636 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . [ December 7,1 882 . 
tively you would have observed that we have repeatedly said we do not nor 
cannot recommend dealers through our pages. 21 oz. thirds will be suitable, or 
16 oz. seconds will do very well if the sashbars are not more than 10 inches apart. 
You can obtain the other particulars you require by consulting our advertising 
columns and writing for price lists. 
Destroying American Blight (B. J. Elliott).— You say you have heard 
of tar being used for this purpose, but you cannot remember by whom nor in 
what manner it was applied. Mr. Speed, the able gardener to the Duke of 
Devonshire at Chatsworth, recommends the following as an infallible remedy. 
Take a pint of gas tar and mix with it a pint of dry powdered clay. Form 
the whole into a paste by adding by degrees a gallon of warm soft water. If 
this is applied with a brush during winter it effectually destroys woolly aphis, 
and indeed all insects, while it does not injure the trees. 
Wiring a Vinery (A Constant Reader). —A distance of 18 inches from the 
glass is suitable for stretching the wires, these to be 10 inches apart, and 
stretched from end to end of the house across the lights, and not from the 
bottom to the top of the house in the direction of the sashbars. Mr. Luckhurst 
has found that suspending the rods a foot or so from the wires is a good plan, 
and we have no doubt whatever that it is, as there is then less danger of the 
laterals being broken by bending them down to the wires. In the large vinery 
at Longleat the trellis is 3 or 4 feet from the glass, but 18 inches suffices in 
ordinary structures,*and you may rely on this distance as being safe. 
Tomatoes in Vineries (F. II'.). — Some of the finest crops we have ever 
seen were grown against the back walls of vineries before the Vines were 
established, and we have seen very useful crops in these positions even when die 
Vines were fully grown, and the Tomatoes had only glimpses of sun, as the 
foliage of the Vines almost entirely covered the roof of the house. Tomatoes 
in a house with Vines do no harm whatever unless they are planted in the Vine 
border or the growths crowded amongst the Vine leaves, and no sensible man 
would do this. 
Stoi ing and Ripening Medlars (.4 Subscriber). — Medlars may be 
treated in every respect similar to dessert Apples. If stored eyes downward on 
shelves in a dry room, or the fruit room, they will ripen naturally ; but ripening 
may be hastened by placing fruit in a box or basket in a warm room. With ns 
the Dutch Medlar ripened some time ago, and this is the largest variety. The 
Nottingham is later, of better quality, and is now eatable. The supply of 
either sort can be prolonged by gathering at intervals, and bv artificially ripen¬ 
ing of a part of the crop when this happens to be gathered all at one time. 
Prices of Grapes (J . J/.).—As you arc well aware, the price of Grapes 
depends not on the quality of the fruit when cut from the Vines so much as on 
its condition when it reaches the market. AVe are well aware of the accuracy 
of your statement, and we are also aware from other letters on the same subject 
which reach us from time to time complaining of the low prices that fruit has 
realised, that it would do more harm than good to publish what you have 
written with the best intentions. AVe have to recognise the fact that hundreds 
of cultivators of Grapes cannot produce such high-class fruit and place it in the 
market in such good condition as you can and the celebrated grower to whom 
you refer. Grapes of very superior quality occasionally realise considerably 
higher pi ices than those published, but they in no sense represent the general 
tone of the market. 
Forcing Rhubarb (R. Watson). — You have adopted the method which 
is geneially pursued in forcing Rhubarb, and if you maintain a temperature 
ot about 60° in the pots, crowns will start in about a fortnight, and stalks be 
ready for pulling in a month. Some varieties of Rhubarb do not force so well 
as others, and the crowns do not start so quickly into growth in November as 
during the early months of the year. Many persons obtain early Rhubarb by 
digging up the roots and packing them in Mushroom houses, or placing them 
in pots or tubs under the stage of a plant stove or in any warm place such as 
a cellar or stable. 
Roses for Exhibition (II. S. P.). —The following are twenty of the best 
Hybrid I erpetnals Marie Baumann, A. K. AVilliams, Alfred Colomb, La 
France, Baronne de Rothschild, Charles Lcfebvre, Marquise de Castellane, Duke 
of Edinburgh, Etienne Levet, Marie Rady, Capitaine Christy, Louis A'an Houtte, 
Dr. Andry, Ferdinand de Lesseps, Francois Michelon, Madame Victor Verdier 
Mane Finger, Comtesse d’Oxford, Mons. E. Y. Teas, and Madame G. Luizet Six 
good Tea Roses are Catherine Mermet, Mardchal Niel, Souvenir d’un Ami, Marie 
Van Houtte, Souvenir d’Elise, and Devoniensis. 
Eupatorium odoratunx (IF. J. M.). —This very useful plant is easily 
grown, and its abundant supnlies of white fragrant flowers are most valuable at 
this time of year. To obtain large specimens the plants should be placed out in 
a border during the summer, being lifted and potted in autumn; and after 
keeping them close for a day or two until they have recovered they can be 
transferred to the greenhouse or conservatory, or any similar structure. Turfy 
loam, a little leaf soil, and well-decomposed manure form a suitable compost, 
and if the plants are retained inkpots occasional supplies of weak liquid manure 
will be beneficial. This plant is readily increased by cuttings of the young 
growths treated like ordinary softwooded plants. 
Pit for Growing Gardenias (F. II. F.). — A half-span is the most 
suitable. The width should not be less than 10 feet inside, which will allow of 
a border at the back 2 feet 7g inches wide, divided from the pathway by a 
4J-inch brick wall, then the pathway 2 feet 6 inches wide; and with a 4J-inch 
wall to form the side of the front border, the latter will be 4 feet 1A inch wide 
The walls forming the sides of the pathway should be 2 feet 6 inches high the" 
top course of bricks laid in cement, or have a stone or coping. If bottom heat 
be sought it should be furnished by liot-water pipes. Two 3-inch pipes will be 
necessary for the front bed, disposed a foot from the walls all around, and 
* covered with thin slabs of stone or slate, so as to form a chamber a foot deep 
which will leave 18 inches minus the thickness of the stone or slate covering’ 
One 3-inch pipe will be sufficient for the back border, placing it up the centre’ 
The covering of the chamber should have the joints left open, and have 3 inches 
of rubble on the chamber covers; and if the plants are to be planted out have 
the rough of the compost placed over the rubble, and then fill in with soil for 
growing the plants, than which nothing answers better than turfy loam, with a 
tenth of sand incorporated and a twentieth of charcoal broken up small. If the 
plants are to be grown in pots cocoa-nut fibre refuse may be employed in place of 
the compost as a plunging material for the pots; and if the borders are to be used 
as spaces for fermenting materials, to give bottom heat in place of the hot-water 
pipes, the depth should be increased a foot by excavating the bottom. The 
back wall should be 6 feet 6 inches high, the front 5 feet, and the height of the 
house from the centre of the path 8 feet, to the under side of the ridge. Venti¬ 
lation need only be provided by the back lights, which should open the entire 
length of the house. No side lights are necessary, and it would be advisable 
tor appearance to sink the house 2 feet in the ground, so as to have less wall 
outside. For top heat three rows of 4-inch pipes will be necessary, taking one 
along the front of the house, and the other on the path walls, or they may be 
placed at the sides of the pathway. 
Carnations in a Cold Frame (Idem). —Souvenir de la Malmaison and 
other tree Carnations may be wintered safely in a cold frame, the pots being 
plunged m ashes, and protection given over the lights at night in frosty 
weather. The plants, however, will not flower until June, at least ours do 
not, and we have some in cold pits to succeed those grown in heat. The plants 
probably become drawn and weak in the greenhouse from their not having a 
light position and sufficient ventilation. The soil may also be too light. Car¬ 
nations liking a rather strong gritty loam enriched moderately with old well- 
decayed manure, and should be potted rather firmly to induce a rather short- 
jointed growth and free disposition to flower. To have Carnations flowering in 
winter they require a temperature of 50° by artificial means, and all the light 
possible, with air upon all favourable occasions. It is little use attempting to 
grow Carnations in a house shaded by climbers or other plants and inefficiently 
ventilated. 
Grape Failures (M. I).). —AA'hen you admit growing too heavy crops you 
admit everything; still you say, “ Other cultivators have black Hamburghs in 
July and August, and why cannot I, in a house with plenty of pipes for heat¬ 
ing ? ” You can have them if you regulate the crop in accordance with the 
strength of the Vines, and you cannot have them if you do not do this. The 
earlier Grapes are ripened the lighter the crops must be, because there is not 
nearly the root power for supporting the crop in July that there is, say, a month 
afterwards, and that extra month of root -extension in good soil makes all the 
difference between brown aud black Grapes, the system of management in other 
respects being good. Soot is an excellent manure for Vines. But this is not the 
sole cause of your Vines showing so many bunches ; the chief cause is probably 
the thorough ripening of the wood consequent on its being made early and 
having the best and longest portion of the summer in which to mature ; nor is the 
number of bunches that show any criterion that the Vines are not overcropped. 
Their profusion indicates fruitfulness ; but if you leave your usual crop on one 
Vine and have a reduced crop on another of equal strength you will find the 
Grapes on the latter will finish better, but the following spring both Vines 
will show the usual number of bunches if the wood of both is alike strong and 
matured. You are adopting the right course in providing fresh and good soil 
for the roots, as the better the Vines are supported the heavier crops they will 
perfect; and unless you either increase the root-action and food-supply, or 
reduce the weight of Grapes, you will not have well-finished produce even if the 
management as regards temperature and ventilation be the best in the world. 
Pereskia aculeata (Sigma). —The plant of which you seud a fragment is 
Pereskia aculeata, a member of the natural order Cactaceae, and a native of the 
AVest Indies. It is chiefly grown as a stock for Epiphyllums, which are grafted 
on clean stems of the Pereskia, varying in height according to the uses for which 
the plants are intended. For plants in pots a height of 6 inches to 1J foot 
is sufficient; but we have seen the stems taken to a height of 8 feet or more 
before grafting the Epiphyllums upon them. In this case the stems have been 
trained to the wall of a house, and the heads arched over a walk, the suspended 
Epiphyllums having thus a fine effect when in flower. The Pereskia itself is of 
little value except as a curiosity, and is easily grown, though seldom 6een in 
flower. A compost of loam, sand, and small pieces of broken bricks, with a little 
well-decomposed manure, suits it well, and the temperature of a stove is the best 
fitted for it. AVater must be carefully supplied during winter—indeed, very little 
will then be required ; but whilst growing a larger quantity is needed. When 
your plant is large enough we should advise you to gralt an Epiphyllum upon it, 
which you may easily do by cutting the stock to the required length, aud then 
cut the upper part of the stem to a wedge-like point, taking a piece out of the 
base of the scion so that it will fit evenly saddle fashion upon the stock. This 
may be then secured with a piece of matting, aud a union will soon be effected. 
Culture of Fittonias (Idtm). —AA'hen in good condition these are very 
attractive plants, and the silver-veined leaves of F. argyroneura are much valued 
by some persons for table decoration, either at the base of vases or in dishes con¬ 
taining fruits. They may be grown in baskets or pans, the latter being prefer¬ 
able, as they can then be placed in the stove or intermediate house on the stages 
under the shade of the taller-growing plauts, and this appears to suit the Fit¬ 
tonias admirably. They also succeed well in small borders beneath the stages 
when not too near to the hot-water pipes, and while imparting a neat and pleas¬ 
ing appearance to what is often an unsightly part of the house they also prove 
useful in affording a bountiful supply of sprays or leaves for decorative purposes. 
Peat and light turfy loam, with a little sand aud leaf soil, constitute a suitable 
compost, supplying good drainage when the plants are grown in pans. Fit¬ 
tonias can be readily increased by cuttings inserted in sandy soil in slight bottom 
heat. The “ Greenhouse for the Many,” price 9t/., post free 10d., or Johnson’s 
“British Ferns,” price 3^. 6d., post free 3i. 9d„ both published at this office, or 
Mr. B. S. AVilliams’ “ Select Ferns and Lycopods,” price 5s., post free 5s. 5d., would 
suit you. 
Tomatoes in Frames (Hil Desperandum). —You will experience no great 
difficulty in securing an early and continuous supply of Tomatoes in your three- 
light frame. Supposing you have another frame placed on a hotbed and utilised 
for propagating and other purposes in the spring, this would be the place to 
raise the plants. Earley’s Defiance will be found the most profitable variety for 
your purpose, and seed of this or Conqueror—another large free-fruiting variety, 
should be sown early in March thinly in an 8-inch pot or pan. Keep the seed¬ 
lings near the glass, and when in rough leaf pot off singly into 5-inch pots, or in 
pairs in 6-inch pots, sinking them carefully up to the seed leaves in the rather 
light and previously warmed soil. Shade from bright sun, apply water carefully, 
and keep the plants near the glass. AVhen well established they will require all 
the light and as much air as can safely be afforded. In this manner sturdy 
plants will be obtained ready for planting out in the frame early in May. Not 
much bottom heat is required, but a slight hotbed should be formed in order to 
give them a good start. AVe should not fruit them in large pots, preferring to 
plant out. A few days prior to planting cover the whole of the bed with about 
1 foot of soil, consisting, if available, of two parts of turfy loam to one of half- 
decayed stable manure. Dispose about five plauts in each light, these being 
planted in a sloping direction and pegged down, so as to be equally distributed 
about the bed. Continue to train till the frame is thinly filled, afterwards the 
points may be allowed to turn up, and these and a few laterals will furnish 
abundance of clusters of fruit, which will ripen better if staked up. Thin out 
each cluster to about six fruits. Closely rub or pinch out all superfluous growths, 
give abundance of water, varying with liquid manure when in full growth, and 
plenty of air on all favourable occasions ; but do not syringe the plants nor 
throw off the lights during showery weather. The disease will not affect them 
if the foliage is kept dry, and by attending to the above directions there will be 
no necessity to replant during the season. You ought to commence gathering 
fruit early in July, Mr. Iggulden’s treatise on Tomatoes, which you can have 
