JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 19, 1882. ] 
r Measures being taken at the proper time to secure a supply of 
Lettuces and Endive ready at this season for lifting, it should not 
longer be delayed, as the quality of these is much deteriorated if 
injured by frost. In cold pits or frames with protection during 
severe weather, and ordinary attention to ventilation, these will keep 
in good condition for a considerable time. 
Celery, a very important edible for winter use, must be given the 
requisite attention in earthing and protecting in case of frost; for 
when left too much exposed it sustains serious injury, decay being 
attributed to wet when it really is a consequence of previous damage 
from frost. 
Roots of Carrots, Salsafy, Scorzonera, and a portion of the Parsnips 
should now be taken up and stored for winter use, being careful not 
to trim them too hard or to place in large stacks so as to induce fer¬ 
mentation, which causes decay. They should be packed in damp 
sand. Beet must be lifted and carefully trimmed, so as to avoid 
damage, or the colour will be impaired. In order to keep this root 
late a portion should be placed on a north border, the roots entirely 
buried and covered with a few inches depth of ashes, where the 
roots generally keep fresh and firm until next year’s supply is fit 
for use. 
Frame Ground .—"Whilst favourable weather continues fully expose 
Cauliflowers, Lettuces, Endive, and Radishes in frames, being very 
watchful against the early frosts, as these are the most injurious. 
Remove decayed leaves and weeds, and stir the soil occasionally 
between the plants, dusting with lime to keep down slugs and worms. 
Pits or houses that contain late crops of French Beans will require 
constant attention to pre vent the plants damping, keeping the tem¬ 
perature from 00° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by day, with a little 
ventilation constantly. Successional sowings may be made in 9-inch 
pots, using moderately rich light soil. Periodical sowings of Mustard 
and Cress must also be made in heat according to the requirements. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Where late Grapes are grown in sufficient quantity to 
continue the supply until late in spring Grapes may be had all the 
year round without the necessity for very early forcing. Lady 
Downe’s is unquestionably the most valuable, it being a sure cropper 
and keeping in good condition until the end of May. Alicantes 
invariably finish well, and keep excellently. West’s St. Peter’s 
is a fine late sort, and keeps under favourable conditions in good 
order until April. Gros Colman is simply grand in appearance, its 
enormous berries and magnificent colour when well finished being 
very telling. To ripen and colour this and Gros Guillaume requires 
more time than other late Grapes, and should as a consequence be 
started early, and encouraged from first to last with fire heat. 
Trebbiano and Calabrian Raisin are the best of the whites, large 
both in bunch and berry, and when well ripened good keepers and 
of fair quality. The last four are generally considered of second- 
rate quality, but this arises entirely from the fruit not being properly 
matured, and from their being contrasted with Muscat of Alexandria 
and Hamburghs at a time when their best qualities are undeveloped, 
which is effected by that which gives them their value—viz., late or 
long keeping. 
Where late Grapes are not grown, dependance being placed on 
Hamburghs and Muscats for a late supply, which cannot under the 
most careful management be prolonged much beyond the new year, 
or new Grapes being required by the middle of April, no time must 
be lost in starting the Vines that have been pruned and dressed both 
at top and roots as advised in former calendars. If the roots have 
access to outside borders those should be covered with fermenting 
materials, three parts leaves—Oak or Beech—to one of stable litter 
well mixed being most suitable, from giving a mild and lasting heat. 
The inside border should be rendered thoroughly moist by supplying 
water or liquid manure at 80° to 90°, and fermenting materials of the 
description indicated in preparation for placing inside the house at 
the beginning of next month, alike as a means of warmth and to 
promote a good break of the Vines from the moist genial condition 
of the atmosphere occasioned by the presence of the fermenting 
materials. The house may now be closed, but no artificial heat 
should be applied for another fortnight, when the night temperature 
373 
should range from 50° to 55°, and 65° in the daytime from sun heat, 
syringing the rods twice daily. 
Young Vines that have completed their growth should have a por¬ 
tion of the laterals removed to give light and air to the wood and in¬ 
duce earlier ripening of the wood, keeping rather dry at the roots ; 
but an over-dry condition at the roots must be guarded against. 
Keep a s harp look-out for decayed berries in ripe fruit, ventilating 
freely in favourable weather, it being advisable to maintain slight 
warmth in the pipes when the atmosphere outside is charged with 
moisture. 
Cucumbers .—Place the plants for winter fruiting out at once, plant¬ 
ing on raised hillocks or ridges near to the glass, encouraging growth 
by a genial condition of the atmosphere. Examine the autumn 
fruiters, re moving bad leaves, thinning out exhausted and too crowded 
growth, removing all male blossoms. Maintain a night temperature 
of 65® to 70°, and 70® to 75° in the day, advancing with sun heat to 
80® or 85°, admitting a little air at every favourable opportunity- 
The evaporation troughs should be kept charged with liquid manure. 
Employ the syringe over the foliage lightly on fine afternoons, and 
damp the floors about 8 a.m. and 3 P.M., reducing the supply of water 
at the roots, but do not allow the foliage to flag. Dust with flowers 
of sulphur against mildew, and fumigate carefully upon the first ap¬ 
pearance of aphides. Keep the glass thoroughly clean to admit all 
the light possible. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Azaleas .—Plants of the neglected A. vittata which have been 
encouraged by gentle warmth to make growth and set the buds early 
will now be in flower, and to enable them to open freely and enhance 
the size of the flowers a temperature of 50° to 55° will be more suitable 
than an ordinary greenhouse temperature. Plants of this that have 
been subjected to ordinary treatment will also shortly begin to open 
its flowers, and should, for the reasons indicated above, be given a 
slight increase of warmth. The plants will flower over a long period, 
as a second lot of flowers will be produced by the strong shoots pro¬ 
viding the wood is not cut with the first blooms. The flowers of this 
are variously coloured, a few being entirely purple, others white- 
striped, and others blotched. Some of the earliest-flowered plants, 
and since encouraged to make growth and set their buds early, will 
now be in condition to place in heat, they coming on without much 
excitement, which will add to the durability of the flowers. Alba, 
amcena, A. Borsig, Fielder’s White, Narcissiflora, and Raphael flower 
early without much excitement. Others which have been accelerated 
in growth and setting will also force readily. Some of the best are 
Jean Vervaene, Apollon, Eclatante, Roi d’Holland, and Reine des 
Roses, which have single flowers. In semi or double flowers Mdlle. 
Louise de Kerchove, Kaiser Wilhelm, Dr. Moore, Triomphe de Won- 
delghem, Roi des Beiges, and Madame Charles Van Eckhaute. The 
whole of the stock should be examined, and if there be any trace of 
thrips the plants must be washed with tobacco water, wetting the 
whole surface of the leaves and wood. 
Chrysanthemums must be encouraged as much as possible whilst 
outdoors, keeping them well supplied with liquid manure, attended to 
in tying, using no more support than is absolutely necessary, and 
thinning the buds well in good time, so as to secure fine blooms. 
Whilst it is undesirable to house the plants too early, protection 
should be at hand to apply promptly in case of sudden frost, and 
when the buds begin to show colour the sooner they are housed the 
better, ventilating freely, and merely excluding frost. 
Schizostylis coccinea grown in pots and liberally treated during 
summer will be throwing up its spikes, and should be moved to a 
cool house or conservatory, where it will make a fine display for 
several weeks. It is a moisture-loving plant, and well repays any 
extra attention in the application of liquid manure. 
Tea-scented Roses grown in pots and not forced, but grown out¬ 
doors in summer, will be showing buds plentifully, and if moved to a 
house with a temperature of 50° will continue expanding them until 
a late period, liquid manure being given at the roots. Niphetos in 
an ordinary greenhouse keeps on growing and flowering throughout 
the year, and is unquestionably one of the freest and best. Where 
Roses are planted out and trained to the roof or otherwise, they 
