16 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
manure composed of a handful of guano to three gallons of water. 
When the trees have fully matured their growths in the forcing 
house they may be placed outdoors in some sunny corner to harden, 
but it is well not to do so too early, or not at all unless the growth 
is well matured. 
Melons. —As the houses become cleared of their crops remove the 
old plants, and make preparations for a fresh start. The soil should 
be removed entirely ; and where bottom heat is solely supplied by 
fermenting material a portion should be taken out and some hot 
dung worked in, so as to revive the bottom heat. Similar remarks 
apply to pits and frames. Plant on mounds or ridges rendered firm, 
and maintain a moist genial atmosphere. Pot off seedling plants, 
and keep them near the glass to secure sturdiness of habit. Con¬ 
tinue fertilising the blossoms of plants that are flowering, and during 
dull weather ventilate at night, as moisture from condensation during 
that time will settle on the blossom and be fatal to setting. Directly 
the fruit is set and swelling earth-up the roots, and keep the 
laterals closely pinched, thinning out the growths where too crowded. 
Syringe evei\y afternoon early, maintaining a good moisture by fre¬ 
quent damping, and afford liquid manure to plants with swelling fruit. 
Close early with a good sun heat. Ventilate at above 75°. Shade only 
to prevent flagging, paying particular attention to this in bright 
weather following a dull period. Watch for canker at the collar, 
and if it appear rub the affected parts with quicklime at once, as 
when it becomes established it does great mischief in a short time. 
If the fruits commence cracking reduce the supply of moisture both 
at the roots and in the atmosphere, and cut the stem half or three 
parts through below the fruit, and admit air freely, especially at night. 
Cucumbers. —The present is a good time to sow a few seeds for late 
summer and autumn fruiting, about three to four weeks being re¬ 
quired to secure sturdy plants. Make the necessary preparations by 
collecting the fermenting material and soil, and thoroughly cleansing 
the house. Although no fire heat is now required a gentle bottom 
heat in the case of new beds is desirable. Test the heat of the beds 
before planting, and do not plant until the heat has reached its maxi¬ 
mum and is on the wane, it not being safe above 90°. Afford liquid 
manure copiously twice a week, maintaining plenty of atmospheric 
moisture in hot weather. Fumigate against aphides and thrips occa¬ 
sionally, and employ the knife freely. Train, stop, and thin-out the 
old growths and foliage in pits and frames, earthing-up the roots, 
removing the lights for a few hours on showery afternoons. Sprinkle 
the plants overhead at 4 P.M., closing the lights at that time. Ven¬ 
tilate early in the day, and shade only to prevent flagging. 
TRADE CATALOGUE RECEIVED. 
Samuelson & Co., Banbury.— Illustrated General Catalogue of Agri¬ 
cultural and Horticultural Implements. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to The Editors ” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that 
no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, as doing 
so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Fuchsias not Thriving (E. H. 0.). —Treat the plants as advised in 
“ Work for the Week,” cutting back the shoots moderately, and your plants will 
flower finely again over a lengthened period. 
Primroses ( Mrs. Daubeny). —If you send a reminder to “ Philanthos ” 
a month hence, when the seed will be ripe, and enclose two stamps, your wish 
will be complied with. 
List of Market Prices (R. Sutcliffe). —When the list you refer to is not 
published you may take it that the prices remain as before. Your request shall 
have our attention. 
Zygopetalum Mackayi and Cattleya labiata Unhealthy (An 
Orchid Lover'). — The spots on the Zygopetalum leaves are due to excessive 
moisture, especially at night. Allow the leaves to become dry before night, and 
admit air more freely. The Cattleya probably requires more moisture, or the 
buds may have been destroyed. Place it in a warmer temperature. 
American Blight on Apple Trees (.1. Z.).— If you dip a small brush 
in paraffin and touch the affected parts, not applying the oil to the smooth por¬ 
tions of the bark, nor in such quantity as to run down the branches, you will 
destroy the insects and not injure the trees. 
Market Garden Crops (Z. }'.).—The landlord is undoubtedly entitled to 
a valuation for the crops upon the ground when you take the lease, unless there 
is some special stipulation to the contrary. That is, presuming you take the 
lease immediately of the landlord and not of a previous tenant. 
Propagating Ericas (4. B.). —If you have been careful in selecting 
vigorous half-matured cuttings, they will soon produce roots under the treatment 
you mention. Especial attention to watering is needed, as they are very liable 
to “damp off” even when rooted. Wipe the condensed moisture off the inside 
of the bellglasses daily, and remove them as soon the young plants are making 
growth. 
Growing the Cape Gooseberry in Pot3 (Subscriber).— It will succeed 
admirably in a pot, being shifted on as it requires more root room, or it may be 
kept in a pot of about 10 inches in diameter, supplying liquid manure freely 
after the roots have filled the pot. The shoots may be stopped to induce a 
branching habit. The plant must be trained to a trellis or wall, and have plenty 
of light and air. 
Stopping Young Vines (Idem).— Stop the leading stem at the top of the 
house, allowing the laterals to extend as far as space will admit, but not allow¬ 
ing them to crowd the principal foliage. 
Grafting Vines (Querist). —Both the varieties you name will succeed on the 
Black Hamburgh stock, but we prefer the Muscat of Alexandria on its own 
roots. This fine Grape also, owing to its free root-action, forms a valuable stock 
for other varieties. The other white Grape to which you refer is good in some 
soils and districts, but not in all. You might try a Vine of it, and if it answers 
your expectations you could quickly increase it by inarching or grafting. 
Thrips on Cucumbers (Viper). —Fumigating, not strongly but frequently, 
will destroy thrips ; but if the plants are much infested you had better first 
syringe them with a solution of soft soap, Gisliurst compound, or some other 
insecticide. A safe strength is 2 ozs. of soft soap to a gallon of water, adding a 
quarter of a pint of tobacco liquor, and applying at a temperature of 100° to 120°. 
Fumigation should be done on two consecutive nights at intervals of ten days. 
Melons “ Bursting ” (Ebor). —It is a result of excessive vigour, but it not 
infrequently arises from a too moist and close atmosphere. The best remedy is 
to cut the stem about half way through below the fruit to check the flow of sap, 
and supply water at the roots only to prevent flagging, keeping a dry atmo¬ 
sphere by a free circulation of air at night as well as day. 
Flowering Plants for a Room (Sussex). —The most suitable plants for 
flowering during the winter and spring would be such bulbs as Hyacinths, 
Narcissuses, Jonquils, Snowdrops, <fcc., and of miscellaneous plants Pelargoniums, 
Fuchsias, Cinerarias, and Calceolarias with many others. Annuals are not 
generally suited for windows. You will find full particulars upon this subject 
in “Window Gardening for the Many,” published at this office, price 9 d., or post 
free for ten penny stamps. 
Storing Bulbs (Saxoring). —If such bulbs as Hyacinths and Tulips are not 
removed from the beds until the foliage is considerably withered all that is 
required is to spread the bulbs on mats and dry them gradually, and then store 
them on shelves in a dry cool room until they are required for planting. If the 
plants have to be removed before the foliage is quite yellow, but yet changing, 
they may be laid in rows in xrenches on a border for a few weeks, the roots being 
well covered with soil, and then dried and stored as indicated. Such bulbs as 
Crocuses and Snowdrops are often best left in the ground, and if they are near 
the margin of beds they do not interfere with the summer flowers. Generally 
speaking, flowering bulbs require the same care in drying and storing as Onions. 
Mildew on Vines (G. W. B.). —The leaves sent are infested with mildew, 
and you cannot adopt a better or safer plan for destroying it than dusting 
every speck with sulphur. It usually adheres the best when applied very early in 
the morning before the ventilators are opened, as the foliage is then slightly moist. 
If this is not so you may syringe lightly, and shortly afterwards apply the 
sulphur, dusting it through a muslin bag. Some cultivators mix sulphur in 
water and apply with a syringe. The Strawberry resembles Sir Joseph Paxton, 
but it is difficult to determine the name without seeing a growing plant. 
The Celery Fly (R. T.). — This insect is the Tephritis onopordium of 
entomologists; it is the larv® which burrow in the substance of the leaf, and 
when fully grown pass from the plant to the ground, where they undergo the 
usual pupal changes, the result being the production of a small winged fly-like 
creature that is in its perfect state during early summer. The grubs are found 
in the leaves from June till October, as several distinct successional broods are 
produced. As your plants are now left unmolested you may conclude that the 
larvae have passed to the ground, but it is by no means certain that the plants 
will not be again attacked by later broods. Pressing the leaves between the 
thumb and finger is the only means of destroying the grubs. 
Pelargoniums for Winter (Novice). —We presume your plants are of 
the Zonal type ; if so, and they are free-flowering varieties, you will have no diffi¬ 
culty in flowering them from November onwards, provided you have a light 
house and can maintain a temperature of from 45° to 50° during the period 
you name. Presuming you have young plants, which are the best for the 
purpose, they should be placed in clean well-drained pots, employing a compost 
of rather heavy turfy loam and about one-fourth of decayed manure, pottingj 
rather firmly. They should be placed in a well-ventilated frame for a time unti 
they are established in the new soil, when they may be partly plunged in ashes 
in an open situation outdoors to promote sturdy growth. The shoots may be 
stopped once or twice, and the flower buds should be removed during the 
summer. Water them carefully yet sufficiently, as it is important to keep the 
root-action vigorous, but lessen the supply somewhat in September, and place 
the plants under glass before heavy autumn rains occur. If you plant them out 
you will fail in your object. Amongst the varieties for this purpose few are 
more useful than the old scarlet Vesuvius and its white and salmon varieties. 
Stephanotis Culture (S. C.).— It is a stove plant, but succeeds in an 
intermediate house, and even in a greenhouse during the summer if the air is 
not too dry. It requires copious supplies of water during the period of growth, 
and frequent syringings to keep it free from insects. If you withhold water 
gradually in September you may possibly preserve it through the winter in the 
warmest part of your greenhouse, but the pot should be pretty-well filled with 
roots at that time, and the soil must not be kept too moist, neither extremely 
dry. 
Culture of Statice profusa (Young Gardener). —The specimen you 
sent was a portion of this beautiful greenhouse plant, which when well grown 
is one of the most useful for decoration in the conservatory, the flowers being so 
