JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
November 30, 1882.] 
30th 
Tn 
Eoyal Society at 4.30 P.M. 
1st 
F 
2nd 
S 
3rd 
Sun 
1st Sunday in Advent. 
4 til 
M 
5th 
Tu 
Sale of Nursery Stock at Sunbury by Messrs. Protheroe & Morris. 
6th 
W 
Society of Arts at 8 P.M. 
PRUNING AND TRAINING FRUIT TREES. 
INTER pruning should be done as soon after 
the leaves have fallen from the trees as pos¬ 
sible ; but newly planted trees are best pruned 
in February. Pruning may seem a simple 
matter, and it is for those who know how to 
do it ; but to be a good pruner instructions 
are requisite from a practical man who thoroughly 
understands hardy fruit culture, with careful study 
of the character of the trees. As many have not that 
opportunity I will offer a few remarks, w r hich may be 
acceptable to some readers of the Journal. 
Some people think that pruning is simply cutting away long 
growths that have been made during the summer ; but where 
trees are properly managed those shoots are removed during 
August after the trees have made their summer growth. Prun¬ 
ing should be directed to insure the proper balancing of the 
tree and to induce fertility. Severe pruning is not required 
for orchard standards, except during their early stages, so as 
to produce a foundation for the future tree, after which all 
that is required is thinning the branches to prevent crowding 
and keeping the centre of the tree open. When pruning young 
pyramid Apple and Pear trees lay a good foundation at the 
base of the tree, so as to insure it becoming of good shape. 
It will soon make its top growth. In some cases the shoots 
will require to be cut back severely, so as to balance the tree 
evenly. After the trees have made their summer growth cut 
back the leading growths which are to furnish the tree to 
about two-thirds of their length if they have grown strong, 
cutting-in the lateral growths to about four eyes. 
At the winter pruning balance the leading shoots, so as to 
form the framework of the tree, and prune the laterals in to 
one or two eyes to form fruit spurs. Do not cut off any fruit 
buds, which are easily distinguished by their round plump ap¬ 
pearance. Old-established trees, if they have been summer- 
pruned, require the laterals to be pruned back to one eye or 
close to the fruit buds, cutting out any branches that are 
crowding the others. Some Apples are not well adapted for 
pyramids, and should be grown bush shape. These are such 
as Small’s Admirable, Cornish Gilliflower, Betty Geeson, and 
others of similar habit. 
Espalier Apples .—These look very pretty grown by the side 
of walks. The branches should be trained about 15 inches 
apart. Prune the growths to four eyes in August, removing 
all growths as they appear afterwards. At the winter pruning 
cut these in close to the fruit spurs, pruning the leading 
growths to 18 inches, so as to cause them to break back. 
493 
Cordons .—These are grown as horizontal cordons, trained 
about 18 inches from the ground, but are more frequently 
trained obliquely to a trellis at an angle of 45°. This style of 
growing Apples produces very fine fruit, and a large collection 
may be grown in a small space for exhibition. These require 
the same kind of pruning as for espaliers. The horizontal 
cordons are very pretty by the margin of walks. Plant 12 feet 
apart, and train to a strained wire 18 inches from the ground. 
When the leader of one tree meets the bend of the next it may 
be grafted on to it. 
Pears on Walls .—Good trained trees are not seen so much 
in gardens as formerly., I think if young gardeners would 
pay more attention to hardy fruit culture it would be much 
better for them. Pears may be grown in different shapes on 
walls, but the majority are trained horizontally and fan-shaped. 
If the wall will permit of the trees being trained fan shape do 
so, if not train them horizontally. In the first place see that 
the trees are young and healthy. The following method of 
training fan shape is good. Choose a tree wuth each pair of 
branches equal distance from the others. A tree that has been 
trained for a horizontal will do well. Train the branches at 
an angle of 45°, taking the leader straight up, to be cut back 
at the winter pruning so as to cause three more shoots at equal 
distance from the others. At the August pruning cut the 
breastwood in, leaving the leading shoots entire. At the 
winter pruning cut the laterals in closely so as to form fruit 
spurs, or close to the fruit buds. Prune the leading shoots 
back two-thirds of their length, so as to cause the back buds 
to break. Another mode of fan-training is to procure a young 
tree with about six shoots, starting from the base. Train the 
lowest tier of branches almost horizontally ; regulate those 
equally that are left, keeping the centre open to throw strength 
into the lower branches. Cut each shoot (except the lower 
tier, which also should be shortened a little to make the back 
buds break) to about 18 inches ; train as many shoots from 
them as you can without crowding (about 1 foot apart or 
18 inches will do well), and carry them on annually until the 
tree is furnished. If any of the branches seem wide apart as 
they advance train other branches from them, so as to furnish 
the tree thoroughly. When any of the spurs become long 
cut a few back annually, so as to keep the tree uniform. 
The cordon system of training is very simple. The first 
year plant at an angle of 60°, the next year train them at an 
angle of 45°, or those trees that have grown well. The first 
year after planting cut each cordon back two-thirds of its 
length, and at each succeeding season cut back the leader 
according to its strength, always being careful to cut back to 
a wood bud. As the trees advance in age, if any are seen not 
likely to reach the top of the wall do not let them fruit, and 
assist them at their roots as recommended in a former article 
for exhausted trees. This mode of training is not yet general 
in England, but it is well worth practising, as many varieties 
may be grown in a small space. 
Plums and Cherries for Walls .—These should be grown fan 
shape. Keep the lower tier of branches well down and the 
centre open until the lower part of the tree is well furnished, 
then fill up the centre and lay in fruitful wood as required. 
Cut out all exhausted and worthless wood at the winter prun¬ 
ing. Young Plums and Cherries should not be pruned back 
severely, only balancing the trees. Plums and Cherries make 
very fruitful^trees if grown as pyramids for a fruit garden. If 
No. 127 .—Yol. V., Tjiird Series, 
No, 1783.— Yol, LXV1II., 'Ll) Series. 
