360 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ October 19, 1882. 
designs laid on moss surrounded the base of the font, while the 
pillars were festooned with Ivy and white Clematis, and the basin 
hung with Roses, single Dahlias, Anemones, Begonias, and other 
flowers, as well as choice fruits. The whole was surmounted with 
a cross formed with Grapes, Aucuba leaves, and a semi-double 
Dahlia which I do not remember having seen before. Groups 
formed of flowering and fine-foliage plants, fruit, and cut flowers 
were disposed in each window sill, and all the gas standards were 
wreathed and otherwise decorated. By daylight the general 
effect was good, but in the evening when lighted up it was most 
beautiful, and we could but heartily wish the clergy of every 
church or place of worship could command such ready help from 
the owners of gardens, and such a staff of willing workers as are 
to be found among the ladies and gentlemen of Frome. It ought 
to be mentioned the fruit and flowers are subsequently distributed 
among the sick poor.— Spectator. 
ALNWICK SEEDLING GRAPE AT CHISWICK. 
A CONTRAST. 
Last year complaints were not infrequent that this compara¬ 
tively new and undoubtedly good late Grape was a “bad setter.” 
The fruit unquestionably failed to set in many instances, and un¬ 
satisfactory bunches containing a number of pea-like berries were 
too numerous ; even where artificial fertilisation had been resorted 
to, but perhaps imperfectly performed, the bunches were not so 
full nor the berries so regular as is desirable. The impression, 
however, that such aid is requisite for securing a good crop of 
any Grape is an obstacle against its free cultivation, and with 
the object of testing the character of Alnwick Seedling as a 
“setter” it was determined, wisely under the circumstances, Chis¬ 
wick being an experimental garden, to treat this Vine the same as 
others in the same house—the Black Hamburgh, Gros Colman, 
and Alicante—that is, not to have recourse to any artificial means 
for setting any of them. The result was that the last three named 
—and there is a great number of Vines of the two later sorts—set 
their fruit perfectly in every instance, all the bunches being full, 
and the berries well formed, laige, and regular. But it was dif¬ 
ferent with Alnwick Seedling. Of this there were, and are, three 
or four Vines of the same age and strength as the others planted 
at intervals along the house, and in every position the formation 
of the berries was most unsatisfactory, the bunches being practi¬ 
cally worthless. This fact being recorded in the press at the time 
gave to the variety a rather bad character (which some persons, 
however, did not think it deserved), and without doubt was the 
means of limiting its culture. 
While it was perfectly right and proper to record the Chiswick 
experience of last year, however unfavourable it was as affecting 
the value of any particular variety, it is equally fair, and only just, 
to record the condition of Alnwick Seedling in the same housa 
this year. Last year the crop of it was the worst in the house, 
this year it is the best. Last year there was not one bunch of this 
Grape that was half furnished, this year every bunch is full and the 
berries regular, of good size, and well coloured. Of all the Vines 
of Gros Colman and Alicante in the same structure not one of 
either can be found bearing such excellent crops as are borne by 
each Vine of Alnwick Seedling. Last year there was not one 
bunch of this Grape in the house under notice that could have 
been placed on the table at a cottagers’ show ; this year there were 
no examples at even the late International Show at Edinburgh 
equal to those now hanging at Chiswick—not even those, and they 
were good, exhibited by Mr. Bell, who brought this Grape into 
notice, and obtained a first-class certificate for it from the Royal 
Horticultural Society. 
The reason for the striking difference alluded to is that this year 
the bunches when in flower were fertilised with pollen from Ali¬ 
cante. This, then, appears to be the safe method for securing full 
and regular bunches. 
So superior is the crop of Alnwick Seedling both as regards 
weight and quality over the others, that not only will additional 
rods be trained from the Vines that are doing so well, and so com¬ 
mence the extension system, but it is not unlikely that it will be 
increased by grafting. Even if artificial aid is needed for setting 
the berries, it will be time well spent and labour well invested if 
such a satisfactory return can be had as is produced this season. 
The experience recorded suggests that if we should not hurriedly 
praise neither should we hastily condemn anything that is new, 
but await the teachings of experience under differing conditions. 
The failure of this Grape last year at Chiswick was so complete 
that not a few persons who pride themselves on their “ quick judg¬ 
ment ” would no doubt have cut it out. But the manager there 
has seen too much of what may be termed the vagaries of vegeta¬ 
tion to act on the impulse of the moment, He has learned the 
wisdom of watching and waiting, and, by cultivating the virtue of 
patience, has had a reward. 
It would be interesting to know how this excellent Grape—an 
improved Alicante—has behaved in other places. It has no doubt 
been rather extensively planted, and many canes must have fruited 
this year. If they are like those at Chiswick their owners and 
cultivators will be satisfied, and the merits of Alnwick Seedling 
will be more firmly established.— J. Wright. 
POTTING PLANTS. 
This is an operation which every beginner considers himself 
skilled in, but which is, nevertheless, often badly performed even 
by practical gardeners. The first point to be noticed is properly 
draining the pots. When a suitable outlet for the superfluous 
water is not made it is hopeless to expect success, for no plant can 
thrive in sour soil. In draining the smallest-sized pots one crock 
(piece of broken pot) over the hole in the bottom, with the concave 
side downwards, covered with the roughest of the soil, is generally 
enough. Indeed, a little rough soil in the case of strong-growing 
strong-rooting plants is often enough. For plants in 6-six pots one 
large crock covered with rough lumpy soil may be enough for 
Balsams, or even Fuchsias, when growing rapidly. For Heaths 
and plants of a similar nature small crocks carefully arranged to 
the depth of fully an inch should cover the central one, and over 
the small crocks a little moss, or the fibre from the peat or loam, is 
necessary to prevent the soil stopping the drainage. For a 12-inch 
pot from 3 to 4 inches depth of drainage will he necessary, and 
more according to size. 
Having drained the pots, the next thing is placing in the soil. 
When the smallest pots are used for potting cuttings or seedlings 
enough soil should he placed in the pots, and pressed firmly down, 
that when the roots of the plant to be potted rest lightly on it the 
part of the stem which was at the surface of soil before may be 
fully a quarter of an inch below the rim of the pot. Holding the 
plant in this position, in the centre of the pot, with the left hand, 
soil should be placed into the pot with the right, and pressed down 
firmly and level, the surface of the soil being a quarter of an inch 
below the rim of the pot. This space is for holding water. When 
the plants are to be taken out of cutting boxes each should be 
lifted out carefully with a good ball of earth, and only as much 
being carefully removed without bruising the roots as will reduce 
the ball so that it may be easily introduced into the pot intended 
for it. 
When plants are to be shifted the same rule should he observed. 
Plants do not need shifting unless the soil in the pots is well 
occupied with roots, and it is considered desirable or necessary to 
increase the size of the plants. When the plants are turned out of 
the pots the drainage should be removed, and any unoccupied soil 
carefully picked off. It should then be placed on the soil (which 
has been put in the pot. and well firmed down previously), and fresh 
soil packed, either with the fingers or a blunt piece of wood, rather 
firmly. Loose soil holds too much water, and when plants which 
are potted loosely are turned out there is danger of the ball break¬ 
ing, and so destroying the roots. When a plant is potted the new 
soil should always be put in as firm as the old ball is, or when 
the water is applied it will run through the loose soil and leave the 
firmer portion, where the roots are, too dry. 
In potting large plants soil as full of fibre as possible should he 
chosen, and rammed into the pots or tubs rather firmly. The reason 
for choosing turfy material for soil is that it lasts a long time 
without becoming sour. When large quantities of soil, in which 
there is neither fibre nor roots, are packed into large pots or 
tubs, to remain there for years maybe, it is sure to become sour, 
soddened, and unhealthy, in which state no plant can grow 
well in it. 
Repotting generally takes place in spring, when plants that have 
rested through the winter have been pruned and started into growth 
require partial shaking out and repotting in the same or similar 
pots. Fuchsias should be thus dealt with in spring, and so should 
any scarlet and other Pelargoniums which may have been brought 
over the winter, and which may be intended for growing on. 
Fancy Pelargoniums require this treatment in autumn, when they 
have made fresh growth after having been ripened and pruned. 
Plants which have thus been treated do not need larger pots until 
some growth has been made, but the partial removal of the im¬ 
poverished soil and supplying fresh soil is always accompanied with 
good results. In such cases the old balls should be turned out of 
the pots and reduced as much as will allow cf this being easily 
placed in the pots, and new soil along with them. Any loose roots 
should at the same time be cut back. 
“ Potting-off ” is when plants in a small state are placed into pots 
for the first time. “ Potting-on” is shifting plants into larger pots 
