October 26, 1882.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
397 
prevent the Vines under glass at least sustaining so much damage as they have 
suffered this year. As soon as the leaves of the Vines turn yellow collect and 
burn them, then after pruning wash and dress the Vines as recommended by a 
correspondent on page 365 last week for extirpating mealy bug. This washing 
must be thoroughly done. Wash also every portion of the woodwork of the 
house, coating the walls with hot lime in which sulphur has been mixed liberally, 
2 or 3 fts. being incorporated in an ordinary pailful of limewash. If the Vine 
border is inside remove an inch or two from the surface, and apply fresh soil. 
When the Vines are started in the spring paint the return pipes with sulphur, 
and afterwards the flow pipes when the Vines are in leaf and any specks of 
mildew is seen on them. These must be watched for daily, and the moment the 
first speck is seen dust with sulphur, and if this fails try Ewing’s mildew com¬ 
position. Keep the roots of the Vines moist and the house well and carefully 
ventilated, dry soil and a close murky atmosphere being favourable to the spread 
of the mildew and inimical to the Vines. If you permit the pest to become 
established, as you have done this year, you cannot destroy it without injuring 
the Vines, nor will the remedies we have suggested be effectual if they be not 
carefully applied. 
Improving Lawn Tennis Ground (.Old Subscriber ').—It is not unlikely 
the lawn requires draining, and if so the first step to take is to put in drains 
6 or 7 yards apart and 18 inches deep, with proper falls into a main drain and 
a clear outlet for the water. Three-inch pipes will be sufficient, and they should 
be covered 6 inches deep with rough cinders or gravel to render them per¬ 
manently effective. Drainage, however, may not be needed—of this you ought 
to be the best judge ; but whether it is done or not a heavy dressing of fresh 
soil, with a liberal admixture of manure, lime, and wood ashes spread over, so 
as to almost cover the grass, cannot fail to be of great benefit. Before applying 
the dressing comb off all the moss you can with a small sharp-toothed rake. 
This you may do at any time when the ground is dry very early in spring, and 
later, when the weather is genial, sow thickly seeds of a renovating lawn mixture. 
Bake it in and roll the ground lightly, and you may expect a greatly improved 
lawn a few weeks afterwards. If you state the extent of the ground to any 
seedsman or firm who deal largely in grass seeds the proper quantity of a suit¬ 
able mixture will be sent to you. If the lawn is full of deeply rooting weeds you 
had better dig it up, forking and picking out all the rubbish, then make it level 
and firm, and sow it as before advised. In this way you may form a cleaner and 
better lawn than by taking up the old and laying down fresh turf as you 
propose, as, however clean the new turf may be, the roots of the weeds left in the 
ground will grow, and the new turf will soon be as unsightly as the old. 
Removing Evergreens (E. Dawson ).—The present is an excellent time 
for transplanting evergreen shrubs, and few that are of a suitable size and in 
good condition for removal will fail to grow if the work is properly done. First 
decide on the positions they are to occupy, and make the necessary excavations 
for the accommodation of their roots, the holes being a foot wider than the 
roots extend when they are spread out in them. Then tie up the branches, and 
take out a deep trench at such a distance from the stem as in your judgment 
seems suitable. Let this trench be deep and wide; undermine the roots, throwing 
out the soil as the work proceeds ; remove also any soil that appears loose from 
the surface, and do not attempt to secure more round the roots than will adhere 
to them. Cut off any bruised roots, and place the shrub in its new position 
the same depth as it was in the old. Spread the roots out straight, placing 
soil on the bottom layer, then other roots on this, and so on, until they are all 
covered. Now, and before the soil is filled in, give a drenching of water to 
settle the particles round the roots, level in the remaining soil, making all firm, 
and the work is done. No more watering will be required until spring, and 
even then it is better to syringe the foliage to prevent evaporation than to 
saturate the soil when there are few active roots to absorb the moisture. Ever¬ 
green Oaks are amongst the worst shrubs to transplant, but still with due care 
and good attention they may be removed successfully. 
Orchids for a Warm House (L. T. K .).—The book most likely to suit 
you is the “Orchid-Grower’s Manual,” published by Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper 
Holloway, price 7s. 6 d., post free, 8s. The following are twelve of the cheapest 
Orchids suitable for a warm house, but their prices will probably exceed your 
anticipations, ranging from 5s. to 21s. each Aerides odoratum, Calanthe 
Yeitchii, C. vestita, Cattleya Mossise, Denbrobium densiflorum, D. formosum 
giganteum, Dendrochilum filiforme, Laslia majalis, Odontoglossum vexillarium, 
Oncidium Forbesi, Vanda tricolor, and Zygopetalum Mackayi. Two good 
Pitcher-plants are Nepenthes Hookeriana and N. Rafflesiana; while if you 
require more Orchids in your cool house you might add Pleione lagenaria and 
P. maculata. 
Cordon Peaches (J. E .).—Cordons would certainly be likely to give you 
larger fruit with less expenditure of time and trouble than trees in pots. The 
pinching of the shoots, however, must be very persistent for furnishing the 
trees with fruiting spurs, and in all probability you would find the most satis- 
tory results by not adopting the cordon plan in its integrity, but planting 
the trees 2 feet apart and fruiting on the young wood, shoots being selected 
for their firm short-jointed character, and secured thinly on the trellis 
space between the trees, these bearing portions being removed when the fruit 
is gathered, and other growths that will then be plentiful secured in their 
places. This is the plan adopted successfully at Chiswick, and is the simplest 
and best we know where several varieties have to be grown in a limited space. 
In your case we should not think it necessary to incur the expense of concreting 
the borders, but provision should be made for carrying the water off the clay, 
above which we should make stations for the trees by placing 18 inches of good 
soil on a layer of rubble protected with turves. We should keep the roots near 
the surface by rich top-dressings, not digging the border, but having it firm. 
A border 3 feet wide would be sufficient for a year or two, and it could be 
added to as needed. Further, the trees could be easily lifted every two or three 
years if their luxuriant growth indicated that the roots were penetrating the 
subsoil. Assuming the borders will be well managed as to watering we should 
prefer them inside, but this is not a question of moment, and the trees may be 
planted inside or outside as may be most convenient. We should not plant 
Peaches and Pears alternately, but devote a portion of the house to each kind 
of fruit separately. A foot from the glass is a suitable distance for stretching 
the wires, but the trees will do equally well if they are 2 feet from the roof of a 
light house, and this is often more convenient for dressing the trees. You will 
find the necessary details for pinching fruit trees grown on the close spur or 
cordon system in De Breuil’s work on fruit trees, published by Messrs. Lockwood 
and Sons. Your Vines will certainly be improved by the system you have 
adopted, but the benefit will not be so marked next year as the year after, as 
the wood on which you must depend for the next crop was made under 
unfavourable conditions. 
Names of Fruits (O. P .).—We are obliged by the specimens of Lord 
Lennox. Of the other fruits you have sent No. 1 is Winter Majetin, a hardy, 
free-bearing, and good culinary Apple. No. 2 is a Costard, of which there are 
several varieties ; you may call it the Longhills Costard if you like, as we do 
not remember anything exactly like it. The Bibston Pippin is quite true and 
well grown. (C. P., Berts). —1, Marcchal de Cour ; 2, Eyewood ; 3, Josephine de 
Malines, prematurely ripened. (Beverley). —1, Beurrc Beauchamps ; 2, Glou Mor- 
ceau ; 3, Baronne de Mello ; 4, Winter Nelis. We think the names are attached 
to the right numbers, but when these are sent loose the tickets are so liable to 
get displaced that we cannot guarantee accuracy in this respect. Numbers 
ought always to be firmly attached to the specimens. 
Names of Plants (J. P. L.). —A and d, Abies cephalonica, the former a 
stronger variety ; B, Abies lasiocarpa; C, Abies balsamea. (Inquirer). —1, Nico- 
tiana glauca ; 2, Aster argophyllus, the Musk Tree (see reply above) ; 3, Myo- 
porum Iffitum.an Australian shrub which thrives best in a greenhouse. (II. 8 .).— 
The plant of which you sent a spray is probably Thunbergia Harrisii, but why 
did not you send flowers when you had them ? We could then have given the 
name with accuracy. (0. /’., Hants). —The spray No. 1 sent last week we have 
since recognised as Escallonia montevidensis. 
Fumigator Defective (IF. H .).—Your self-made fumigator appears to be 
good, and we think if you soak the rag or whatever you use in a weak solution 
of saltpetre and dry it sufficiently for use, that it will answer your purpose. If 
you use too much saltpetre the material will not only continue alight, but will 
burn too quickly. The strength suitable for your purpose can be easily deter¬ 
mined by a few experiments. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.—OCTOBER 25TH. 
BUSINESS still keeps quiet, the late unsettled weather preventing any revival. 
Kent Cobs are active and well maintain their value. 
FRUIT 
8. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d 
Apples. 
J sieve 
2 
0to7 
0 
Lemons. 
case 
20 
0to30 
0 
Apricots. 
doz. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Melons. 
each 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Cherries. 
i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Nectarines.. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Chestnuts. 
bushel 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Oranges .... 
100 
6 
0 
10 
0 
Currants, Black.. 
i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches .... 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
„ Red.... 
i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears,kitchen .. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Figs. 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 
0 
dessert .... 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Filberts. 
ft. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Pine Apples, English ft. 
3 
0 
5 
0 
Cobs. 
100 ft. 
0 
0 
45 
0 
Raspberries . 
ft. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Gooseberries .... 
i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Strawberries 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Grapes . 
ft. 
1 
0 
3 
e 
VEGETABLES. 
8. 
d. 
s. d. 
s. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Lettuces .... 
1 
Ot.nl 
Asparagus. 
bundle 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Mushrooms 
punnet 
1 
0 
i 
6 
Beans, Kidney_ 
100 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Mustard & Oress . 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
3 
Beet, Red. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Onions. 
bch. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 
6 
Parsley. 
doz. bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts.. 
i sieve 
i 
6 
2 
0 
Parsnips .... 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
dozen 
0 
6 
i 
0 
Peas . 
0 
ID 
0 
0 
Capsicums. 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Potatoes .... 
'cwt. 
6 
0 
7 
0 
Carrots . 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Kidney.... 
cwt. 
6 
0 
8 
0 
Cauliflowers. 
dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Radishes.... 
doz .bunches 
1 
0 
0 
6 
Celery . 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Rhubarb.... 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafy. 
bundle 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Cucumbers. 
each 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Scorzonera 
bundle 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Endive. 
dozen 
1 
u 
2 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Fennel. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Shallots .... 
ft. 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Garlic . 
ft. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Spinach .... 
bushel 
3 
0 
0 
0 
Herbs . 
bunch 
o 
2 
0 
0 
lb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Leeks. 
bunch 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Turnips .... 
bunch 
0 
2 
0 
4 
K HOME FARM If 
i!B! 
POULTRY AND PIOEON CHRONICLE. 
THE DEVON BREED OF CATTLE. 
(Continued from page 377.) 
In their original districts Devons have been largely kept by the 
tenant farmers, clearly proving that they are a good rent-paying 
breed in the cold hilly portions of the grazing districts of the 
county, where weightier animals would have fared badly ; and 
experience proves that they will flourish anywhere under judicious 
treatment. Having purchased them of different ages for feeding 
and fatting under cover for many years, we have found them to 
average 10s. per week increased value both in winter and summer, 
which, under moderate feeding—such as 64 lbs. of Mangolds per 
day, with 4 lb3. of linseed cake, and sweet straw ad libitum — 
yields a fair profit. In the summer time we always feed in the 
boxes with Trifolium first, then Clover (of each as much as they 
will eat), with 4 lbs. of linseed cake per day. This plan of 
summer-fattening answers particularly well with Devon cattle at 
from two and a half to three years of age, because we can cut 
