July 1, 1880. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
15 
is known by the French as herbaceous grafting is worthy of notice 
at this the proper time for adopting it successfully. The annexed 
small sketch shows how the process is carried out. A branch is 
destitute of a shoot, therefore a growth (d) is taken upright from 
below the vacancy, inarched (c), and grows in the direction B, 
and the want is supplied. The work of effecting the union of a 
growing shoot with a healthy stem is very simple. Make a slit 
about H inch long precisely as in ordinary budding, but with a 
transverse cut both above and below the longitudinal slit; raise 
the bark ; take a thin slice from the young shoot or scion, then 
place the prepared growth under the bark of older wood ; secure 
with matting, and shortly a union will be efEected ; and in due 
time, some months afterwards, the new branch may be first cut 
half through and then severed entirely just below the point indi¬ 
cated by the ligature. This inarching may be done from the 
present time onwards to September as the growths attain the 
desired length and firmness.—J. 
WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
It is customary in many gardens to leave a breadth of the early 
Cabbage stumps to afford a supply of young heads in autumn. If 
a reservation has not been already made, it should be attended to 
without delay. Plant-out Leeks in trenches prepared as for Celery. 
French Beans may yet be sown in a warm situation. Make a sowing 
of Endive, deferring sowing for the main crop until the middle 
of next month. Sow Lettuce for succession, choosing the Cos 
varieties as being less disposed to be flabby in dry weather than the 
Cabbage sorts. Parsley previously sown should be thinned-out to 
about a foot distance apart, and some of the plants should be care¬ 
fully lifted and planted in single rows in sheltered sunny positions 
near the base of walls, where protection can easily be afforded in 
severe weather. As the ground becomes vacant plant-out Broccolis, 
Cauliflowers, Cabbage for autumn use, Brussels Sprouts and winter 
vegetables generally, reserving a good breadth for Rosette Coleworts 
and winter Spinach, which succeed well after Potatoes or Peas, also 
the Tripoli section of Onions, which may follow Cabbage or Cauli¬ 
flower. Small sowings of Turnips at intervals will for the present 
suffice. Shallots as soon as they indicate ripeness should be taken 
up, dried, and stored in bunches or otherwise. Attend to training 
Tomatoes as they advance in growth, removing all the side shoots 
when the requisite number of fruiting shoots are obtained. Train 
and peg-out the growths of ridge Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows 
as needed. The surface soil should be frequently stirred in suitable 
weather, and every endeavour be made to accelerate the growth of 
the crops and retard the weeds, hand-weeding in moist weather being 
more effectual than frequent hoeing and raking. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
It is of the greatest importance to keep fruit trees free from 
insects, whether the trees are trained to walls or otherwise, and during 
such a season as the present this is by no means an easy task. The 
removal of the foreright or unnecessary shoots, or stopping them, 
will in many instances be a means of destroying the aphides, and 
the shoots so removed and infested should at once be collected and 
burned. Black aphides on Morello and other Cherry trees are difficult 
to dispose of, as tobacco water or other destroying agents do not 
have the least effect unless the insects are disturbed, as they may by 
gently rubbing the infested leaves, &c., with the fingers, tobacco 
water or the insecticide being employed, following when the trees 
become dry with a forcible syringing so as to dislodge the insects. 
The shoots of wall trees should be secured by nailing or tying as 
they advance in growth, allowing space for the shoots to swell. 
Attend to stopping and regulating the growth of bush and pyramidal 
Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry trees. Caterpillars are abundant, 
for which careful hand-picking is an effectual remedy, and Fir- 
tree oil, nicotine soap, and fresh-ground hellebore powder will 
destroy them if effectively applied ; and the two first are equally 
effective against aphides, which are unusually prevalent on Goose¬ 
berry and Currant bushes. Cutting the shoots back and burning 
them will destroy many insects, and will better admit of the appli¬ 
cation of an insecticide. Raspberries with other small fruit are 
abundant and must not lack moisture, therefore if the soil be dry 
apply water copiously and mulch with manure. Strawberries must 
receive abundance cf water in dry weather, and the fruit must be 
carefully protected with nets. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Fines.—Hasten the thinning of late Grapes ; those that have to 
hang over the winter will require rather more thinning than these 
not required to keep past November, otherwise they will not keep 
well when a close damp atmosphere has to be contended with. 
Check all gross laterals, not allowing them to grow until they crowd 
the principal foliage, then removing them in such a quantity as to 
cause a check to the roots, which not infrequently results in shanking 
of the berries. Remove surplus bunches freely, or if the crop be heavy 
the Grapes will not be thoroughly ripened. It is false economy to 
extinguish the fires at this season unless the weather be unusually 
warm, as gentle fires to maintain a night temperature of 60° to G5° 
and 70° to 75° will ensure steady progress, and allow of the Grapes 
ripening in August and early September when there is more sun 
and light, and they will keep very much better than those that 
have to be ripened in September and October by sharp firing and at 
greater cost. Vine borders that are high and dry do not generally 
receive sufficient water when the Vines are in active growth, as they 
can hardly have too much if the drainage be efficient from the time 
the Grapes commence swelling until they are well advanced in 
colouring. Ventilate freely houses containing Muscats that are 
ripening, also maintaining a good temperature ; even Hamburghs 
when ripening should have a free circulation of rather dry warm air 
as Grapes ripened in a low temperature are generally poor in flavour 
and do not keep well. A brisk heat for heavily cropped Vines 
ripening their fruit would be injurious, more time being required 
under such circumstances, and rest should be given by allowing the 
temperature to fall to G0° at night. Houses in which the Grapes 
are ripe should be kept cool and well ventilated. Vines from which 
the Grapes have been cut should be syringed every evening to 
preserve the old foliage as long as possible, and air should be 
admitted freely night and day. Young Vines will require syringing 
in the afternoon of bright days, closing the house early with a moist 
atmosphere to secure free growth, encouraging surface-rooting by 
frequently supplying tepid water. 
Figs .—The first crop will now be gathered, and the trees will 
require generous treatment, affording liquid manure to the roots, 
especially such as are in pots or borders of limited extent. As the 
crop is likely to be large thin freely before the fruits are as large as 
walnuts, reserving those nearest the base of the shoots. Syringe 
twice a day to keep red spider in check. Tie-in the growths to the 
trellis as they advance, stopping such as are not required, and regu¬ 
late them to ensure exposure to light and air. In houses where 
crops are ripening, constantly maintain a circulation of dry warm 
air to ensure the Figs ripening perfectly. Trees in pots intended 
for early fruiting next season must not now be neglected; syringe 
them overhead at least twice a day, and supply them with liquid 
