394 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t October so, isss. 
deeply as can be done without much injury to the roots, employing 
rich compost, to be placed in firmly. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—Unless the weather prove unusually wet 
the lights may remain off the house to be started early in December 
until the middle of next month, otherwise they should be placed on 
and the ventilators be open to the fullest extent when the weather 
is mild. The exposure of the trees to atmospheric influence after 
the wood is thoroughly ripe is of the greatest advantage, inducing 
a more complete rest than when the lights are kept on, the cleansing 
influence of rains and the thorough moistening of the borders being 
of considerable importance. Even in late houses the exposure of 
the trees is of the greatest benefit, but in no case should it be 
practised until the wood is thoroughly ripe. Trees in late houses that 
are not ripening the wood freely should be assisted with fire heat by 
day and a free circulation of air constantly. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
When the beds and borders have been cleared of their summer 
occupants they should at once be prepared for refurnishing. If a 
display is wanted in winter dwarf evergreens are the most suitable, 
whilst for spring flowering plants will afford a more effective display. 
The great recommendation of plants for spring gardening is that 
they require no glass room or costly preparation to raise them, as an 
interesting display may be secured by the expenditure of a few 
pounds in bulbs such as Hyacinths, Narcissus, Tulips, Crocus, Scillas, 
Snowdrops, and Anemones, with Primroses, border Auriculas, Daisies, 
Violas, Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots, and early-blooming hardy an¬ 
nuals such as Candytuft, Limnanthes, Nemophilas, and Silenes. 
For edgings or marginal lines Arabis albida variegata, Veronica 
incana, Golden Feather Pyrethrum, Golden Thyme, Stachys lanata, 
and Dell’s Crimson Beet are very effective. These and others that 
will suggest themselves to those intent on making a display in spring 
are readily increased when once procured. Before planting it will 
be necessary to manure the beds. Of shrubs few are more effective 
than the gold, silver, and plain-leaved Tree Ivies, the Euonymuses 
being distinct and bright in variegation. Osmanthuses with their 
Holly-like foliage have a telling boldness, and the Aucubas are 
equally noteworthy. Skimmia japonica well berried is superb, and 
Vinca elegantissima very graceful. The deep green dense foliage of 
Mahonia aquifolia, and its masses of gold flowers in spring, with 
the white flowers of Laurustinus, the rose flowers of Erica carnea 
and Andromeda floribunda, are fine as flowering shrubs. Crypto- 
meria elegans and var. nana with their chocolate, Cupressus Law- 
soniana and vars., also C. Nutkaensis, Betinosporas, Taxus baccata 
aurea and elegantissima, Thuia aurea, and Thujopsis dolabrata, are a 
combination of gracefulness and elegance. Weeds on lawns, such 
as Daisies, Plantains, Crowfoot, grow fast in a wet autumn, and as 
they are a great disfigurement to a lawn they should be extirpated 
at once, so that their place may be taken by the natural grasses. 
The heavy rains have brought worms to the surface, their casts are 
also a great disfigurement, hence lime water should be poured over 
the lawn, which soon brings them to the surface, when they may be 
swept up and destroyed ; this being repeated a few times after heavy 
rains will greatly diminish their numbers and save much labour in 
sweeping and rolling. Keep leaves cleared up, and roll walks and 
grass frequently. In the borders of herbaceous the Michaelmas 
Daisies (Asters) are still fine, and so are the perennial Sunflowers, 
Japan Anemones, and Tritomas. The stems of any varieties suffi¬ 
ciently ripened should be at once removed and the borders kept as 
neat as possible. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Bouvardias .—For affording a continuous supply of flowers for cut¬ 
ting these are unsurpassable ; but to induce them to afford their full 
quantity of flowers through the winter months they must be kept in 
a brisk heat. Plants from cuttings struck in spring and placed in pits 
or frames in good soil, and in September transferred to 6 or 8-inch 
pots according to their size, if now transferred to a house with a 
temperature of 65° at night, with a rise of 5° to 10° in the day, will 
soon be covered with bloom, and will continue for many months, an 
application of liquid manure being given once or twice a week. They 
should be placed as near the glass as possible. 
Gesnerias of the zebrina section must have a light position, and a 
temperature of’ 60° to 65° at night, with 5° to 10° more by day, 
which will induce a sturdy growth and free disposition to flower. 
Supply any plants in small pots with weak liquid manure. 
Orchids .—Lowering the temperature has brought such plants as 
Aerides,,Vandas, Phalsenopses, Saccolabiums, and similar kinds into 
a partial state of rest. Just sufficient water should be given at the 
roots to keep the moss damp, for if allowed to become too dry the 
bottom leaves are apt to shrivel and fall off. Premature growth 
should be prevented by keeping the house comparatively cool and 
dry ; but a little water must be poured over the paths on fine morn¬ 
ings. Open the bottom ventilators, though very little will be re¬ 
quired except to keep down the temperature, as a cool system of 
treatment is most desirable at this season. Plants that have not 
completed their growth must be kept in a moist atmosphere and 
watered, those on blocks being examined and watered as needed. 
Dendrobiums will now be chiefly at r«st, and should be kept cool and 
dry. Cattleyas require a long season of rest, and should be kept 
rather dry ; but the pseudo-bulbs must not be allowed to shrivel, very 
little water being needed to keep them plump. Lselia purpurata not 
having completed the growth should be given a favourable position 
at the warmest end of the house. Calanthe vestita and C. Veitchii 
coming into flower should not be overwatered, or the buds are likely 
to fall before they expand, which is caused by too much atmospheric 
moisture and insufficient light; therefore keep them fully exposed in 
the driest part of the house. Lycaste Skinneri, though a water-loving 
plant, requires less at this season, but if allowed to become too dry 
the pseudo-bulbs shrivel in a few days ; and the water must be kept 
from their base, or the flower buds will decay when an inch or so 
long. Cypripediums require liberal supplies of water, as they do not 
need any rest. 
Stove Begonias of the flowering section should be afforded all the 
light possible, and no more heat than will enable them to open their 
flowers freely. Afford weak liquid manure occasionally. Easily 
grown as these are, it is surprising they are not more generally seen. 
B. insignis, B. Ingrami, B. Saundersiana, B. fuchsioides, and B. semper- 
florens are especially useful. 
Richardia (Calla) sethiopica should now be placed in heat for early 
flowering. Plants that flowered early last season, and were liberally 
treated afterwards, are now throwing up their spathes. In a tempera¬ 
ture of 50° to 55° they will develope perfectly, and in a conservatory 
be highly effective. By having sufficient plants started at intervals 
flowers may be had in bloom all the year round. It is spoiled both 
in leaf and spathes by being grown in too much heat. The general 
stock ought to be at once housed, and should be kept gently growing 
in a light house, a temperature of 45° to 50° suiting the plants. 
Introduce more Roman Hyacinths, Double Roman and Paper White 
Narcissus to heat. Place them near the glass in a temperature of 
50° to 65°, and do not accelerate the flowering too rapidly or they will 
be drawn weakly. Lily of the Valley is always acceptable. Plants 
that were forced this season and well attended to with water and 
liquid manure so as to complete a good growth, and been rested out¬ 
doors, will start readily on being placed in heat, the process being 
accelerated by a bottom heat of 90°. Single crowns inserted in rich 
soil a couple of inches apart over a bed with a temperature of 90°, 
kept moist, and the tops covered so as to draw the spikes up to a good 
length, in which state they are most useful, will afford flowers in 
abundance for cutting, the crowns being selected with flower buds. 
iIhebee-keepeCI 
THE STEWARTON AND THE BAR-FRAME HIVES. 
No. 2. 
In a former letter on this subject I tried to explain the chief 
characteristics of the Stewarton hive and notice its best features. 
For supering purposes we hold that this hive is unequalled. The 
principle of the hive we highly commend; the material (wood) of 
which it is made we as unhesitatingly condemn. Those who try 
to improve the Stewarton will doubtless consider the question 
