486 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ November ss, isss. 
central shoot or shoots cut back as necessary to originate growths 
for regularly filling up the allotted space. The fan mode of training 
is the best where the trees have a good run of trellis or wall, as by 
this method means are afforded of filling up vacancies occasioned by 
gumming, to which Cherry trees under any conditions are peculiarly 
liable. Except for the purpose indicated above, or where the limits 
of the trellis necessitates its being done, it is not advisable to shorten 
the terminal shoots. This should be attended to at once, and a com¬ 
plete cleansing of the house effected. The trees also should be 
washed with soap and water (8 ozs. softsoap to a gallon of water) 
and afterwards with an insecticide. The light must also be replaced, 
but the house fully ventilated until the time arrives for starting 
the trees. 
Figs .—Pruning Fig trees requires some experience and no little 
judgment, local circumstances entirely governing the mode of culti¬ 
vation, and consequently that of pruning. In the case of trees grown 
in pots or having the roots restricted to small borders, and conse¬ 
quently not growing vigorously, very little pruning will be neces¬ 
sary, provided during the season of growth proper attention has 
been given to stopping and thinning out the shoots. Trees, however, 
that have not the roots so restricted and have a good run of trellis, 
the object being to secure a series of young growths over the whole 
surface of the trellis, from which the crop of Figs is to be chiefly 
obtained, the pruning requires to be severe at the top part of the 
trees. The shoots which have attained the limit of the trellis should 
be shortened back to where the succeeding shoots start, in order 
that the latter may occupy the place of the former in the ensuing 
season. Elongated spurs should be removed, reserving the short- 
jointed and fruitful, but be careful not to overcrowd. After pruning 
loosen the trees from the trellis and thoroughly cleanse the house, 
washing or painting the woodwork and trellis, limewashing the 
walls. The trees should be dressed with an insecticide after washing 
them with tepid soap and water. Train and tie the trees regularly, 
allowing plenty of space in the ties. Point over the surface of the 
borders without injuring the roots, remove the loose material, and 
apply a top-dressing of partially decayed manure 3 or 4 inches thick. 
The house should be fully ventilated, except during frost. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Liliums .—If these are not yet potted no time should be lost in 
completing the work before they begin rooting ; L. longiflorum roots 
early, and cannot endure having the soil too dry. This is one of the 
most useful of Lilies for early flowering, as it bears gentle forcing, 
and, being grown in small pots,is fine for decoration. Lilium auratum 
is also an early flowerer and roots early. The early-flowered plants 
will now be pushing fresh fibres, and if this is the case they should 
not on any account be disturbed ; indeed, unless the soil be not 
occupied with roots, having become a close mass, it is not neces¬ 
sary, or even advisable, to repot Liliums annually, but if the pots 
are too small the plants should be transferred to larger pots with 
the ball entire, or the sides merely loosened and the crocks re¬ 
moved ; whilst those not needing larger pots should merely have the 
surface soil removed, adding fresh, after seeing that the drainage 
is efficient. Those that have the soil sodden should have every 
particle of soil removed and be placed in fresh compost, placing a 
little silver sand under and around the bulbs. Turfy loam, with a 
fifth of old decayed manure, a sixth of charcoal broken small, and 
a little sand, will grow Liliums well. Although Liliums do not like 
a very wet soil, it ought not to become very dry even when they 
are at rest, but should be kept moist. If the pots are plunged in 
ashes in a pit where they will be safe from frost they will need 
but little attention during the winter. 
BEE PLANTS. 
We were somewhat surprised on glancing over the pages of the 
“ American Bee Journal ” of the 18th ultimo at finding a para¬ 
graph under the above heading from an English correspondent, Mr. 
E. H. Bellairs of Christchurch, Hants, to the following effect :— 
“I have read your instructive article on Sweet Clover, and as it 
is unknown here, and not mentioned in any of our seedsmen’s 
catalogues, I will take it as a great favour if you will send me a 
small packet of seed to experiment with in our climate.” If Mr. 
Bellairs had consulted us we should have replied that the plant 
he was in search of, so far from being mnknown in England, was 
remarkably well known, we having cultivated it for a period of 
thirty years solely for our bees, and having repeatedly seen it 
growing in cottage gardens in various parts of this country. 
The term “ Sweet Clover,” like much other American nomen¬ 
clature, is simply a misnomer, since all Clovers (Trifoliums) are 
sweet-scented, and preferred by the bees to any other plant grown. 
The proper name of this plant is Melilotus leucantha, in plain 
English White-flowered Melilot, a biennial which grows freely 
in any soil to the height of 6 feet, with very branching stems 
and large clusters of sweet-scented white flowers. 
The best time for sowing is the early autumn, and generally 
speaking it does not bloom until the second year, flowering pro¬ 
fusely through July and August, when it forms seed and dies. 
It may, however, be sown at the spring time, and succeeds well. 
Its one great disadvantage is that it i3 useless to the farmer, even 
as bedding for his cattle, after seeding. We have known it 
harvested as hay, though doubtless if well secured before bloom¬ 
ing it might form a rough kind of Clover hay. It is of the same 
class as the Melilotus officinalis, or yellow Melilot, so common in 
many parts of the country, although it has been described as a 
distinct species -the result of cultivation. The yellow kind is 
an annual, grows to the height of 2 or 3 feet only, and is cul¬ 
tivated as food for cattle, growing in thickets, hedges, and 
borders of fields. When dried it gives a strong scent of new- 
mown bay. 
From our own observation the Melilotus leucantha is preferred 
by the bees to any known plant, and is unequalled as regards the 
quantity and quality of the nectar secreted, and, which is even of 
more importance, yields its precious nectar in all seasons. We 
have never found any difficulty in procuring the seed from our 
principal seedsmen when giving its proper name, and we strongly 
advise our bee-keeping readers, if not already cultivating it, to 
give it a trial. 
HIVES. 
(Continued from page 415.) 
At the bottom of page 414 of the Journal for November 2nd 
read “ When made the frame should hang clear of the floor-board 
and sides of the hive by a quarter of an inch.” 
We will now proceed to describe the other parts of the hive not 
considered in our last letter. The roof is constructed as follows : 
For the sides of the roof two pieces of three-quarter-inch wood, 
each 23| inches long, and cut like fig. 80. For the front and 
back two pieces 18£ inches long, the front board to be 9 or 
11 inches broad (A, fig. 81), and the back one 7 or 9 inches broad 
(b, fig. 82), according to the width of stuff one has in use, which 
would be either 11 inches or 9 inches broad. The lesser height 
will allow ample space for two tiers of sections. In the centre of 
the two last-named pieces (which are to form the front and back 
of the roof) aud near the top cut three holes (C, fig. 81) about an 
inch in diameter with a centrebit, or if this cannot be obtained 
a keyhole saw will answer the purpose. On the inside over these 
holes tack strips of perforated zinc. These holes are to give free 
ventilation to the hive. All noxious vapours and dampness will 
rise through the quilt to the inside of the roof, and will pass off 
through these openings. It must be impressed on those making 
bar-frame hives for the first time that it is better to err on the 
side of too much ventilation through the roof of the hive than in 
giving too little. These four pieces may now be nailed together 
quite square. It is as well to place them over the hive on the bearers 
