August 31, 1882. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 211 
appear to have been lost in transit. There was one leaf in the box much 
scorched, and this indicates that the ventilation has been defective. If the 
house is exposed to the early morning sun, and is not opened before nine o’clock, 
that would during hot weather account for the scorching and the unsatisfac¬ 
tory condition of the Vine. On bright mornings the top lights ought to be 
opened slightlj 7 two or three hours sooner. Possibly, too, you have not given 
sufficient water. Dig into the border to a depth of 2 feet, and if the soil is in 
the slightest degree dry give a heavy watering at once. The laterals should 
be thinly disposed so that the leaves of one do not overlap those of the other, 
and they should be stopped as frequently as is needed so as to secure the full 
exposure of the leaves to the sun. By adopting this practice, ventilating early 
and watering sufficiently with liquid manure if needed, the Vine, assuming that 
it makes fairly good growth, ought to bear useful Grapes. When the roof of a 
house is covered Vines on back walls seldom bear well. The Black Hamburgh 
foliage is very unsatisfactory, small, thin, and affected with mildew. Syringe 
with a solution of soft soap, and dust the leaves with sulphur. We feel convinced 
there has been some error in ventilation, if not in other points of management. 
Have you not a good practical gardener and successful Grape-grower near you 
who would inspect the Vines and give you advice thereon ? If this course is 
practicable we think it advisable. 
Forcing Roses in Pots (A Constant Reader). —You do not say whether 
you prefer Tea or Hybrid Perpetual Roses, but as you require them about 
Christmas you will have to rely upon Tea varieties for producing blooms at 
that season of the year. During winter “ good blooms ” cannot well be pro¬ 
duced, but beautiful delicate buds may be had in quantity by growing such 
kinds as Safrano, Isabella Sprunt, and Due de Magenta, which are only good 
in the bud at any season. The first two are decidedly the best for early flower¬ 
ing, and the first has the good character of unfolding its buds if cut in a very 
small state when placed in water. Niphetos, Catherine Mermet, and Rubens 
will form a good succession to the above, and flower profusely during the 
month of February. The best Hybrid Perpetuals are La France, Comtesse 
d’Oxford, Anna Alexieff, Jules Margottin, Alfred Colomb, Victor Verdier, Sene- 
teur Vaisse, Madame Lacharme, Magna Charta, Duke of Edinburgh, and General 
Jacqueminot. The first three can be had in flower by the end of January, and 
the following three if started a little later will form a good succession ; the 
remainder will bloom well any time during the month of March or April. The 
best way for you would be to obtain plants ready established in pots which are 
prepared in quantity, both Tea and Hybrid Perpetual varieties, by the majority 
of well-known nurserymen. These plants are not prepared and ripened suffi¬ 
ciently early to produce flowers at the time you want them. The Tea kinds 
might be obtained to produce flowers at Christmas if you obtain them at once 
and then keep them slowly growing, and to achieve real success they should be 
grown earlier each year and rested, when they will in a very short time flower 
almost naturally at the time you want the first batch to bloom. You will 
find a good practical article on producing Roses at Christmas in the Journal 
for December 25th, 1879. 
Wiring a Vinery (P. 11. P.). —We prefer having the wires stretched from 
end to end, parallel with the front and back plates. Galvanised wire will be 
safe provided it is well painted. In some districts it is injurious when not 
painted. The size of the wires is not material, this depending on the number of 
small rods that are screwed into the (rafters or sashbars, the rods having eyes at 
the end for supporting the wires. In the large vinery at Longleat, where 
neither the Vines nor bunches are pigmies, the wire is not much thicker than a 
stout knitting needle, and the lines are 10 inches apart. They should be 18 inches 
from the glass if the height of the house permits ; many Vines are injured by 
the.foliage crushing against the roof. It is quite immaterial whether you 
plant five or six Vines ; there is room for six, and the shade which they cast on 
plants does not depend so much on the number of the rods as on the laterals that 
proceed from them. If you have six Vines and the laterals are not nearer than 
2 feet apart, you will, with good culture, obtain fine Grapes, while many kinds 
of plants will succeed in the house as well. The question of securing light for 
the plants is simply one of thinning and stopping the laterals. 
Furnishing Orchard House (I. E.). —We can now quite understand your 
proposed arrangement, the plan making it quite clear. We have observed that 
owners of orchard houses have distinct objects in view. One cultivator re¬ 
quires the greatest bulk of good fruit, produced in the easiest manner regardless 
of the form in which the trees are trained, and of the varieties, provided what 
he has are good; the other finds much pleasure in testing varieties and systems, 
hoping also to obtain good crops. This is, a3 your plan suggests, the class of 
cultivators to which you belong. From that point of view your proposed 
method of furnishing the house is good, and we think it can be carried out 
successfully subject to one condition—namely, removing the trees, or some of 
them, in pots to a sheltered position in the open air to mature their fruit after 
it is set and the weather has become favourable. To leave all the trees in the 
house throughout the season would sooner or later result in overcrowding, and 
both the trees in pots and those planted out would sustain injury. The plan 
we have suggested of removing the trees in pots and plunging them in a warm 
position in the open air is practised with great success by Mr. Rivers at Saw- 
bridgeworth, and he finds the plan in every respect satisfactory. The trellises 
across the back border, which we presume will be taken up to the roof, will 
shade the wall considerably ; and instead of planting two trees at A, A, in your 
plan, we should prefer one placed in the centre of the space between the trellises 
to be trained as vertical cordons ; you would thus have room for five trees 
exactly opposite the five trees in pots next the walk. These trees as they 
become large would undoubtedly shade the wall unduly, but we should prevent 
this by placing the trees outside in June, or when it would be safe and proper 
to do so, and by this plan you would insure a longer succession of fruit than if 
the trees remained in the house. For carrying out this plan successfully it is 
essential that the trees be not started into growth early in the spring. 
Compost for Vine Border (.Amateur). —We cannot do better than 
quote the reply to a correspondent last year who asked for a recipe for a first- 
class Vine border :—“As you require to know how to make a ‘first-class Vine 
border,’ we will state how the Vine borders at Arkleton were made, and append 
the results achieved by Mr. Dickson, the late gardener there. In the first place 
the borders rest on several feet of gravel, so that the important condition of 
perfect drainage is provided by Nature. The inside border is 14£ feet wide and 
3£ feet deep ; the outside border is of the same width and the same depth in 
front, and 2£ feet deep at the edge next the walk. The Vines are planted inside, 
and have free access to the outside border. The components of the soil are 
flbry loam of medium texture taken from an old sheep pasture, and to every 
twelve cartloads of turf were added two cartloads of old lime rubbish, one cart¬ 
load of horse droppings, one .'cartload of charcoal, and 5 cwt. of inch bones. 
The turf was fresh from the field, mixed well with the other ingredients, and 
wheeled into the border without lying exposed. Tint may be taken as a first- 
rate recipe for a Vine border, judged at least by the following results, which are 
certainly ‘ first-class.’ In the year 1869, at the Edinburgh International Exhi¬ 
bition, the first prize was awarded to Mr. Dickson for a bunch weighing 16J lbs.; 
in 1870 the first-prize bunch at the Royal Caledonian Society’s Show weighed 
19 lbs. 5 ozs. ; in 1871 the first-prize bunch at the same Society’s Show weighed 
18 lbs. 7 oz3.; in 1872 the first-prize bunch at Glasgow weighed 19J lbs. 6 ozs.; 
in 1873 at Manchester the prize bunch weighed 16 lbs. 1 oz.; and in the same 
year another bunch at Glasgow weighed 16 lbs. 10 ozs.; then came the bunch 
produced in 1875, weighing (by the Judges) 25 lbs. 15 ozs. We do not advise 
you to make the border its full width now. A width of 4 feet will probably be 
sufficient the first year, the front being supported with a wall of turf. If the 
soil is in the right condition as to moisture—that is, moderately moist but not 
wet—you may press it down slightly as it is placed in position, and it will not 
afterwards settle to do any harm. Making a border is only one element in 
Grape culture. If you would like fuller particulars of Mr. Dickson’s practice 
you will find them recorded in Nos. 757 and 758 of the Journal, the issues of 
September 30th and October 7th, 1875. If you do not possess these numbers 
they can be had from the publisher, price 3 } 3 d. each.” The most useful variety 
of Grape for an amateur is the Black Hamburgh, a Vine or two of Foster’s Seed¬ 
ling being added if white Grapes are needed. The best time for you to plant 
Vines will be in the spring when growth is commencing; but the Vines should 
be had in pots this autumn, and be kept very cool during the winter. If the 
pots are plunged in leaves or ashes in a shed they will be quite safe. 
Potting Liliums (11. Jones). —Pot them immediately after the flower stalks 
become yellow, and instead of taking the bulbs quite out of the so l, tmn the 
plants out with the ball entire. Remove the surface soil down to the crown of 
the roots, and cut the stalk or stems off at that point. Next remove the drainage 
and any soil that comes away easily. Clean the pot inside and replace the 
drainage with an inch of the rougher parts of the compost over it, work the soil 
carefully around the roots, and cover the crowns about an inch deep. The pot 
should be about three parts full, the remaining space being filled afterwards. We 
use a compost of two-thirds turfy loam a year old from decayed turves cut 
3 inches thick, and one-third leaf soil or turfy peat, with a free admixture of 
sand. 
Names of Fruits (M. C. Ii .).—The Peaches are not ripe. If the tree has 
small flowers the variety is Royal George; if large flowers, Early York. 
(J. P. 11.). —The Apple is in all probability a seedling, and, although it may be 
useful and bear w’ell in your district, has no commercial value. (IF. Watson ).— 
We seldom received fruits in a worse state by inefficient packing. The Apricot 
is possibly Brussels, the Nectarine is bruised beyond recognition. 
Names of Plants (C. S. D.). —No. 1 is Hypericum Androstemum. Its 
common name is Tutsan, which is thus quaintly explained by Gerarde—“ The 
leaves laid upon broken shins and scabbed legs healeth them, and many other 
hurts and griefs, whereof it took its name Tout-sain or Tutsane—healing 
all things.” The Welsh call it the “ Blessed Groundsel ” in reference to its 
reputed curative properties. No 2 is Potentilla argentea, and No. 3 Impa- 
tiens Balsamina. (Preston ).—The greenhouse plant is Diplacus glutinosus ; the 
Orchid is Maxillaria picta. (K. C.). —We have maDy time stated that it is im¬ 
possible for us to undertake to name varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Zonal 
Pelargoniums. There are far too many so closely resembling each other, that the 
only satisfactory mode of determining the names of varieties is to compare them 
with those in a large collection. Florists from whom plants are purchased are 
usually able to supply the names of good specimens that are sent to them. All 
the petals had fallen from the trasses you sent to us ; a little clear gum applied 
to the centre of each flower would have prevented this. The herbaceous plant 
is Lychnis coronaria. (A. R .).—1 and 2 are varieties of Selagiuella Martensii; 
3 is a Begonia, but, as we have repeatedly stated, we do not undertake to name 
varieties of the fine-foliage section. All Selaginellas are included in the order 
Lycopodiaceoe, and are correctly termed Lycopods, but not Lycopodiums. 
(F. S .).—Achillea serrata (Goose-tongue), an old garden plant now nearly lost, 
formerly grown in every cottage garden. (II. J. G.). —1, Agrostis alba, White 
Bent Grass ; 3 and 4, Agrostis canina, Dog s Bent Grass ; 5, Festuca duriuscula, 
Common Fescue Grass; 8, Trisetum flavescens, Yellowish Oat Grass; 6, Glyceria 
fluitans, Floating Meadow Grass ; 9, probably an Arundo, a miserable scrap ; 
10, Festuca pratensis, Meadow Fescue Grass. If you send again we must ask 
you to submit better specimens. The others were not in a condition to be 
named, even if you had not exceeded the regulation number. (F. L. P .).—1 is 
Phygelius capensis, a native of South Africa, having been discovered in Caffer- 
land about thirty years ago. It is included in the order Scrophulariacete; 2, 
Plumbago Larpentte, also known as Valoradia plumbaginoides, a Chinese plant. 
(M. II. S .).—Scabiosa caucasica. 
COYENT GARDEN MARKET— AUGUST 30TII. 
T HADE remains quiet, without any practical alteration in supplies or prices. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
s. d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
3 
ft to 7 ft 
Lemons. 
20 
0to30 
o 
Apricots. 
doz. 
i 
0 
1 6 
Melons. 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Cherries. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Nectarines.. 
2 
0 
10 
0 
Chestnuts. 
bushel 
0 
0 
0 0 
Oranges .... 
6 
0 
1ft 
0 
Currants, Black.. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Beaches .... 
2 
0 
1ft 
0 
„ Red.... 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Pears,kitchen .. dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Figs. 
dozen 
4 
0 
0 0 
dessert .... 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Filberts. 
lb. 
0 
6 
0 0 
Pine Apples, 
English tb. 
8 
0 
4 
0 
Cobs.. .• •• 
100 tb. 50 
0 
0 0 
Raspberries . 
. lb. 
0 
0 
ft 
0 
Gooseberries .... 
4 sieve 
b 
0 
0 0 
Strawberries 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Grapes . 
lb. 
i 
0 
4 0 
VEGETABLES. 
8 
d. 
s. d. 
8. 
d. 
9. 
d. 
2 
ft tn 4 ft 
1 
ft tn 1 
G 
Asparagus. 
bundle 
0 
0 
0 0 
M nsbrooui s 
1 
0 
1 
0 
Beans, Kidney .... 
100 
1 
0 
0 0 
Mustard & Cress ..pHnnet 
0 
2 
0 
8 
Beet, Red. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 0 
Onions. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 6 
Parsley. 
doz.bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts.. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Parsnips .... 
1 
0 
2 
0 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 0 
0 
1ft 
ft 
ft 
Capsicums. 
100 
1 
6 
2 0 
Potatoes .... 
6 
0 
7 
0 
Carrots . 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 G 
Kidnev.... 
6 
ft 
s 
0 
Cauliflowers. 
dozen 
2 
0 
3 0 
Radishes.... 
doz .bunches 
1 
0 
0 
6 
Celery. 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 0 
Rhubarb .... 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Coleworts... ,doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 0 
Salsafy. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Cucumbers. 
each 
0 
4 
0 6 
Seorzonera 
1 
« 
0 
ft 
Endive. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 0 
0 
ft 
0 
0 
Fennel. 
bunch 
0 
S 
0 0 
Shallots .... 
. tb. 
ft 
3 
0 
4 
Garlic . 
tb. 
0 
6 
0 0 
Spinach .... 
3 
0 
0 
0 
Herbs. 
bunch 
ft 
2 
0 0 
Tomatoes .. 
. tb. 
0 
2 
0 
ft 
Leeks. 
bunch 
0 
8 
0 4 
Turnips .... 
. bunch 
0 
ii 
0 
0 
