JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
434 
some very handsome Mimulus attracting much attention ; while that 
widely famed Mignonette, Garraway’s White, which holds so high a 
position in popular favour, was represented by an admirable sample. 
It should be added that every department, though only briefly noted 
here, indicates most careful superintendence, while the preparations 
being made at the time of my visit for the autumn seed and bulb 
trade prove them to be important branches in the business of the 
firm.— Saxon. 
|jp work/°^ the week,. i 
n 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
When the haulm of Asparagus is decayed cut and remove if, 
giving a good dressing of well-decomposed manure, and point it in, 
avoiding covering the crowns too deeply with fresh soil, for when 
that is done they are seriously injured, the roots not unfrequently 
perishing. The decayed leaves of Seakale may also be removed, and 
the crowns covered with spent tan, cocoa-nut fibre refuse, or ashes ; 
but when this is grown for forcing under cover it is better to take up 
the roots at once and lay them in a sheltered place, covering only the 
crowns of that to be forced or blanched outdoors. Globe Avtichokes 
having been cleared of decayed leaves have the growth hardened, 
and should be protected before severe weather, ashes being very suit¬ 
able, the soil being removed from the stools, and the space filled with 
ashes brought well up about the crowns. The ashes are not only 
a good protection against frost, but help to check the slugs. Fill any 
vacancies in plantations of Cabbages and Lettuces, keeping them free 
from weeds, and the soil stirred in favourable weather around the 
plants. Similar remarks apply to Winter Spinach and Onions. All 
decayed leaves should be removed from Brussels Sprouts, Winter 
Greens, and Broccoli, so as to admit light and air, and thereby harden 
them against frost. Where Broccoli are very vigorous and long in 
the stem the plants should be laid down with the heads inclined to 
the north, and the stems up to the leaves covered with soil. This, 
from checking the growth, will enable them to withstand severe 
weather. « 
Forcing Department .—Where Potatoes are required early a first 
planting may now be made, the sets being placed to sprout in boxes 
of leaf soil in a house with a temperature of 55° to 65°. For their 
reception a hotbed should be formed in a pit to which artificial heat 
can be applied in severe weather to maintain a temperature of 60°, 
and permit ventilation w'hen external conditions are favourable with¬ 
out depressing the temperature, but allowing an advance with free 
ventilation to 70° or 75°. Two or three parts leaves to one of stable 
litter are suitable materials for forming the bed, if well incorporated 
and turned over occasionally, and damped if necessary. This should 
be put in firmly, so that when settled down it will be about 18 inches 
from the glass. Six inches depth of light rich soil being placed in, the 
sets should be introduced when the soil is warmed through and they 
have grown a couple of inches, being careful to preserve their roots and 
the sprouts, planting about 4 inches deep. Early Bird and Veitch’s 
Ashleaf are fine kidney varieties, and Coldstream or Smith’s Early 
Selected a good round sort. Plant in rows 15 inches apart and 1 foot 
asunder. Failing an artificially heated pit a hotbed may be made of 
the materials above indicated to a height of about 3 feet, well beaten 
together, covered with a frame, 6 inches of soil being placed in, and 
when warmed through sets inserted at the depth and distance above 
stated, taking care that the heat does not exceed 70° to 75°. If 
desired Early Forcing White and Scarlet Turnip Radishes may be sowm 
in the same bed, in which case the lights should be withdrawn except 
when frost prevails until the Radishes have formed their second 
leaves, when their growth may be accelerated, but ventilating freely 
on all favourable occasions, protecting with mats over the lights in 
severe weather, and applying linings to the sides of the bed to main¬ 
tain the heat. 
Beds about 2 feet in height well beaten down will be suitable for 
Radishes; tree leaves, with a portion of stable litter to bind the 
[ November 9, 1882, 
material together, afford a suitable heat. Four inches of light rich 
soil is ample, and, the seed being sown and covered,the lights maybe 
put on until the seed leaves are appearing through the soil, when the 
lights must be withdrawn whenever the weather is mild, continuing 
this until the rough leaves appear, when their growth may be 
forwarded more rapidly with due attention to free ventilation. 
Early Forcing White and Scarlet Turnip are admirable varieties, 
and so are French Breakfast and Wood’s Frame. In the same frame 
with the Radishes Carrot seed may be sown in alternate rows about 
4 inches apart, and these will succeed the Radishes. French Forcing 
is the best very early variety. French Beans must be sown in pots 
at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks according to the demand, 
earthing up those advanced, and keeping them as near the glass as 
practicable. Supply those advanced for flowering and podding with 
weak tepid liquid manure, giving them a temperature of G0 Q to G5°, 
advancing to 70° or 75° with sun heat. 
A few roots of Rhubarb may be placed in the Mushroom house or 
other suitable house, a temperature of from 55° to G5° being neces¬ 
sary. Seakale with well-developed early-ripened crowns should 
likewise be placed in the Mushroom house, but light must be ex¬ 
cluded so as to insure blanching; light moist soil is necessary, just 
covering the crowns. Water should not be given until growth com¬ 
mences. For the successful forcing of Asparagus a bed of leaves and 
dung is necessary, mixed and turned occasionally so as to secure a 
mild heat. If required early a bed may now be made, and when the 
heat does not exceed 75° a couple of inches depth of soil being placed 
on the bed, the roots introduced, and soil w r orked in amongst them 
level with the crowns, the crowns— i.e., the whole surface of the bed, 
covered with about 3 inches thickness of light sifted soil or spent tan. 
Unless the demand be absolute there is nothing gained by the very 
early forcing of this vegetable, which to be full-flavoured requires 
free ventilation after the heads appear. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—Where ripe fruit is required early in May, 
and of the very early kinds in April, and the trees in the earliest 
house having been dressed with an insecticide, the branches secured to 
the trellis, the borders surface-dressed, and the house thoroughly 
cleansed and repaired as advised in former calendars, the house may 
now be closed ; but air must be given freely when the temperature in 
the house exceeds 50°, and artificial heat must only be resorted to 
when needed to exclude frost, for the slower the trees are started the 
stronger will be the blossom and the greater the probability of a good 
set. The inside border should be given a good watering at 70° to 75°, 
repeating if necessary to bring the soil into a thoroughly moist state. 
In the case of weakly trees tepid liquid manure will assist them con¬ 
siderably in swelling the buds and blossoms. Damp the trees and 
available surfaces in the house twice daily in bright weather, but it 
is necessary to syringe early in the afternoon so as to have the trees 
dry before night. If fermenting materials are at hand a sufficient 
quantity of three parts Oak or Beech leaves and one part stable litter 
should be thrown into a heap and incorporated, damped if necessary, 
and after being turned twice these may be employed for making up 
a bed inside the house a couple of feet in height, and being turned 
over occasionally and fresh material added, a genial condition of the 
atmosphere will be secured, highly favourable to the swelling of the 
buds and expanding blossoms, also lessening the need of fire heat. 
The outside border must be well protected with litter or dry fern ; 
and if shutters or tarpaulin be put on the top it will not only throw 
off heavy rains and snow, but prevent the materials being blown 
about. 
As the trees in succession houses cast their leaves they should be 
pruned and dressed, the house thoroughly cleansed, and the borders 
surface-dressed. If summer-pruning has been properly attended to 
there will be little need for the knife—indeed, we have not used the 
knife for some years when the trees are leafless to trees under glass, 
as they ripen and are furnished with fruit buds on shoots of several 
feet in length to their points. Beyond thinning the growths where 
too crowded, and any weakly old wood, for the encouragement of 
stouter growth, pruning Peaches and Nectarines when leafless is 
fast becoming obselete. The exposure of the trees is highly bene- 
