November 16, 1882. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
465 
This variety is known in Jersey by the name of Gratioli, and under this name it 
had for some years been grown by Mr. Norris of Sion Hill. Islewortb; but as 
Gratioli is the Italian name of Bon Chrgtien d'Etd, to prevent confusion Mr. 
Bobert Thompson named the present variety Jersey Gratioli. It must have 
been a considerable time in this country, as there is a tree growing in the garden 
of H. M. Bucknall, Esq., of Bedminster Lodge, near Bristol, which he considers 
(1856) to be fifty years old. Specimens from Mr. Bucknall and from Mr. Norris 
were both one variety. 
Stove and Greenhouse Plants (M. T.). —There is no small manual of 
such a comprehensive nature as you appear to require. The “ Cottage Gardener’s 
Dictionary,” which can be had from this office post free for 8 j. 3d., gives infor¬ 
mation on the culture of all kinds of plants, fruits, and vegetables, also on the 
different methods of heating glass structures; but no work contains plans of 
heating precisely adapted to your small house. There are ironmongers in nearly 
all towns quite able to do what you require satisfactorily, 
Rochea fa leaf a (A. Boyle) —An ordinary greenhouse is suitable for winter¬ 
ing this plant, which is quite safe in a temperature of 40 B as a minimum. The 
plants should be kept rather dry at the roots in the winter, and the atmosphere 
of the house dry also. Water applied once a week or fortnight, or even less 
seldom according to the weather, is usually sufficient until February, when 
more moisture must be gradually afforded, and a very light position be assigned 
to the plants. During their season of growth they cannot be too much exposed 
to the sun. They are planted out in the flower beds of some of the London 
parks in the summer, and strong plants produce larger heads of scarlet flowers. 
Standen’s Manure ( Worcester Subscribe>•). —In reply to your question as 
to where Standen's manure can be bought, as you “never saw it advertised,” 
we believe it is sold by most nurserymen and seedsmen. Messrs. Corry, Soper, 
Fowler & Co., 18, Finsbury Street, London, E.C., are the proprietors, but we are 
not able to say whether they sell it retail or not. This excellent manure is 
perhaps not sufficiently advertised. 
Carnation A. Alegatiere (M. T., Halifax). —If you mean by a “tree” 
Carnation a variety that flowers freely and continuously you may include this 
in your collection, but it is so dwarf in habit that the term “ tree ” is a mis¬ 
nomer. It is one of the dwarfest, brightest, and floriferous varieties we know, 
and flowers with great freedom m winter when the plants are young and 
vigorous. A light house, with a temperature of 45° to 50°, is essential for 
insuring a supply of Carnations through the winter. 
Planting Potatoes in the Autumn (B. L. E., Surrey). —In some soils, 
seasons, and districts autumn planting has been successful, but we believe it is 
neither adopted as a system by those who grow tubers for exhibition nor for pro¬ 
viding them in quantity for the market. It is not a new system by any means, 
but has been practised more or less for at the least half a century. If you choose 
to try the plan the present is the time for inserting the tubers, covering them 
quite 6 inches deep ; but we decline the responsibility of advising you to plant 
your entire stock, or even half of it, now. You had better try the method on a 
small scale as an experiment, and judge for yourself. 
Pruning Clematises (G. Godson). —They do not require pruning so 
severely as you have been informed. If you examine the stems you will find 
some round buds as large as peas, and to these buds the growths may be 
shortened. We should not prune the plants at present, as if the weather should 
prove mild fresh growth might be produced almost at once, and receive injury 
by subsequent severe weather. The longer the buds indicated remain dormant 
the more likely are the young growths to escape destruction by frost. February 
is a good time for pruning Clematises, and we should not prune them before 
then, unless the appearance of the plants was objectionable. 
Pruning Fig Tree (Swanley). —The reason your Fig tree did not bear 
when it was pruned severely was because the subsequent growths were too 
strong and luxuriant. Such growths always follow after close pruning unless 
the roots are pruned also. As the tree is now objectionable in appearance you 
may remove those growths or branches that are strong, securing those of a more 
stubby and short-jointed character to the wall, not shortening them. This 
should be done now; but if you remove any considerable portion of the tree, 
you had better also dig a trench round it and cut off all the roots beyond a 
certain radius, to be determined by the size and vigour of the tree, and fill the 
trench with old lime rubbish and similar material, pressing it down as firmly as 
possible with a rammer. 
Cleansing a Vinery (Regent). —No measures that you can adopt now will 
prevent the red spider attacking your Vines next year if preventive measures 
are neglected in summer, as appears to have unavoidably been the case this year. 
After pruning the Vines we should wash the rods with a solution of nicotine 
soap or Gishurst compound ; or, failing these, softsoap, using 4 ozs. of either 
to a gallon of water, applying with a brush, scrubbing the Vines well with the 
solution hotter than the hand can be borne on it, or say at a temperature of 150°. 
If you have not time to crush the sashbars, similarly syringe the roof freely 
with boiling water ; limewash any exposed wall surface, mixing sulphur in the 
wash, and remove the surface soil if the border is inside, and add fresh. A por¬ 
tion of the roof can be done at once, removing the plants for that purpose, and 
those on the back wall can be covered with mats to prevent them being injured 
by the hot water. We shall be obliged if you will inform us with what plants 
your “ unheated vinery ” is filled during the winter, and the names of the 
climbers on the wall. 
Planting Anemones (D„ Hampstead). —It is not too late to plant the 
tubers, but the sooner they are placed in the beds the better. You will find 
in our “ Florist Flowers ” (price 4jd.), that the Anemone requires a pure loamy 
soil well mixed with sand, such as sometimes is found on the sides of rivers 
naturally mixed with the sand. Choose a situation that is open, but sheltered 
from violent winds or strong twisting currents of air ; then dig out the soil a 
footormore according as the situation is high or low. If high it may be dug 
out 3 or 4 inches deeper, but if low and wet a foot will be sufficient. Mix the 
soil with sand if it requires it, and fill in the bed again to within 6 inches of the 
level of the surface ; then level it, and lay on it a thin covering of thoroughly 
decomposed hotbed manure or cow dung, the latter is to be preferred. Mix this 
well with the soil below. Upon this mixed enriched soil place as much of the 
pure sandy loam as will raise the bed an inch or two above the walk. No dung 
must be among this top stratum of soil, because dung causes the peculiar disease 
called mould to attack the bulbs that come in contact with it. The best season 
for planting is from about the middle of October to the first week in November, 
the bulbs then form roots before severe frosts set in. Should the planting be 
unavoidably delayed, the bed must then be covered with fern or straw. Choose 
a time when the soil is moderately dry and the day fine. Draw drills across the 
bed 2 inches deep and 5 or 6 inches apart, and plant the tubers 5 inches apart in 
the rows. For choice varieties a thin layer of sand scattered under and around 
each tuber will be useful. As soon as the bed is planted cover the tubers with 
sandy loam from a basket or wheelbarrow. Take care that the tubers are placed 
the right side up, by observing the side that has the old small fibres on it. That 
side place next to the bottom of the drill. When all are planted and covered up 
the right depth—2 inches, then level the surface with a garden rake. If the plants 
have any kind of covering and the weather prove mild, the covering should be 
removed and replaced on the likelihood of a rejurn of frost, and when the spring 
sets in remove the shelter entirely. Should the weather prove dry in spring 
give a thorough watering now and then. The bloom will be greatly prolonged 
if an awning of canvas, or even garden mats, be stretched over the bed upon a 
frame of hoops to shelter the flowers from the sun, from high winds, and heavy 
splashing rains. All weeds must be plucked up as they appear, and a diligent 
watch kept for snails and slugs. 
Imported Orchids (Birkenhead).— The Orchids appear to have been very 
incorrectly named. 3 is probably Galeandra Devoniana ; 4 is a Catasetum; 
and 5 is Epidendrum bicornutum ; at least these are doubtlessly the names in¬ 
tended, though whether you have the plants true of course we cannot decide. 
They will not thrive in “ a cool house,” if by that you mean an Odontoglossom 
house, and they must not have a lower minimum winter temperature than 55°, 
and 60° would be much safer and preferable. If they are not showing any 
growth place them in a stove on a shelf or bed where they can be lightly 
syringed, but not frequently. When there is an indication of growth com¬ 
mencing pot them all in a compost of fibrous peat, sphagnum, with a good pro¬ 
portion small pieces of charcoal, well draining the pots and elevating the crown 
of the plants slightly above the rims. Give water liberally as growth progresses, 
and diminish the supply as it becomes matured. The Epidendrum is rather 
difficult to cultivate, but the following notes by an experienced Orchid grower 
who has been very successful with it will explain the treatment required. 
Culture of Epidendrum bicornutum (Idem). —“ The best way to grow 
it is in baskets suspended from the roof, or on pieces of Tree Fern stem. I have 
grown and flowered it under both systems, and if grown in baskets a compost 
of very fibry peat, moss, and charcoal should be employed. The plant roots 
freely in its natural habitat, but is rather shy-rooting under cultivation. The 
plant is a native of the West Indian Islands, particularly Trinidad, consequently 
it requires the temperature of the East Indian house. Having a friend living 
in Trinidad, I wrote him for particulars with regard to where it was found and 
under what conditions, and I will give his reply as I received it. He writes, 
‘ With regard to your questions respecting E. bicornutum, if I tell you how I 
collected it no doubt that will suffice. I went out one day last week, hired a 
boat to carry me to the Five Islands, a group of irregular size, standing at no 
great height out of the water, in one bend or basin of our harbour, which may 
be called rocks left after the severance of that part from the mainland by the 
encroaching influence of the sea. Bound these islands one can sail and soon 
load his boat by pulling the tufts off the ledges of the rocks or any cavity. It 
is subject to drenchings of water by the action of the waves, is generally fully 
exposed to the sun, and as it is surrounded by water the plant must be subject 
to heavy dews owing to the great variation in temperature of the land at night. 
I soon collected a load, though I am afraid they are too much advanced in 
growth for travelling.’ By these remarks it is easily perceived that the three 
most essential requirements of E. bicornutum are heat, exposure to sun, mois¬ 
ture, and a moderately low night temperature, and if these be carefully attended 
to it should make satisfactory progress. Any trouble bestowed on it will, I am 
convinced, well repay the cultivator.” 
Names of Fruits (R. J. Lynch). —1, Gloria Mundi; 2, Hawthornden ; 
3, Fearns’ Pippin ; 4, Golden Noble. The Pear was too far decayed to be recog¬ 
nised. (Sliford). —Urbaniste. (T. Trollope ).—Golden Pippin. ( J. L. B. J .).— 
These are probably local varieties, except 6, which is Lemon Pippin. 1 re¬ 
sembles Mfere de Mbnage, and 5 Beinette de Canada. (Cambridge).—Pears : 1, 
Comte de Lamy ; 2, rotten. Apples: 1, Melon Apple; 2, Cox’s Orange Pippin. 
The other we do not recognise. Were not the names sent with the trees from 
Sawbridgeworth ? (An Old Subscriber ).—Large Apples Beauty of Kent, the 
three small green ones Stamford Pippin. 
Names of Plants ( Subscriber). —1, Thuia occidentalis ; 2, Cedrus atlantica ; 
3, Juniperus virginiana Schottii; 4, Thuia Lobbi; 5, Juniperus communis 
hibernica. (Grantham). —Chrysanthemum segetum. (J. Humberstone). —1, Eu- 
patorium odoratum; 2, Epiphyllum truncatum, var. Bussellianum ; 3, Oestrum 
aurantiacum ; 4, Salvia Bruanti; 5, Erica colorans ; 6, Lasiandra macrantha. 
(W. D.). —1, Asplenium viviparum; 2, Pteris scaberula ; 3, Adiantum trapezi- 
forme. (Oallands). —1, Odontoglossum Halli; 2, Oncidium crispum. 
CO VENT GABDEN MABKET.— November 22nd. 
Trade steady with little to note. St. Michael Pines are now to hand, con¬ 
siderably affecting home produce; but good well-grown fruit will still find a 
ready market. Kent Cobs are firm, with a slight rise. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
s. d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples. 
1 sieve 
2 
0to7 0 
Lemons. 
0to30 
0 
Apricots. 
doz. 
0 
0 
0 0 
Melons. 
a 
0 
3 
0 
Cherries. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Nectarines.. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Chestnuts. 
bushel 10 
0 
12 0 
Oranges .... 
6 
0 
10 
0 
Currants, Black.. 
i sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Peaches .... 
0 
0 
0 
0 
m Red.... 
j sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Pears.kitchen .. dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Figs. 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 0 
dessert .... 
1 
0 
3 
0 
Filberts. 
lb. 
0 
6 
0 0 
Pine Apples, 
English tb. 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Cobs. 
100tb. 
15 
0 
50 0 
. tb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Gooseberries .... 
i sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Strawberries 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Grapes . 
tb. 
1 
0 
3 0 
VEGETABLES. 
8 
d. 
s. d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Artichokes. 
dozen 
2 
0 to 4 0 
1 
O to 1 
G 
Asparagus. 
bundle 
0 
0 
0 0 
Mushroom a 
i 
0 
1 
6 
Beans,Kidney.... 
100 
1 
0 
0 0 
Mustard & Cress ..punnet 
0 
a 
0 
3 
Beet, Red. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 0 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 6 
Parsley. 
doz.bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts.. 
J sieve 
1 
o 
a o 
Parsnips .... 
1 
0 
2 
0 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 0 
0 
0 
0 
o 
Capsicums. 
100 
1 
6 
2 0 
6 
o 
7 
0 
Carrots . 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 0 
Kiduey.... 
6 
0 
8 
0 
Cauliflowers. 
dozen 
2 
0 
S 0 
Radishes.... 
doz. bunches 
i 
0 
0 
6 
Celery . 
bundle 
1 
6 
a o 
Rhubarb .... 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 0 
Salsafy. 
i 
0 
0 
0 
Cucumbers. 
each 
0 
4 
0 8 
Seorzonera 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Endive. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 0 
2 
G 
o 
Fennel. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 0 
Shallots .... 
0 
S 
0 
4 
Garlic .. 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 0 
Spinach .... 
s 
0 
0 
0 
Herbs . 
bunch 
o 
2 
0 0 
tb. 
0 
4 
e 
8 
Leeks. 
bunch 
0 
> 
0 i 
Turnips .... 
0 
a 
0 
4 
