JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
580 
but it is well known that many hive3 of bees which have not 
been utterly destroyed from want have suffered much from 
not getting food enough. During the last ten years we have had 
so many unfavourable seasons for honey, that almost all bee¬ 
keepers have had to feed their stocks to keep them alive. In the 
year now passing away feeding has been the chief concern of the 
apiary. If we be favoured with a run of good seasons for honey 
in future, and I hope we may, we cannot expect the run to be 
unbroken. Bad seasons may come and feeding may be necessary, 
and it may be well to point out the dangers of inattention to 
feeding in time of need. Bees that are half fed do not prosper. 
Is it reasonable to expect bees to breed when they have not food 
enough for themselves ? If the honey cells become empty breed¬ 
ing is stopped. In such a crisis hives suffer severe relapses, and 
often do not recover from them for weeks. For a hive full of bees 
and brood much food is required. Brood is heavy and can’t be 
reared without much and substantial materials. During incle¬ 
ment weather artificial food should be administered liberally. 
All the bees of a large swarm cannot get a taste or breakfast on 
or out of a pound of syrup. A few weeks ago a bee-keeper in 
this place wrote to Epworth for bees to strengthen two stocks. 
He had a reply to this effect, that Mr. Addey would not send less 
than 20 s. worth of bees. The Bowdon gentleman did not want 
so many, and he asked if I would take half of them. I consented, 
and the bees came. The day following I got my share, which 
were in a state of starvation. I instantly gave them a pie-dishful 
of syrup, which was soon taken. In removing the dish I saw at 
a glance that half the swarm was still unfed and starving, and 
while I was preparing more food all the bees left the hive as a 
hunger swarm. Pressed by hunger they had resolved to cast 
themselves on the world before the food was administered. 
This hunger swarm was speedily hived and well fed, and is now 
one of my pet stocks. Let bees be kept free from the discourage¬ 
ments of poverty. —A. Pettigrew. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Carter & Co., 237 and 238, High Holborn, London .—Vacle 
Mecum for 1883 (with coloured illustrations). 
S. Dixon & Co,, Hackney .—Catalogues (if Chrysanthemums , Boses, 
and Miscellaneous Plants. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Address {II. T. II.). —We thought everyone interested in flowers knew that 
Mr. Cannell’s establishment is at Swan ley, Kent. The address has appeared in 
our advertising columns probably fifty times during the past twelve months. 
Anemones (.4 Working Man). —The parcel has arrived, and we are obliged 
by your kind attention in this matter. * 
Seedling Apples ( Cosmyne Moore). —Although the varieties may be ser¬ 
viceable in your district, inasmuch as they may be free bearers, yet neither of 
them possesses sufficient merit for placing in commerce. No 1 is of fair quality, 
but No. 2 is very soft in the flesh, and has a peculiar musty flavour. 
Admission to Exhibitions (It. 0 .).—Fellows of the Royal Horticultural 
Society aud others having tickets have admission both to the Shows at South 
Kensington and to the Gardens at Chiswick. Persons are also admitted to the 
Shows by payment at the turnstiles, the prices on the respective days being 
announced in advertisements. Your other question will be answered next week. 
Inarching Vines (J. D.).- —If you have read what we recommended you to 
obtain last week, and require further information that you will specify, we will 
readily aid you, but we cannot give in a short reply such full details as you will 
find recorded in the number of the Journal we quoted (617), which can be had 
from the publisher, price 3%d. post free. 
Chrysanthemum Sport ( W. A. W.). —The large blooms are comparatively 
worthless. It is only by retaining the character of the smaller flower with broad 
incurved petals that the variety can be regarded as good. A further trial is 
evidently needed before the true value of the sport can be determined. 
The Oldest Rose Tree (Curio). —One of the oldest Rose trees of which 
\ 
• [ December 21, 1882. 
we have any record is one that is described as being trained upon one side of the 
Cathedral of Hildesheim, in Germany. The root is buried under the crypt, 
below the choir. The stem is a foot thick, and half a dozen branches nearly 
cover the eastern side of the church, bearing countless flowers in summer. Its 
age is unknown, but documents exist which prove that the Bishop Hezilo, nearly 
a thousand years ago, protected it by a stone roof, which is still extant. 
Cypripedium insigne (It . G. TV.). —Our opinion of the flowers and leaves 
you sent is that the plants from which they were taken must be in excellent 
condition; such vigour could only be produced by the best cultivation. It is 
not uncommon to see twin flowers produced by vigorous plants, and some re¬ 
gard that as a distinct variety, but unless liberally treated the flowers only come 
singly. 
Gathering Mushrooms (II. C., Ilemel Hempstead).— It is not necessary 
to fill up the cavities that are formed by pulling up the Mushrooms ; on the 
contrary, some growers make them larger with a knife. See the notes and 
illustration on page 169 of our issue of August 24th of the present volume. If 
you do not possess that number a copy can be had from the publisher in return 
for 3Jd. in stamps. 
Stocks for Vines (T. A ., Derby). —All the varieties you name make good 
stocks, and you need not hesitate in carrying out your plan ; but we should 
place Gros Colman on one of the Muscats. The Muscat forms a good stock for 
most Vines. For information on inarching see our reply to a correspondent 
last week, also in our present issue. 
Painting Wire (Idem).—In those districts where galvanised wire is in¬ 
jurious to trees the coat of white paint is beneficial; and if the wire in your 
case has had any noxious effects, by all means paint the wire as you propose. 
Climbers for Wall (R. C.). —Most of the plants you name are not suffi¬ 
ciently hardy for your district. There are no evergreen plants that cling to 
the wall except Ivies, and the variegated forms are highly attractive. Cratae¬ 
gus pyracautha is an excellent plant for walls, and we know many examples 
30 feet high. Cotoneaster Simmondsi is good and effective. The common 
white Jasmine would succeed, and the Honeysuckles named last week are also 
quite hardy. 
Ivy for Walls (Arbor). —There is no climbing evergreen that will be so 
suitable for your purpose as the common Ivy, and though we have known many 
walls covered with Ivy to which cattle had access we have never known them 
injured by eating the foliage. The leaves have a bitter taste but are not poisonous, 
as they have been employed in medicine as a dressing for cutaneous eruptions. 
The berries have an acidulous, resinous, and pungent taste, and are said to be 
purgative and emetic. They contain a principle called pederin, which is 
similar to quinia. 
Temperature for a Greenhouse (F. J .).—Provided the temperature does 
not fall below 40° early in the morning the plants which you name will be quite 
safe, but to insure that it must be from 45° to 50°, according to the weather, at 
ten o’clock at night. As a rule a night temperature ranging between 40° and 45° 
is the best for ordinary greenhouse plants in winter, allowing a rise of 5° from 
fire heat alone in the daytime. During bright days the house will often be 
warmer than that without fire, but judgment must be exercised in providing 
artificial Leat sufficiently early' in the afternoon to prevent the temperature sud¬ 
denly falling too low and involving hard firing to increase it. Damp is often 
injurious in greenhouses, and it is a good plan to occasionally heat the pipes on 
a bright and mild day so that the top ventilators can be freely opened for the 
dissipation of moisture. Provided there is no danger from damp you will do 
well not to use any more fuel than is requisite for preventing the temperature 
falling below 45° to 40° at night, nor should it exceed by fire alone 45° to 60° 
during the day. 
Preparing Manure for Mushrooms—Site for Beds (IF. G .).— 
"When manure is prepared in large quantities, amounting to upwards of three or 
four cartloads, it may be prepared quite as well in the open air, as if preparing 
it for an ordinary hotbed, as in a shed; but with small quantities a covered 
place is advantageous—indeed, often indispensable. The space under a bridge, 
boarded-up at each end, would be very suitable for growing Mushrooms ; and 
if room could be found for a heap of fermenting materials in preparation for suc- 
cessional beds, the heat thus imparted would be sufficient, and the atmosphere 
would be in the best condition for the crops. Heat thus afforded would be far 
better than that provided by any apparatus. 
Gladioluses Growing Prematurely (IF. N .).—As thecorms have pro¬ 
duced roots from 1 to 2 inches in length, and top growth is commencing, they 
had better be potted, as if they remain where they are they will spoil, and re¬ 
moved to a dry room the roots will shrivel. As y'ou have no frame or green¬ 
house the pots had better be stood on a hard base, or on ashes, impervious to 
worms, in the open air or in a very' cool cellar, and cover them 3 or 4 inches 
thick with cocoa-nut fibre refuse. The growth will then be slow and sturdy, and 
in March, or when the weather is favourable, the plants can be turned out of 
the pots and planted carefully in the garden. The soil, if moderately moist, as 
it should be when used, no water will be needed until the pots are withdrawn 
from the fibre. This material is very cheap and useful in gardens. Pots 3 to 
4 inches in diameter will do, according to the size of the corms. 
Specimen Chrysanthemums (T. M., Ch shire).— The cuttings are best 
inserted singly in small pots, which may be done now, or when sturdy cuttings 
can be had. After they are well rooted repot them into 48-size pots, but do not 
stop them until they are 6 inches high. Be very careful when you stop them 
only to just take the smallest point out, so as to get as many shoots as possible. 
If stopped roughly, pieces about an inch in length being removed, only a few 
shoots will be produced, and consequently time lost. Place a small stick to 
each plant to keep the main stem erect. After the shoots have grown about 
4 inches take the points out again. Place a piece of twine under the rim of the 
pot to tie the shoots down to. Be careful in tying that they do not break away 
from the main stem, as they are apt to do if not prevented by placing a tie 
round the base of each shoot to the main stem or stick. It is of importance that 
the plants be kept in a free-growing state always. Repot as required, and apply 
water carefully yet sufficiently. A 12-inch pot will grow a large specimen. A 3 
the shoots from each stopping attain a length of about 6 inches take the points 
out and keep the shoots well down in the early stages of the plant’s growth, 
when the after-training will not be difficult. The last stopping should be done 
about the end of June. Each plant should carry sixty good-sized flowers, con¬ 
sequently you will require sixty shoots. Remove all suckers as they appear till 
after the flowering period. Some societies are very particular in having a clear 
stem from the rim of the pot to the first tier of branches. After the plants 
have been disbudded and the blooms are commencing to expand finally tie them 
into the required shape. Some growers take those plants that have been grown 
on the single-stem system for large blooms, and cut them down to about 
