November 16, 1882. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
449 
experience that root-action in autumn is a most positive fact. 
The winter of 1879 and 1880 was a very severe one. The previous 
autumn I bought in a goodly number of Roses, and had them all 
planted early in November. They were well mulched with light 
dry material. In February I had occasion to transplant many of 
these newly planted trees, and I was astonished to find how their 
roots had started ; in every plant one could see innumerable 
little white rootlets. So much for root-action in winter in “cold” 
Boil. 
And now to argue from the other side of the question. If you 
always plant in February you must prune before trees are esta¬ 
blished. If you delay pruning for six weeks after planting your 
blooming season is too late for the first shows. I am writing 
only of Hybrid Perpetuals, with Teas the case is quite different. 
These precious darlings require much looking after ; they are the 
first out and the last in. Whenever I buy in any Teas I invariably 
heel them in and plant out as early as possible in March—that is 
to say, as soon as the ground is in working order. In six weeks 
they are growing fast, and the middle of April sees them begin¬ 
ning to develope flower buds on the top shoots ; but it does not 
matter, for Teas are much better if pruned when the sap is very 
active, whereas with Hybrid Perpetuals the opposite is the case, 
at least this is my impression. “ D., Deal," says that Mr. Prince’s 
experience is worth a bushel basket of theory. So it is ; but Mr. 
Prince and “ D., Deal," in the matter under consideration, had 
their eyes on Tea Roses only. 
And now let me strongly advise all young rosarians to plant 
Hybrid Perpetuals very early, and not use rich farmyard manure 
as a mulch. Whatever is put on the ground both as a stimulant 
and a protection should be of a dry nature. I feel assured that 
many thousands of Rose trees have been killed the past four years 
by heavy dressings of very wet “ muck,” so heavy that the 
moisture has been retained for weeks, to be thawed every day 
that the sun shines and frozen again every evening Jack Frost 
chooses to come. Put it on dry and light, not heavy and wet. 
At least this is my experience.—J. A. W., Alderviinster. 
Your correspondent “D., Deal," in his letter on “Planting 
Roses in Autumn ” asks your readers for their experience in this 
matter. As my limited amount of Rose-growing is conducted on 
a soil which I should imagine to be most highly suited for autumn 
planting—viz., a deep and dry loam on limestone subsoil, I offer 
my experience such as it is. 
For the last ten years I have planted Roses both in November 
and February, and never thought there was much to choose 
between the two seasons until two years ago, when I bought 150 
dwarf Roses, twelve Teas, and the rest Hybrid Perpetuals. These 
I laid in the ground, covered a foot above the roots until February. 
The winter was very severe, a thermometer registering 40° of 
frost, but I only lost two or three, one of which was a Tea ; the 
others, though a few were killed down to the earth line, were 
fairly fresh and uninjured, and when planted grew and flowered 
well. At the same time well-established trees of two and three 
years’ growth in the open beds were either quite killed or much 
injured, but not quite so universally so as in the preceding year, 
1879. But why should a frost of 29° in 1879 do more harm than 
one of 40° in 1880 ? I think for two reasons : firstly, because in 
1879 we had a late damp summer and autumn without early frost, 
keeping the wood in a growing and unripe state until December 1 
early in which month my second reason, an exceptionally severe 
frost for the time of year, came, the effect on the sap vessels, still 
full, being to burst them and kill the trees ; indeed, it treated the 
unripe Rose shoots as it often does full water pipes and bottles. 
I think the best way to protect Roses from frost is to take them 
up about November 1st, and lay them in until February ; but I 
hear some people say, “ Oh ! my Roses are still growing.” Then 
there is all the more reason for taking them up to stop their 
growth. This season Roses are growing very late, and now is the 
time to put this theory into practice. To summarise : my ex¬ 
perience says, “ Plant in February and prune close.”—I. F., 
Lincoln. 
I think this question is a matter of season, soil, and climate. 
As to season, for instance, last November I transplanted several 
hundred Rose trees, many of them old plants. Not more than 
three or four of the most sappy ever flagged ; the majority went 
on growing, and many actually opened during the next month 
(December) buds which had been previously formed. On the other 
hand, on May 10th, 1879, I moved about two dozen Rose trees 
from another county five or six hours’ journey by rail. They all 
lived and grew well. I cut a bloom from one for a show, but 
cannot remember whether I actually placed it in my stand 
or not. 
As to soil and climate, I have found that in a light soil and 
east-midland climate (which are the only conditions of which I 
have any experience) Roses do begin making fresh roots very 
soon after planting in an average November. I would therefore, 
under my conditions of soil and climate, always plant in Novem¬ 
ber, and avoid “laying-in,” for fear of breaking the new roots, as 
much as possible. In my light soil I can plant when others 
cannot because of the wet. I have been planting to-day (11th), 
and found the soil after the late heavy rains as friable as I could 
wish. I also expect that, as a rule, the ground is not only colder 
but also wetter in February than in November; but in a heavy 
soil, or the climate of “A North Countryman,” there is, doubt¬ 
less, much to be said for spring planting. If one could make sure 
of getting them, would it not in such a case be better to buy in 
the spring, and let the nurseryman run the risk of frost?—A. F. M. 
[It is unsafe to defer purchasing Roses until the spring, as the 
best plants of many varieties are always sold in the autumn. We 
have more letters awaiting publication on the subject under 
discussion.] 
THE DOMINO APPLE. 
Many inquiries have been made from time to time relative to 
this Apple, and we have endeavoured, but hitherto without success, 
to ascertain the origin of the Domino. We have received several 
letters on the subject, and also samples of fruit. We publish a 
section of one of the finest. It was grown in the garden of 
A. S. L. Melville, Esq., Longhills, Lincoln, and the following 
note from the gardener, Mr. G. Picker, accompanied the parcel:— 
“ I have made many inquiries respecting the origin of the Domino 
Apple, but no one to whom I have applied appears to know any¬ 
thing about it. It is our best early culinary Apple, and reached 
here by mistake—a mistake of the right sort. Mr. Melville some 
years ago ordered some fruit trees from Mr. Henry Merryweather 
of the Southwell Nurseries, and although this variety was not 
ordered it was sent, and on the error being pointed out to Mr. 
Merryweather he wrote and said Mr. Melville would not regret 
planting the Domino, and he was right. The cook does not care 
to use any other cooking Apple for the dining-room whilst the 
Domino can be had. Her reason for this is because it is the best 
and whitest-fleshed Apple that she ever cooked—time for cooking 
from fifteen to twenty minutes—and it breaks down in the dish 
well, but not too well; also it takes less sugar than Lord Suffield. 
As an early kitchen Apple I repeat it is the best of all here. Ihe 
tree is a healthy and free grower, forming a good pyramid, 
and is a great bearer. It comes into use here the last week of 
August, and Lord Suffield the first week of September. I have 
Been Domino described as an October Apple, but with us it will 
