of the freest, earliest, and best for forcing 
—will, if gently started at the commencement of the year, produce a few flowers 
in the spring. This section furnishes the most varieties suitable for pot cul¬ 
ture, especially for early flowering during February, March, and April. Most of 
the varieties flower profusely and require no pruning, as the flowers are pro¬ 
duced on the previous year's wood. There is but little difficulty in inducing 
plants to flower early ; one or two seasons’ early starting is sufficient. Our 
plants commence growth in a cold frame towards the end of November. Hie 
following varieties are arranged in the order they flower :—Lady Londesborough, 
Standishii, Miss Bateman, Albert Victor, Lord Londesborough, The Queen, Sir 
Garnet Wolseley, Fair Rosamond, and Sophie flore-pleno. Some further parti¬ 
culars are also given in the same article upon propagating Clematises. 
Layering Carnations (A Youncj Gardener).— Layering should be done as 
soon as possible after the shoots are long enough to be pegged down easily, and in 
the following manner, as detailed in our manual “ Florists’ Flowers for the 
Many.” A layer is a branch or shoot brought down to the ground, and when 
rooted separated from its parent. The materials wanted for layering are a sharp 
small knife, a quantity of hooked pegs (the fronds of the common Brake or Fern 
are the best, though the pegs may be made of Birch or Hazel), and some finely 
sifted soil. When the shoots round each plant have made fire or six joints or 
pairs of leaves, chooce a dull cloudy day on which to perform the work ; or, if 
the plants are in pots under an elevated awning, they may be layered in any 
weather. Commence by trimming off the leaves from the bottom of a shoot, 
leaving the two uppermost on and entire. Trim off the lower leaves on every 
shoot before layering one, because when a layer is tongued it is easily broken 
off. When this is done take hold of the shoot, turn it up, and pass the knife 
blade through the third joint upwards, commencing the cut just below it; then 
reach a hooked peg, thrust it into the soil, catching hold by its hook of the 
layer as it descends, and press it gently down to the soil. Do the next in the 
same manner, and so on till every shoot is layered, then cover them all with the 
sifted mould about three-quarters of an inch deep, and that pot or plant is com¬ 
pleted ; then give a slight watering, and the layers want no further care till 
they are rooted, which will be in about a month or six weeks. Examine them 
occasionally, and as soon as roots are emitted pot them off into 5-inch pots, a 
pair in each ; or, if y r our space is limited and the layers small, three may be put 
into each pot. After they are potted they should be placed under glass in a 
cold frame or pit, plenty of air being given in mild weather and shelter from 
severe frost when it occurs. Very little water is required through the winter 
months, and the air in the frame should be kept as dry as possible. Should 
damp prevail, the plants some fine day should be taken out and fine dry coal 
ashes spread on the surface. The plants should be replaced in the pit. 
Rhyncliospermum jasminoides not Flowering (TV., Chelmsford). 
—Overpotting is probably the chief cause of y r our plant not flowering. Small 
pots, well-ripened wood, and a moderate temperature are three important points 
in the culture of this plant. Take your plant out of the hothouse at once to a 
sunny airy position in a greenhouse or orchard house, give only enough water 
from the present time till March co keep the foliage healthy, and keep the plant 
in the greenhouse where the usual winter temperature of 40° to 45° is main¬ 
tained, thus letting the winter be a period of complete rest. In March cut off 
any bare old growth and thin any that is crowded, shortening the remainder to 
induce a plentiful growth of young shoots, at the ends of which the flowers 
should appear. Just as growth begins shake out the plant from its large pot 
and examine the roots; if they are crowded in the soil and the drainage is good 
replace in the same pot, but if there is much soil without roots then remove it 
and repot in a size or two less, picking as much of the old sour soil from among 
the roots as possible, ramming hard some fresh sweet soil around the ball. As 
the growth makes progress give more water, but do not remove the plant from 
the greenhouse till the flowers fade, then turn it out of doors, standing the pot 
upon a bed of coal ashes in any open yet shaded nook, and keep it there till the 
autumn. 
The Cherry Plum (J. V. W.). —The fruit you send is known by the above 
name. It is also known as Early Scarlet, Miser Plum, Myrobalan, and Virginian 
Cherry r . It may be used in the dessert more as an ornamental variety than for 
its flavour, but it makes excellent tarts. Ripe in the beginning and middle of 
August. The young shoots are smooth, s’ender, and thickly set with buds. 
This is the Prunus myrobalana of Linnteus. It is frequently grown in shrub¬ 
beries and clumps as an ornamental tree, where in spring its profusion of white 
flowers render it an attractive object. 
Names of Plants ( Constant Reader). —IVe do not undertake to name 
varieties of Coleuses. (X. L ).—1, Fuchsia gracilis; 2, Herniaria glabra; 3, 
Escallonia macrautha. (IT. R. S.). —1, Pteris quadriaurita; 2, Adiantum tene- 
rum ; 3, Asplenium cicutarium ; 4, Selaginella Martensii. ( R„ York). —1, Reti- 
nospora obtusa ; 2, Cupressus Lawsoniana ; 3, Quercus cerris ; 4, Thuia orientalis. 
(//. IL ).—Rhua Cotinus. 
Removing Supers from Hives (J. McNair ).—This is the easiest and 
most pleasant work of the apiary. First cut the super from the hive by drawing 
a piece of brass wire or twine between them. If any nails or impediment pre¬ 
vent the wire from cutting them asunder use a thin table knife. Then raise, by 
using wedges of wood or slate, the super about three-eighths of an inch above 
the hive, so that the bees will clean out the honey from the broken cells. This 
they will do well in about an hour. Then get some rags or brown paper dipped 
in a solution—weak solution—of saltpetre and dried. A few puffs of the smoke 
and smell of this saltpetre blown in at the top of the super will cause all the bees 
to leave the super and run downward into the hive with all possible speed. In 
wooden supers a gimlet hole answers for the admission of the smoke. In glass 
globes without holes in their crowns let the smoke play on the bees by some 
means, and the bees will fly out quickly. It is very desirable to get the bees 
out of supers as soon as possible, so that their combs remain pure and unspotted, 
and nothing can answer for this better than using saltpetre. 
CO VENT GARDEN MARKET— AUGUST 9TII. 
Tin? market is still quiet, owing to the holidays, scarcely any business of note 
being transacted 
FRUIT. 
H. 
<1. 
s. d. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
0 
OtoO 0 
Lemons. 
case 
20 
etc 
30 
0 
Apricots. 
box 
1 
6 
2 0 
Melons. 
each 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Cherries. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Nectarines. 
dozen 
4 
0 
12 
0 
Chestnuts. 
bushel 
0 
0 
0 0 
Oranges . 
100 
4 
0 
G 
0 
Currants, Black.. 
4 sieve 
5 
0 
0 0 
Peaches . 
dozen 
4 
0 
12 
0 
„ Red_ 
J sieve 
2 
G 
3 G 
Pears,kitchen .. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
dozen 
4 
0 
0 0 
dessert. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Fiiberts. 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 0 
Pine Apples, English it. 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Cobs. 
loo ft. 
0 
0 
0 0 
Raspberries. 
lb. 
0 
3 
0 
G 
Gooseberries .... 
i sieve 
« 
6 
3 6 
Strawberries .... 
lb. 
U 
G 
1 
U 
Grapes . 
it. 
i 
0 
4 0 
VEGETABIES. 
9 
d. 
3. d. 
3. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
2 
0 t o 4 O 
Lettuces . 
score 
1 
Otol 
G 
Asparagus. 
bundle 
0 
0 
0 0 
Mushroom s . 
. punnet 
1 
0 
1 
G 
Beans,Kidney ... 
lot) 
i 
0 
0 0 
Mustard & Cress 
.punnet 
0 
0 
3 
1 
o 
2 0 
. bch. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 6 
Parsley. doz.bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts. 
\ sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Parsnips . 
. dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
o 
1 0 
. quart 
0 
10 
0 
Capsicums. 
100 
1 
G 
2 0 
Potatoes . 
cwt. 
6 
0 
n 
i 
0 
Carrots . 
Cnuii flowers. 
bunch 
dozen 
2 
4 
O 
0 G 
3 0 
Radishes_ doz .bunches 
1 
0 
0 
6 
(Jelerv. 
bundle 
l 
fi 
2 0 
Rhubarb. 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 0 
Salsafv. 
. bundle 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Cucumbers. 
each 
0 
4 
0 G 
Scorzouera . 
bundle 
1 
3 
0 
0 
Endive. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 0 
Seakale . 
basket 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Fennel. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 0 
Shallots. 
lb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
G rlic . 
lb. 
0 
6 
0 0 
Spinach . 
. bushel 
3 
0 
0 
0 
bunch 
9 
0 0 
Tomatoes . 
. lb. 
0 
2 
0 
4 
Leeks. 
. bunch 
0 
3 
0 4 
1 Turnips . 
bunch 
0 
G 
0 
0 
Fig. 24.—Cucurbita melopepo depressa. 
