November 30, 1882. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 511 
ance he may be able to give by sowing seeds of honey-producing 
flowers, or by feeding to bridge over any gaps in the natural supply. 
—W. Kaitt, Blairgowrie . 
(To be continued.) 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
N. Davis, 06, Warner Road, Camberwell, London, S.E.— Catalogue 
of New and Old Chrysanthemums. 
S. Dixon & Co., Anton Street, Hackney.— Catalogue of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums and Hoses. 
Dickson & Robinson, 12, Old Millgate, Manchester.— Catalogue of 
Forest and Ornamental Trees. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Coloured Plates of Orchids (I V. T.). — Perhaps Mr. B. S. 'Williams, 
Upper Holloway, can give you the information required. 
Celery fox* Exhibition (E. C.). —If you require large heads, which are 
usually coveted by exhibitors, Wright's Grove Bed and Grove White will afford 
them under good cultivation. We have seen many heads of these varieties 9 lbs. 
in weight. The seed can be had from any nurseryman or seed firm of repute 
either in London or the provinces. 
Roman Hyacinths and Narcissuses (Silopian). —If you can grow 
the plants after flowering in a light house, so as to produce stout healthy foliage, 
and keep it green as long as possible, then mature the plants under the influ¬ 
ence of sun and air, they will flower pretty well another year if planted in a 
border, but usually the room and time thus occupied are not profitably employed, 
since fresh and good bulbs can be produced so cheaply. When not forced so 
early they are much more easily prepared for flowering another year in the open 
ground. 
Kangaroo Vine (Kiltie). —The plant to which you refer under the above 
name is Cissus antarctica, a member of the same natural order as the Grape 
Vine. It is a native of New South Wales, and was introduced to this country 
at the close of the last century. It is frequently seen in some of the London 
parks, especially at Battersea, where it is planted to climb over old stumps and 
tree stems in the subtropical garden. 
Fear Trees Cankered (F. G .).—The wood that you have sent indicates 
either that the soil needs draining or that it contains something that is in¬ 
jurious to the roots. Probably an excess of moisture and a deficiency of cal- 
careous matter have caused succulent growths which have not matured, and 
hence their decay. Drain the land, and replant the trees slightly above the 
general level of the ground rather than below it, placing fresh loam round the 
roots, with an admixture of lime rubbish and wood ashes. Cut off the affected 
parts, keep the growths thin, and in all probability the trees will recover. 
Adliatoda cydoniaefolia (II. IT.).—You will find an excellent engrav¬ 
ing of this plant on page 543, December 15th, 1881, when the following cultural 
and descriptive particulars were given This plant is easily cultivated, and is 
worth a place in any collection of plants, and what adds to its value is that it 
blooms at a season when flowers are scarce. Perhaps its only objection is 
that it has rather a straggling habit of growth, but the way to overcome this 
objection is to train it under the roof or up a pillar ; in such positions it appears 
quite at home. The best time to propagate it is in spring when it has com¬ 
menced growing. The cuttings strike very readily in a little bottom heat, and 
should be potted as soon as rooted in a light rich soil. As soon as the pots are 
filled with roots the plants must again be potted, and when established the tops 
may be pinched to induce them to branch. After this they may either be grown 
on in larger pots, or planted out in a border in the stove and trained up a pillar 
or under the roof. A. cydoniaefolia is a native of Brazil, and therefore requires 
a stove temperature or an intermediate house.” 
Grapes for Autumn (J. R., Bury St. Edmunds). —There is no Grape that 
possesses “all the advantages and good qualities of the Black Hamburgh.” A 
free-bearing and good-setting Grape, as likely to answer your purpose as any 
other, would be the Black Alicante. Although not of high quality the bunches 
are unusually good and the berries fine, assuming a purplish-black colour and 
fine bloom, giving them an imposing appearance. By planting in the warmest 
house, and starting as soon as you can consistently with being able to maintain 
a night temperature of 60° to 65° during the flowering period, the Grapes will 
follow the Black Hamburgh, and continue firm throughout the winter. You 
might try a Vine of Madresfield Court. It is a splendid autumn Grape, and 
if the berries do not crack you will probably increase it. It follows the Black 
Hamburgh, but does not keep nearly so well as the Alicante. 
Potting Pelargoniums (Donegal).— Your Madame Thibaut that is now 
fading had better not be cut down and repotted now. riace the plants in a light 
position, and only give water sufficient to prevent the leaves drooping to any 
great extent. As they are turning yellow they will probably decay gradually 
and fall in the course of a month or two. At that time, say in February, the 
stems will be hard, and the plants may then be cut down, still keeping them 
rather dry. In March they will have commenced fresh growth, and when the 
young shoots are an inch long turn the plants out of the pots, shaking nearly 
all the soil from their roots, and repot in pots of the same size or smaller, drain¬ 
ing them well, and using a compost of turfy loam with a third of very old 
decayed manure or leaf soil, with sand to keep the whole porous, and afford the 
plants a light position in a house having a genial temperature. They will then, 
if watered judiciously, produce strong and healthy growths, and in time fine 
trusses of flowers. If cut down now the growths will be weak, because produced 
in the dull months. 
Propagating Clematises (Idem). —Clematises are not readily increased 
by cuttings, or, at least, it is seldom that amateurs succeed in striking them. 
Short stubby shoots about 5 inches long, rather firm, but not hard, taken off 
close to the stem from which they spring and inserted in sand, covered with a 
bellglass, and the pot plunged in gentle heat, is the manner in which we have 
succeeded. Plants of the choicer varieties are increased by grafting them on roots 
of the freer-growing kinds established in pots and placed in a propagating pit. 
You will find full particulars on the propagation and culture of these plants on 
page 349, vol. ii., third series, the issue of May 5th, 1881. If you do not possess 
this number it can be had from the publishers in return for 3 \d. in postage 
stamps. 
Various (Idem). —Boses in the open air cannot be expected to continue 
flowering much longer. The unopened buds will be destroyed if not protected, 
and they cannot be preserved if the frost is prolonged and severe. Against 
slight frosts you may protect them by. such means as you have at disposal or can 
devise. There is no Bose proof against the attacks of aphides. Dwarf crimson 
China Boses, such as Fabvier and Cramoisie Superieure, are pretty in pots in 
small greenhouses. A good very dark Hybrid Perpetual Bose is Louis Van Houtte, 
Senateur Vaisse having more scarlet and very bright. Petunias in pots will 
flower a second year. The plants must not be cut down closely now, but long 
shoots may be shortened. It is well to raise young plants in the spring from 
cuttings, which strike l'eadily in a heated frame. 
Apples and Plums for Market (J. E.). — You wall find Damsons 
profitable fruit, and we should plant those in the hedgerow, leaving the 
meadow for the standard Apples. The Farleigh or Crittenden and the Prune 
are the best Damsons for market. The new large Bullace is useful, coming 
in after the chief crop. Early Apples as standards will pay you best. Good 
showy Apples must be provided to suit the market, such as Worcester Pear- 
main, Ecklinville Seedling, Lord Suffield, Cox’s Pomona, Cellini, King of the 
Pippins, Small’s Admirable, Stirling Castle, and Duchess of Oldenburgh. If 
any of them succeed in your locality better than others you should plant those 
in quautity. You will, however, succeed much better on the cultivated ground. 
Plums and Apples succeed well together as dwarfs, the Apples on the Paradise 
stock. Plant in alternate rows 8 feet apart, with Gooseberries between, which 
pay well if gathered green. The following Apples do well as dwarfs, supplement¬ 
ing those enumerated above : Irish Peach, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Warner’s King, 
Bibston Pippin, Dumelow’s Seedling, Betty Geeson, and Manmngton Pearmain. 
The last four are late varieties, but well worth growing. The following Plums 
do well as dwarfs : Rivers’ Early Prolific, Belle de Septembre, Prince Englebcrt, 
Prince of Wales, The Czar, Sultan, and Victoria, all of them being good for 
market. Early Prolific comes in before the market is glutted, and Belle de 
Septembre after. 
Seakale Boxes (Melton). —We are not aware that any firm makes what 
you require, and we would rather purchase pots than wooden covers for placing 
over the crowns, as heat does nor pass through wood so well as through earthen¬ 
ware. Still, boxes have been used successfully by Mr. Gilbert of Burghley, and 
the annexed figure of one of his will enable you to make any number of a similar 
kind. They are simply four boards nailed together without dovetailing. They 
are a foot wide at the top, increasing to 18 inches at the bottom for covering 
the root. In height they vary from 18 to 30 inches, according as they are re¬ 
quired for Seakale or strong-growing Rhubarb. 
Pruning Trees (A Twenty-years Subscriber ).—The length to which the 
shoots of newly-planted trees should be shortened depends very much on the 
roots. If they are well rooted you may remove about one-third or a little more ; 
but if the roots are not numerous, or have been much cut in digging up, then 
shorten the shoots to half their length. Just as the sap is moving in the spring 
