October 26, 1882. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
383 
darker do with us. I say burn; but though this describes the 
appearance, it certainly is not caused through burning as by 
the sun, for very frequently on sunless days this failing is more 
noticeable. 
I also draw attention to the position of A. K. Williams and 
Madame G. Luizet. These two Roses almost exactly change their 
relative places in the two lists. Evidently A. K. Williams is not 
so highly esteemed in America, and since the publication of the 
first portion of this election I have received a letter from a gentle¬ 
man in which the following passages occur :—“ Since you mention 
A. K. Williams I cannot resist giving you my experience this season. 
I had between thirty and forty plants on Briar and Manetti, 
maidens and cutbacks. Eleven of them died right out in April, 
though they had shot strongly before, being pruned in March. 
Off the remainder I cut but one moderate show bloom all the season. 
They are well ‘done by,’but made very weak growth. I think 
there was something in the season did not suit it. All Rose-growers 
in this county (Suffolk) were equally lamenting it.” My expe¬ 
rience, I confess, leans to the same view—plants have died so far 
as I could discover without any reason. 
Of Helen Paul and Gaston Leveque, two Roses that are in¬ 
cluded in Mr. Ellwanger’s second twenty-four, no mention was 
made by any one of the sixty-six voters in this country ; the cata¬ 
logue character ot the former is excellent. 
Let me now compare the two lists of Teas and Noisettes. 
THE ELECTION LIST. 
1. Catherine Mermet. 
2. Mardcbal Niel. 
3. Souvenir d’un Ami. 
4. Marie Van Houtte. 
5. Souvenir d’Elise. 
6. Devoniensis. 
7. Madame Lambard. 
8. Niphetos. 
9. Madame Bravy. 
10. Jean Ducher. 
MB. ELLWANGER’S LIST. 
1. Marechal Niel. 
2. Catherine Mermet. 
8. Marie Van Houtte. 
4. Madame Bravy. 
5. Madame Lambard. 
6. Rubens. 
7. Etoile de Lyon. 
8. Perle des Jardins. 
9. Marie Guillot. 
10. Comtesse de Nadaillac. 
11 . 
12 . 
15. 
16. 
17. 
18. 
19. 
20 . 
Perle des Jardins. 
Rubens. 
Belle Lyonnaise. 
Souvenir de P. Neyron. 
Comtesse de Nadaillac. 
Madame Willermoz. 
Anna Ollivier. 
Innocente Pirola. 
Madame Caroline Kuster. 
Gloire de Dijon. 
11. Marie Berton. 
12. Madame Angela Jacquier. 
13. Cornelia Cook, 
14. Niphetos. 
15. Souvenir d’un Ami. 
16. Devoniensis. 
17. Sombreuil. 
18. Jean Ducher. 
19. La Princesse Vera. 
20. Madame Welshe. 
until the spring of 1881. I that year obtained a plant of the above 
Rose, and in potting it I used the manure as directed on the canister, 
quite expecting it to die as the others had done, but was surprised 
to find it growing vigorously. In July I planted it out, bringing the 
head inside and mixing with the soil half a Is. canister of the manure. 
This spring I cut over two hundred blooms from it, and at the 
present time it covers over 100 feet of glass.— Charles Warjng, 
Prince's Park, Liverpool. 
RASPBERRY CULTURE. 
The American list contains two Roses that I do not find in most 
of our English catalogues. No. 13, Cornelia Cook, thus described 
by Mr. Ellwanger :—“ Cornelia Cook (Anthony Cook, 1855), a 
seedling from Devoniensis, pale yellowish white, sometimes tinged 
with flesh ; flowers very large and very full, not a free bloomer, 
and often does not open well, but a superb Rose when well grown.” 
The other, No. 19, La Princesse Yera, is a new Rose “ (Nabonnand, 
1878), creamy white bordered with coppery yellow, pretty buds.” 
Mr. Ellwanger has just published a new book on the queen of 
flowers entitled “ The Rose.” It is comprehensive, for it gives a 
list of 956 varieties, the date of origin, and name of raiser. It 
appears also to treat the subject fully, including the diseases 
and insects of the Rose. On the latter point most of us need 
enlightening, especially ordinary gardeners, who are only too 
ready to apply finger and thumb to any insects, forgetting, or 
more probably having never learnt, that many of the insects on 
the Rose are our best friends ; and here I rejoice to see in Mr. 
Farren’s (of How House Nurseries, Cambridge) catalogue addi¬ 
tions on these matters. They will well repay perusal. Possibly 
he has scarcely drawn sufficient attention to the very pointed head 
of the larvse of the syrphidse, our greatest allies. The heads of all 
other grubs and maggots that eat the Rose are rounded or squarish, 
and the head is generally shiny and distinguishable from the rest 
of the body of the grub. Not so that of these most useful little 
creatures ; it is roughly pointed, not distinguishable as a head. 
These untiring devourers of the green or black fly cannot be 
too universally known and recognised. They, with the larvse of 
the ladybird and lace-winged flies which may escape destruction, 
being unlike grubs, are our most devoted slaves. It is a pity they 
so often receive the treatment meted out to our enemies.— Joseph 
Hinton, Warminster. 
Standen’s Manure. —I quite agree with Mr. Irvine in reference 
to Standen’s manure and its effects on plants. I believe if it was 
more used many difficulties to be contended with in town gardening 
would be overcome. We all know how injurious town air is to plants, 
particularly to Roses. To grow these in gardens here is out of the 
question, surrounded as we are by thousands of habitations ; even 
under glass few will succeed—not one out of ten. For five years 
I tried to grow Gloire de Dijon in a greenhouse, but failed every year 
To have this useful fruit in satisfactory condition good soil is 
essential. If the natural soil is not suitable it must be prepared. 
I managed a garden once where every other kind of hardy fruit 
was grown extensively and well except the Raspberry. The soil 
was a stiff loam and the cause of failure, so we marked off a piece 
of ground in an open quarter, and worked in plenty of decayed 
vegetable matter mixed with lime to make the soil light. The 
stools were planted, and the same season splendid canes were 
formed, and a good crop of fruit was obtained from the original 
canes. 
When you are about to plant Raspberries choose an open quarter. 
If the ground is heavy work in plenty of vegetable refuse. If, on 
the other hand, it is too light well trench the ground and work in 
some stable manure. The best month to plant in is November. 
The rows should be 5 feet apart, and the stools 3 feet apart in the 
rows. The following February cut the canes down. As to train¬ 
ing, the best way is to have a strong post at each end of the row 
and a wire strained to them, the canes being trained fan shape. 
When they are established mulch the ground with manure every 
season, but do not dig it in. It will help to keep the roots moist, 
besides affording them sustenance, as the Raspberry delights in a 
moist rich soil. There is another reason why Raspberries do not 
succeed at some places. They are surface-rooting, and the soil 
near them should not be dug at any time. In the winter hoe the 
quarter and remove the loose litter. They do not require very 
much pruning. After they have done fruiting cut the old fruiting 
canes away to encourage the suckers for next season, leaving about 
six to a stool. I do not recommend cutting the tops of the canes 
unless in the case of a straggler, as much of the crop is lost by 
doing so. The best varieties are Fastolff, Prince of Wales, and 
Carters’ Prolific. Baumforth’s Seedling is also said to be a good 
variety. Autumnal Raspberries do not bear good fruit on the 
canes of the preceding season. They should be cut down close to 
the ground in February and the suckers thinned.—A. Young. 
In the majority of gardens autumn Raspberries are almost in¬ 
dispensable, and this autumn they appear to be doing better than 
usual. The plants of the yellow variety in particular are still 
carrying a heavy crop of fine fruit, much heavier than the red. 
We commenced gathering five.weeks since, and to all appearance 
will continue doing so until the frost comes. As is well known, 
these varieties fruit on the current year’s shoots, the old wood 
being cut away during the winter and the stools well mulched 
with manure. It is advisable to transplant often, as by so doing 
much larger fruits are procured, and if done early it does not 
affect them, and they will carry a good crop of fruit the same 
year.—G. S. 
SEWAGE, SOOT, AND ASHES—A CAUTION. 
I have been much interested with the discussion lately carried 
on in this Journal about benefits obtainable from what may be 
called home-made manures, such as sewage, soot, and ashes. 
Sewage both in a liquid and solid state is equal to any of the 
costly fertilisers in the market. As long as I can remember 
sewage has been known to me as one of the most beneficial and 
economical of fertilisers; indeed, it has often been a surprise to 
me that such a valuable article has been so wasted. “ Single- 
handed ” and Mr. Taylor are national benefactors in stirring the 
minds of horticulturists to the benefits derived from its use. 
There is nothing new about it, but, as in cooking, the average 
Britisher will not look at the economical part of the subject. 
Home-made dishes of scraps what our continental friends would 
make a savoury meal of are thrown away for the large costly 
joint. So with home-made manures. We shall no doubt in time 
learn to study the application of those resources that are at hand, 
and to be had in most cases for the mere trouble, and a careful 
system of preserving and applying them. 
Sewage, soot, and ashes I have always accounted amongst 
the gardener’s best and readiest assistants, so much so that I 
have since I came here managed to obtain the whole of each 
for the use of the garden. In doing so I thought myself most 
fortunate. I used all unsparingly, but in most instances could not 
