December 21, 1882.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 581 
12 inches. After they have broken well on the stem shake them out, and place 
them in small pots, and stop and repot as recommended for cuttings. The 
plants often come stronger under this system, but are apt to throw up suckers 
frequently, which should be removed. AVe shall shortly publish further notes on 
Chrysanthemum culture that will probably be useful to you. 
Pines Unhealthy (F. C .).—AVe thought we had never advised the liquid 
manure which you have given to the plants. AVeak guano water is very different 
from the decidedly strong applications that you have afforded. You have no 
doubt given it too strong by half, and also probably more often than it was 
needed, even if it had not been strong. So far as we understand the state of the 
plants, they have been overwatered, overfed, and, according to the temperatures 
you submit, underheated. If you refer to page 512, November 30th, you will 
find the proper temperatures advised for such plants as yours. The bottom 
heat is correct, but the top heat is at the least 5° too low for plants kept so 
moist as yours have apparently been. It is only when plants have been prepared 
by skilled cultivators that they can be kept healthy in a temperature of 55° and 
falling as low as 50°. Raise the temperature to 60°, and little water given once a 
fortnight or less frequently will suffice for the next two months, especially if 
the pots are plunged. Provided you can maintain the present temperature at 
the roots there is no necessity for introducing fresh leaves and the attendant 
slugs. The small work we advised would be of great service to you in your 
efforts at Pine culture. No one without seeing your plants can tell whether 
they are likely to fruit or not in the spring. They probably will not, and if they 
do the fruits will be small. If the Passiflora cuttings are in a pot remove it to 
the greenhouse ; if in the open ground, cover them with a handlight and protect 
from severe frost. 
Autumn and Winter-flowering Heaths (R. L. B .).—Three of the 
most useful Heaths for your purpose are E. hyemalis, E. gracilis autumnalis, 
and E. melanthera, which are quick¬ 
growing’, easily increased plants, 
and flower most abundantly. Their 
value is indicated by the fact that 
many thousands of these Heaths are 
now sent to Covent Garden Market, 
as there is a good demand for plants 
of moderate size in 48-size pots. Of 
the dwarf compact E. gracilis 
autumnalis numbers of plants are 
grown in 60-size pots, and prove 
valuable for decoration as a margin 
to groups or in the front rows of 
stages. A small spray of this plant 
is shown in the woodcut (fig. 98), the 
flowers being rosy purple. E. hyemalis 
has longer crimson flowers thickly 
clothing the branches ; and E. melan¬ 
thera has small bell-shaped flowers 
produced in great numbers of a lilac 
colour with black prominent anthers. 
All of these maybe treated similarly, 
a compost of light fibrous turf and 
peat with sufficient sand to insure 
good drainage. 
Planting and Pruning Apple 
Trees (IF. Hawley) _Under the cir¬ 
cumstances we do not perceive that 
you could have adopted a better 
method of planting than the one you 
describe, and by mulching you may 
keep a number of roots near the sur¬ 
face. Long manure is suitable during 
the winter, but in summer short 
manure placed over a sprinkling of 
bone dust or wood ashes will be more 
effectual in inciting root-action and 
affording food for the trees. Digging 
incautiously amongst fruit trees and 
permitting the surface of the soil to 
become dry in summer is certain to 
result in the roots penetrating down¬ 
wards in search of moisture. In 
Pig. 98. mulching it is important, in summer 
especially, that the material be spread 
at the least 6 inches, and a foot is better, beyond the extremities of the roots, 
otherwise they will inevitably turn downwards when they leach the dry radius, 
and cannot be brought near the surface again without manipulative aid. Even 
with all the care you maj’’ take in mulching it may be necessary, and will pro¬ 
bably be advisable, to lift the trees, say about every third year, and place their 
roots near the surface, but this can only be determined by the condition of the 
trees. It is not easy to give definite advice on pruning, but we do not hesitate 
saying that as much harm as good is done by the use of the knife. Skilled 
cultivators can and do prune to good effect, but the unskilled prevent the pro¬ 
duction of fruit in their efforts to produce it. It is better not to prune at all than 
to do the work as it is too often done by those who own, or are placed in charge 
of, fruit trees. If your primary object is to produce fruit, and not to train the 
trees to any particular form, and keep them to a certain small size, we should 
pruue but slightly, only removing any misplaced branches and to prevent over¬ 
crowding, at the same time shortening the ends of any shoot here and there 
that marred the symmetry of the trees. This may be done at any time wheu 
the weather is mild. 
Sowing Fern Spores (F.R .).—The spore-bearing fronds should be care¬ 
fully examined, and as soon as they appear to be approaching maturity—that is 
when the spore cases become brown, and before the spores are liberated, the 
fronds should be cut and placed upon a sheet of paper in a dry position, each 
species or variety separately, and the spore side downwards. It is, however, 
often preferable to place the frond upon the surface of the soil in the pot 
intended for the spores. The soil previously to being placed in the pans should 
be well baked or exposed to the action of fire sufficiently to consume all organic 
substances it may contain, also to destroy the spores of common strong-growing 
Ferns, which often overpower and either greatly injure or kill the weaker sorts. 
This process also serves to destroy any fungi that may be present, and which 
would otherwise prove injurious to the Ferns. The pots must be liberally 
drained, placing a large crock hollow side downwards at the bottom, then half 
fill with rough potsherds, covering these with a layer of smaller pieces, and on 
these may be placed the soil, rendering the surface firm and smooth. Water it 
sufficiently to thoroughly soak it, and allow it to stand for a day or so before 
sowing the spores, which may be done as already stated, either by placing the 
fronds on the soil or by gently shaking the papers on which they have been 
lying over it. Each pot should then be covered with a piece of glass and placed 
in a pan containing about an inch depth of water, which will rise through the 
soil by capillary attraction, and keep it sufficiently moist, as watering on the 
surface must be avoided until the young Ferns appear. These directions must 
be carefully followed for all the delicate species and varieties ; but there are 
some, such as the common Pterises, Adiantums, and Gymnogrammas, which 
require very little trouble, and germinate most readily. Spores of stove and 
greenhouse Ferns should be sown in a temperature of GO 6 to 65° ; the hardy sorts 
can be sown in a frame or any cool house. There is great difference in the 
time required for the germination of Ferns : some species appear in a week or 
two, while others are several months, and instances have been recorded where 
Ferns have remained in the prothallus state for several years before fronds have 
been produced. You are probably aware that the prothallus is the small green 
cellular expansion which first appears after the germination of the Fern ; and in 
the case of strong-growing species, if they are too crowded a few may be care¬ 
fully removed with some of the soil attached, and placed in a large pan, as the 
space thus afforded often ensures a more rapid advance in those moved, and 
also in the others. 
Raising Oranges from Seed—Grafting (Idem).— Oranges can be 
readily raised from seed, but you cannot insure obtaining plants that will 
resemble the parent variety, as, like so many other plants, they vary greatly 
from seed, and too frequently revert to a coarser and worthless type. However, 
as you only have seeds, there is no other course open to you. Light sandy soil 
is the best to sow the seeds in, just covering them, and place the pots in a 
stove or other warm house until the seeds have germinated. AVhen several 
leaves are formed the young plants may be potted singly in small pots, and 
grown in a warm moist atmosphere, employing good turfy loam and a little 
well-decayed manure, similar treatment being needed as the plants advance. 
The difficult part is that you would have to wait several years before being able 
to judge the merits of the variety, as the Orange does not fruit in a very young 
state under cultivation. It is therefore usuall}’ preferred to obtain scions of 
small known variety, and graft these upon seedling stocks. This might be 
done in your case when the plants are two years old, and they may be either 
cleft or side-grafted, early spring being the best time for the operation. The 
stock and scion should be placed in a propagating house and shaded until they 
are united, when the plants may be removed to their old quarters, and heated 
as advised for the seedlings. 
Forcing Seakale (Marlon ).—Pots are convenient but not “absolutely 
necessary,” indeed in all probability far more Seakale is produced every year 
without the aid of pots than with them. A Seakale tub was shown in our 
columns a month ago, but even that appliance can be dispensed with. AVe 
have used open crates, and have seen fine Kale produced by inserting a few 
sticks slantingly round the crowns, bringing the points of the sticks together 
pyramid fashion, and covering with long litter previously to adding the fer¬ 
menting materials. 
Avocado Pear (J. Roberts) —Fruits of this plant may be occasionally seen 
in Covent Garden Market, but they are only introduced in small quantities and 
as a curiosity. The tree which produces them is Persea gratissima, specimens 
of which may be seen in the Palm house at Kew; but we are not aware that 
plants have produced fruit in this country. 
Names of Plants (Keswick). —The specimen you have sent is of Gnapha- 
lium germanicum, the common Cudweed, and may have been introduced in the 
manner you suggest. Grass and Clover seeds should be obtained from the best 
sources. There is nothing more costly than cheap seeds. (II. M .).—The spray 
bearing berries is Ruscus aculeatus, the Butcher’s Broom ; the other is Euphor¬ 
bia Lathyris, the Caper Spurge. ( Stephanotis).—l and 2, Adiautum Capillus- 
Yeneris ; 3, Asplenium cicutarium ; 4, Selaginella caulescens; 5, S. cuspidata ; 
6, S. Martensii. ( Bedland, Bristol). —1 and 2, Blechnum brasiliense ; 3, Nepbrolepis 
davallioides ; 4, Adiantum macrophyllum; 5, Rivina humilis ; 6, Eupatorium 
odoratum. (A. B., Surrey). —1, Bouvardia longiflora; 2, Bouvardia Hogarth; 
3, Eupatorium odoratum ; 4, Abutilon vexillarium; 5, Selaginella Kraussiana. 
(R. 0.). —1, Odontoglossum Alexandras ; 2, Cypripedium insigne ; 3, Cypripedium 
insigne Maulei. (X'.£,.). —1, Adiantum Luddemanianum ; 2, Blechnum corcova- 
dense ; 3, Salvia leucantha ; 4, Salvia splendens. 
COYENT GARDEN MARKET.— -DECEMBER 20tu. 
Our market has been well supplied with all classes of goeds, prices remaining 
the same ; and the extra demand for Christmas is well met by the supplies. 
FRUIT. 
s. d. 
s. d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples. 
i sieve 
2 OtoT 0 
Grapes . 
ft. 
0 to 5 
0 
„ .per barrel 20 0 
40 0 
Lemons. 
case 20 
0 
30 
0 
Apricots. 
doz. 
0 0 
0 0 
Melons . 
each 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Cherries. 
i siere 
o o 
0 0 
Nectarines. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Chestnuts. 
bushel 10 0 
li 0 
Oranges . 
100 
6 
0 
10 
0 
Currants, Black.. 
£ sieve 
0 0 
0 0 
Beaches . 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
„ Red.... 
l sieve 
0 0 
0 0 
Pears,kitchen .. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Figs. 
dozen 
0 6 
1 0 
dessert. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Filberts. 
lib. 
0 0 
0 0 
Pine Apples, English fb. 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Cobs. 
100 ft. 45 0 
50 0 
Raspberries. 
ft. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Gooseberries .... 
i sieve 
0 0 
0 0 
Strawberries .... 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
8 
VEGETABLES. 
8. d. 
s. d. 
8. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
2 0 tr> 4 O 
score 
1 
0 to 1 
G 
Asparagus. 
bundle 
0 0 
0 0 
Mushrooms . 
punnet 
A 
0 
i 
6 
Beans,Kidney.... 
100 
1 0 
0 0 
Mustard As Chess . 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
8 
1 0 
2 0 
bushel 
2 
3 
2 
(> 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
9 9 
1 8 
Parsley..doz. bunches 
8 
0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts.. 
£ sieve 
1 6 
2 0 
Parsnips. 
dozen 
i 
0 
2 
0 
dozen 
0 ft 
1 0 
Pea a . 
quart 
0 
0 
e 
0 
100 
1 ft 
2 0 
6 
0 
7 
0 
Carrots . 
bunoh 
0 4 
0 0 
Kidnev. 
cwt. 
6 
0 
8 
0 
Cauliflowers. 
dozen 
2 0 
3 0 
Radishes_ doz. bunches 
i 
0 
0 
0 
Celery . 
bundle 
1 6 
2 0 
Rhubarb. 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 0 
4 0 
Salsafy. 
bundle 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Cucumbers. 
each 
0 6 
1 0 
Seorzo’nera . 
bQfndle 
1 
6 
0 
8 
Endive. 
1 0 
2 0 
basket 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Fennel. 
bunch 
o s 
0 0 
Shallots. 
ft. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Garlic . 
tt>. 
0 6 
0 0 
Spinach . 
bushel 
3 
0 
0 
0 
Herbs . 
buneh 
0 2 
0 0 
Tomatoes . 
ft. 
0 
8 
i 
0 
Leeks. 
bunch 
0 3 
0 4 
Turnips . 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
0 
